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Posted: 7/21/2015 9:53:25 PM EDT
[#1]
All maintenance will be the same . The extra 5 hp will come in on the 54 and 60 in mower decks plus what ever three point equipment you may get in the future.
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Posted: 7/21/2015 10:25:12 PM EDT
[#2]
Have a BX 2230 (I think a 2007 or 2008) and it has around 500 hours on it but it's a freaking champ. We have a plow, mower, box grader, and front loader/backhoe for it and it's been run pretty hard. Never had any issues other than a cracked filter mount. Once you get the hang of it you can have the front loader & backhoe off and the mower deck on in less than 10 minutes.
We looked at JD's too but I think our local dealer had them priced way too high, so really no experience with them. But I'm happy we chose Kubota. 
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Posted: 7/21/2015 10:51:13 PM EDT
[#3]
YES, the extra 5 hp makes a huge difference when using 3pt equipment like a tiller or a cutter.
I struggle to remember all of the comparisons I've seen on the two models you mention, but a couple stick out still. Lots of plastic on the dear where Kubota uses metal. The three point arms on the Kubota are more substantial, and it seems there was more foot room on the Kubota. |
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Posted: 7/22/2015 9:43:52 AM EDT
[#5]
I have a JD 2305 I love it but it did have electrical issues this spring I think it was due to mice though.
I have a FEL, Tiller, Belly Mower, and rear blade. I use all of them and love it. I manage 8.5 acres wish I would have gone bigger but this was already more than I could afford and I went used. The deere does have lots of plastic on it and I hate the position of lots of the controls. The pto selector is in a horrible spot. Mine is a 2008. 
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Posted: 7/22/2015 10:52:34 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
YES, the extra 5 hp makes a huge difference when using 3pt equipment like a tiller or a cutter. I struggle to remember all of the comparisons I've seen on the two models you mention, but a couple stick out still. Lots of plastic on the dear where Kubota uses metal. The three point arms on the Kubota are more substantial, and it seems there was more foot room on the Kubota. ^^^ listen to this man, he knows what he is talking about. ar-jedi |
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Posted: 7/22/2015 1:00:22 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a JD 2305 I love it but it did have electrical issues this spring I think it was due to mice though. I have a FEL, Tiller, Belly Mower, and rear blade. I use all of them and love it. I manage 8.5 acres wish I would have gone bigger but this was already more than I could afford and I went used. The deere does have lots of plastic on it and I hate the position of lots of the controls. The pto selector is in a horrible spot. Mine is a 2008. http://i57.tinypic.com/30su1w4.jpg Those are nice little tractors but the PTO is the weak link on them and expensive to fix. |
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Posted: 7/22/2015 1:36:47 PM EDT
[#9]
One of my best friends has a BX23 and loves it. I got to use it last summer and it was great for its size.
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Posted: 7/22/2015 4:20:34 PM EDT
[#10]
5hp is huge in that category. Also, the dealer is a huge variable when buying new. Ask around about the dealer's service department, a crappy service dept can make thinks miserable.
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Posted: 7/22/2015 5:03:42 PM EDT
[#11]
What's the major differences between the BX series subcompact and the L series larger Kubotas? I know the BX series has the mid-mount PTO but is there any other big differences? I'm surprised that there seems to be so many more people on here that seem to have the BX than a larger L.
And what are you guys using those backhoe attachments for? It would be cool as hell to have a backhoe attachment but I can't see any realistic use I'd have for it. |
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Posted: 7/22/2015 5:05:57 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I purchased a Kubota B2650 (FEL, MMM, Box blade, 5ft Bushhog) about 3 months ago and absolutely love it. I maintain about 5 acres of pasture plus my yards and the little old lady's yard next door. It will run a 5 ft. bushhog just fine. After bushhogging the first time I've been able to keep everything cut using the 5ft belly mower (MMM). It puts a nice cut on the yards. Of course the FEL is the cat's meow. Unlimited uses. IMHO... Go as big as you can afford. I could've streched my budget for the 33hp but would've had to deal with diesel particulate filters and regen cycles. (Anything over 26hp now has to have the emissions controls on them.) <a href="http://s67.photobucket.com/user/oxfordethan/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3AF8613B-7B1F-4A18-9D87-C1D7EDD77E17.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h309/oxfordethan/Mobile%20Uploads/3AF8613B-7B1F-4A18-9D87-C1D7EDD77E17.jpg</a> <a href="http://s67.photobucket.com/user/oxfordethan/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E4354555-0E35-4767-84D1-E25932EA2360.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h309/oxfordethan/Mobile%20Uploads/E4354555-0E35-4767-84D1-E25932EA2360.jpg</a> I hate needless EPA crap as well, and I'd prefer not to have a DPF, but my L3901 has one and so far I have no complaints. I just let it auto re-gen and everything has been fine. I only have 22 hours on it though. |
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Posted: 7/22/2015 5:18:15 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
^^^ listen to this man, he knows what he is talking about. ar-jedi Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
YES, the extra 5 hp makes a huge difference when using 3pt equipment like a tiller or a cutter. I struggle to remember all of the comparisons I've seen on the two models you mention, but a couple stick out still. Lots of plastic on the dear where Kubota uses metal. The three point arms on the Kubota are more substantial, and it seems there was more foot room on the Kubota. ^^^ listen to this man, he knows what he is talking about. ar-jedi Why thank you sir! 
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Posted: 7/22/2015 5:28:37 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's the major differences between the BX series subcompact and the L series larger Kubotas? I know the BX series has the mid-mount PTO but is there any other big differences? I'm surprised that there seems to be so many more people on here that seem to have the BX than a larger L. the BX and the L are quite different in nature. BX = subcompact tractor (one might say "estate tractor") https://www.kubota.com/product/BXSeries.aspx B series = compact utility tractor https://www.kubota.com/product/BSeries.aspx L series = tractor https://www.kubota.com/product/lseries.aspx M series = large tractor https://www.kubota.com/product/MSeries.aspx the models are listed above in increasing order of power, weight, ground clearance, and cost. weight means a lot in a tractor, in a subcompact or even compact tractor you will run out of traction before you run out of power. assuming you are not cutting turfgrass with it, a heavier tractor will outwork a lighter tractor, even if the heavier tractor has slightly less power. if you are cutting turfgrass, then you either need a lighter tractor or you need a separate mowing machine (e.g. a ZTR). a heavy tractor with aggressive agricultural tires will tear the shit out of turfgrass, and compact the soil as well. ground clearance is another issue; if you are skidding logs out of wooded areas, or working in muddy fields, ground clearance is everything. i always tell people new to tractors, go look at/sit on a B series Kubota. does it feel too big or too small for what you will be doing with it? answer that question and then you can work from there. see http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_19/680616__ARCHIVED_THREAD____Best_tractor_for_around__10_000_.html&page=1#i11641305 ar-jedi 
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Posted: 7/22/2015 5:56:46 PM EDT
[#15]
I figure the linked threads will mention tractorbynet.com.
Do some reading and searching there. With this size tractor especially I recomend sitting on them and seeing what you think. Plastic vs. metal can sort of be an issue but some people blow it out of proportion in my book. I do like how well metal holds up to little stupid stuff. Just scratches the paint and a little black paint makes a kubota look like a leopard with orange spots over the years. But a big hit might dent the metal. Plastic won't rust but can scratch easy and if you have shattered plastic in the past I can see skipping plastic. I would pay attention to the repair costs on these tractors and some of that will be determined by your use and the transmission and what not. I think someone mentioned the pto on the john deere, always research some of this stuff specifically since some have issues. All that said, kubota is what I would get. |
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Posted: 7/22/2015 10:23:41 PM EDT
[#16]
Thanks for all the help and info. I think we're going to go with the Kubota. I also think I'm going to go with the 54" belly mower, to try to reduce scalping on the lawn. Our yard has a grade that falls away from the house, and i noticed when i used my neighbor's Deere with the 60", it stair-stepped it a bit.
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Posted: 7/26/2015 10:48:19 AM EDT
[#17]
If you don't mind, what sort of price are you paying for the Kubota?
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Posted: 7/26/2015 10:18:58 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for all the help and info. I think we're going to go with the Kubota. I also think I'm going to go with the 54" belly mower, to try to reduce scalping on the lawn. Our yard has a grade that falls away from the house, and i noticed when i used my neighbor's Deere with the 60", it stair-stepped it a bit. just a thought -- it's possible that the deck (aka "MMM" = mid mount mower) on the JD was not set up correctly. the anti-scalp wheels may have been positioned too high, and therefore the deck could drop into uneven turf. i tell you this because besides the obvious cutting speed advantage of the larger deck, the larger deck also makes it easier to get "under" shrubs and the like since it protrudes slight more from the side of the tractor. so, assuming that the added width fits through all of your gates (etc), the wider deck can actually save some time because you don't have to use a string trimmer. ar-jedi |
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Posted: 7/27/2015 12:11:25 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: just a thought -- it's possible that the deck (aka "MMM" = mid mount mower) on the JD was not set up correctly. the anti-scalp wheels may have been positioned too high, and therefore the deck could drop into uneven turf. i tell you this because besides the obvious cutting speed advantage of the larger deck, the larger deck also makes it easier to get "under" shrubs and the like since it protrudes slight more from the side of the tractor. so, assuming that the added width fits through all of your gates (etc), the wider deck can actually save some time because you don't have to use a string trimmer. ar-jedi Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Thanks for all the help and info. I think we're going to go with the Kubota. I also think I'm going to go with the 54" belly mower, to try to reduce scalping on the lawn. Our yard has a grade that falls away from the house, and i noticed when i used my neighbor's Deere with the 60", it stair-stepped it a bit. just a thought -- it's possible that the deck (aka "MMM" = mid mount mower) on the JD was not set up correctly. the anti-scalp wheels may have been positioned too high, and therefore the deck could drop into uneven turf. i tell you this because besides the obvious cutting speed advantage of the larger deck, the larger deck also makes it easier to get "under" shrubs and the like since it protrudes slight more from the side of the tractor. so, assuming that the added width fits through all of your gates (etc), the wider deck can actually save some time because you don't have to use a string trimmer. ar-jedi Wheels need to be set to the appropriate height and the blades need to be level. Takes a little time to get it perfect. |
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Posted: 7/28/2015 1:13:37 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wheels need to be set to the appropriate height and the blades need to be level. Takes a little time to get it perfect. as a Kubota owner, it pains me to say this... 
the inexpensive plastic John Deere gauge is the best tool available for setting the MMM (mid mount mower) deck up; with it and a relatively flat floor (e.g. a garage bay) you can make quick work of levelling the blades L-R and providing the necessary "toe down" of the blades F-R. http://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-AM130907/dp/B006RIL8WS ar-jedi |
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Posted: 7/29/2015 3:42:32 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
as a Kubota owner, it pains me to say this...
the inexpensive plastic John Deere gauge is the best tool available for setting the MMM (mid mount mower) deck up; with it and a relatively flat floor (e.g. a garage bay) you can make quick work of levelling the blades L-R and providing the necessary "toe down" of the blades F-R. http://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-AM130907/dp/B006RIL8WS ar-jedi Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Wheels need to be set to the appropriate height and the blades need to be level. Takes a little time to get it perfect. as a Kubota owner, it pains me to say this...
the inexpensive plastic John Deere gauge is the best tool available for setting the MMM (mid mount mower) deck up; with it and a relatively flat floor (e.g. a garage bay) you can make quick work of levelling the blades L-R and providing the necessary "toe down" of the blades F-R. http://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-AM130907/dp/B006RIL8WS ar-jedi Could i achieve the same results by cutting a 2x4 to say exactly 3", and using it as a 3" guide for my blades? Just simply adjust the deck until the setting is as 3", as are my blades just barely touching the 2x4? I value your opinion so i ask, i'm just not sure if this tool performs in a similar fashion. Ty |
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Posted: 7/29/2015 4:10:48 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Could i achieve the same results by cutting a 2x4 to say exactly 3", and using it as a 3" guide for my blades? Just simply adjust the deck until the setting is as 3", as are my blades just barely touching the 2x4? I value your opinion so i ask, i'm just not sure if this tool performs in a similar fashion. Ty in essence, yes your method will work perfectly. note that: 1) the front of the blade should be slightly lower (i.e., toe down) than the rear of the blade. you may want to "step" one end of your 2x4 gauge just a bit (start with 1/8" lower). turn the blade so it is aligned with the direction of tractor travel. the leading part of the blade should be toe-down about 1/8" compared to the trailing part of the blade. so slide the "short end" of your block to the front, and make a check. at the rear use the "long end" of your block. 2) this is a huge piece of stamped/welded steel we are talking about here; it is not a precision instrument. there may be 1/8" (or more) of out-of-plane among the three blades. the grass will never know this. 
3) every deck will have some variation front to back and left to right as the deck height is adjusted through it's operating range. this is normal. again, the deck and lifting mechanism were not designed by Leica, manufactured by Lockheed, and assembled in a NASA cleanroom; it was cut/stamped/welded/etc from cold rolled steel by some guys making $23 hour + benefits. so, as you go from 2.5" cut to 3.5" cut, you will notice that things skew, and therefore the best place to adjust it is right where you will typically be cutting with it. ar-jedi |
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Posted: 7/29/2015 7:14:21 PM EDT
[#23]
I use a Styrofoam coffee cup! Stick it under the left side and rub it along the blade, it leaves a mark. Then go to the right (discharge) side and you can see where the mark is in reference to where the right side blade is and make adjustments from that.
Industry standard is that a blades thickness or less difference cannot be seen. |
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Posted: 7/29/2015 8:02:58 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Styrofoam coffee cup! nobody likes an expert!
ar-jedi |
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Posted: 7/29/2015 9:35:37 PM EDT
[#25]
Well, took delivery of the new BX tractor today.
 And already broke it.  Haven't even taken a picture of it yet.
Took it into the pole barn, and figured out how to remove the FEL (the guy showed me but I forgot as soon as he left). Mowed the grass, cuts awesome. Nice and level, no stair-stepping at all. The yard hasn't looked that nice after being cut in years. Anyway, after I was done and cleaned it up, I put the loader back on, and thought I'd play around with it, digging into the garden. Scooped up a few loads of dirt, dumped them, just messing around seeing what works best with the bucket angle and such. Went to scoop another, dug it into the dirt, and when I went to pick it up, hydraulic fluid squirted out from one of the lines on the side of the loader arm. I already blew a line. I was able to get the loader unhooked and off, and let it set next to the garden. Hopefully this will be covered under warranty, unless they say I tried to pick up too much? I figured if I tried picking up too much, it just wouldn't do it. Checked all the fittings, they seem tight. So I'm happy and bummed at the same time. |
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Posted: 7/29/2015 10:24:45 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well, took delivery of the new BX tractor today. And already broke it. Haven't even taken a picture of it yet.Took it into the pole barn, and figured out how to remove the FEL (the guy showed me but I forgot as soon as he left). Mowed the grass, cuts awesome. Nice and level, no stair-stepping at all. The yard hasn't looked that nice after being cut in years. Anyway, after I was done and cleaned it up, I put the loader back on, and thought I'd play around with it, digging into the garden. Scooped up a few loads of dirt, dumped them, just messing around seeing what works best with the bucket angle and such. Went to scoop another, dug it into the dirt, and when I went to pick it up, hydraulic fluid squirted out from one of the lines on the side of the loader arm. I already blew a line. I was able to get the loader unhooked and off, and let it set next to the garden. Hopefully this will be covered under warranty, unless they say I tried to pick up too much? I figured if I tried picking up too much, it just wouldn't do it. Checked all the fittings, they seem tight. So I'm happy and bummed at the same time. "Front falls off when operated above capacity" would be a field day for injury lawyers. |
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Posted: 7/29/2015 10:26:32 PM EDT
[#27]
Not to mention Kubota won't like the "broke on day 1" review on their facebook page
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Posted: 7/29/2015 10:38:07 PM EDT
[#28]
No reason not to be covered under warranty. The loader valve has bypass that won't allow you to pick up a load heavy enough to bust a line. Something had to have been faulty about the line.
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Posted: 7/30/2015 12:02:56 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was able to get the loader unhooked and off, and let it set next to the garden. Hopefully this will be covered under warranty, unless they say I tried to pick up too much? I figured if I tried picking up too much, it just wouldn't do it. all hydrostatic tractors are equipped with a pressure relief valve which prevents you from overstressing the hydraulic system; you can't pick up more than the design capacity. you have a faulty hydraulic hose or fitting, it happens. ar-jedi |
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Posted: 7/30/2015 9:50:40 AM EDT
[#30]
Did it leak from a fitting or is there a leak in the hose? I'm wondering if a connection didn't get seated when you hooked the FEL back up. Either way Kubota should cover it. Congrats on your new rig.
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Posted: 7/30/2015 10:03:13 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: And what are you guys using those backhoe attachments for? It would be cool as hell to have a backhoe attachment but I can't see any realistic use I'd have for it. |
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Posted: 7/30/2015 12:57:09 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been using mine to dig a lot of tree stumps out. I've actually been using my backhoe more than my FEL! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
And what are you guys using those backhoe attachments for? It would be cool as hell to have a backhoe attachment but I can't see any realistic use I'd have for it. Ah, 10-4 |
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Posted: 7/31/2015 10:00:29 AM EDT
[#33]
Fixed! Ended up being a loose fitting. I had checked them, but the service tech tightened them just a bit more (I didn't want to strip one out). Thanks for all the help and website links. I'm going to have fun with this little guy!
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Posted: 7/31/2015 10:26:16 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Fixed! Ended up being a loose fitting. I had checked them, but the service tech tightened them just a bit more (I didn't want to strip one out). Thanks for all the help and website links. I'm going to have fun with this little guy!
http://<a href=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v725/NotMrWizard/Mobile%20Uploads/20150730_160811_zpshvfp5tep.jpg</a>" /> http://<a href=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v725/NotMrWizard/Mobile%20Uploads/20150730_160800_zpsxez3ykve.jpg</a>" /> very nice!!! a couple of tips: 1) check the front axle oil level after the first 10-20 hours of operation. the factory/dealer fill has a tendency to settle in. you can use SUDT or gear oil to top it off. 2) wear your seatbelt whenever you are using the FEL. the ROPS is designed to protect the operator compartment when you roll over. you have to stay in the compartment, though. the seat belt ensures this. 3) you need some sort of TPH (three point hitch) ballast when you are using the FEL for anything more than about a hundred pounds. you can use a ballast box or a heavy implement (box blade etc). 4) when you are going downhill with any sort of load in the FEL or on the TPH, make sure the tractor is in 4WD. 5) get or make a pair of axle stands for the MMM (mid mount mower) -- it makes storing and servicing the deck and the blades so much easier. see this thread 6) enjoy!!! ar-jedi |
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Posted: 7/31/2015 12:13:46 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
very nice!!! a couple of tips: 1) check the front axle oil level after the first 10-20 hours of operation. the factory/dealer fill has a tendency to settle in. you can use SUDT or gear oil to top it off. 2) wear your seatbelt whenever you are using the FEL. the ROPS is designed to protect the operator compartment when you roll over. you have to stay in the compartment, though. the seat belt ensures this. 3) you need some sort of TPH (three point hitch) ballast when you are using the FEL for anything more than about a hundred pounds. you can use a ballast box or a heavy implement (box blade etc). 4) when you are going downhill with any sort of load in the FEL or on the TPH, make sure the tractor is in 4WD. 5) get or make a pair of axle stands for the MMM (mid mount mower) -- it makes storing and servicing the deck and the blades so much easier. see this thread 6) enjoy!!! ar-jedi Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Fixed! Ended up being a loose fitting. I had checked them, but the service tech tightened them just a bit more (I didn't want to strip one out). Thanks for all the help and website links. I'm going to have fun with this little guy!
very nice!!! a couple of tips: 1) check the front axle oil level after the first 10-20 hours of operation. the factory/dealer fill has a tendency to settle in. you can use SUDT or gear oil to top it off. 2) wear your seatbelt whenever you are using the FEL. the ROPS is designed to protect the operator compartment when you roll over. you have to stay in the compartment, though. the seat belt ensures this. 3) you need some sort of TPH (three point hitch) ballast when you are using the FEL for anything more than about a hundred pounds. you can use a ballast box or a heavy implement (box blade etc). 4) when you are going downhill with any sort of load in the FEL or on the TPH, make sure the tractor is in 4WD. 5) get or make a pair of axle stands for the MMM (mid mount mower) -- it makes storing and servicing the deck and the blades so much easier. see this thread 6) enjoy!!! ar-jedi Awesome, thanks for the tips! Is a ballast box still necessary if the tires are filled? |
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Posted: 7/31/2015 12:48:57 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Awesome, thanks for the tips! Is a ballast box still necessary if the tires are filled? "it depends". carrying around a bale of hay/straw or perhaps a load of mulch? yes, just the filled tires will be OK. carrying around a bucketful of 3/4" stone? you will need ballast or you are going to stress the front axle, and handling while going downhill will be "interestingly unpredictable".(*) (*) by the way, if you ever do stand the tractor on it's front wheels with a load in the FEL remember DO NOT LET GO OF THE STEERING WHEEL or the tractor will be on it's side in 0.87 seconds. ps while we are at it, be sure to read this: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_19/672940__ARCHIVED_THREAD____Got_a_tractor_and_a_few_questions_.html&page=1#i11509914 and this: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_19/672940__ARCHIVED_THREAD____Got_a_tractor_and_a_few_questions_.html&page=1#i11510013 and you may be interested in the pics of my PTO generator setup here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/661411_Sandy____12_days_without_power__what_worked__what_didn_t____.html ar-jedi |
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Posted: 8/12/2015 9:00:36 PM EDT
[#37]
Get a Kubota. You wont regret it. I now have two Kubotas. BX2350 and a B35? not sure of the number, but 35HP. Had the 2350 for years. VERY RELIABLE! And that is not just me, I know others that these tractors just keep on working. I use mine in the winter for snowblowing too. Best advice is to get the loader. You may not think you need it, but after having a loader you will never know how you got along without one. So many uses, and Kubota loaders are designed with multi-function features in mind. Like a rolled top edge where you can hook a line with an S-hook on it. Then you can rope-lift generators, etc.
Good luck. |
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Posted: 8/15/2015 10:16:17 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Awesome, thanks for the tips! Is a ballast box still necessary if the tires are filled? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Fixed! Ended up being a loose fitting. I had checked them, but the service tech tightened them just a bit more (I didn't want to strip one out). Thanks for all the help and website links. I'm going to have fun with this little guy!
very nice!!! a couple of tips: 1) check the front axle oil level after the first 10-20 hours of operation. the factory/dealer fill has a tendency to settle in. you can use SUDT or gear oil to top it off. 2) wear your seatbelt whenever you are using the FEL. the ROPS is designed to protect the operator compartment when you roll over. you have to stay in the compartment, though. the seat belt ensures this. 3) you need some sort of TPH (three point hitch) ballast when you are using the FEL for anything more than about a hundred pounds. you can use a ballast box or a heavy implement (box blade etc). 4) when you are going downhill with any sort of load in the FEL or on the TPH, make sure the tractor is in 4WD. 5) get or make a pair of axle stands for the MMM (mid mount mower) -- it makes storing and servicing the deck and the blades so much easier. see this thread 6) enjoy!!! ar-jedi Awesome, thanks for the tips! Is a ballast box still necessary if the tires are filled? I would say a definite Yes. The purpose of the ballast box is simple: Keep the rear wheels on the ground. If one of the rear wheels comes off the ground, the front axle will pivot and over you go. Bad news. Think of it this way: With no weight behind the rear axle (no ballast box) and you lift something with the FEL, where is the pivot point or fulcrum? On the front axle. Not only bad on the front axle bearings but also bad in potentially lifting the rear wheels. Now add a heavy ballast box to the 3PH and then lift something with the FEL. Where is the pivot point now? On the rear wheels, which is where you want it. Filled rear tires will make it harder for the FEL to lift the rear off the ground but will do nothing to move the pivot point off the front axle. Having a ballast box will also help with braking when the FEL is full since only the rear wheels have brakes and of course with rear wheel traction. And a ballast box can be a purpose built weight (e.g. barrel filled with concrete) or a heavy 3PH implement. I use my box blade with 520 lb weight block on it as my ballast box. I made a purpose built BB (55 gallon barrel filled with concrete) when I first got my tractor but haven't used it since I got my box blade. And I would still fill my rear tires. In fact, I've filled all four of my tires with a RV antifreeze/water mix plus added concrete wheel weights to the rears (about 250 lbs each). That's because I work on hills and need all the stability and traction I can get. I hope this helps! Good luck! Oh and one other thing: 
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Posted: 8/15/2015 11:34:27 AM EDT
[#39]
Good luck with the new tractor OP. I have a JD 1026R, but late to the game.
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Posted: 8/16/2015 1:40:25 PM EDT
[#40]
Just had a BX2670-1 delivered yesterday. FEL is going to be oh so useful. My 10 yo thinks it's his.
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