My BX23 sounds great, and drives fine too. There are things I like about the size; there are times where it's kind of nice that it's on the small side, but I do frequently wish it was one size larger, and not just for the range of the backhoe.

After the backhoe reach, I'd say the next biggest issue with a tractor that size, for me anyway, has been ground clearance. Since I've had the tractor a lot of what I've done with it has been digging trenches to drain wet areas. So naturally I've had it in the wet stuff a lot. I've been stuck quite a few times already, though using a combo of the FEL and the backhoe, I've been able to get myself unstuck every time without getting a pull.

Getting back to the reach thing, I try to do the same thing sometimes where rather than spin the seat around or get off the tractor, I just lift the stabilizers and reach back to the foot control by hand. The problem I have doing that is between bending back and applying downward pressure, I sometimes find it's hard to do while also keeping enough weight on the seat to keep the safety switch from turning the tractor off. I've also occasionally used the backhoe bucket to pull the tractor forward if I'm digging in line, but I generally prefer to just drive it where I want it.

Here's some pics from a french drain I put in last year:

This is on the dry end.


A little past the wettest areas. Although from here back I was essentially relocating the low point to avoid working in the really soft stuff to my right. You'll notice in the next pics that there's no pile of dirt along this part of the trench. That's because everything I took out I piled in the lower spot to the right and even tamped it down with the backhoe bucket.


This was a bad spot. I got stuck pretty bad when I got too far in trying to dig somewhat in line. Ended up digging from the side like this to keep out of the muck.


This is from the uphill end. I'm running the ditch down to the far side of the culvert under the driveway.




This was the next morning. I didn't finish opening it up to the creek the first day.


This was maybe weeks later. The dirt (mud) I piled on the uphill side of the trench in this area was too wet to do anything with in the beginning. I'd have just been asking to get stuck again. Here I was essentially just using the backhoe to drag the bulk of it up away from the drain, then I came in sideways with the FEL, scooped it up and hauled it somewhere else.


All cleaned up.

My kids had a little 'incident' with the side by side  Fortunately, they were wearing their seat belts and they didn't get hurt.




and for the rescue...

I had a BX1860 and 25-D, both ran out of traction long before they ever ran out of power.  The backhoe can only move one direction at a time due to the flow rate so it is slow but very strong for it's size.  A quality small tractor will do anything a big tractor will, it just takes longer to do it.  I had the BX and MX for quite a while and never really used the BX so sold it...I regret that though  The only issue I ever had with the small tractor was turf tires, they don't handle the loader well but never had an issue with the R4s.

Good on you for giving them an environment where they can push the limits and learn the limitations first hand

That made a nice looking ditch.  How many hours total would say that area took to dig out, fill in, and clean up?  What is the reach on that backhoe arm?  Compared to what was on the Terramite it looks a bit shorter.

Kind of hard to say how long it took. I spent more than a full weekend on it, but that included cutting the brush back some and some other site prep. The fact that I was digging in a wet area slowed me down a lot too. I got stuck bad once, probably spent 30-45 minutes trying to get out at least. Digging from the side in the muddy areas slows things down a lot, especially if you're trying to make a reasonably clean and smooth ditch. Relocating the low point took a long time too, because I was tamping down the dirt/mud I was discarding with the backhoe bucket. I also had a couple of planning fails on my part that slowed me down, but in the end I got through alright. Maybe the biggest one was the weekend I was going to do this, I was anxious to get started and began digging part of it Friday night. The next day I realized I was better off starting in a different place. So when I reached the point that I started with on Friday, I ran into some difficulty getting into positions where I could cleanly make the two trenches meet.

It's not a real fast machine, but if it was too fast that would almost take the fun out of it for a home owner.

I also used the FEL to move limestone from the pile to the ditch. That job was a genuine joy.

I wouldn't be surprised if the BX23 backhoe is a little shorter than the Terramite. Don't know what model you had, but a local hardware store here has a Terramite for rent, and it looks like it would have a longer reach. I think mine is supposed to be able to dig 6' deep. I've actually only dug down maybe 4' tops.

Here's a hole I dug last summer where I plan to build. It's maybe 3' deep or so. The ground here is mostly clay. I was able to dig that in maybe 10 minutes or so, just a guess.



She's about 5'4".

So you dug to China, now they are coming through the hole...good job

A rental site claims the digging depth is just over 8 feet and the reach is 11 feet on the Terramite T5C.  There is a Home and Garden show coming up this weekend which is supposed to have a Kubota dealer at it.  It should help give me an idea of what is out there compared to the Terramite.  With the property that I bought I could use the loader or backhoe every week for a year and still have projects left to do.  

Sounds like you might need a bigger tractor. The B series are a lot more tractor than the BX for dang near the same money, or a lightly used L is going to be in that price range as well.

ETA anytime your buying looking at the max capabilities (reach, lift, PTO) it means you intend to use it to that which could prematurely wear down the machine. Better to define what you want it to do and have that be about 60-80% of the machines capabilities because you will always find a project just a little bigger...only took me three tractors to learn this lesson

I have a very small place and smaller tractor would be adequate for most things.  Even the Terramite did the job, just took 3 times as long as I expected.  Some projects I want to do would require something larger though.  There is an 1998 L35 for sale near by.  The bucket force on the backhoe is rated at more than double what is on BX tractors.  I need to find one pictured with a BX tractor or see one in person to get a size comparison.  

The L35 tractor has over 1,800 hours on it and it looks like it has a rental company sticker on it though.  Is that a lot of hours for a Kubota and can they stand up to the abuse of being rental equipment?  

The BX is made to get through a 48" gate without the mower deck, the B is about the same height but wider stance and weight so it handles uneven terrain better and has greater rated capacities.  L series are higher and wider still but generally less than ~5' wide with wheels in.

1,800 hours on a diesel engine is just done breaking in but there could be damage to the rest of the machine.  Going to want to test hydro pressure, all the pins for tightness/slop, steering components and axles for cracks.

1800 hours is nothing assuming it was properly maintained.  As S2S said, check the hydraulic pressure to make sure it is still good.  Put it on a dyno if possible as well.

Used a loader to put away 150 tons of salt that will be used on roads next winter
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Those little loaders come in handy

its not super little its larger than the cat loader we have I would rather run this deere over the cat loader any day. I just like the controls better in the deere

An L35 with the BT900 backhoe was just listed in the local paper.  Very cheap too.  Probably something wrong with it for the price but I might check it out anyway.

Can always say no, never know when you might catch a deal.  Speaking of...

Bought a bush hog for the tractor we don't yet have.  Needs some work but couldn't say no for $100 

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I'd rather run cat controls tbh, probably cause I'm more used to cat controls, funny thing for a while I was the only one around the shop who knew how to drive the 924k, had to show my dad how to drive it and show him the ins and outs of the computer

I'm out of commission until I can find a replacement pump/hydrostat for my Cub. Anybody got a 717-3507 laying around?




This is going to take so long to fix I'm going to forget how to put this thing back together.

Let's see the rest of it.

Years ago I bought magazines for a handgun that I still don't own yet because they were a good deal.

I called the number in the paper, left a message, called back a second and never got a response.  The tractor is still listed in the paper today.  Not sure what the deal is.  The L35 is about 50% the price I've seen on any of the machine trader sites.  It's the best deal that I've seen so far.  A $100 for a bush hog is really good deal too.

Nothing wrong with the gearbox per say. The first pic is the issue. The first pic is one of the output shafts of the hydrostatic pump. Those splines are supposed to drive everything in the upper half of that gearbox. This includes the PTO, and auxiliary double pump, which provides hydraulic power to the loader, 3 point and power steering. 

Those splines have seen better days

I'd be concerned if chunks were missing....which I dont see any big chunks. How many hours on that hydrostat? Saying this because if you can find that shaft you could take it to a shop and have them press the new one in and give the whole case a good once over, gears and all.

Then again if you're all for getting a new one go that route lol

For $100 I don't think you'll loose any money but I wouldn't trust that deck unless I had a steel cage around my cab or I was just mowing grass.  In for the rebuild project thread

Sorry, you are above my maximum part limit for projects I'm brave enough to try

Later this year I'll plasma cut most of the deck out, draw up replacement panels in CAD and have the laser shop I use for work laser them out of 1/4" plate and weld them in.  Probably have $250 ish in it all said and done.

Does Cub actually make that or is it something else rebranded?  Looks like a pretty good little tractor.

I'd just scab 3/16" over the bad spots and run it. The gear box will give up before the 1/4". And the extra weight will be hard on your 3pt. Just looking at it if it has a stump jumper it might be rubbing.

May end end up doing that, I have a habit of overbuilding everything though .  Won't touch it until the tractor gets here.  Will pick it up and see what I have on the underside before I do anything.

Actual Cub Cadet. In 2009 or so they partnered with Yanmar for a couple of years, then un-partnered with them. I don't think they make these anymore though.

No chunks. The shaft is not exposed to the inside of the gear box, rather is inserted from the outside into the shaft that powers the PTO. 

Since everybody likes MS paint:

I guess my MS Paint broke this thread....

I did finally find the correct parts, I think. Now to see how much to rebuild the pump.

Just an FYI, Stay FAR AWAY from these Cub Cadet tractors. This is a known problem with these tractors. FML

Say away from cub cadet as a whole you mean. Their hydraulic systems collectively make them a joke with treads and blades

I've got an LT 1050 for a lawn mower. That seems ok. Bought it new in 2006. Wife and I are having those "next tractor" conversations now.

john deere or get out

jk

but yea john deere is always good

Well, as long as it's painted orange

I did not use the  BX2670 for anything today.    I did change the oil and check and add to any fluid that was low.  Tomorrow the mower deck comes out and gotten ready for grass cutting.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_19/680731_it_s_springtime__don_t_forget_about_your_NIPPLES_.html

used the backhoe to cut and clean up a tree I called it quits today as I do not think my back can take anymore for the day.
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used a Husky 450 rancher and a husky 372xp the 372 is a beast !!! I took it from work I damaged the bar and I had to buy a replacement one quickly so i paid a premium for it needing it quickly. I wish the wood was something like oak but it was a cottonless cottonwood

It's been in the 50's here for a few weeks now so I figured it was safe to take the snowblower off of the tractor and drop the plow off of the Rzr finally.  Then I grabbed the trailer and headed into town for a Menards and TSC run.  I've been looking at tillers for a while now and TSC had too good of a deal to pass up on a 72" Countyline (made by Behlen Country).  When I got home I had to put the snowblower right back on for a counter weight while I picked the tiller off of the trailer and took it into the shop.  Luckily with the quick hitch it's just a matter of backing up to it and raising the 3pt.  



I spent a couple hours getting it assembled and lubed up while also trying to keep our 9 month old lab puppy from getting too playful with my wife's ducks.



Then picked a random spot out on the edge of the yard to try it out.  It ran smooth and quiet and went through the dirt/gravel mix like nothing.  Now I just have to wait until the garden dries out to be able to put it to work.

I saw this thread the other day.  I plan on doing the same things.

Always called them "grease fittings" here.

Know what I call them.......junk when they fall out and the run dry, needless to say it was in there that morning............up until the time i went kablamo

There's your problem right there.

I'm trying to figure how that could strip like that.  Does it not get enough oil in there and then get moisture in through the outside of the shaft causing excessive friction?  

Maybe try lubing the shaft splines with high moly content grease when you reassemble it.

Looks from the rust that you are getting moisture in from the pump shaft side.

Looked like normal wear and tear over time with good moderate to heavy useage to me, as I said I'd be worried if it had taken chunks out of the splines. New seals and all would be a good thing when putting it back together as well as orings.

You don't drive this thing in any standing water do you?