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Posted: 3/26/2015 12:46:51 PM EDT
I was down at tractor supply for some stuff this morning, picked up a bag of onion sets, supposed to be jumbo super sweets, but we'll see.  Anyways, I've planted small bunches of onions before, as in around 10-20 or so, well, this time i bought a whole bag of 60 sets.

Anyways, I've never really had good success with them turning out very big, most of the time the tops do great, and i end up using them in a salad, and that is about it.  I've heard several things about when they go to seed to bend the tops over, I've heard to leave them, and let them go to seed, I've heard the soil has alot to do wit it, among other things.  At this point, I just want some pointers on how to get some decent sized onion that I can slice!

Churned up a new plot off the side of the garden today, and got them planted, guess I'll see what happens

Link Posted: 3/26/2015 1:45:02 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 3/26/2015 2:03:44 PM EDT
[#2]
I've heard you have better luck with seeds. Last year I did sets, but didn't plant them early enough so the heat of the summer really knocked them down too soon. Most of the onions produced were about the size of a racquetball, not quite tennis ball size. This year I planted mostly seeds, but did buy sets as well. Of the 50 or so I planted at the end of January, 5 came up. Most all the seeds are up and are bigger than the set plants. I'd be really happy with baseball or softball size onions!

Good luck!

Rob
Link Posted: 3/26/2015 2:49:12 PM EDT
[#3]
I don't know about that particular variety in your geographic area, but onions are pretty persnickity about day length.  Make sure you get an appropriate long-day/short-day variety for your area, or they'll never thrive.
Link Posted: 3/26/2015 2:57:33 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:

I don't have any luck with onions. Garlic does fine though.
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Funny how that works ain't it

I guess I'll see what happens. Im about as early as I can plant anything, hell 3 weeks ago the ground was still under snow.

As far as the tops, when they go to seed do I just leave them, or bend the tops over?
Link Posted: 3/26/2015 6:54:52 PM EDT
[#5]
Link Posted: 3/26/2015 9:28:31 PM EDT
[#6]
We grow Yellow Sweet Spanish and Copra onions.  Typically we get baseball to softball sized onions.  We buy plants and also start from seed to transplant as a backup.  Either way we do pretty well.

As mentioned you have to start out with the correct onion for your area for best results.  Daylength is important to the bulbing process.  When planting, if planted too deep they will not bulb out very well.  Ours usually end up being almost completely exposed i.e. the bulb is probably 80% above ground.  Onions are heavy feeders so good soil is important to allow the optimum uptake of fertilizer(s).  We use an initial dry fertilizer and then inject via drip irrigation.  Typically every couple weeks for fertilizing is fine.  Knowing when to stop fertilizing(as bulbing starts) and watering(couple weeks before harvest) is also important.  

The leaves will start to fall over which means they're getting ready for harvest.

We buy our plants from Dixondale Farms.  Lots of reference material available on their site.
Link Posted: 3/26/2015 9:49:10 PM EDT
[#7]
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Quoted:
We grow Yellow Sweet Spanish and Copra onions.  Typically we get baseball to softball sized onions.  We buy plants and also start from seed to transplant as a backup.  Either way we do pretty well.

As mentioned you have to start out with the correct onion for your area for best results.  Daylength is important to the bulbing process.  When planting, if planted too deep they will not bulb out very well.  Ours usually end up being almost completely exposed i.e. the bulb is probably 80% above ground.  Onions are heavy feeders so good soil is important to allow the optimum uptake of fertilizer(s).  We use an initial dry fertilizer and then inject via drip irrigation.  Typically every couple weeks for fertilizing is fine.  Knowing when to stop fertilizing(as bulbing starts) and watering(couple weeks before harvest) is also important.  

The leaves will start to fall over which means they're getting ready for harvest.

We buy our plants from Dixondale Farms.  Lots of reference material available on their site.
View Quote



Took a look at that site. Is the price per onion plant, or for a bag of sets or what? The description doesn't say. Thanks!
Link Posted: 3/26/2015 10:17:15 PM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:



Took a look at that site. Is the price per onion plant, or for a bag of sets or what? The description doesn't say. Thanks!
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
We grow Yellow Sweet Spanish and Copra onions.  Typically we get baseball to softball sized onions.  We buy plants and also start from seed to transplant as a backup.  Either way we do pretty well.

As mentioned you have to start out with the correct onion for your area for best results.  Daylength is important to the bulbing process.  When planting, if planted too deep they will not bulb out very well.  Ours usually end up being almost completely exposed i.e. the bulb is probably 80% above ground.  Onions are heavy feeders so good soil is important to allow the optimum uptake of fertilizer(s).  We use an initial dry fertilizer and then inject via drip irrigation.  Typically every couple weeks for fertilizing is fine.  Knowing when to stop fertilizing(as bulbing starts) and watering(couple weeks before harvest) is also important.  

The leaves will start to fall over which means they're getting ready for harvest.

We buy our plants from Dixondale Farms.  Lots of reference material available on their site.



Took a look at that site. Is the price per onion plant, or for a bag of sets or what? The description doesn't say. Thanks!


One bunch of 50-75 plants is $11.35.  We plant ours on 6" spacing so a bunch plants 25 - 37.5 feet.  

Click on Shop and then scroll down on the left margin for pricing, etc.
Link Posted: 3/27/2015 1:39:06 AM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:

As far as the tops, when they go to seed do I just leave them, or bend the tops over?
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I am not an onion expert but this was discussed in a gardening class I was at last weekend.

The tops falling over is a sign the bulbs are ready to harvest but also part of the curing process... If some don't fall you can push them over yourself  so the other ones don't rot while you wait for them to naturally fall.  I will check my notes for exact timelines tomorrow but what i remember is You then leave them for a couple days so they can start forming  a skin  at the top otherwise if this step is skipped they will never cure right and spoil.  It was the recommended they are dug up left  in sun to dry for a couple days then moved to  whatever curing setup you  have.

If they are sweet onions hat won't store or you plan to use them quickly then it doesn't matter and you can pull them whenever

Link Posted: 3/27/2015 4:04:35 PM EDT
[#10]
I bought a couple of bunches from Walmart last year, planted them, neglected the shit out of them, still had a bunch of golfball sized onions with a few larger ones. Hung them in the garage and ate them.

I got two more bundles this year, put a little more care into them, used some commercial grade fertilizer and they're growing like weeds.
Link Posted: 3/27/2015 10:52:57 PM EDT
[#11]
i cut back the green tops a few times early on and that helps.  when the green gets to about 6" i cut back to 4" and then again when it gets to 8-9" i cut back to 6".  helps get the nutrients to the bulb as opposed to the top.

Link Posted: 4/2/2015 6:57:38 PM EDT
[#12]
Has anyone tried regrowing them? I just started one today. If it doesn't work, it was free.
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