We have 4 apple trees on our property.  We keep them trimmed but have never really bothered with the apples so they are very wormy.

If I were to try and save the apples - what do I spray with?  How often?  When do I start?

just here to see what people have to say.

i planted a bunch 3 years ago. will be planting some more this spring.

have been thinking i need to learn about spraying them.

Start with learning to ID the common fungus's and pests.


A shotgun approach  with a GP "Fruit Tree spray" can work, but it can also not work, and waste money.
Bonide fruit tree spray is a GP mix that works, but compared to mixing your own it's expensive.

Generally, Malthion, Sevin XLR, and Captan will cover most pests, if there isn't too much local pressure.
The newer Permethrin and Pyretrhum based insecticides have better knock down but little residual activity and they nuke your beneficial's.
For chewing pests, Imadaclorpid based systemics are hard to beat.

http://apples.msu.edu/pest_management



LOTS of good info on the MSUE page. Including the fruit management guide.
The Fruit management guide is handy for timing and optimal pesticide selection.

http://apples.msu.edu/resources

Good luck!!

Here's my spray program for my apple & pear trees  "Late winter early spring"  Dormant oil  this is optional if their were no mite or scale problems the previous season. Spray Do when the emerging shoots are 1/2 " and the flowers are just begin to show some pink.

Don't spray again until flower petals fall from the latest varieties and bees have lost interest.   Then spray TRIAZICIDE insecticide + IMMUNOX fungicide  mixed together. Repeat once every 10-14 days. I use a  30 gal sprayer I hook up to my Honda 4 wheeler that does a pretty good job.

The TRIAZICIDE & IMMUNOX can be found locally at the big box stores and my local walmart.I usually wait until fall clearance to purchase it, since it's a seasonal item some stores offer good deals to make room for shelf space.

Thanks!

Picked up some Neem Oil, judging from the way things are greening up it will not be long before they wake up.

I've had the same problem with moths/worms.

I'm stepping up bigtime this year and spraying malathion every 14 days this year from petal drop to 3 weeks or so from harvest.

I'm killing these damn things once and for all.

I have a grasshopper problem with my peach trees. They have already busted out into flowers should I wait to spray?

Look into Sevin XLR, and Immidan, and rotate between applications of Malthion.

Malathion has excellent knockdown, but a very short period of residual activity. Immidan and Sevin XLR with a good sticker, will maintain protection for 7-10 days.

If it's just moths/worms, Intrepid kills the shit out of them, without affecting the beneficials like the Aphid predators you'll be looking for about mid season.
It's a synthetic Lepidoptera hormone that causes the worms to grow 87 heads and eat themselves, and is Bee safe.

the last few years i just bagged my apples.  i use mylon socks and a rubber band.  course i only have 2 apple trees.  i'll bag with ziploc bags this year and spray consistently.

What about peaches?  Similar treatment?

Spam removed~Waldo

this is the correct answer. I like to add captan to the mix.   ( captan and dormant oil are not compatable)    You should be able to get away with 2 sprays of triazide.  

I use imidan but that shit is toxic , and smells nasty.   not for someone just getting started.

sevin will cause fruit drop when sprayed at the right time (when fruit is the size of a pea if I recall)

So, if I don't want to deal with the fruit from 4 trees I can spray with sevin and the fruit will fail?  I knew there was something that stopped fruit formation on olive trees, I didn't know that it could be done with apple trees.

Whatever you do don't just spray the same pesticide back to back to back every time.  If you do this eventually your sprays will become innefective and they eventually won't work. Then you will have resistant bugs that get into a commercial crop and piss off real farmers.

Imidan, sevin, malathion are all good choices for coddleing moth, however inidan and malathion are both organo phosphates and sevin is a carbyril. They are all in the same chemical family, so not a great idea to use back to back to back.

For moths (make worms) try mating disruption, or at least us a trap to help time your sprays instead of just blindly applying chemical.

Don't put a horticultural oil on at pink, your getting too late. Stop heavy (4%) apps of oil after scale separation. If you want to use a heavy dormant oil (4%) go at first swell side green timing. Use an oil, microthiol sulfur, copper mix or a lime sulfur (10%)oil (4%) solution.  Later in the season you can use a 1% oil solution but avoid heavy apps after your buds have began to open to avoid phyto toxicity issues.

Thank you!
Resistant insects are a PITA, and lead to the EPA reclassifying and eventually phasing out insecticides.
We lost Guithion because of resistance growing to the point that benefit/Risk/persistence ratio got out of whack. Malathion is heading that way.
If we lose Immidan, us Fruit growers are screwed.  


However, Carbamates/Methylcarbamates and Organophosphates, are in a separate class for mode of operation.
Rotating Sevin XLR and Immidan is a common practice prescribed to avoid Resistance. Usually a third mode is also added as well.
2 Of one class in a row, and a change. Usually a Pyrethoid, or Carbamate like Lannate or Sevin.
The Extension entomologists are hot on the rotation lately, thanks to a couple of new invasive's.


Dunno if you have tried it yet.
Sulforix is a low volume substitute for Lime sulfur, that is much more effective, with less material needed, and a more consistent result.
It's downright awesome on scales, and fungus's when phytotoxicity isn't an issue. Costs a smidge more per acre, but the results are worth it.

Dunno if anyone pointed it out.  Captan/Captec + crop oil=Phytotoxicity issues!!!
Guys that run a good sticker like Nu-Film have had issues 3 weeks after applying Captan.
It's a good idea to just skip Oil once Captan has been applied period.

Some resources for you guys that don't mind digging in and reading.
There are LOTS of links and archives, and it's easy to get lost in all of it as it is a bit jumbled, but there is a TON of good info for the Hobby guys as well as us commercial guys.

MSUE Apple pages

Sevin can be used for thinning. Just make sure you approach it with the timing and variety factors in mind.

Here's a link that will explain in detail.

Thinning with Sevin

Not sure what state you are in, but every state issues a "Fruit production guide" annually. Some call it a "Spray Calendar".
They can be had at the local Ag extension, and most Ag Chem/Fert supplier/ retailers in your state.

What is appropriate, rate, and timing is outlined and listed in effectiveness, for each and every pest and disease.

The reason is to limit shotgunning, and excessive use of pesticides, and reduce waste of inputs.
Peaches have their own rules and pests. You need to know what the target is and go from there.

There really are no blanket spray programs or pesticides, just some that can be used like one, and get fair to middling results.

Give your local extension a holler, and bang around their web page. Most have Home and Garden resources and staff, sitting around bored, HOPING someone pesters them.

S-28 are you a consultant for a spray shed, a grower, or a fieldrep for a warehouse?  Your too knowledgeable to be an extension agent, at least based on our local one.

Grower, Applicator, scout.
I work for me, and never have worked for the Chem Pimps though...maybe when I retire.

Sorry to hear that your local extension is weak in that regard.
Some States are tightly focused on grains and livestock, and anything else gets little funding.

We are spoiled in this state, with many of the leading researchers and specialists working for MSUE, and available for grower consultation just about any time.
We also have a crazy awesome Home/Garden program though the extension, that is horribly under utilized, and under appreciated.

I encourage folks, even out of state folks, to use the MSUE resources whenever needed. The traffic keeps the extensions numbers up, and the politicians from considering cutting the funding.