Sitting on .41 acres in San Antonio and my old mower crapped out. A $75 refurbed john deer push mower i got 5 years out of. Time to upgrade.

I want to enjoy the mowing and the ride. I have a nice shed ready to store it. My front yard has a slight grade on the edge but not a lot. I get that this is probably overkill and several might suggest a nice self propelled mower but let me remind you its Texas and it gets HOT! Grass is mostly St. Augustine and will be as I keep putting effort into it.

I am looking into John Deere and Cub Cadet so far.
A zero turn sounds like it could be a lot faster and that is a bonus but will a slight grade really effect it?

Would like to keep it under $2500. Thoughts?

2500 is bottom of zero turn price, so I would be careful on buying one in that price range.  I am sure there are some good deals, but I would be careful.



2500 is a good price range for the tiny riding mowers.  You don't need the bigger deck or larger engine, buy a better engine brand and a better built mower and stay in the smaller size.  And even then, 2500 can easily be blown on these from what I recall.



The thing about a riding mower is you have a conventional setup and probably easier repairs.



I have a couple zero turns in the extended family and getting into hydraulic drive vs. belt annoys me.  Sure hydraulics are well proven and better for many reasons than belt drive.  But you know what I like about belts?  I can buy a belt at about any napa or on the net and replace it myself and not be out anywhere near the price for some of this hydraulic stuff.



Now if the hydraulic stuff can be rebuilt with new seals on my workbench, that is something to consider.  One uncle said they could not be readily rebuilt so he replaced em.  Not cheap.



I also like being able to hook a tiny trailer up to my riding mower for little stuff.  I have a little trailer to start with but I also like being able to hook stuff up and drag it with the mower or use it to pull the mower loose.



Zero turns handle some slopes, do some reading on em and decide for yourself.



I would not like using them on slopes but I know from what gets mowed by my uncles that they work well on slopes I would not touch.  I have borrowed one of their zero turns in the past and yes it is faster.  Yes it has a learning curve.  Yes I would like to own one but for just mowing I can not justify it due to the slope limitations.



I do have an atv for the little trailer if I got a zero turn.  But the riding mower setup works well for me, I can easily work on it and know the basics to most riding mowers already.  And yeah my riding mower has the old belt drive stick shift transmission, I don't get along with hydrostatic very well.  Back to that hydraulic thing I guess.



Most of my stuff is bought used, repaired as needed.  Replaced when a better handme down or used item is found or I outright blow something up but that is rare.



I had slopes to mow and a lot of mowing to do a decade ago.  I was sort of in your price range, wound up at 3k with tax and all.



Bought a brand new 36 inch exmark metro belt drive walk behind mower.  This is a well built unit that has lasted better than I expected.  I don't know what they cost now but mine is still running fine and did need new tires due to dryrot.  Had a tune up, gas tank cleaning, carb cleaning, and eventually it will even get some plugs.  It gets an oil change and filter each year or so, depends on how much I use it.



Due to slopes I was mowing no riding mower or zero turn would work, this one earned its keep well and while not an option you listed it might be something to consider used perhaps.

I wouldn't worry about the slope too much. I have a zero turn and mow some pretty steep spots. You just have to be careful.



For the size of your yard I think I would look at conventional riders. They are more versatile and I think that you could get more for your money. Good quality zero turn mowers are expensive!



 
 

I would have to agree. A quality ride on mower should coss less than $1,500. Depending on the layout of your property, I would say you can anticipate about a half hour of grass cutting with a ride on.

Never could see spending the price of a used car on a lawn mower



I'd suggest looking for an older Deere or Cadet rider. You should be able to pick one up for $100 or less and they're easier to work on without all the specialty bells and whistles.



Personally I'd just get another push mower, since it's cheaper, needs less upkeep and is a good workout.

After years of JD and Cub lawn tractors, finally bought a zero turn Commercial grade Cub.  I don't like it for my lawn.  Landscape is rough, rolling, steep grades.  Lawn tractor worked much better.  Zero turn is for finished landscape, flat, or gently rolling lawn.  Whatever you buy, get a good grade mower.  It will last a lifetime!

If you want to do ANYTHING other than mow, choose a tractor.

Even if you want to pull a little wagon around the yard to haul bags of mulch or pick up sticks from the latest storm, choose a tractor.

Zero turns are freaking AWESOME and they are the fastest way to mow. But all they do is mow.

MOST homeowners, especially with a property the size you have, will do better with a lawn tractor.  

It's more versatile, by far.

Thanks for all the info. I will be looking for a lawn tractor.
Still doing research into models and pricing....

Maybe this guy...
http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/cubcadet/lawn-and-garden-tractors/xt2/lx42

MOWER DECK

Deck Attach/Removal

QuickAttach™ (no tools required)

Deck Spindles

3/4" with steel cap and Triple Lip Sealed

Anti-scalping Wheels (front/rear)

2 Ball/2 Narrow

WARRANTY

Warranty

3-year Unlimited Hours (includes Powertrain) & 5-year Chassis & Front Axle Unlimited Hours/limited lifetime fabricated deck shell

MOWER DECK

Deck Cutting Height

1" - 4"

Deck Pulleys

Split steel spindle pulleys/oversized heavy-duty idlers

Mulch Kit

Optional

Deck Wash

Patented SmartJet™ high-pressure deck washing system

ENGINE

Engine Type

22 HP professional-grade Kohler® 7000 Series V-Twin OHV

Cylinders/Material

Twin/Cast-iron sleeve

Lubrication

Fully pressurized automotive-style oil pump w/ spin-on oil filter

POWER SYSTEM

Powertrain

Tuff Torq® foot-controlled hydrostatic transmission (K46)

Rear Differential

N/A

Engine to Transmission

Heavy-duty belt

Cruise Control

Soft touch engagement

Transmission Housing

Cast aluminum

STEERING

Rear Axle

3/4" w/dual PM steel drive hubs

Steering/Turning Radius

NEW optimized steering system, manual sector and pinion/16"

Front Pivot Bar

Heavy-duty cast-iron (5-year limited warranty/unlimited hours)

Front Axles

Heavy-duty 3/4" through machined bushings

Ball Joints

Fully-adjustable/Automotive-style

CHASSIS

Frame

Fully robotically-welded frame with new e-coating corrosion defense system (5-year limited warranty)

Hood

Front pivot, High impact with quick removal design

Bumper

Optional

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Battery

300 cold crank amps

Charging System

Flywheel alternator - 15 amp regulated

Headlights

NEW LED High Illumination

System Monitor Package

Digitial hour meter/service minder, oil, battery, brake and PTO start sequence

Cub Connect™

N/A

Safety Systems

Neutral Start, operator presence, reverse safety switch, brake pedal lock, RevTek reverse mowing technology

OPERATION

PTO Clutch

Smooth lever engagement

Deck Lift

Lever/12-position/spring-assisted

Brakes

Automotive-style disc

Seat

NEW Cub Comfort™ high-back seat with 10 degree incline and slide

ADDITIONAL SPECIFICATIONS

Tires (Front/Rear)

15" x 6" ball bearing/20" x 8"

Tire Tread

Multi Trac

Forward Speed

5.5 mph

Reverse Speed

3.1 mph

Fuel Tank Capacity

3 gal. easy fill, rustproof

Engine Oil Capacity

1.8 qt.

Wheelbase

47"

Length/Width/Height

68"/50"/42.5"

Estimated Weight

450 lbs.

MOWER DECK

Cutting Width/Blades

42"/Twin Blades

Deck Construction

Stamped

went with a cheap JD

easier to use the trailer/

going on 10 yrs.just a battery replace.

clown

Where are you getting it?
Dealer?  Or big-box store?

I ask because the big box stores accept no responsibility.

And their repair service sux.

a friend of mine is a professional, owns a company that mows dozens of commercial establishments.

According to him a zero turn is about 35% faster BUT he has to do a K turn instead of a quick U turn to avoid tearing up lawns.

Also, as was mentioned ... 2500 zero turn is low end.  You can buy a nice Deere or Cadet for that price.

That size lawn to mow I don't see the value in spending more to get a zero turn.  

Hell with a lawn/garden tractor and mower deck you should knock that out in just one beer on a Saturday morning.   Sounds like you look forward to the zen time on your mower and the tractor will give your 35% more zen time.

If you are ever going to need to pull a trailer, spreader, or any other attachment....get a rider. If you are only going to be mowing....get the zero turn.

But....for .41 acres, I don't think it's worth the actual cost for a zero turn. I mow 3 acres.....and I was on the fence about it. If I had less than 1/2 acres, I would just get a cheap rider and be done with it.