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Posted: 10/19/2014 8:37:51 PM EDT
I cut down somewhere around 30 trees, ranging in size for 40-60 feet and 14-30 inches in diameter. I didn't so any math, but I estimate it to be at the very least 20 cords of wood. A unexpected life event came up and is consuming all of my free time until the end of the year. Unfortunately, many of the trunks have full contact with the ground. Will they keep until the spring if directly laying on the ground? I have taken a few that have been suspended in the air a little bit, but I just want to be safe and not lose all this wood. Thanks all.
Link Posted: 10/19/2014 8:42:29 PM EDT
[#1]
years.
Link Posted: 10/19/2014 8:54:41 PM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:
years.
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Maybe, maybe not. Depends on how much rain, snow, or moisture gets to the trees, then there is the termite/ants/bark burrowing pests.

But your trees will be fine until you get at them in the spring.
Link Posted: 10/19/2014 8:56:12 PM EDT
[#3]
And depends on tree species.

I've cut up some dead walnut and oak that had been dead for over 50 years and it was solid and rock hard.
Link Posted: 10/19/2014 9:00:48 PM EDT
[#4]

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Quoted:





Maybe, maybe not. Depends on how much rain, snow, or moisture gets to the trees, then there is the termite/ants/bark burrowing pests.



But your trees will be fine until you get at them in the spring.
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Quoted:

years.


Maybe, maybe not. Depends on how much rain, snow, or moisture gets to the trees, then there is the termite/ants/bark burrowing pests.



But your trees will be fine until you get at them in the spring.
thats true, but he's in my state.  I'm assuming he's talking hardwoods.



 
Link Posted: 10/19/2014 9:37:15 PM EDT
[#5]
Katrina blew a 80' 20" white oak down next to our front yard.  Two years later it was NOT fit to be cut for firewood.  The trunk only touched the ground at the roots and the 60' mark as it fell across an embankment. If you can.'t cover them expect to lose them in 2 years or less.
Link Posted: 10/19/2014 9:55:33 PM EDT
[#6]
Species?  Intended use?

Hard hardwoods (oaks, hickories, but not ash, even though it's a HHW) are going to last a lot longer than soft hardwoods (gums, red maple, yellow-poplar).

If you're looking at firewood, even if there is some decay you'll still have a lot of good firewood for the next year at least,.
Link Posted: 10/19/2014 10:23:22 PM EDT
[#7]
would it be possible to higher some high school kids and have them at least cut the wood and stack them?
Link Posted: 10/20/2014 8:31:55 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Species?  Intended use?

Hard hardwoods (oaks, hickories, but not ash, even though it's a HHW) are going to last a lot longer than soft hardwoods (gums, red maple, yellow-poplar).

If you're looking at firewood, even if there is some decay you'll still have a lot of good firewood for the next year at least,.
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Many of the trees are oaks. Right now we just have a fireplace, but I will eventually be purchasing a wood stove insert when we have the money.
Link Posted: 10/20/2014 8:40:46 AM EDT
[#9]
For firewood you'll be fine waiting until spring.

Link Posted: 10/20/2014 1:30:00 PM EDT
[#10]
I cut firewood from Oak tops after we had the property logged.  Three maybe for years it was good, after that it had too much rot to be worth it.
Link Posted: 10/20/2014 8:15:45 PM EDT
[#11]
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I cut firewood from Oak tops after we had the property logged.  Three maybe for years it was good, after that it had too much rot to be worth it.
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I got some of this type last year.  It's on the dirty side with the bark sloughing off with the cambium rotted/eaten away.


You'll be fine over the winter.  Most of the time the water will be bound up by freezing.  
Link Posted: 10/20/2014 8:29:04 PM EDT
[#12]
Depending on how the next few weeks play out, I may have access to an excavator. If that's the case, I will just cut them into 15 foot length and then stack and cover them to deal with later, but from ARF's experiences, it doesn't seem necessary.
Link Posted: 10/21/2014 12:23:38 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:
Katrina blew a 80' 20" white oak down next to our front yard.  Two years later it was NOT fit to be cut for firewood.  The trunk only touched the ground at the roots and the 60' mark as it fell across an embankment. If you can.'t cover them expect to lose them in 2 years or less.
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This has been my experience with maple, cherry, and various junk hardwoods on my property.
Link Posted: 10/21/2014 5:45:18 PM EDT
[#14]

I think either my experience with cutting deadwood is much different then you guys, or my expectations of the wood quality is much different.





The property behind me was logged 10 years ago. I gathered up what was left laying around and stacked it up, I'm still cutting out of that pile. The bark on most of it has fallen off, but the wood is pretty good, with only minor rot. When you handle the wood in the splitter all of that crap falls off anyway. Couple months in my pile with a tarp over it, and its good.





2-3 years cant be that big of a deal in my neck of the woods, anyway.


Link Posted: 10/21/2014 7:22:03 PM EDT
[#15]

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Quoted:
Many of the trees are oaks. Right now we just have a fireplace, but I will eventually be purchasing a wood stove insert when we have the money.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Quoted:

Species?  Intended use?



Hard hardwoods (oaks, hickories, but not ash, even though it's a HHW) are going to last a lot longer than soft hardwoods (gums, red maple, yellow-poplar).



If you're looking at firewood, even if there is some decay you'll still have a lot of good firewood for the next year at least,.




Many of the trees are oaks. Right now we just have a fireplace, but I will eventually be purchasing a wood stove insert when we have the money.

Barring the trees aren't laying in a swamp, and you don't have a plague of termites, the wood should be fine for a burning.  If you can get to it though you might want to try to cut/split at least some of the wood from time to time as it's going to have to season before you can use it.  Especially for a wood stove.  So just plan ahead that if you take a year to cut/split the trees, then it's going to be firewood for the following year.  Especially if you get a catalytic type insert.




 
Link Posted: 10/21/2014 7:33:19 PM EDT
[#16]
Well I found someone who will take some of the wood, giving me $30 per full bed pick up load. I think this is a fair price for both him and myself. I'll make sure to leave several cords worth for myself to season and have for a few years of burning.
Link Posted: 10/22/2014 11:35:40 AM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:
I think either my experience with cutting deadwood is much different then you guys, or my expectations of the wood quality is much different.



The property behind me was logged 10 years ago. I gathered up what was left laying around and stacked it up, I'm still cutting out of that pile. The bark on most of it has fallen off, but the wood is pretty good, with only minor rot. When you handle the wood in the splitter all of that crap falls off anyway. Couple months in my pile with a tarp over it, and its good.



2-3 years cant be that big of a deal in my neck of the woods, anyway.

View Quote



My area is pretty wet.

Last hunting season, I noticed an apple tree that had fallen over. I wanted to get it cut up for firewood (and smoking wood) and I put it on the to do list for the summer. I never got around to it, and already about 25% of it is pretty punky.
Link Posted: 10/25/2014 1:47:10 AM EDT
[#18]
Silver maple, cottonwood, Black Cherry, Popple, and Ash, will all be junk inside of two years here. It's nasty humid and wet.

If nothing else, run the saw down the length of the stem and buck them up.
Then stack on sapplings laid down between trees when you get time.

The cut bark will pop loose as the wood shrinks, and allow for faster drying with less cambium rot.
Placed on the saplings gets them off the ground.

Later on just haul and split.

I have done this for years in our woods, and an old Uncle did the same for 70 years or so.
Some years there is too many wind thrown trees to get to, others, not enough.





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