Is there a way to do this?  This for a hunting/fishing cabin, so no real worries about code or permiting.  Just don't want to burn the place down.  Thanks in advance.

You need a thimble........

do a search for "stove pipe thimble";lots of info.......

Been heating with wood for many, many years. The safest, best way, IMHO, is to get a single length of insulated stovepipe. Can't remember the name of the stuff, but it works great. In this application, it would be called a "thimble". A thimble is anything that holds the pipe as it passes thru the wall.

Use overkill...be safe.

cap

whats the worst that could happen? carbon monoxide poisoning? fire? I bet you would save a hundred or two

I used to use a two piece thimble of sorts. They were metal and had an air space around the pipe and screwed together from both sides of the wall or interior ceiling.  
I have also used a ceramic thimble. I would frame up an opening through the exterior wall between the studs then fill it with brick with the ceramic thimble in the center.

edit for spelling.

Thanks for the info.  I have already purchesed a 36" piece of the dura tech insulated pipe from Lowe's.  I left the ceiling open.... for now, so the insulated pipe would pass next to two joists and the through the roof.  Would you suggest using a thimble to pass through the roof as well (only about 2" thick)?  Or should I just cut a hole with a 2" + circumference around the pipe, and then use the weather proof flashing?..... the insulated pipe is pretty solid stuff.  

The roof is metal, which is why I was asking about potentially passing the pipe through the wall.  Since it seems like it would a hard time trying to seal it back up.

I would buy a roof penetration kit from one of the home improvement stores.

Even insulatedchimney pipe has clearance requirements...



Single wall pipe requires 18" of clearance from a combustible material; double wall drops the clearance to 6" on the sides or 8" from a ceiling.  Class A insulated chimney pipe (for use in attic spaces and passing through walls) drops the clearance to 2" but requires the correct hardware to maintain it's Class A rating.  In other words, you must use the ceiling.attic/wall pass-thru KIT or assembly from a single manufacturer.  If you mix & match brands or use non-rated parts, you will lose the UL listing for the assembly; it may still work correctly, but wouldn't pass code inspection or insurance inspection if a fire happened.



 

The insulated pipe I have is rated for 2" clearances.  "Thimble" was the key word I was missing from my searches.

I'm getting more confidence now after doing some searches.  One question though.... would it be a good idea to get a thimble and make a box between the joist of the exposed ceiling simply just for support of the stove pipe?  Would you connect it to the thimble with a pip screw then?

Edit:  Is there an adapter out there that will neck back down to uninsulated pipe, once you have passed through the roof?  I can't seems to find anything out there, and it seems like a waste of money to continue with insulated pipe once I am through the roof..... unless there is a good reason to continue using insulated pipe.

While I'm sure there's something available to do what you want, you actually want to keep the flue has temps as high as possible to minimize creosote formation.  When the gas temps drop, the solids begin to condense on the walls of the chimney and collect as creosote.  Additionally, as the temps drop, you begin to lose the draft that's created by the warm gas rising and could potentially cause a negative draft with smoke coming back.  I doubt it would happen since you shouldn't have very much exposed pipe above the roof.



Also, you should have the top of the chimney a minimum of 2 feet higher than any other surface within a 10 foot radius.



 

Really good info, thanks!

I know about the 2' above within 10' radius rule.  Pitch of the roof isnt very steep, so the the stack doesn't have to be too high.

http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/L123_W.pdf

That was the advantage of a stove with the catalytic combustor.  Like the CC in your car, it got very hot and burned off the creosote in the vent gas.  You could dial back the inlet air just to allow the combustor to stay lit, and reduce fuel burn for efficiency.  The danger of creosote formation was reduced.