I want to hear more about the elevated blond.  

i've never seen a deer blind with a urinal built in before

Just wait until he finds a bidet hiding on a shelf in his barn...

Odd that you mentioned that...

I have some 5 gallon 'Ozarka' bottle in the garage... I was thinking today that I *could* have running water in there...

TRG

My buddy, Locksmith76 deserves full credit for the idea.

TRG

He's on a pedestal.

TRG

Where are the 3 bowling balls hidden?

In the neighbor's barn.

I think they would enjoy the surprise.

TRG

I just wanted to post on pg 87 of this thread.

From a discussion in the Deer Hunting forum, I decided to add in a window.  Found some pieces of glass in my old storage building, and decided to make them work.

Had to but some clear silicone sealant.



Outside:



The window gives me the ability to see back down toward the road and entry way.  I have three more pieces of glass, but, I really can't find another place that I really need.  I'll wait until I am hunting in it and then determine if another is needed.

Zoomed in, 4x, looking at my hanging deer feeder.  I didn't want it visible from the road.  It's barely visible from the blind itself.





Used the final piece of 'drop' from the bench and put in one last shelf.    It is over the bench and out of the way.  Sturdy enough for almost a full case of water.



Cleared brush and vines across the dry creek.  I can now see the main grazing area where I have seen most of the deer.  I'll need to range it, but, I think it is about 250 yds to the grass in the area that they like.

Solar trickle charger/maintainer is now roof mounted, and I used the remaining silicone to seal some gaps to help keep rain out.

Other than adding LED lights, and some 12v outlets for phone charges or spot lights...  I think I am about done diddle-dorking-around </DPeacher voice> on the blind.

TRG

I have SO many questions, but am afraid of the answers.

Pour another, then ask..


TRG

that is one well appointed jack shack

4G LTE...

TRG

I've been following the blind odyssey, and now as we see the final product emerging, I can't help but think that it lacks panache.  Perhaps some art on the walls or a tapestry that represents the primal nature of the shack though hinting at your urbane inner self.

Needs some velour paintings and spanish axes on the back wall?






TRG

Just lacking one last crucial element...

Camo pattern for the barrel.

I tried to make the lines look like nearby trees and forks.

Lighter areas help to break up the shapes. Edges flow/wrap to avoid outlining the barrel's perpendicular edges.



Looking back to the blind.



TRG

the masterpiece "Dogs Playing Poker" would also be suitable

Now, that's a good idea!

TRG

Put in a thermometer today.  It nudged 100 in the blind.  

I also added cushions to the bench.

Southern breeze at 10-20 mph this afternoon

I only meant to lay down and rest my eyes for a second...



It was nice place to nap afterall...

TRG

Started work on my deer blind too...  



























Isn't one of these in your future as well?

TRG

Yup!

That's why the 'deer blind' just so happens to be a perfect place to take a nap.  



TRG

Your wisdom continues to astound!

Some men just settle for a man-cave but you pulled off a man-30 acres.

Well done!

 

 bravo!

TRG

TRG

Time for a couple of updates.  The July and August weather has been cooler than normal.   Rain is still too little and and not enough depth, but, the garden has managed to keep us in tomatoes, peppers, onions, and lately watermelons.

I have put off planting any 'Fall' garden items for now.  I've had too many other irons in the fire.  New 12x12 building, Deer stand, truck problem, deer lease and now I have 25 barred rock hens due this week.

The Fall plantings, like lettuce and greens can just wait.  

I built my coop 3 years ago, maybe 4?  It works, but, it's too far from the house, there is no opportunity for bugs, worms, or grass for the hens without releasing them to the predation of foxes.

Decided to re-do my coop from scratch, in a new location.

I re-visited the pile of sheet metal in the barn on the new property and dug through it too see if there was enough to maybe build a shed.  I thought the pile of materials was just 'drop' from the construction of the existing barn.

Apparently, not.

It appears to be the partial remains of a previous barn or shed!

"Yo dog, I heard you like barns, so we put a barn in your barn, dog...."

I only found two straight (un trimmmed) panels.   The gradients you see in this stack represents the pre-cut sides of a shed.  Each is 1' shorter than the other and would have made an 18' wide barn!



You can see the pieces clearer here:



Left sides.  I think one of these is missing.  I need to re-check the old barn in case I just did not see it in the pile.  But, all of these match up for the sides of the shed.



Missing?



Three panels laid together.  This gives me a 9' 3" run.  If I over lap a panel it gives me 8' 4"

Someone 'splain to me why this is not in 4' increments on the nose?  I'm kind scratching my head now on what dimension to make this building.



Rough sketch of the build's dimensions:




I have only 1 straight (un trimmed) piece.

I don't want to buy more panels.  I plan to make either an 8' or 9' deep building.  The remaining walls and roof will be constructed by cutting the previous 'wall' panels to length.

If I build it with an 8' 4" side wall, I am going to need to either rip some panel, fold them around corners, or something.  If I go an extra foot to 9' 3" I am in to 10' and 12' lumber.

There is some wide flashing in the new barn and some trim pieces that I might use to fudge the dimensions if I go to 9' 3", but, 8 is looking like the option right now
One side will, for now, be open...facing the house, with a mostly Southern exposure.  There will be a run added, later, to give them a place to graze.  

I am planning to put this adjacent to the lower garden to make it easier to get scraps to the hens as well as rig up a way to let them graze, scratch and fertilize between seasons.

TRG

another great score

Glad to hear you've decided to keep the birds.

For now ... These new ones won't lay to spring.

Running two coops this winter is going to be a pain.

TRG

Let's hope it works as planned.

TRG

Picked up a trailer load of railroad ties today.  Mostly 9 to 11 feet.  They vary in condition (used by RR) but should provide corner posts for the fence on the new property and also four corner posts for the new coop.

The new tenants for the coop:



25 barred rock and one naked neck.

They took to the water nipples instantly.  Each ate a big meal of chick starter and then took naps.

I under 4.00 per chick, delivered, and inoculated through McMurray

http://www.mcmurrayhatchery.com/barred_rocks.html

TRG

Got started on the coop.  I had to purchase the lumber for the coop, but, the metal is free.  Still was surprised how much lumber costs these days.  

Step by step so far...

Cross ties that I picked up the other day for fencing were mostly 8' long.  Two of them were 10;.  I decided to save a few bucks and use them for the tall corners of the coop.  

They had the rail plates still attached.  Took a big tool to get those spikes out.



I think this thing is 5' long, and it's a beast.  Still took a lot of labor to remove those spikes.




Almost forgot, new 'automatic' feeders since I took out the deer feeder to use on the new property.  Cheap, effective.  Came out of the greenhouse I salvaged last year.  Works perfectly.



Eugene saw the camera out.  No kidding ... every time.



I needed a way to put the crossties in the ground.  I levered them off one flat bed to my spare.  Then used the flatbed rail as a lever to position the ties.  This kept me from ever fully lifting the 200lb ties.  Worked really well.



Stonehenge... eat your heart out.  

But, damn it was spooky.  200lbs, 1 foot below ground, 90% above ground.  Was tough to get it stabilized, level and positioned without it toppling over as I worked at ground level.



I had already set the two lower posts last night.  They are store-bough 8" diameter 8' posts.  Decided to use them since this job is in full sun, and 4x6 posts might warp before I could get them solidly framed up.  They were standing prior to the previous pic.  I used the trailer again for the second monster post.



Putting up the cross braces was a challenge.  10' and 12' 2x6 posts, treated, needed to be in two places at once.  

Luckily the 'drop' from cutting the 10' 2x6s served as spare hands.



Used the trailer as a ladder to get to the 9' resting place for the header 2x6x12'.  





Used the lower board on the 8" post as my 'straight and level' point.  Used a framing square to square the first lower board to the Stonehenge post and used the board lengths as my guide for positions of post.

My 'bust' on the whole perimeter was 1/2" .... easy to handle

The materials in the pic came to 160.00.

I am heading back to the hardware store for the roof and floor joists.

I'm beat though.  I was hoping to hang metal today, but that may wait till tomorrow.

TRG

Well that wont' be going anywhere anytime soon!

I can sympathize with you on the one-man build challenge... the kids swingset I'm wrapping up felt like a 12' mouse trap at times.  

Something that beefy needs a beefy chicken... like a Brahma!



I need to find a local deal on some RR ties like that...

That is one big rooster.

Bought 10 more 2x6's for floor and roof joists, joist hangers.  3 sheets 3/4" treated plywood and 1x4 lathes (for X-bracing) and 3 more pounds of 3" screws.

Added 283.00 in lumber to the bottom line.

I'll still need a few things .. hinges, latches, 12v battery (for LED lights).

I think I can have the entire building done for under 500.00.  

12x9 floor.

6' on the low end.

9' on the tall end.

I am planning 4 individual runs that will fan out from the North (low) side.  I priced the wire today.  50' roll of 72" wire is 38.99

TRG

TRG

Went from this last night.  Two posts set and a base board leveled:




To this today.  




I finally got chased off by the heat and fatigue.

I marked the floor joists and will start on the floor in the morning.  I'll need to level the ground a little under the floor so the joists will not be in soil contact.  They are pressure treated, but, no need to leave them in the soil if it just takes some shovel time to reduce the contact.

TRG

Random thoughts...

Why floor it at all if its a coop or are you thinking pest protection?

Are you going to put vinyl down or similar as a moisture barrier to slow rot?

Maybe a slight pitch in the floor to encourage drainage/ ease cleanout?

Hinged panel at floor height to push bedding out through?

Regardless,  looking good.

I think a vinyl floor, with a hinged roost (so I can clean under) is probably the best plan.

TRG

Solid.

One last idea I've been considering on my next build... gutter connected to the water bucket.

Good idea.  I have three 275 gallon containers that have been sitting, unused, for a year out there.  No trees near this coop, could provide a lot of water for free.

I'll see about setting that up.

TRG

Got two walls up, floor is done, rafter and lathes are done.



Finally had to stop with light fading and batteries spent.



The Balers came today to bale the new 30 acre place.  It made 74 bales.

We talked about an offer on the lease.  He offered a 60/40 split  I don't need/want the hay or the time and trouble to store and sell it. This would give me 30 bales (but, I would need a tractor and time to sell it) per bale as 'payment'

1/3rd of the property is weedy and not fit for hay.  I don't want to keep brush hoggin it.  The Baler and I spoke at length about the property, he has baled it many times in the past.  

He has agreed to manage the hay production and increase the yields.  This includes all costs for fertilizer, weed spraying and possibly discing, equipment, fuel, labor for the entire place and  leading to a plan to replace the Bahia grass with coastal Bermuda. Bermuda will produce more tonnage per acre and increase yields.  

Included in this agreement is the plan to spray the entire 'rough' part of the property with weed killer and get it to begin producing hay.  

Again, all at his expense. He has 35 years experience in the area and seems to know his trade and practices.

My 'math' indicated that at the current level of management (no fertilizer, no weed control), the bahia field will produce 100-125 bales per year.  This would (60/40) mean 40-50 bales that I would 'own' as payment .. with no way to move them.  Approximately 1200.00 in 'value' of the lease.

He's confident that the property is not working to its potential.  I agree.

Instead, I negotiated with him for a flat rate on 100% of the produced hay.  He will pay me 7.00 per bale.  Annually this will mean 700-800.00 in cash in lieu of bales (at current yields), but, I think that by allowing him to manage the hay he should be able to produce twice the current yield ... at no cost to me.

If he follows through with changing the field over to Bermuda the yields will more than double.  If the back 1/3rd begins to produce it will go even higher, no to mention increasing the value at any future sale.

That should mean that I will make more money under this plan.

We'll see how it pans out.  Handshakes and promises, you know how that can go.

They have also leased the barn 'gratis' on the condition that they follow through with weed spraying and management.  They want to store tractors there over the winter.  

TRG

I finished putting up all the walls and built a door for the coop.

In my head I had enough scrap panels to do the entire building.  That turns out to be 100% true, however, the 4 sheets I had planned to us for the roof are in worse condition that I initially though.  In stead of putting on a leaky roof I am going to buy 4 sheets of new metal for the roof.

I'll use those 'leaky' panels elsewhere.  I'll probably put them in the run to make a shaded area for summer.

Door.  Made from leftover roofing lathes.



Inside looking toward door (now covered in metal)



The lower 'North' wall (entry to the runs) will be made from plywood and metal.  I want hinged doors there and instead of trying to bend sheet metal to the job, plywood will make it much simpler to work with.

TRG

That's coming along real nice.

What's your plan for ventilation?

Sounds like the hay arrangement could work out well for both of you all - if he can follow through.  

I sloped it to the North.  This will keep some of the summer sun from baking the coop.  I plant to put vents at the 9' peak.  Since it will be so far above ground, I'm not worried about varmints crawling up and in, but, I will screen it with metal wire to stop birds from coming inside to poach pellets.  I will try to engineer a way to close off the vents for the winter.

For the hay .. . yeah, if he follows thought it could be profitable for the Baler and myself.  By this time next year I will either be cussing or crowing about the follow-through on this thing.

TRG

gotta love a property that pays for itself

Slowed down a little on the coop because school is starting up again.  Got back after it today.  The detail work on flashing, corners, doors, windows, roost .. takes  time.

Looking in from the door.  Roost 'UP'



Sep in, looking back Roost 'DOWN'





Used pennies and silicone to plug holes in the used tin.



Plywood for the the entry to the runs.



Four doors cut in.  Roost is UP in this pic, doors can be opened with roost UP or DOWN.



Added a window.  Still need to add some latches to the doors for each run (to keep coons out) and wire up the battery for LED lights.  Solar panel too.

TRG