So, the Oliver was bugging me and here are some pics to show the progress on the project.

A few months ago...







Other than being just about hte most comforatable and ergonomic tractor I own .. it has almost new tires.






So the leak in the air intake canister was not small.  It was a large area that was allowing water to saturate and ultimately overfill the oil bath. It was not salvageable.  I could put my finger through the damaged area.  Just 50 years of moisture damage.

I checked the local auto parts store and did not find a 1 1/2" air filter.  I had to use teflon tape to wrap the intake to increase its diameter, but the soft rubber of the air filter was malleable enough for a pipe clamp to hold it tightly in place.




There is a small leak in the fuel particle bowl.  I thought it would be something minor that I could fix (it's leaked since day one that I've owned it).  Fixed that leak and decided to add an inline fuel filter ... that caused a new leak.    Old fuel line, dry rot, and one too many attempts to fit it to a filter.  Going to just redo the bowl and line tomorrow.



Muffler was going bad last year.  A huge volume of rain and moisture this spring ... it was coming apart.  So .. new muffler too.  There was not an 'Oliver' muffler at TSC, but there was a Ford.  I had taken some measurements, but, it was going to rub the hood and cause heat stress.  Used some of the old muffler pipe to make a temporary pipe until I can get to the muffle shop and have an new one made with all the bends I need.



Masked off the tires.  I really needed to pull the tires and do this 'right, but, I am trying to squeeze this project in, not make it a frame off restoration.



Almost done painting.  I had taken the hood off to make it easier to work on the fuel system.



Almost done, had one more coat of paint to apply to the rear tire im.



All three of my recent 'that's been bugging me for a while..." projects.



The Beaver is going to need new tires on the front.  I just can't keep air in them.  The outer rubber is full of mesquite thorns and keeps shredding the inner tubes.  It weeps/oozes slimy black gunk and hold air for less than an hour before it is flat again.  Both sides.

TRG

So, I was looking at Google pics tonight.  I was told when I bought this tractor, "It's a Super 55, but someone changed the hood, it's really a Super 55."

I don't think that is the case.  I am beginning to think this is actually an Oliver 550.  

Google image search and see what you think.

TRG

Oliver 550:



Oliver Super 55...



There was no dark green, red or orange on this tractor.


So .. yeah .. this isn't a Super 55 afterall.

TRG

I thinks it's a 55, course I need glasses these days too.

Few things that I see in your pics:

550 has a spin on oil filter and it looks like the Super 55 has a canister type filter assembly?

550 has some type of vertical tube? going by the foot pedals and the Super 55 does not?

550 has a vertical exhaust and the Super 55 does not?

It appears your tractor has the spin on filter of a 550. No vertical tube? by the pedals like the Super 55. No vertical exhaust and no hole in the hood like a Super 55.

So it look like yours has some attributes of both tractors.

Mine:



A known 550:



Same oil filter.  Mine was a white 'WIX' prior to spry painting.

Exhaust does not go through the hood on the 550s or Super 55s.  Image makes it appear so, but, mine has the left side bracket on the outside of the hood to attach the vertical exhaust.



The mystery tube, by the pedals .. I dunno.  Mine does not have it, but, I will look for a connection.  I'll also run the serial number.  I ran it as a  'Super 55' and the numbers do not completely coincide.

TRG

Mystery tube by the side appears to be a lever going into the transmission housing to my untrained eye.  Looks like TRG's tractor has a cover plate in that area.  Hi Lo range lever?

A tractor shed (just a roof really) is a tremendous help in keeping the water out of all those places it can leak into.  With all the rain, you might want to check the transmission cases for water if you suspect any could have leaked in through ports of the boots around the levers.

I did catch the pic of your oil filter prior to painting as a Wix spin on.  It just looked to me as though the Super 55 in the example pic had a slightly taller and slender filter housing typical of a mid '50's canister filter assembly.  Hard to tell for sure with the pic as with the exhaust system.

Yours looks very nice with the fresh paint on it.  How far did you go with prep beside degreasing?  My 4 Cubs and the Super A are begging for paint.  Got one in the process of degreasing.  Just have to figure out how far to go after that.  Mine are workers so show quality is not important.  The problem is I've done a number of show quality cars and it's hard to stop once I get started!

Prep work:

Water wash.
Degreaser
Water wash
Degreaser
Water wash

Wire brush on a Ryobi drill on all small rusted areas and thick grease.
Degreaser
Water wash

Remove grill (only major white sheet metal)
Tape/Mask
Paint.

My data plate:



Serial appears to be 16 783-518

Super 55 numbers:  http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/6/6/666-oliver-super-55.html

550 numbers:  http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/6/8/680-oliver-550.html

Looks like a Super 55 by the gap in the serial range.  Dunno about the -518, but that still looks like it goes to a Super 55.

I found one image of a Super 55 with the green and white (no yellow, no orange) paint scheme.

TRG

Discussion on another board about the serial numbers:

http://olivergang.org/discus/messages/78/164.html?1006784771

"Your serial number is 88-813. The 519 at the end of it is a transmission code. Most 550's had this transmission.

The number 45-0365 is a specification number. The first 2 digits, '45' means this tractor is Super 55 or 550.
Super 55 spec numbers started with 15, 25, 35, 45, 55, or 65.
550 spec numbers started with 35, 45, 55, or 65.
The last 4 digits of the specification number do mean something, but I don't know what it is.

Later in the 550 production, specification numbers were replaced by model numbers on the serial number tags. Those model numbers started with either 415 or 515. This 3 digit number was usually followed by a 5 digit number. I do know what 2 of these numbers mean. "

And another site: http://www.ssbtractor.com/wwwboard/view_all.cgi?bd=oliver&msg=444

"Oliver uses the spec# to note model it is above the serial number a l954 spec would be 14-000?, 1955, 15-0005, 1956 16-000?, 1957 17-000?, 1958 18-000? This is info I collected from the Charles City Iowa Oliver Club. The spec number tells the year and options, the first part of the serial number is the order down the line and the last three numbers are transmission codes."

So the 519 is a transmission code associated with most 550s.  Mine is 518

My specification number is 15-0005 (1955 production)

My serial starts with "16" also a 1955 date code for the Super 55.

Looks like mine is a Super 55 with the wrong clothes on it.  

#783 off the line in 1955.

TRG

6 speed transmission.  No hi-lo lever.

It is an odd "Double-H" transmission lever.

Find neutral, go all the way forward for the lo-range H.

Find neutral, go all the way back to find the high-range H.

It takes some practice, and unlike the Ford Super Major, it is less convenient to go up/down a range, but the PTO is shift-on-the-fly.  No need to stop or slow down the transmission to engage/disengage.

Later this week I am going to install a new alternator (mine tested bad) and re-wire it (mystery short draining battery).

TRG

I did check the transmission prior to the restoration.  There was no indication of water migrating from the carb to the cylinders.

As for the shed ... I've been kicking around the idea for a while.  Now that I have fresh paint, and some free time ... Looks like a tractor shed will be one of my next projects.

TRG

Nah. It sounds like a good place to raise boys who will become men.

Those squishy orange things?

My daughter fed a bunch to our chickens yesterday.

Awesome. If only all the Americans who were born here were as excited about being Americans.

I agree.  The Oath was impressive as well.

I recall thinking ... "whoa...I wouldn't agree to all that myself..."

TRG

New 'one-wire' alternator installed.  There was an existing bracket, but the alternator (the old one) was vibrating a lot.  Found out that a bolt had come loose from the original mounting.  Replaced the alternator, replaced the missing bolt and added in a wedge to align it properly.

The wiring on the tractor had been set up to run through a voltage regulator, so I decided to pop the cover on the alternator and plug in the system to the voltage regulator.

Installed new fuel lines and an inline filter.  No more leaks.

Fired up the tractor and the amp-meter showed 20 amps charge.  w00t.

Tractor still seems to be running less enthusiastically under a load (5' tiller, medium wet grass sod).  It's not kicking up the RPMs enough and seems to have slight miss.  At full throttle, under load, it seems to be struggling to maintain a level and deep rhythm.

Tomorrow I will pull plugs and check to see if there is an issue there with bad plugs.  I'll check the distributor as well for corrosion.

This far in to it .. I'll probably just replace the plugs, wires and distributor.

All gauges are functioning now.  Oil pressure is only 20lbs, but steady.  New alternator seems to take only a minute or so to completely charge the battery after a cold start.

Still seems to be a voltage loss when the tractor is off.  Amp-meter showed -10 with the motor off and battery connected.  Once the battery was disconnected it showed -3 (margin of mechanical error in gauge I'm sure).  That's going to be tough to locate without just wiring everything over from start to finish.

TRG

Did I catch you bypassed a sediment bowl type filter with the in-line filter?  Or added the in-line with a sediment bowl?  I'm guessing a gravity feed system?  If so, double check the filter you installed as being o.k. for gravity feed system.  If this problem just cropped up, you may have lost some fuel flow with the in-line filter.  

I've seen it happen may times with the Farmalls.  Hate to throw extra parts at it if not needed.

Fuel filter did not add a flow issue.  I used a small inline and I've used it before on things like the tiller and a generator.  Oliver doesn't draw a large volume with the gravity fed carb.  It just needs a trickle.

So ... I did install some new plugs.  Not that the old plugs were terribad, but, and easy thing to check off the list of issues.  Tractor had been running fine last year, prior to the waterlogged carb, so my brain kept saying "carb..."

But, new plugs to replace these: In order from front cylinder to rear...







Not perfect plugs, but nothing that should have explained the loafing speeds.  New plug wires as well.  Cleaned points.  Cleaned rotor.  

Did some more Googling and there is a known issue with the govenor and the lack of throttle response.  I first ran some B12 through the carb at idle for an hour to loosen any possible gunk.  But, kept thinking it was going to be a flake of rust in a jet.

Did some troubleshooting and the govenor was not the issue.  Manipulated the throttle manually and still had lagging and loafing.

Tore carb apart again and found some restrictions in the draft tube.  Cleaned, scrubbed, sprayed, cleaned... felt good about it.

Put the carb back on and hit the key.

VROOOOOOOOOOoooooOOMMMMMMM!! BANNNNNNGG!

Before I could move the throttle down, or adjust the carb (load needle was open too far causing high idle) something flew under the hood and I killed the tractor.

This is the end-result:

Bent fan blade.  Leaking radiator.



Hole in the radiator:



Holes top and bottom:





A blade separated from the fan:



That small strip of gray is the only metal that is 'new'.  The rest is the old, hidden, crack.



So, when the tractor fired up, with the clean carb, it went to full power (load needle open too far) and that centrifugal force broke the blade throwing it around inside the shroud.  At least 5 holes in the bottom, many more up top.

I found a fan, spacer, and water pump for 80.00 shipped on Ebay.  I have not found an after market fan of any type for less.  I haven't found any for a super 55.

As things develop ... i will see if the radiator can be reasonably re-cored.  If not, I'll cut tubes and solder.

A replacement radiator is 400+

TRG

If you look at the holes, some of that is missing material from a previous owner's repair and solder.  Oddly. my fan breaking seems to have hit in the same area.

Oliver did have different fans, but, this "x" fan is not the same as the "+" shaped fan that I am buying.  Makes me wonder if a previous fan also broke.

TRG

Man that's how it goes.  When it rains it pours.  Sounds like you fixed the power issue

Ayup.

Told the wife, "Good news!  I fired it up and it went to full power, sheared a fan blade and blew a hole in the radiator!"  

"How is that good news?!"

"Well, I fixed the power issue...."

TRG

lol well you fixed it

 

Exactly!

TRG

  <---  the look on your face i bet lol



 

Ouch!!  At least the blade didn't come flying out and cause any bodily injury.

If you are forced to buy a new radiator, double check country of origin. The Chinese replacements are of questionable quality and fit.  The radiators out of Ireland are a much better choice.  Looks like they do have some Oliver/White choices.  Should be able to find someone selling them over here.  Maybe even on Ebay.  

Clancy Radiators Ltd.

Thanks for the tips.

I looked at the Oliver listings, none match mine, but, I'll keep them in mind as a 'just in case'.

TRG

Yup.

When it happened (run away engine followed by loud bang) my first thought was that the alternator I installed had somehow fallen/twisted loose from its mount.

The look on my face was not as pleasant.

TRG

If you're looking for parts for that Oliver, you'd do well to check with Maibach's. They are a new parts & equipment Agco dealer as well as an Oliver salvage yard. These guys bleed green and are the go-to guys for old Oliver parts. Many Agco dealers who will still supply Oliver parts get them from Maibach's. They have a number of obsolete items reproduced to keep these old tractors running. If it's Oliver and they can't get it, it probably isn't available anywhere.
Disclaimer - no affiliation other than being a happy customer and having a neighbor around the corner who works there.

I've got a deuce and a half radiator down at jarrets that might fit with a little redneck bracket fabrication...

If you care to look up the dimensions, it's a radiator for an LDT-465.

Those were multifuel engines made by White, Hercules, and Continental.   And I believe White even made a tractor that they put those multifuel engines on for awhile.

Thanks for the offer.  IM sent.

I am going to try and see if I can keep the original and possibly re-core it.  If not, I'm going to try and solder it.

TRG

How much for a new toe?

I can get you a toe.  Believe me, you don't want to know how, but I can get you one.   With nail polish.

Careful, I think that's his kicking foot for posts like that^

I will trade toes with you.



 
 

srsly...



TRG

I LOLed!!!!!  

When you ain't looking ... I am going to rub my hammer-toe lovingly up your shin.

TRG

OMG

toetally disgusted, yet strangely aroused.

Nailed it

and quick...

TRG

I think his tinkering has got him in a jam.

nailed it

Show us your new club foot.

TRG

Took the radiator to a local guy.  Sign says "Best place in town to take a leak."

He was optimistic about being able to repair the damage. He quoted 40 for the job, and 65 if it was more work than it looked to be.

Sadly, after about 2 hours he called me.  Could not get the radiator to stop leaking.  Working to fix one leak caused another to open.  The option to remove tubs would mean almost a 30% of the tubes would be pulled.  Maybe more.

It just wasn't going to reasonable to expect it to stop leaking or cool the water enough if that many cores were pulled.

So ... quote of 300 for the core, 150 labor.  Core is coming from Dallas tomorrow and will be about 30% more surface area for cooling.  Full warranty on the radiator and labor.  Finding an after-market replacement (with the warnings here about quality issues) this looks like the only real solution.  I haven't found a salvage, original, radiator on the webs.

Radiator guy does mufflers too, so he and I are going to engineer a new muffler pipe as well.

TRG