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Excellent thread. I am enjoying reading about it. May have to try this in the future
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gotta ask, not counting your classes how much did it cost for those two suppers?
also do you have a link to a place I can find classes like that? |
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gotta ask, not counting your classes how much did it cost for those two suppers? also do you have a link to a place I can find classes like that? I buy a Deep Hive body kit (body, frames, foundation, inner cover, roof, frame rests and hardware) for $95 each. The additional second story (body, frames, foundation, frame rests and hardware) are $42. each. Check with your state Apiarist or here for a local beekeeping society. Hope this helps. |
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how much were the box of bees and such? Look one post above yours |
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how much were the box of bees and such? I paid $100. for a 5 frame Nuc (two pictured on page 1 of this thread). I think you can get a "box of bees" (no frames/honey/larvae/eggs etc) for around $65. plus $20-25 shipping. A nuc will get your bees productive much quicker. |
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Just picked up materials for classed at the State Fair. I might be hooked.
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Im loving this thread! Makes me wanna go start up a hive!
Not sure how those little buggers would do in an area like mine with a decent amount of wind |
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Im loving this thread! Makes me wanna go start up a hive! Not sure how those little buggers would do in an area like mine with a decent amount of wind IIRC - there is some (small?) intrusion of Africanized honey bees in CO. You may want to ask your local beekeeping group or agricultural extension agent's apiary inspector. |
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Great thread! I appreciate you directing me here. I have 6 1/2 acres in an isolated area, but we seem to have a problem with africanized bees here. Do you have any pics of the honey harvest? This has fascinated me since I watched Ulee's Gold.
Thanks for taking the time. |
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I've seen a lot of good information on this site, but I am absolutely loving this thread. Many thanks CWO.
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I have a really stupid question.
Other than the honey, why keep bees? |
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Are the bees wintering well? If so, how can you tell? GM I put sugar boards (a hard sugar "board" poured into a form the exact size of the hive footprint) in for the winter about 2 months ago. Last Saturday it was a warm 49 degrees and both hives had 100 or so bees crawling around the front of the hive, others taking cleaning flights (taking out the trash) and some buzzing around the garden. Based upon the groups at each entrance - they are fine. I don't want to open the hive in winter to avoid chilling them and breaking the seals they have made at seams. |
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Great thread! I appreciate you directing me here. I have 6 1/2 acres in an isolated area, but we seem to have a problem with africanized bees here. Do you have any pics of the honey harvest? This has fascinated me since I watched Ulee's Gold. Thanks for taking the time. I will post pics in 2011 of the honey harvest and the extraction process. |
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I have a really stupid question. Other than the honey, why keep bees? I enjoy tending to them - and I have an extensive garden that they pollinate well. I also enjoy learning to do new things. |
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So....have you ever pulled some comb out and gone all "Homer Simpson" on it? You know, nom nom nom nom!
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Quoted: Quoted: I have a really stupid question. Other than the honey, why keep bees? I enjoy tending to them - and I have an extensive garden that they pollinate well. I also enjoy learning to do new things. Very cool man, thanks! |
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Why don't there seem to be any larvae in the upper frames you're taking pictures of? Do the bees not carry them that high?
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Why don't there seem to be any larvae in the upper frames you're taking pictures of? Do the bees not carry them that high? I had a queen excluder on. |
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So....have you ever pulled some comb out and gone all "Homer Simpson" on it? You know, nom nom nom nom! I did that with some burr comb a few weeks after installing the hive. It was Tulip Poplar honey - and was delicious! |
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So....have you ever pulled some comb out and gone all "Homer Simpson" on it? You know, nom nom nom nom! I did that with some burr comb a few weeks after installing the hive. It was Tulip Poplar honey - and was delicious! Nice! |
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Why don't there seem to be any larvae in the upper frames you're taking pictures of? Do the bees not carry them that high? I had a queen excluder on. So the queen puts the larvae into the comb herself? I had imagined it like ants where the workers carry the larvae around. |
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Why don't there seem to be any larvae in the upper frames you're taking pictures of? Do the bees not carry them that high? I had a queen excluder on. So the queen puts the larvae into the comb herself? I had imagined it like ants where the workers carry the larvae around. She directly lays an egg into each comb. |
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Time to refill sugar water buckets during the nectar dearth. If you ever wondered what it looks like to open the hive's cover: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/Eyesofsilver/Beekeeping/2010/IMG_3279.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/Eyesofsilver/Beekeeping/2010/IMG_3280.jpg Second hive: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/Eyesofsilver/Beekeeping/2010/IMG_3281.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/Eyesofsilver/Beekeeping/2010/IMG_3282.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/Eyesofsilver/Beekeeping/2010/IMG_3284.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/Eyesofsilver/Beekeeping/2010/IMG_3285.jpg They will empty these half-full buckets in about 3-4 days and I'll refill every 7 days. Those are gorgeous hives, CWO. Looks like you're doing a wonderful job for your bees. Do they bother you when you're working your garden? |
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I have a really stupid question. Other than the honey, why keep bees? For pollination. If you grow fruit, you will reap better fruit harvests if you have bees. ETA: Woops. I see that CWO already answered this. I scanned the thread and thought he'd missed it. I used to have apples the size of tangerines. Now they're the size of the ones in the grocery store. The only difference is the bees. |
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Time to refill sugar water buckets during the nectar dearth. If you ever wondered what it looks like to open the hive's cover: Those are gorgeous hives, CWO. Looks like you're doing a wonderful job for your bees. Do they bother you when you're working your garden? I was taught to move slowly, stay relaxed, smoke appropriately and be smooth in my movements. I also avoid blocking the entrance. That advice has done well for me and I've had no problems. They are Italians - out of a Hawaiian breeder. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I have a really stupid question. Other than the honey, why keep bees? For pollination. If you grow fruit, you will reap better fruit harvests if you have bees. ETA: Woops. I see that CWO already answered this. I scanned the thread and thought he'd missed it. I used to have apples the size of tangerines. Now they're the size of the ones in the grocery store. The only difference is the bees. This is great because I'm going to have fruit trees. |
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I have never had any interest in keeping bees until this thread. I am inspired.
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Time to refill sugar water buckets during the nectar dearth. If you ever wondered what it looks like to open the hive's cover: Those are gorgeous hives, CWO. Looks like you're doing a wonderful job for your bees. Do they bother you when you're working your garden? I was taught to move slowly, stay relaxed, smoke appropriately and be smooth in my movements. I also avoid blocking the entrance. That advice has done well for me and I've had no problems. They are Italians - out of a Hawaiian breeder. I was taught to do this when working my bees as well, and it works for me. However I am unwilling to do this while gardening, so I'd be screwed. I have not put my bees next to my veggie garden for this reason. I love the look of it though––and you're already cultivating that land, so no worries with keeping weeds down and such. If the weather will break a bit here, I'll remulch around my remaining hive and try to get their area in shape for spring (crossing fingers they make it, as I did not feed this fall). |
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Im loving this thread! Makes me wanna go start up a hive! Not sure how those little buggers would do in an area like mine with a decent amount of wind I didn't see a specific answer to this, so I'll chime in with what I've learned. Lots of bees do fine in Colorado. It will pay to place them where they have a windbreak on the side where most wind comes from. On the sunny southeast side of an outbuilding, perhaps. They always benefit from a windbreak, and would do so even more in an area with constant or frequent high winds. |
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this is a great thread. very informative in a simple way. Thanks for all your hard work and effort on this.
I have wanted to start some bees, but not sure if the city of Tampa will allow hives in the city limits. Hopefully i can find an answer on the Beemaster forum. Can't wait to see how your hives weather this brutal winter everyone is experiencing. Even freezing temps for days at a time in Tampa...3rd freeze this winter alone. Unheard of. |
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Would it be possible to keep a single hive on an area of residential property, say a 1/4 acre size?
I've got around 13 fruit trees on my lot that I'd like to make sure get good pollination. Main concern lay with seven of the trees which are a variety of cherry trees that should all come into bloom relatively close to one another. I am on a corner lot and would place the hive in an area of my yard putting it closest to the street corner, farthest from neighboring houses, and it would be the least disturbed area of the yard. Shade would be provided by both a fence to the immediate east followed by a fence to the immediate south and a tree to the immediate west. It would only get north facing sun for maybe 4-5 hours of the day during spring time. Not sure how the things take to heat but I am southern San Joaquin valley and temps can hit 100+ by the end of may. Maybe the answer is to try to get a beekeeper to just move a hive in for 2-3 weeks during the blooming season for the trees? |
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Would it be possible to keep a single hive on an area of residential property, say a 1/4 acre size? I've got around 13 fruit trees on my lot that I'd like to make sure get good pollination. Main concern lay with seven of the trees which are a variety of cherry trees that should all come into bloom relatively close to one another. I am on a corner lot and would place the hive in an area of my yard putting it closest to the street corner, farthest from neighboring houses, and it would be the least disturbed area of the yard. Shade would be provided by both a fence to the immediate east followed by a fence to the immediate south and a tree to the immediate west. It would only get north facing sun for maybe 4-5 hours of the day during spring time. Not sure how the things take to heat but I am southern San Joaquin valley and temps can hit 100+ by the end of may. Maybe the answer is to try to get a beekeeper to just move a hive in for 2-3 weeks during the blooming season for the trees? Personally - I wouldn't keep bees just to do 2-3 weeks of pollination on a dozen trees. Do you have wild honeybees? Have you had pollination problems? If yes to the later - make sure that you have a clear understanding of the pollination requirements of those specific varieties. Some fruit trees have very specific requirements that bees cannot substantially improve upon until the plant basics are met. You can keep bees on a quarter acre. Just make sure that the landing zone isn't across the property line and that you meet any local zoning requirements. A local beekeeper can help you with the latter. The smaller the property the more you need to be aware of bee's needs. If they don't have water on your property - the neighbor may find 50-100 honeybees gathered around their pool/pond/water feature getting a drink in hot weather. This can be disconcerting - especially if they have kids. You can solve this (mostly) by having water near the hive - but you need to make sure it is filled. A hive will do better if it has more than 4-5 hours of sun each day. |
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The smaller the property the more you need to be aware of bee's needs. If they don't have water on your property - the neighbor may find 50-100 honeybees gathered around their pool/pond/water feature getting a drink in hot weather. This can be disconcerting - especially if they have kids. You can solve this (mostly) by having water near the hive - but you need to make sure it is filled. This weekend's project is to lay down my liner for what is going to be a 15x25 ft pond that wouldn't be more than 15 feet away from the location of where I'd want the hive. A hive will do better if it has more than 4-5 hours of sun each day. That would be a relatively easy thing for me to fix. Just didn't know if the boxes have to stay out of the hottest part of the day's sun due to concerns over turning the box into an oven. |
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A hive will do better if it has more than 4-5 hours of sun each day. That would be a relatively easy thing for me to fix. Just didn't know if the boxes have to stay out of the hottest part of the day's sun due to concerns over turning the box into an oven. I would confer with a local beekeeper on that local question. Unless you have former experience - you'll want to take a local class or at least get a mentor to show you the ropes. Having someone who can visit your hives if you have a problem is valuable. |
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Good thread CWO, appreciate the time you took posting. I'm mailing the check Monday for a bee school here in March. In September I planted 2.5 of my 20 acres in blueberries (2,480 plants) for a pick you own operation. I will be stripping the blooms this spring to encourage root growth and plant establishment. I am planning on having bees in 2012. Looking forward to you extraction pictures.
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Thank you for taking the time to share this experience. I've found it very interesting and it inspired me enough to pick up a copy of BeeKeeping for Dummies. How often do you check on the hive, what are the maintenance requirements?
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Thank you for taking the time to share this experience. I've found it very interesting and it inspired me enough to pick up a copy of BeeKeeping for Dummies. How often do you check on the hive, what are the maintenance requirements? The rule of thumb is to not open a hive more than once weekly in warm weather - and not at all below 50F. In warm weather I follow the rule and do quick visual inspections to see what the bees are doing, make sure the queen is laying and that the pattern is good, check hive health, look for pests or other issues, feed when needed and look at the population. After you do it a number of times you can do this fairly quickly with relatively little disturbance. Opening a hive disturbs the colony and sets it back in production roughly 3 days each time - so you don't open it unless you need to. The hive will in time need to have hive bodies/honey supers added to keep up with growth and the harvest. This is beekeeping class time of year. I strongly recommend classes and some field experience to get a good feel for beekeeping. For a second book I recommend The Beekeeper's Handbook by Sammataro and Avitabile. I'm glad you found the thread to be inspiring! CWO |
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Glad your bees came through the winter successfully!
Those look great! We don't insulate here. That's interesting. kitties |
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I'm getting interested in this, even though I've seen many bees in/around our gardens. I believe there is a beekeeper down the road from me. Might have to stop in and have a chat.
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CWO,
Just re-read this post and still love it. Glad your bee's made it through the winter. Can you tell me where you buy your hive bodies so cheap. I found an apiary in the next county that has NUCs for $ 80 each, but the hive kits and shipping are running close to 400 for 6 bodies. Look forward to future posts. |
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Quoted: CWO, Just re-read this post and still love it. Glad your bee's made it through the winter. Can you tell me where you buy your hive bodies so cheap. I found an apiary in the next county that has NUCs for $ 80 each, but the hive kits and shipping are running close to 400 for 6 bodies. Look forward to future posts. If you check my recent post in the other beekeeping thread - I have started to use Mann Lake Ltd. as a source. I just bought a bunch of nucs from them - which were the cheapest on the web, shipped fast AND (the kicker) shipped free. Shipping is the killer on woodware. It can double the cost of the item. I just ordered 8-9 hive bodies/supers from Mann Lake and will update when I receive them (should be this week?). If that shipment goes well - then I'm on the Mann Lake bandwagon - because free shipping is hard to beat. (NOTE: I just learned that Mann Lake only offers free shipping twice a year: "They seem to do this twice a year…spring and fall, the two times a year when everybody is ordering replacement or new woodenware." ) (Note 2: Mann Lake is ending free shipping on MARCH 30 ! !) I will also add to this thread the assembly of nucs and hive bodies - just because someone asked for it a long time ago after I had already assembled my hives. As long as folks are getting value from the thread - I'll keep adding to it. I am going to include swarm trapping this year (fingers crossed) and possibly splits (making a new colony from an established one). So if you are getting benefit from the thread - let me know! |
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