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Originally Posted By medicmandan:
They look great going into winter. Very low mite count. Inspector said don't worry about treating in the fall. They had two full supers of honey (which are still mostly full). I wrapped the hive in tar paper. They are on the east side of my house just behind the fence and against the house so they are well sheltered from the wind. Box was tipped forward and I had a 1" hole in the upper super to help with ventilation. View Quote I don't know what your winters are like but I would imagine that insulation on the inner cover (1"-2") of foam board would help them a lot. Other than that, you did just about everything right IMHO. I am not a big fan of tar paper as it only provides thermal gain from the sun. It does nothing to keep the hive insulated from extreme temperature swings. Many people have success with it but many do not. |
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By Skunkape71:
Been a busy morning..... 2nd treatment of OAV this morning before the wind got up too much... Glad I did; winds at 20 gusting @ 30 now.. After I got that done, took some shots for grade for the new honey house/shop building.. I'm building a new 30x50 pole barn. Wife is running me and the woodware out of the garage! After that, made 3 new hive stands. 2 for the house, one for a friends place, as they're letting me use their property as an outyard. Mann Lake order came in this week. Need to start putting 30 supers and 200 frames together. I'm already dreading the painting! need to get swarm traps ready too, now that I think about it.. Anyway, that's what's going on here today. Season is right around the corner, and it's time to get on the ball! Hopefully with the new shop, I'll be able to work on my projects through the winter, and won't be burning the midnight oil trying to stay ahead of the game. Why do I always wait so long?! Looking forward to a good bee season! View Quote Wow! Excellent productive day! Making me gaze longingly toward my little building full of woodenware. |
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
|
On the last page, Medicmandan posted photos of his hive. They were too small to get detail, so I'm hosting them on Fototime and posting them here so y'all can see and help him make decisions.
He had some questions in his original post Here are the larger photos of Medicmandan's hive: If you need a bigger view of anything, let me know. I resized the pics a little smaller to save bandwidth. |
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Thank you.
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
On the last page, Medicmandan posted photos of his hive. They were too small to get detail, so I'm hosting them on Fototime and posting them here so y'all can see and help him make decisions. He had some questions in his original post Here are the larger photos of Medicmandan's hive: http://www.fototime.com/CC478B399BEFFF1/standard.jpg http://www.fototime.com/7814D636199DA25/standard.jpg http://www.fototime.com/CE64D2879A5206D/standard.jpg http://www.fototime.com/9D80305D4C943DE/standard.jpg http://www.fototime.com/CAC5C5980A78E4C/standard.jpg http://www.fototime.com/6842533A850E960/standard.jpg http://www.fototime.com/691ACEF72F5E448/standard.jpg http://www.fototime.com/847EB99B59A8C1C/standard.jpg http://www.fototime.com/FE7310F025BBB4E/standard.jpgIf you need a bigger view of anything, let me know. I resized the pics a little smaller to save bandwidth. View Quote Judging by those pictures, I would say that they starved. The first picture indicates that they either had Dysentary or Nosema Apis. It can only be confirmed with a microscope but if bees defecate on the top bars, that is a sign of Nosema. The last photo shows bees head first in the comb which is caused by starvation. One of my hives died and the cluster was only two inches away from honey. It happens |
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Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
Judging by those pictures, I would say that they starved. The first picture indicates that they either had Dysentary or Nosema Apis. It can only be confirmed with a microscope but if bees defecate on the top bars, that is a sign of Nosema. The last photo shows bees head first in the comb which is caused by starvation. One of my hives died and the cluster was only two inches away from honey. It happens View Quote Those 6-12 bees were the only ones in the cells. There was plenty of honey in both boxes. Maybe a cold snap prevented them from moving to it? The lack of dead bees is still puzzling me. If they starved, where did the rest go? I though that might be nosema as well but it is only in that one spot. The pics I have seen show it more widespread throughout the box. |
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Originally Posted By medicmandan:
Those 6-12 bees were the only ones in the cells. There was plenty of honey in both boxes. Maybe a cold snap prevented them from moving to it? The lack of dead bees is still puzzling me. If they starved, where did the rest go? I though that might be nosema as well but it is only in that one spot. The pics I have seen show it more widespread throughout the box. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By medicmandan:
Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
Judging by those pictures, I would say that they starved. The first picture indicates that they either had Dysentary or Nosema Apis. It can only be confirmed with a microscope but if bees defecate on the top bars, that is a sign of Nosema. The last photo shows bees head first in the comb which is caused by starvation. One of my hives died and the cluster was only two inches away from honey. It happens Those 6-12 bees were the only ones in the cells. There was plenty of honey in both boxes. Maybe a cold snap prevented them from moving to it? The lack of dead bees is still puzzling me. If they starved, where did the rest go? I though that might be nosema as well but it is only in that one spot. The pics I have seen show it more widespread throughout the box. |
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Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
Yes, the bees can still starve even though there is plenty of honey nearby. Like you stated, a cold snap can prevent them from moving over even an inch or two to get to the needed stores. I see dead bees on the bottom board. Don't forget that the winter cluster is much smaller and many bees die outside of the hive over the course of the fall/ winter. Some have just reached the end of their life cycle and some during cleansing flights cannot make it back to the hive. As for the Nosema, if they are defecating inside of the hive at all, there is a good chance that they have either Dysentary or Nosema Apis. Was the spore count enough to kill them? Without getting them tested, it is impossible to tell. I know that you mentioned that your inspector said it was not necessary to treat for Varroa in the fall but out of curiosity, what led him to make that statement? Did you do a count in the fall? I treated all of my hives in August- Sept and had a few hives that seemed to just breed mites during October. They all got a follow up treatment as a result. We had a very warm fall which would lead the queen to keep rearing brood later into the season. This would aid in the explosion of the mite population. We also had a very dry summer here which led to plants not giving off a lot of nectar which also stressed the bees. View Quote We did a count in September and he said it was low enough I wouldn't need to treat. We also had a very warm fall. It didn't drop below 50 until mid-November so maybe that contributed to a growing mite population. I will be sure to treat this year. I'm ordering a vaporizer off of ebay and will treat with oxalic acid. Someone else mentioned I should switch to a screened bottom board. I bought from a local bee supply place and they recommended the solid bottom board. There seem to be as many opinions on setups and processes as there are beekeepers. Lessons learned for this year. I will be more aggressive with mite treatments. I have found a few better ways to insulate the hive as well. Hopefully with the drawn foundation and honey/pollen stores I can provide the new package they will get off to a strong start. |
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Originally Posted By medicmandan:
We did a count in September and he said it was low enough I wouldn't need to treat. We also had a very warm fall. It didn't drop below 50 until mid-November so maybe that contributed to a growing mite population. I will be sure to treat this year. I'm ordering a vaporizer off of ebay and will treat with oxalic acid. Someone else mentioned I should switch to a screened bottom board. I bought from a local bee supply place and they recommended the solid bottom board. There seem to be as many opinions on setups and processes as there are beekeepers. Lessons learned for this year. I will be more aggressive with mite treatments. I have found a few better ways to insulate the hive as well. Hopefully with the drawn foundation and honey/pollen stores I can provide the new package they will get off to a strong start. View Quote You may find that if you have a warm fall that the mites seem to make a huge comeback in September and October. I don't know what evaporator you plan on purchasing but I highly recommend the Varrox as it is very well built and it is able to be dipped in water to cool it off between hives making treatments a little faster. I have used the Varrox for two years now with no complaints. This season I purchased a LEGA vaporizer that goes on the end of a heat gun as treatments only take about 20 seconds per hive. I have and use some screened bottom boards but will be phasing them out as I don't think they are helping any with regards to over wintering bees. In fact all of the hives that I have lost this season (3) as of today all had screened bottom boards. Coincidence??? Any resources that you can give the new package will help. Save some frames of drawn comb in case you want to make a split later on in the season. |
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Everybody's bees doing okay?
We've had a severe cold snap here. Down to 18 at night, and that's after a very warm middle-to-end of last month. Yo yo is normal for us in Kentucky, but that's a hard freeze after most people's bees (around here) have likely started brood production. |
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
Everybody's bees doing okay? We've had a severe cold snap here. Down to 18 at night, and that's after a very warm middle-to-end of last month. Yo yo is normal for us in Kentucky, but that's a hard freeze after most people's bees (around here) have likely started brood production. View Quote I agree that these temperature swings are bad. If they have started rearing brood and it gets really cold, that brood is done. Lots of bees breaking cluster to keep brood warm will not end well. |
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I have a question for the "hive" concerning treatment free beekeeping. Many people seem to be wanting to go TF and while I somewhat understand the logic behind this, I want to know what constitutes treatment free to you? If someone made up a nucleus hive with a queen grafted from their breeder queen and the brood in that nucleus hive was of the grafted queens heritage and they were not treated, would that be enough? I have seen a lot of people asking for TF bees and I'm wondering what that means to some of you? As a seller, I do treat and am very honest with people about what I do and what I use as I cannot afford to lose my bees. I am not going to cater to the TF Beekeepers and in all honesty am apprehensive selling to them as they are not going to treat and will probably lose their bees.
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
I have a question for the "hive" concerning treatment free beekeeping. Many people seem to be wanting to go TF and while I somewhat understand the logic behind this, I want to know what constitutes treatment free to you? If someone made up a nucleus hive with a queen grafted from their breeder queen and the brood in that nucleus hive was of the grafted queens heritage and they were not treated, would that be enough? I have seen a lot of people asking for TF bees and I'm wondering what that means to some of you? As a seller, I do treat and am very honest with people about what I do and what I use as I cannot afford to lose my bees. I am not going to cater to the TF Beekeepers and in all honesty am apprehensive selling to them as they are not going to treat and will probably lose their bees. View Quote I do not consider powdered sugar to be a treatment. I do not consider the dead ancestors (or the not-dead ancestors) of the honey-producing bees to be a factor in whether my "current" bees are treatment free or not, *technically." However those ancestors do play a role, and here's why: I think you cannot please these people, because mostly they don't know what they're asking for. *I* however believe I do know what they're asking for. They're asking for bees that can survive without treatment because they HAVE survived to this point without treatment. Those people are not going to get that. At least not right away, because not enough established beekeepers have been taking the treatment free route. I have friends who have successful, long-running apiaries which have been completely treatment-free for more than ten years now. My most successful friend at this "treatment free" thing went into it knowing he would take his losses, and selecting for the genetics that could survive without the treatment. His attitude is "if they can't survive, then they don't fit my program." It has worked for him. He's been smart and done it carefully and managed his bees intensively and well. He built slowly, with genetics that could survive, which is more in line with the way nature would have selected the bees, and to me, this is the only truly treatment free methodology. It is also our only hope for the long-term future IMO, because when you look at the bigger picture, nothing else makes any logical sense. There is nothing else presently available that we KNOW is truly sustainable over the long term. kind of like bringing in an appealing new species and spreading the seed all over seemed like such a good idea, and now we will be fighting Kudzu and Johnsongrass and their ilk for the rest of our lives, and we may well lose biologically important habitat because of it. Do I believe the planet is adaptable? Yes. I do. It's part of my fundamental belief system. Do I believe the mindsets of most current day methodologies is short-sighted? Yes. I do. And I believe we may pay for that down the road. But back to the no-treatment thing.... most beekeepers are not willing to go through that, take those losses and be in it for the long-term survival of bees and beekeeping. I won't either,when I get my next bees. I'll try to walk the best line I can between avoiding the big bad chemicals that we already know build resistant pests, and keeping my bees alive. Wow, this turned into a rant, and I didn't mean for it to. Basically the "I want treatment free bees" people...I don't think they know what they are asking for, and even if they did, it's not out there. Not enough of it, anyhow. |
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
I have a question for the "hive" concerning treatment free beekeeping. Many people seem to be wanting to go TF and while I somewhat understand the logic behind this, I want to know what constitutes treatment free to you? If someone made up a nucleus hive with a queen grafted from their breeder queen and the brood in that nucleus hive was of the grafted queens heritage and they were not treated, would that be enough? I have seen a lot of people asking for TF bees and I'm wondering what that means to some of you? As a seller, I do treat and am very honest with people about what I do and what I use as I cannot afford to lose my bees. I am not going to cater to the TF Beekeepers and in all honesty am apprehensive selling to them as they are not going to treat and will probably lose their bees. View Quote I have tried to go treatment free. I started with two hives and made a split off of those getting me to three. I left one with my XGF and kept two. The decedents of one of those hives is my only surviving nuc. Assuming they survived the cold snap this past week. The four packages I started last year all died off. So I'm running a survivability of .5/6 . Not a good record at all. But, that nuc - which was once a hive - has never seen a treatment. I love the idea of treatment free bees. I don't think I can continue that path as it's too costly for me to lose my stock each year. Sorry for the ramble - don't know if I answered your question or not. |
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Know Guns, Know Peace, Know Safety...No Guns, No Peace, No Safety
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Originally Posted By Hanz:
I'm guessing the potential customers mean bees that haven't been exposed to chemicals. I don't think they care about the bees ancestors - just the bees they are purchasing. That being said - I have heard of "Hygienic" bees which, if I understand the term correctly, these bees have a bred in resistance to varroa mites and other common ailments/problems. Maybe that's what the folks are asking about? I have tried to go treatment free. I started with two hives and made a split off of those getting me to three. I left one with my XGF and kept two. The decedents of one of those hives is my only surviving nuc. Assuming they survived the cold snap this past week. The four packages I started last year all died off. So I'm running a survivability of .5/6 . Not a good record at all. But, that nuc - which was once a hive - has never seen a treatment. I love the idea of treatment free bees. I don't think I can continue that path as it's too costly for me to lose my stock each year. Sorry for the ramble - don't know if I answered your question or not. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Hanz:
Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
I have a question for the "hive" concerning treatment free beekeeping. Many people seem to be wanting to go TF and while I somewhat understand the logic behind this, I want to know what constitutes treatment free to you? If someone made up a nucleus hive with a queen grafted from their breeder queen and the brood in that nucleus hive was of the grafted queens heritage and they were not treated, would that be enough? I have seen a lot of people asking for TF bees and I'm wondering what that means to some of you? As a seller, I do treat and am very honest with people about what I do and what I use as I cannot afford to lose my bees. I am not going to cater to the TF Beekeepers and in all honesty am apprehensive selling to them as they are not going to treat and will probably lose their bees. I have tried to go treatment free. I started with two hives and made a split off of those getting me to three. I left one with my XGF and kept two. The decedents of one of those hives is my only surviving nuc. Assuming they survived the cold snap this past week. The four packages I started last year all died off. So I'm running a survivability of .5/6 . Not a good record at all. But, that nuc - which was once a hive - has never seen a treatment. I love the idea of treatment free bees. I don't think I can continue that path as it's too costly for me to lose my stock each year. Sorry for the ramble - don't know if I answered your question or not. Yes, you and Kitties have both answered my question. I am interested in what you think constitutes treatment free and you answered that. As far as the hygienic bees or VSH queens , I have done some research on them and it seems that although they have come a long way, it is simply not good enough. The hygienic behavior of these bees is promising but they simply cannot keep up with the mites during the late summer early fall when the mites are out breeding the bees by a large margin. As Kitties pointed out and I have discussed before, people that use chemical treatments and do not follow the label are creating mites that are becoming resistant to these chemicals. I have no problem using whatever I have in the toolbox to keep varroa under control as I cannot afford to lose bees. A few people up here decided to go treatment free and lost all of their bees. Without having evidence that their bees display hygienic traits, they should have expected nothing less. This last fall the weather was warmer than usual following a drought and an extended dearth. It was a really hard year for honeybees in this area. I cannot tell you what to do with your bees but if I where you, I would monitor your mite loads with either a powdered sugar roll or alcohol wash and if the mite loads are high, I would treat. The problem is not the mites themselves, it is the diseases and other problems that they vector in. |
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I've spent time looking and I've never seen a single varroa mite on one of my bees last year. I know that sounds impossible. I did lose most of my hives but I don't think varroa played a roll. I've never claimed to know what I'm doing but I know I didn't see any mites. I was thinking of treating prophylactically this year (assuming I don't see any mites again) because I don't want to lose anymore bees.
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Know Guns, Know Peace, Know Safety...No Guns, No Peace, No Safety
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Originally Posted By Hanz:
I've spent time looking and I've never seen a single varroa mite on one of my bees last year. I know that sounds impossible. I did lose most of my hives but I don't think varroa played a roll. I've never claimed to know what I'm doing but I know I didn't see any mites. I was thinking of treating prophylactically this year (assuming I don't see any mites again) because I don't want to lose anymore bees. View Quote |
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
do you have screened or solid bottom boards? If screened, you can pull the coroplast out and look to see if you see mites. If you have solid bottom boards, you can trim a piece of coroplast or get a political sign and place it on top of the bottom board. This will allow you to inspect for mites as many will fall into the bottom board. Sugar rolls are effective at releasing them from the bees and you can count how many are in the sugar pretty easily. Alcohol washes are also very effective but you will kill the 300 or so bees that you need to get a good count. I would not treat without knowing that you have a problem. View Quote |
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
I use screened bottom boards. I have pulled them and looked for mites. I'll have to try the sugar method out for a varroa census.
My packages are about 3 weeks out! Time to start sifting through the equipment and getting it ready for new occupants. |
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Know Guns, Know Peace, Know Safety...No Guns, No Peace, No Safety
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Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
I have a question for the "hive" concerning treatment free beekeeping. Many people seem to be wanting to go TF and while I somewhat understand the logic behind this, I want to know what constitutes treatment free to you? If someone made up a nucleus hive with a queen grafted from their breeder queen and the brood in that nucleus hive was of the grafted queens heritage and they were not treated, would that be enough? I have seen a lot of people asking for TF bees and I'm wondering what that means to some of you? As a seller, I do treat and am very honest with people about what I do and what I use as I cannot afford to lose my bees. I am not going to cater to the TF Beekeepers and in all honesty am apprehensive selling to them as they are not going to treat and will probably lose their bees. View Quote I lose the same amount of bees, no matter. I quit treating. Treatment free to me means "Good luck, here's a beetle trap with mineral oil in it". I have a very good friend who is a real side-liner and one who is very big and commercial, thousands of hives. The side-liner quit treating for the reasons I stated above. The commercial guy keeps trying everything he can. He makes 1500-2000 splits a year and has been losing ground for the past 4-5 years. The nucs our club buys are treated. The company says they cannot afford not to treat. The majority of the members/buyers are Monsanto hating granola eaters and they got over it. We move over $20k of nucs every spring from the same company. They were $135 this year. And last. |
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"A mass production economy can neither be created nor sustained
without a leveled population, one conditioned to mass habits, mass tastes, mass enthusiasms, predictable mass behaviors." John Gatto |
Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By HELOBRAVO:
We sell honey. I tried a few types or "organic" natural treatments over the last few years. I lose the same amount of bees, no matter. I quit treating. Treatment free to me means "Good luck, here's a beetle trap with mineral oil in it". I have a very good friend who is a real side-liner and one who is very big and commercial, thousands of hives. The side-liner quit treating for the reasons I stated above. The commercial guy keeps trying everything he can. He makes 1500-2000 splits a year and has been losing ground for the past 4-5 years. The nucs our club buys are treated. The company says they cannot afford not to treat. The majority of the members/buyers are Monsanto hating granola eaters and they got over it. We move over $20k of nucs every spring from the same company. They were $135 this year. And last. View Quote I can certainly say I'd like to not ingest pesticides along with my honey, but honestly that's not my main reason for interest in hygenic bees and genetics that can better withstand mites and disease. My interest is more esoteric. It's about the viability of bee populations in a world where we're breeding immune viruses, bacteria and bugs. |
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
HERE is a great article about Oxalic Acid and its effectiveness.
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Checked all of the hives today. I added more candy to all of them and started them on pollen substitute. They all look really good! Let's go spring...
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That last cold snap did it. My only surviving colony, a nuc, is no longer alive. Too many chores yesterday to see if they had brood they were covering. I'll likely look next weekend to see what I learn.
I alway feel that going through a dead hive is like looking at the victims of Pompeii in Italy. They seem to freeze in place. So sad. |
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Know Guns, Know Peace, Know Safety...No Guns, No Peace, No Safety
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Originally Posted By Hanz:
That last cold snap did it. My only surviving colony, a nuc, is no longer alive. Too many chores yesterday to see if they had brood they were covering. I'll likely look next weekend to see what I learn. I alway feel that going through a dead hive is like looking at the victims of Pompeii in Italy. They seem to freeze in place. So sad. View Quote Would you walk me through what you did for winter preparations? |
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Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
I am a BIG fan of insulating the hive for many reasons which I stated earlier in this thread. I use two one inch thick pieces of foam board insulation on top. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/294057/image-174139.jpg This is followed by wrapping the hive with either a Bee Cozy or foam insulation. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/294057/image-174140.jpg View Quote |
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A Nation of Sheep Breeds a Government of Wolves!!!
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Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
I like your process. Do you recommend the Cozy's? View Quote |
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Veteran of the Third Battle of Tannhauser Gate.
NM, USA
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Okay, fans, as sad as I am to hear of the misfortunes of others, I hope to leaven the bad news with good.
I opened my hive again for the 2nd time since winterizing it. I now have NINE full frames of mixed honey and brood! (I started late last spring with four frames!) And there are LOTS of bees, all crowded around and getting ready for summer. I have been seeing them return with pollen in their pouches for about 1 1/2 months now. We've had a very mild winter, with only a sprinkling of snow. This doesn't bode well for future flower growth, but the way the girls are bringing in the pollen, I'm not too worried right now. I opened the rest of the hive up, (I moved the divider ) as they'd almost filled up the 12 frame area I'd left them for winter. Question time: I'm seeing a lot of drone brood cells. These are capped yellow cells, like in the pics online. Is it too early in the season for drone brood, or are these drone brood getting ready to go out and par-tay? Seems they need to do this early in the season. How soon after they hatch do they go out and mate? I didn't see a lot of regular worker brood-- but I wasn't looking real hard, HobbitWife was taking the pictures, the bees covered the comb, and the lighting was poor. I'm guessing that the worker brood that the queen has laid recently has hatched, and she hasn't replenished them yet. Likewise I didn't spot the queen, either, but I didn't look very hard. I'll get some more pics soon but I have yard work to do (which mostly consists of bossing my teenaged son around). ETA We have a package of bees coming, plus a queen, in April or May! We will put the other top bar hive to work. |
Dont you know about sergeants?
Well... I'm learning. They dont have mothers. Just ask any trained private. They reproduce by fission... like all bacteria. |
Originally Posted By FrankSymptoms:
Okay, fans, as sad as I am to hear of the misfortunes of others, I hope to leaven the bad news with good. I opened my hive again for the 2nd time since winterizing it. I now have NINE full frames of mixed honey and brood! (I started late last spring with four frames!) And there are LOTS of bees, all crowded around and getting ready for summer. I have been seeing them return with pollen in their pouches for about 1 1/2 months now. We've had a very mild winter, with only a sprinkling of snow. This doesn't bode well for future flower growth, but the way the girls are bringing in the pollen, I'm not too worried right now. I opened the rest of the hive up, (I moved the divider ) as they'd almost filled up the 12 frame area I'd left them for winter. Question time: I'm seeing a lot of drone brood cells. These are capped yellow cells, like in the pics online. Is it too early in the season for drone brood, or are these drone brood getting ready to go out and par-tay? Seems they need to do this early in the season. How soon after they hatch do they go out and mate? I didn't see a lot of regular worker brood-- but I wasn't looking real hard, HobbitWife was taking the pictures, the bees covered the comb, and the lighting was poor. I'm guessing that the worker brood that the queen has laid recently has hatched, and she hasn't replenished them yet. Likewise I didn't spot the queen, either, but I didn't look very hard. I'll get some more pics soon but I have yard work to do (which mostly consists of bossing my teenaged son around). ETA We have a package of bees coming, plus a queen, in April or May! We will put the other top bar hive to work. View Quote |
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By Hanz:
That last cold snap did it. My only surviving colony, a nuc, is no longer alive. Too many chores yesterday to see if they had brood they were covering. I'll likely look next weekend to see what I learn. I alway feel that going through a dead hive is like looking at the victims of Pompeii in Italy. They seem to freeze in place. So sad. View Quote |
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Originally Posted By fish223:
Well, some big boxes arrived this past weekend. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59378/hive-boxes-175243.jpg So I unpacked them. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59378/hive-unpacked-175244.jpg (and yes, I know the bottom is not on the bottom) My nuc is coming from Georgia the morning of April 14th. I'm getting the hive in place this coming weekend, and will be ready to go. I'm a bit nervous about it. This is new territory for me. View Quote |
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By fish223:
Well, some big boxes arrived this past weekend. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59378/hive-boxes-175243.jpg So I unpacked them. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59378/hive-unpacked-175244.jpg (and yes, I know the bottom is not on the bottom) My nuc is coming from Georgia the morning of April 14th. I'm getting the hive in place this coming weekend, and will be ready to go. I'm a bit nervous about it. This is new territory for me. View Quote |
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
Sorry to hear that Would you walk me through what you did for winter preparations? View Quote Untitled by Doug Hansen, on Flickr |
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Know Guns, Know Peace, Know Safety...No Guns, No Peace, No Safety
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Originally Posted By fish223:
Well, some big boxes arrived this past weekend. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59378/hive-boxes-175243.jpg So I unpacked them. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59378/hive-unpacked-175244.jpg (and yes, I know the bottom is not on the bottom) My nuc is coming from Georgia the morning of April 14th. I'm getting the hive in place this coming weekend, and will be ready to go. I'm a bit nervous about it. This is new territory for me. View Quote It's normal to be nervous - wait until you're suited up and there's a hoard of buzzing bees all around you. My instincts are screaming RUN! By my curiosity and sense of duty keeps me in place. Like anything else, it gets easier over time. |
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Know Guns, Know Peace, Know Safety...No Guns, No Peace, No Safety
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Veteran of the Third Battle of Tannhauser Gate.
NM, USA
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It's normal to be nervous - wait until you're suited up and there's a hoard of buzzing bees all around you. My instincts are screaming RUN! By my curiosity and sense of duty keeps me in place. Like anything else, it gets easier over time. View Quote ...and I've worn it twice! Usually, I just go out and open the hive and look around. I even remove frames without suiting up. And if I get stung, it's because I was careless and reached around a frame without looking. HobbitWife has them land on her face, examine her nose and then just fly away. BTW getting stung isn't such a bad deal, IF you remove the stinger quickly (and aren't allergic). Keep a credit card or sharp knife handy and scrape the stinger out. Scrape it in the direction that won't implant it deeper. Scrape from this direction: > , not this direction , < When I get stung, it ITCHES for a couple of days. A small pus pocket will form, about the size of a period ( . ). Then it just goes away. And, when my arthritic thumb got stung, the pain went away for a week! |
Dont you know about sergeants?
Well... I'm learning. They dont have mothers. Just ask any trained private. They reproduce by fission... like all bacteria. |
You are a total nutcase, completely deranged, delusional, paranoid. Your thought process is all fucked up. Your information train is jammed, man!
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By FrankSymptoms:
LOL Unless you get an extreme hive, bees tend to mind their own business. My wife made me a beautiful bee suit, bought me gloves and a hat and made the veil... ...and I've worn it twice! Usually, I just go out and open the hive and look around. I even remove frames without suiting up. And if I get stung, it's because I was careless and reached around a frame without looking. HobbitWife has them land on her face, examine her nose and then just fly away. BTW getting stung isn't such a bad deal, IF you remove the stinger quickly (and aren't allergic). Keep a credit card or sharp knife handy and scrape the stinger out. Scrape it in the direction that won't implant it deeper. Scrape from this direction: > , not this direction , < When I get stung, it ITCHES for a couple of days. A small pus pocket will form, about the size of a period ( . ). Then it just goes away. And, when my arthritic thumb got stung, the pain went away for a week! View Quote That's a good thing. However when you open a big, active hive, there can be 30-60,000 bees flying around your head and body like a buzzing cyclone. It's intimidating as all hell. If I had not gone to the bee yards of my mentors a few times and suited up and "helped" them work their bees, I would have been freaking out a little when the time came to install my own package. The number of flying bees (and angry bees) is always low when installing a package. But for a first timer, that can still seem pretty damn intense. @Fish223 Just move slow and remember..they can't get to you...and focus on the objective. |
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
I like them for the convenience factor and they seem to do a good job of protecting/ insulating the hives. I have not had them long enough to comment on the durability but I have heard of people getting 10 seasons out of them. My mentor makes his own that are almost identical in design. Some of his are for individual hives and some encompass four hives pushed together on a pallet. He is going to give me measurements and walk me through the process of making them this year. I know that he uses Kodel insulation and buys the plastic in bulk. He said that you measure it out, cut to the right length and fold it over the insulation. He uses a metal ruler and an iron to seal the two ends together. All of this can be avoided by purchasing the Bee Cozy's but for him it was not cost effective as he at one time had thousands of hives. I will share what info he gives me as it will probably benefit you as you have multiple hives. I got mine from mann lake for $18.00 each and for that price, they seem worth it. I know that you were debating not wrapping this year, how did you make out? So far we are at a little over 20% loss which is very good compared to many that I have spoken with. I know quite a few people that have lost 60% -80%! View Quote |
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A Nation of Sheep Breeds a Government of Wolves!!!
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I'm starting to get concerned. I have 3 packages coming next week and I'm sitting here watching over a foot of snow fall. The ground isn't even thawed enough under the snow to level my hives. Nothing is budding, so there is no food. It still drops below freezing many nights. I may be screwed when it comes to adding new hives from packages this year. They won't survive in these conditions.
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Originally Posted By Martlet:
I'm starting to get concerned. I have 3 packages coming next week and I'm sitting here watching over a foot of snow fall. The ground isn't even thawed enough under the snow to level my hives. Nothing is budding, so there is no food. It still drops below freezing many nights. I may be screwed when it comes to adding new hives from packages this year. They won't survive in these conditions. View Quote If you cannot delay, what resources do you have available to give them? Do you have any drawn comb or honey frames? |
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Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
I wold be very interested in a tutorial on Cozy making. I lost about 9 out of 55ish (15% loss) and 3 out of 12 nucs so 25% nuc loss. However I can't find the queen in 3 of the nucs. Larva, but no queen. Back into them in a day or 2. View Quote We had a club meeting this past Thursday. Our State Apiarist did a very good presentation and I found out that she lives only about 20 minutes from me which is VERY convenient. She is going to come do an inspection after I make up my Nucs for sale. She said that it would be good for business to be the only one in the area to have Nucs AND Queens that were certified by the state. It also helps that she and my wife seemed to hit it off and were very chatty. I can see them becoming friends. I grabbed a bunch of handouts from her that I will scan for all to see. Most of her presentation was about diseases/ pests and what to look for as well as treatments. She also had a bunch of good info on spring and fall management practices. I also asked her if she would let me know the apiary locations within 10 miles of my operation and she said that she will gather info and get back to me. That is very valuable info, especially as a queen breeder. |
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Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
Is there any way that you can delay the delivery? Seems very early for packages in your location. If you cannot delay, what resources do you have available to give them? Do you have any drawn comb or honey frames? View Quote I do. I probably have 20 or so drawn frames I could give them. I also have 10+ frames of honey I saved from last year. My biggest concern is the package itself. Regardless of their inability to forage, I can provide honey/pollen patties/sugar until the snow leaves. However, as I currently have 16 inches of snow on the ground and it's STILL snowing, I'm more concerned about the weather. If it stays this cold, the queen won't lay and I doubt the package will have enough bees to provide warmth. |
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By Martlet:
Unfortunately, I can't delay them. They come when they come, unless the transporter agrees to hold the whole shipment. We'll see. I do. I probably have 20 or so drawn frames I could give them. I also have 10+ frames of honey I saved from last year. My biggest concern is the package itself. Regardless of their inability to forage, I can provide honey/pollen patties/sugar until the snow leaves. However, as I currently have 16 inches of snow on the ground and it's STILL snowing, I'm more concerned about the weather. If it stays this cold, the queen won't lay and I doubt the package will have enough bees to provide warmth. View Quote |
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei
Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
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