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Link Posted: 9/10/2018 8:40:45 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 9/10/2018 8:42:37 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 9/10/2018 8:45:15 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 9/10/2018 8:47:36 PM EDT
[#4]
Link Posted: 9/10/2018 8:49:50 PM EDT
[#5]
Link Posted: 9/10/2018 8:51:38 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 9/10/2018 8:53:00 PM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 2:03:02 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
She's beautiful!

I hope, with the changes we are making, that I might can take you up on your offer of a queen or two to try down here, one day soon.
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
She's beautiful!

I hope, with the changes we are making, that I might can take you up on your offer of a queen or two to try down here, one day soon.
Yes, the offer still stands.
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 11:06:10 PM EDT
[#9]
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 12:21:15 PM EDT
[#10]
For those that may need it:

Link Posted: 9/12/2018 3:58:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CWO:
For those that may need it:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/Eyesofsilver/image1.jpg
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That's ALMOST enough to withstand New Mexico's high winds.
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 10:01:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#12]
Link Posted: 9/15/2018 10:19:35 PM EDT
[#13]
@cuttingedge

What’s your business name? Provided I have a surviving colony in the spring and need to split, I’d like to possibly purchase a queen from you.
Link Posted: 9/15/2018 11:21:10 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By mr2143:
@cuttingedge

What’s your business name? Provided I have a surviving colony in the spring and need to split, I’d like to possibly purchase a queen from you.
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PM Sent!
Link Posted: 9/22/2018 11:42:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Krombompulos_Michael] [#15]
Anyone else produce comb honey?  I have been doing it for a few years now.  I did 4 shallow supers this year, no foundation.  It produced a little over 100 4” x 4” squares. It’s a lot of fun to make, and the taste is superior, but I find that not many people know what to do with it.  I gave one to a friend and he microwaved it to try to separate the wax from the honey.  That would be like taking a filet mignon, grinding it into a burger, then cooking it well done.   I include instructions on how to eat it now.
Link Posted: 9/22/2018 1:36:19 PM EDT
[#16]
One of my hives is kicking the drones out now.
Link Posted: 9/22/2018 9:13:46 PM EDT
[#17]
Link Posted: 9/23/2018 12:42:45 AM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
will you tell what your instructions are, for others who might be in this position?  Comb honey is very popular here, but a lot of younger people don't understand it.

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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
Originally Posted By 1811guy:
Anyone else produce comb honey?  I have been doing it for a few years now.  I did 4 shallow supers this year, no foundation.  It produced a little over 100 4” x 4” squares. It’s a lot of fun to make, and the taste is superior, but I find that not many people know what to do with it.  I gave one to a friend and he microwaved it to try to separate the wax from the honey.  That would be like taking a filet mignon, grinding it into a burger, then cooking it well done.   I include instructions on how to eat it now.
will you tell what your instructions are, for others who might be in this position?  Comb honey is very popular here, but a lot of younger people don't understand it.

My favorite way to eat it is to just cut off a piece and eat it.  The texture of the wax is amazing, and the feel of the cells  bursting in your mouth followed by the sweetness of the honey and complex flavors is incredible.  You can eat the wax, or as you chew the comb the wax will eventually form together like a piece of gum and you can just spit it out.

Credit for the following instructions goes to “The Honey Bee Suite” website:

Toast a piece of your favorite bread or an English muffin. While it is still very hot, spread it lightly with butter. With a knife, cut a chunk of comb honey and spread it over the toast. You may have to mash it a bit, but the heat will soften the comb so it flattens into the toast along with the honey. It doesn’t melt, but becomes soft and aromatic. It is also good on hot biscuits, French toast, or pancakes.
The upscale restaurants often serve comb honey in the center of a plate surrounded by a selection of expensive cheeses and multi-grain crackers. The idea here is to cover the cracker with a piece of cheese and top it off with a small chunk of comb. This works great with cheddar or brie, but any cheese will work.
Link Posted: 9/25/2018 9:35:33 PM EDT
[#19]
Link Posted: 9/27/2018 2:09:25 AM EDT
[#20]
Sunflowers may help bee keepers eliminate or reduce Nosema virus.

We discovered that sunflower (Helianthus annuus) pollen dramatically and consistently reduced a protozoan pathogen (Crithidia bombi) infection in bumble bees (Bombus impatiens) and also reduced a microsporidian pathogen (Nosema ceranae) of the European honey bee (Apis mellifera), indicating the potential for broad anti-parasitic effects.
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Link to article
Link Posted: 9/27/2018 10:41:39 PM EDT
[#21]
Link Posted: 10/2/2018 10:37:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Krombompulos_Michael] [#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
That's amazing.

In my experience, people chew the comb, but don't actually eat it, usually.

Is that what's happening here?

Or are people eating the comb in those upscale restaurants?
View Quote
If you eat it with something - like on a cracker, with cheese, or on toast - you actually eat the comb.  If eating the comb by itself the wax will generally form a lump as you chew and the honey dissolves.  Good comb is amazingly delicate and tender; you almost don't notice it at all.  If someone uses wax foundation, you usually end up with tough, chewy comb because the man made wax foundation is pretty tough.  When the bees are allowed to build the comb without foundation, the finished product is superior and the texture is amazing.  They don't always fill out frames perfectly though, and they sometimes just build the comb however the hell they want and avoid filling out perfect frames altogether.

Comb honey is fairly easy to produce, and easier to process than extracting.  I use shallow supers and put them on at the first sign of nectar flow.  The beeswax produced in the spring is usually the finest and best.  I will fill the top notch of the frames (where man made foundation would normally insert) with beeswax.  This will encourage the bees to start building the comb following the frames.  They are usually drawn out, filled and capped around early to mid June.  Processing is easy.  Just cut the comb out of the frame with a thin knife, and cut into 4x4 squares.  One super can potentially produce 40 squares that are anywhere between 10-16 oz each.  There are typically irregularities in the comb structure itself, so I usually get around 35 squares.  I save any scraps and chunks and just place them in a container to use.  It doesn't look pretty, but it tastes the same.  My kids sell the comb honey at our local farmer's market in the summer for $15 a square, and I give whatever they don't sell as gifts.  Most people are perplexed by it, but I find once they try it they really enjoy it and ask for more.  A few weird ducks are usually turned off by it because they can't get over the thought of eating the beeswax.  Same people who freak out about eating brown eggs, or who can't eat a vegetable with a blemish on it.
Link Posted: 10/2/2018 1:28:24 PM EDT
[#23]
Link Posted: 10/30/2018 1:24:25 PM EDT
[#24]
I just finished a smaller bee conference this last weekend outside Dallas. It was decent, but not spectacular or anything. I got to meet the state apiary inspectors. There are 4 for the entire state of Texas. Most of what I sat in on was about varroa control. I swear if i have to hear one more explanation of how to do a powder sugar roll, I'm just going to go out and knock all my hives over. I did get some explanation about top bar hives from one guy who was extremely introverted, but I picked up enough that I may try to build one over the winter.

The larger statewide conference is coming up:

https://texasbeekeepers.org/

2018 Annual Convention
November 8th -10th
Frank Mayborn Event & Convention Center

3303 N 3rd St., Temple, TX 76501
Link Posted: 10/30/2018 2:25:36 PM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:

That always makes me kinda sad.  
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How do you think the Drones feel???
Link Posted: 10/30/2018 7:52:52 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
How do you think the Drones feel???
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Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:

That always makes me kinda sad.  
How do you think the Drones feel???
C-c-c-c-cooollllld!
Link Posted: 10/30/2018 10:30:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SilverSlinger] [#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CWO:
For those that may need it:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/Eyesofsilver/image1.jpg
View Quote
Nice! My beeyards went through 2 hurricanes (Matthew and Irene...each with about 105+ mph winds). I strapped the boxes on my taller hives together (ratchet straps), left honey supers on and placed 2 cinder blocks on top of each hive. I also strapped some of the taller hives to my 4x4's. My hives are currently on 4" x 4"'s on top of concrete blocks. I have screened bottom boards and didn't put the IPM boards in underneath (I think I will in the future). I didn't even lose a lid (I was surprised...I was expecting some damage). I put in entrance reducers but didn't close the hives. One of my bee-yards flooded but my hives were high and dry.

Here is a pic of one of my yards:
Link Posted: 10/30/2018 11:10:53 PM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By FrankSymptoms:
C-c-c-c-cooollllld!
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Originally Posted By FrankSymptoms:
Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:

That always makes me kinda sad.  
How do you think the Drones feel???
C-c-c-c-cooollllld!
Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 10/31/2018 9:18:17 PM EDT
[#29]
Link Posted: 11/10/2018 9:50:25 PM EDT
[#30]
It's Official.  Bumblebee Is Declared Endangered.

Sad.  I don't have hives but after reading a while ago about how herbicides kill off many of the plants they rely on, I added some of those plants to my yard.  I figure every little bit helps.
Link Posted: 11/18/2018 9:01:32 PM EDT
[#31]
I noticed some of my honey in glass jars is starting to gel. Is it becoming crystalized? and so soon? Plastic bears are fine.

Or something else?
Link Posted: 11/18/2018 10:31:11 PM EDT
[#32]
Link Posted: 11/18/2018 10:32:12 PM EDT
[#33]
Link Posted: 11/18/2018 10:55:04 PM EDT
[#34]
I put a jar in some hot water. Turned out fine.

I've never seen jelled honey before. It was always either "normal" or crystallized.

And as another note, the co-owner in one of my hives reported today the bees were dead. No real reason could be found.

I have not been able to check my hives the last day it was over 40, and the next one will be saturday. I hope they are OK. I left them plenty of sugar, but who knows?
Link Posted: 11/19/2018 1:32:07 PM EDT
[#35]
Bee Feeding Question;

Last year I was all ready to jump into raising bees,  I went to the Brazos Co. Bee Feast, went to lectures, asked questions and just about set to go.  But as I usually do I think I overanalyzed the process and did nothing.  I got hung up on feeding the bees.  They types of feeders, when and how much???  I want to establish two hives at my ranch and right now I am only there about 3-4 days a week.  I have a small cow/calf operation that keeps me busy.   I know its time to start pre-ordering nucs for next year.  Could someone briefly share your experiences in types of feeders, when, how much is required?  I really like a feeder from New Zealand that I found last year.   I want to move forward in setting up hives for 2019.   thanks
Link Posted: 11/19/2018 7:36:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#36]
Link Posted: 11/20/2018 10:32:25 AM EDT
[#37]
Here's a good example of the above. I was in contact with a man in Idaho about keeping my Italians there in top bar hives. His response:

Italian do just fine here if you keep them fed really well.  Italians tend to be very broody. Instead of conserving their stores for winter they burn through them making brood in the fall and early spring.  Carniolan or Caucasian are what a lot of northern beekeepers prefer, but with the right management, good forage, and proper disease prevention they can all perform well.  Where are you moving from? and where in Idaho are you moving to?  Winters and summers are very different depending on where you live in this state.   I prefer Langstroth equipment as well because it is easier to manage and sturdier for all levels of beekeeping.
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Link Posted: 11/20/2018 3:29:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DUX4LIFE] [#38]
I prefer to feed 1-1 sugar syrup in the early spring(March) along with a pollen patty(February).  This gets the queen starting early on brood and the workers prepared to bring in the early pollen/nectar.

In July when I pull supers off I also started a policy of giving each hive 2 gallons of 2-1 syrup.  They are in a dearth at this time and the queen has started to shut down brood.  However the mites are still increasing their population so the bees need to keep up.

I for one like a large population going into winter so I try to get a large cluster for the winter so I start early.  In September I check each hive by weight.  I strive to make sure each 2 deep box hive has 100 lbs of stores.  This means that the hive will weigh roughly 150 lbs including the bees/boxes/frames.  It may be overkill but it works for me.  This also allows as large as a cluster as I can get.  To me more bees mean more warmth.  Also more bees if I should have a die off from a virus.  But also more mouths to feed.

In November I try to put on a candy board along with a 4 lb block of sugar for an emergency.  This is an emergency source of food but more than that it is a food source for the bees if they cannot move to another frame due to the cold.  They can ball up around the sugar block until a warm spell arrives.

For all syrup needs I strictly use the plastic hivetop feeders.  I have had great luck with few bees drowning.  Here it is  I have one of these for each hive I own along with a candy board.

Speaking of feed I found a good deal on Sugar so I picked up next years load. 2,304 pounds.
Attachment Attached File


Oh, And Kitty I'm back now...
Link Posted: 11/20/2018 8:25:52 PM EDT
[#39]
Link Posted: 11/20/2018 10:21:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SilverSlinger] [#40]
Brought in a bunch of supers yesterday and today. 1/2 of the supers were mangrove honey, the other half a blend of white sweet clover, palm, Brazillian pepper and wildflower. Must....get....automated....equipment...

Here's a pic of the mangrove honey:
Link Posted: 11/20/2018 10:40:34 PM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
I prefer to feed 1-1 sugar syrup in the early spring(March) along with a pollen patty(February).  This gets the queen starting early on brood and the workers prepared to bring in the early pollen/nectar.

In July when I pull supers off I also started a policy of giving each hive 2 gallons of 2-1 syrup.  They are in a dearth at this time and the queen has started to shut down brood.  However the mites are still increasing their population so the bees need to keep up.

I for one like a large population going into winter so I try to get a large cluster for the winter so I start early.  In September I check each hive by weight.  I strive to make sure each 2 deep box hive has 100 lbs of stores.  This means that the hive will weigh roughly 150 lbs including the bees/boxes/frames.  It may be overkill but it works for me.  This also allows as large as a cluster as I can get.  To me more bees mean more warmth.  Also more bees if I should have a die off from a virus.  But also more mouths to feed.

In November I try to put on a candy board along with a 4 lb block of sugar for an emergency.  This is an emergency source of food but more than that it is a food source for the bees if they cannot move to another frame due to the cold.  They can ball up around the sugar block until a warm spell arrives.

For all syrup needs I strictly use the plastic hivetop feeders.  I have had great luck with few bees drowning.  Here it ishttps://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.7Eb9ilgV2OGWXkABA7dUrQHaF7&pid=15.1&P=0&w=196&h=158  I have one of these for each hive I own along with a candy board.

Speaking of feed I found a good deal on Sugar so I picked up next years load. 2,304 pounds.
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/144881/20181120_104915_jpg-745412.JPG

Oh, And Kitty I'm back now...
View Quote
Interesting. I always like to see how others beekeep in different climates. It makes sense that a larger cluster =  more heat.
Link Posted: 11/21/2018 2:53:46 PM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SilverSlinger:
Interesting. I always like to see how others beekeep in different climates. It makes sense that a larger cluster =  more heat.
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Originally Posted By SilverSlinger:
Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
I prefer to feed 1-1 sugar syrup in the early spring(March) along with a pollen patty(February).  This gets the queen starting early on brood and the workers prepared to bring in the early pollen/nectar.

In July when I pull supers off I also started a policy of giving each hive 2 gallons of 2-1 syrup.  They are in a dearth at this time and the queen has started to shut down brood.  However the mites are still increasing their population so the bees need to keep up.

I for one like a large population going into winter so I try to get a large cluster for the winter so I start early.  In September I check each hive by weight.  I strive to make sure each 2 deep box hive has 100 lbs of stores.  This means that the hive will weigh roughly 150 lbs including the bees/boxes/frames.  It may be overkill but it works for me.  This also allows as large as a cluster as I can get.  To me more bees mean more warmth.  Also more bees if I should have a die off from a virus.  But also more mouths to feed.

In November I try to put on a candy board along with a 4 lb block of sugar for an emergency.  This is an emergency source of food but more than that it is a food source for the bees if they cannot move to another frame due to the cold.  They can ball up around the sugar block until a warm spell arrives.

For all syrup needs I strictly use the plastic hivetop feeders.  I have had great luck with few bees drowning.  Here it ishttps://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.7Eb9ilgV2OGWXkABA7dUrQHaF7&pid=15.1&P=0&w=196&h=158  I have one of these for each hive I own along with a candy board.

Speaking of feed I found a good deal on Sugar so I picked up next years load. 2,304 pounds.
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/144881/20181120_104915_jpg-745412.JPG

Oh, And Kitty I'm back now...
Interesting. I always like to see how others beekeep in different climates. It makes sense that a larger cluster =  more heat.
It’s more food intensive for sure, but larger clusters in February can manage more brood earlier for spring buildup.  Here, max honey production occurs when your hive is ripping in April.  Left to there own devices, and depending on conditions, they won’t grow much until pollen and nectar is flowing.  Early feeding of a strong cluster allows maximum brood production in cold temps.

Definitely need to monitor resources well with this management style...
Link Posted: 11/21/2018 6:19:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: CWO] [#43]
I don't think this has been covered here - but Brushy Mountain Bee Farm has closed their doors.  They have been a great source of woodware, accessories, bees and basically all equipment related to beekeeping.  They were a large beekeeping business and I picked up two packages from them this year.  Their quality and shipping were always fine.  They will be missed.
Link Posted: 11/23/2018 4:41:14 PM EDT
[#44]
Link Posted: 11/23/2018 4:43:04 PM EDT
[#45]
Link Posted: 11/23/2018 5:20:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: CWO] [#46]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
Aww, I'm sad to hear this.  I got some cypress woodenware from them at one time.  A garden hive and a solar wax melter, and they were once the ONLY source of small-cell wax foundation.

@CWO do you know why they closed?
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
Originally Posted By CWO:
I don't think this has been covered here - but Brushy Mountain Bee Farm has closed their doors.  They have been a great source of woodware, accessories, bees and basically all equipment related to beekeeping.  They were a large beekeeping business and I picked up two packages from them this year.  Their quality and shipping were always fine.  They will be missed.
Aww, I'm sad to hear this.  I got some cypress woodenware from them at one time.  A garden hive and a solar wax melter, and they were once the ONLY source of small-cell wax foundation.

@CWO do you know why they closed?
No, I don't know.  They were certainly modern, seemed always well-stocked and my orders always went smoothly.  They were selling a staggering number of packages and nucs this Spring.  They had a very informative blog.

BeeSource has a thread exchanging rumors - but no real facts.  The most credible one seemed to be increasing competition from ML and a recent ML acquisition of another firm.

Link Posted: 11/23/2018 11:18:50 PM EDT
[#47]
Link Posted: 11/26/2018 11:55:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#48]
Link Posted: 11/27/2018 2:00:44 PM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DUX4LIFE:
I prefer to feed 1-1 sugar syrup in the early spring(March) along with a pollen patty(February).  This gets the queen starting early on brood and the workers prepared to bring in the early pollen/nectar.

In July when I pull supers off I also started a policy of giving each hive 2 gallons of 2-1 syrup.  They are in a dearth at this time and the queen has started to shut down brood.  However the mites are still increasing their population so the bees need to keep up.

I for one like a large population going into winter so I try to get a large cluster for the winter so I start early.  In September I check each hive by weight.  I strive to make sure each 2 deep box hive has 100 lbs of stores.  This means that the hive will weigh roughly 150 lbs including the bees/boxes/frames.  It may be overkill but it works for me.  This also allows as large as a cluster as I can get.  To me more bees mean more warmth.  Also more bees if I should have a die off from a virus.  But also more mouths to feed.

In November I try to put on a candy board along with a 4 lb block of sugar for an emergency.  This is an emergency source of food but more than that it is a food source for the bees if they cannot move to another frame due to the cold.  They can ball up around the sugar block until a warm spell arrives.

For all syrup needs I strictly use the plastic hivetop feeders.  I have had great luck with few bees drowning.  Here it ishttps://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.7Eb9ilgV2OGWXkABA7dUrQHaF7&pid=15.1&P=0&w=196&h=158  I have one of these for each hive I own along with a candy board.

Speaking of feed I found a good deal on Sugar so I picked up next years load. 2,304 pounds.
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/144881/20181120_104915_jpg-745412.JPG

Oh, And Kitty I'm back now...
View Quote
My feeding situation is very similar. I use frame feeders throughout the season in almost all of my full sized colonies. I usually place them into the hives around the beginning of June. I also give pollen substitute early to help get brood rearing started. A good starting point for pollen sub is to count back about 8 weeks from your average first pollen. For fall feeding, I use pail feeders inverted over migratory lids. I also open feed but am very isolated. We feed out an average of about 3.5 gallons per colony in the fall. This season we had a bad dearth in August and I started feeding as soon as I noticed robbing.
We run about 150 mating nucs and some of those are very small. Any robbing pressure with those can be very bad for me so I open feed away from the hives to divert attention away from those smaller colonies. We typically do not feed in the spring unless absolutely necessary.
Link Posted: 11/27/2018 9:23:33 PM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By cuttingedge:

My feeding situation is very similar. I use frame feeders throughout the season in almost all of my full sized colonies. I usually place them into the hives around the beginning of June. I also give pollen substitute early to help get brood rearing started. A good starting point for pollen sub is to count back about 8 weeks from your average first pollen. For fall feeding, I use pail feeders inverted over migratory lids. I also open feed but am very isolated. We feed out an average of about 3.5 gallons per colony in the fall. This season we had a bad dearth in August and I started feeding as soon as I noticed robbing.
We run about 150 mating nucs and some of those are very small. Any robbing pressure with those can be very bad for me so I open feed away from the hives to divert attention away from those smaller colonies. We typically do not feed in the spring unless absolutely necessary.
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Wow, 8 weeks,  We are seeing limited amounts of pale colored Pollen (Maple) in Mid february.
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