Had this set up for a couple of years now but have never really had anyone critique it to make it better and/or lighter.  No idea what it weighs. One day when I'm bored I might weigh everything to see what it actually adds up to, but right now I have no idea.

This is a multi-day GHB I keep in my trunk. I work 40 or so miles from home, depending on which way I go, and I'm figuring 3-5 days walking (average fitness person can do around 15 or so miles a day, give or take). I work in Nashville and would have to, at worst, walk home through some rough areas and make several water crossings. My PACE emergency plan, since I work on the RR yard, is to take the tracks south as far as I can and follow a certain creek until I get to the family farm.

This is currently set up for summer. For winter I'd swap out the wobbie for one or both of the MSS bags.

As you'll see, I believe in redundancies in multiple locations and levels.

EDC (Level 1)
Kershaw Link w/ S35VN steel
AA flashlight
When not working:
Glock 43 w/ extra mag in a StealthGearUSA holster or a Glock 19 w/ RMR in a OWB

Level 2:
Hill People Gear kit bag


Front pocket contents:
Old Leatherman Wave
Old Ontario ESEE Folding knife
Bic lighter w/ cover
Whistle
Silva Ranger compass


Middle pocket contents:
2 x red chem lights
Flare
1 liter collapsible flask wrapped around Katadyn tabs
Petzl headlamp
Monocle
Honey tubes and honey drops
Mirror
Land-nav protractor
550
ESEE ferro-rod w/ compass and compartment full of vasolene cotton balls
Blister kit


Rear compartment:
Glock 17


Level 3:
Pack: Large ALICE Hellcat w/ blue rain cover to blend in/not look so military when necessary.



Right side of the pack has my ESEE RC4.  I need a new sheath badly. Had this one made locally and I don't trust it. Would prefer a sturdy leather one to hang on my belt:


The three large outside pockets contain my fire kit (red bag in left pocket), water kit (blue bag in right pocket), and a Pathfinder water bottle system w/ cup, lid, and fire ring, a poncho, and some 550 to quickly string it if necessary:


Fire kit contents:
Emberlit titanium stove
Fatwood
2 x flares
Blast match
PF Inferno disks
Wetfire cubes
Trioxane bars
Cotton balls with vasolene
Char-cloth tin


Water kit:
Katadyn Hiker water filter (need a new filter and a dedicated bag)
Coffee filters
Katadyn tabs
Chlorine tabs
Flavor packs to make is easier to choke down
Obviously reason for steel bottles is for ability to boil if all else fails


Three little pockets contain:
More 550 with figure 9s
Boo-Boo kit
Butt-wipes
Cup holder for PF bottle system to allow hanging of cut as a pot


Inside radio pocket of main compartment:
Radio
Hygiene stuff
Pogey bait, morale boosters, or food easy to eat on move (Tuna and trail mix)
Boonie
Tarp clips
Lots more 550
Sewing kit wrapped in handkerchief


Main compartment:
First aid kit and SAM splint on top
Another steel water bottle
Bug spray
Socks
Sealskinz socks
Skivvies
3 x emergency rations
6 x various Mountain House meals
USGI gortex bivvy
Nysil tarp
Reflective tarp
Ground pad
USGI wobbie with sleeping bag kit sewn in


Not pictured:
Map roll w/ USGS maps of entire route home and surrounding area
Light weight AR w/ 4 mags
Boots

Planned changes:
Adding hammock and possibly a rain fly or larger tarp

Known issues:
Comms
Bigger flash light
Reload for G17

So, what should I add, what do I have way too much of (I feel like 550 is in that list), and what should I completely rethink?

I removed items in your quote.
As you see from the other thread.
Dump the knives...dump needless redundancy.
Get rid of that Alice pack..or trade to medium.

Weigh it..hump it.
Weigh again.
Dump shit.

40 miles. Your not camping your getting your ass home.
High energy foods,water,protection.
Good boots/trail shoes,good socks.
Good routes and push out the miles.
Rest when you get home.
Dump extra mountain houses. 40 miles is 4 days extreme.
Try no cook items. Eat on the go.
Etc

Ymmv.

Drop weight. Stay under 30 lbs.

I love the Kit Bag!  That, by itself, is a good E&E bag.

Weigh your ruck, base weight, no water or food (o fuel if not just using the Emberlit and natural fuel).  If you’re base weight is over 20 pounds you probably need to focus on needs vs. wants and despite the Hellcat modification which is nice, you may want a lighter pack.  Your “big three” for weight are your pack, shelter system and sleep system.  For my area, I would go with a very light hammock for about 6-7 months out of the year, but the Bivvy bag would be nice for colder seasons.  A tarp/poncho is a must to keep weight down and versatility up; Sil-nylon is about the best deal to cut weight, keep performance and maintain robustness.  

The distance of 40 miles isn’t too bad; I would plan on about 10 miles a day for a conservative estimate.  On a nice day in good weather, you could probably crank out 18-20 miles, but chances are the weather will be crappy, most SHTF situations occur at the end of the work day for some reason so you have harder conditions to move fast with limited illumination; and if the conditions warrant off-road travel, that will significantly impact your travel distance/time.  Not to mention, obstacles which will likely slow you significantly if you have to cross a major river or bypass a bad town or neighborhood.  Any deviations will add distance and time…40 miles in 3 days could end up being 60 miles in 7 days.

Your food is overkill.  A hot meal or two is okay, but for this packing list, you likely want ready-to-eat meals like the lifeboat rations, tuna, energy bars, etc.  I typically toss a couple packets off instant soup and that is really only if the weather is cold and it is part of my system to stave off hypothermia.  

I love paracord, but you have a boatload.  You need enough for your shelter system and a few extra sections, but weigh it all first.  For accessory cord, I’ve been using spectra cord which weighs just grams or cheaper bank-line.  550 cord weighs a ton in comparison and is overkill for about 90% of your cordage needs.  

Keep in mind this is a get-home bag.  I would do a few 2-3-day camping trips with your kit; take copious notes about what was used and what was never touched.  Weight every individual item and make a spreadsheet.  This sounds so anal, but from all the distance backpacking I’ve done, it was the only way to really cut weight and get passed my military-focused redundancy planning.  There are only a couple items you need to consider redundancy with, the rest is just good planning and making smart decisions.  For example, you have three firesteels (one in your Kit Bag, one on your knife, and one in your fire kit.  I do like having a firesteel, but swap the others out for two Bics; don’t forget you have a couple of road flares for real dire emergencies as well…easy to shave weight but still have an adequate PACE.

I don’t see much clothing.  Layer clothing is part of your shelter system.  A rain jacket/parka, pants and possibly a puffy or fleece pullover for colder seasons.  You always want dry clothing to change into if your worn clothes get soaked.

I went away from a full-size AR carbine and have gone to a AR or similar pistol caliber sized pistol.  They are easier to transport, still effective for the distance in my AO, but easy to keep out of sight for discretion.  Your area and plan will dictate the need; I really don’t need it for mine, but it’s part of my current plan.  

Map of the area is essential.  Map out two-three routes; annotate choke points or major obstacles; identify all potential water sources and hides.  Finally, at least do a drive-through recon of your routes.

Again, get out and test out your kit.  Make sure your ruck is comfortable enough for multiple days doing several miles.  My last dry run was on a long weekend.  I drove to a local state park and hiked a 9-mile route before setting up camp (in the dark).  The next day, I did a larger 14-mile loop section before heading home.  It’s not the best rehearsal, but you get the opportunity to iron out some issues.  I have road my mountain bike home from work once (22 miles) when I had a half-day.  It was a good way to recon one route and remind me why a bicycle is a better alternative than hiking on foot!  

ROCK6

Everybody is different.

Do a multi mile overnight with it. Re-evaluate.
Do a 10+ mile through-hike. Re-evaluate.
Do a 2-3 day through-hike. Re-evaluate.

It's a constant game of tweaking your setup/gear, and you never really know what works and what doesn't without putting it to the test.  Shit gets heavy fast.

There are folks here who know a shitload more than me, but I have a little experience, and I can tell you for sure that if I need to expedite a get-home plan, you could probably track me easily by the trail of shit I'm going to jettison on the way.

Based on the feedback from GD, this is what I've pruned it to:

Still no water. I'm going to add a water bladder of some sort to the below.

2nd Line Gear:
3rd line gear to go in pack (whether I keep the ALICE rig or get something better/lighter):

Thank you very much for you feedback. Do you feel like the boat rations are worth their weight or should I be looking at something else? Should I ditch the MH and add another ration and tuna or energy bars?

I have USGS maps of the route in a map roll, it just wasn't pictured. I think I'm dropping the AR and just adding another mag or two for the 17.

RE: clothing: I work outside so I normally have several layers on me or in the trunk if it's winter. I keep a good set of broken in Danners in the trunk next to the bag along with an old orange French wool blanket, though I'd hate to carry it.  I have a set of surplus USGI gortex rain gear (top and bottoms) that I could throw in.

Again, really appreciate your feedback.

It helps to show the weight.  Add your ruck and you're likely over 20 pounds without water.  Just fine tuning a few items, you could cut a couple pounds.  If you're pack works good for you and is comfortable for longer distances, I wouldn't worry about paying a few hundred dollars just to cut a few pounds...at some point that will be important, but it's still a serviceable and functional pack.


I like the Datrex rations and think they are worth it.  They store well in fluctuating temps, they don't require a ton of water to digest and they taste good enough to eat, but not so good as to snack on them when they're not needed

I like Mountain House to augment our backpacking menu and they're a good addition when temps are really cold.  I do see the value of a hot meal from a morale perspective, but I would rather consider cheaper instant oatmeal or instant soups.  Both are easy to make with hot water, store well in a vehicle and cheap enough to rotate periodically.  Again, 40 miles is a good distance and you will need calories more to keep focused than calorie replacement.  The other value is sodium intake just to keep balanced.  If it's hot and you're sweating you'll lose those valuable electrolytes which need to be replaced.  A couple days of hot hiking will leave you with cramps if you don't include enough water and electrolytes; food also helps with more efficient water absorption.  

I think you would be fine with a G17.  Something larger would be needed if it was a trip that was going to take longer than a week and or you were working in a downtown urban environment that is volatile.  

Layered clothing is best and comfortable hiking shoes/boots.  My only recommendation is to have something to change into if it's cold and you get soaked.  For regular backpacking, I have one set of clothes, a couple layers, rain shell, etc., but I have dedicated "sleep" clothes that can also be used for layering, but more importantly if I'm soaked and freezing, I get the shelter up and change into my dry clothes and climb under the quilt.  For me, it's a long sleeve merino wool shirt, merino long underwear, extra socks, merino wool hat, and gloves.  

You could swap out the one stainless bottle with a collapsible bottle (Platypus, Evernew, Nalgene, etc.).  One hard container is good, but you can cut a lot of weight with a soft-sided, collapsible canteen(s).  

The plan is more important than the gear, but you have a sold kit that just needs for you to get out and refine what works best for you and cut weight where you're comfortable.  

ROCK6

Re: food. I have some guys saying it's not nearly enough because my figuring 10-15 miles a day is unrealistic and other saying it's too much. The six meals weigh as much as a single ration, so I figured some variety and versatility would be a benefit.

I definitely need a collapsible or plastic Nalgene bottle.

I've been looking at some of the lower cost bags on Amazon. What would be a good size? 35L?? 50L?

I also forgot I have one of these Mountainsmith Circuit 3.0 packs but it's over 5 lbs and is over 5000 in^3 and I feel that's much too big for all but the two or possibly three months out of the year I have to carry a heavier sleep system.

There's no perfect answer.  If you feel the variety and versatility in food would benefit you the most and you're willing to carry the weight, do it.  The weight in the pack disappears as you begin consuming your supplies, so you won't be carrying that weight on your back for long.  Also, aside from rucking with the pack as a proof of concept to test equipment, plans, or skills, you won't be rucking with the pack until you absolutely need it, so what do you care about a couple of extra consumable pounds?  It will only be a minor inconvenience when you finally have to do it.  

Also, don't bother with cheap packs.  What you have works.  Stick with it for now.  If you have to use it tomorrow, you'll be fine with it.  Focus on figuring out what your dream pack is for this purpose, save your pennies, and then buy your dream pack.  The difference between budget packs and quality packs is distinguishable.  Occasionally you can find killer deals on some really nice gear.  If you can't find any deals on the pack you want, no worries.  Keep saving until you can afford it.  You're not in a pinch where you need a pack now, so don't feel rushed to settle for something you don't really want.

Have you thought about investing in a folding bike? Could get you home much quicker and cut down on your needed suplies.

I'll just give you my take on food.  Even when distance backpacking, it takes a few days to develop your "trail appetite".  When we plan longer trips (50+miles), we don't really pack as much food for the first 2-3 days.  Ironically, your body takes time to adjust and you'll find, despite the stress and increased burning of calories, you just don't have the appetite until your body gets the daily routine of calorie burning and the need picks up after the first couple days.  With that said, food is less about calories and more about keeping your metabolism working and ingesting electrolytes and helping to absorb water into the body.  Another consideration why you may not necessarily "need" food for a 3-4 day trek in moderate weather, even some snacks helps you mentally to keep focused on what's going on around you vice you grumbling stomach.  That sounds stupid, but most of my injuries occurred when I was more focused on my stomach than where I was stepping.  

Take what you have and try and get out to do a similar distance hike.  Annotate how much food you ate, if you think you need more of one thing, or if you just have a bunch left over.  SHTF is not different than the start of a long hike.  You're body gets stressed and you mind is adjusting to the new surroundings and exertion; it can be easy to ignore food, but you still need to intake some nutrition and keep the metabolism working and balanced.  

As mentioned, this is a bug-home bag and your pack is fine for this task.  Use it now and if you take up more backpacking, you can start to test out lighter packs.  I wouldn't buy a cheap pack and I wouldn't want to spend a couple hundred on a nice pack only to sit at work or in my vehicle.  Also mentioned, is just keep looking for used or older models of quality packs that pop up on Ebay or discounted sites.  We do a lot of backpacking invites to family and friends, so all our extra packs get used often and come in handy even though we don't specifically use them much.

ROCK6

Day three of my last multi day really taught me about food. 
My meals normally we're small.
Rice noodles,flavoring,pack of tuna or chicken,cliff bar or protein bar and a electrolyte drink. With tea or coffee later.
Was a typical dinner.
Snacks we're trail mix,home made jerky,dried fruits,cliff bars. Lunch was just bigger portions of snacks.
Breakfast was instant oats,cliff bar or dried fruits,jerky and electrolyte drink.

Problem is. Calories. Your not starving, but sucking down a tbone or pizza ain't on your mind yet......yet. but add up what I consumed.
We did that on day three. Why? 
Well both me and my buddy got the energy roller coaster going.15 minutes of normal hiking,then crash..drag ass..beat tired.
Then,wam . Spike of energy.

We had done 14 miles our first day,and 6 every day after just to have down time at water sources.

32lb ruck, at 2.8 mph for 3-5 hours. That meal plan I had wasn't busting what we burned by hour 2 of the first day lmao. Iirc we we're just shy of 700 calories per day and not exceeding 900. My cut weight,eat right,diet needed to go out the window next menu planning.(I'm low carb,high protien/veggies eater)

All was great till day three....just keep that in mind. As rock said you'll find that zone after a few days. I know to pack a little different next long trip. Food is bulky and heavy.....but needed.

If your going to carry a rifle get a bag with a scabbard, I use an Eberlystock Low Drag because it also limits how much I can carry total and no one can see that I even have a rifle.  Keep to a bullpup or an AR pistol if you really don't want anyone to know.  In you second line I'd add some DOT size trash bags as backup shelter and probably a Sawyer Mini filter. There are times you might have trouble getting that bag filled.  The life boat rations are great but carbs only, I have powdered peanut butter pre measures in bags to add to mine.

I also carry an ohshitkit and a blowout kit.  The ohshitkit is a 1L bottle carrier with 1 life boat ration, powdered peanut butter, 30' 550 cord, 2 DOT trash bags, lighter, wet fires and rod, and a Sawyer mini kit and a leatherman.  If I ever set my pack down the kit goes on my shoulder so that if I loose the pack or get chased off I have a few small things until I can get it back or find new supplies.  They weight very little as an extra but are worth the weight in gold to me.

Having said all that your bag is already setup better than mine and I'm going to follow your lead on a few things.

I'll be the odd man out, for grins.

Food is not a huge concern for 48-72 hours. Certainly not to the point of worrying about variety.

I would suggest folks here experiment with fasting 24-48 hour to learn that hunger is not your master, certainly not for a day or two.

Failing apart if you are more than two hours from a meal is psychological, not physical.

Whether a "GHB" or "BOB" I try to maintain the following criteria (listed in a descending order of importance):

SURVIVAL AREAS OF CONCERN

Defense ... all the kit in the world is no good if someone takes it from you.
Fire ... I've been in a situation where hypothermia was setting in.  It wasn't good. I couldn't function.
IFAK ... Minor injuries can turn septic.  Major injuries can be life threatening.
Shelter ... See comment about hypothermia.
Water ... 3 days without water and you'll die (less if you're sweating a lot).
Food ... Nutrition allows us to think, heal, and move.

WEIGHT ISSUES

I try to keep my bag to less than 40 pounds.   I'm still looking for ways to cut the weight, because ideally I'd rather be closer to 30 pounds.

REDUNDANCY

3 is 2
2 is 1
1 is 0

Having said that, see the comment about bag weight.  The chance of mechanical injury increases as your gear weight increases.

WHAT I'VE FOUND YOU REALLY NEED

Firearm - this is likely to be carried on you, but cleaning supplies are kept in the bag.

Knife - I prefer a two knife system.  One larger fixed blade for heavy chores, and one small detail knife.

Fire - Lighter x2, ferro rod, tinder.

IFAK - Booboo kit (moleskin, bandaids, tweezers, etc), antiseptics, trauma kit (CAT, Izzy, hemostat, ACE, H&H, etc)

Shelter - Wool gloves & hat, USGI poncho, woobie or ultra bag, USGI MSS goretex bivvy, 550 cord

Water - Nalgene 32oz bottles x2, Katadyn pump filter, purification tabs, boiling vessel (see food)

Food [Ready To Eat] - 3600 calorie ration bars x 3 (three days of high calorie intake or 9 days of starvation intake), tea bags x3

Food [Sourced] - fishing line (high test - works for snares too), fishing hooks, mess kit.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

The firearm selection is the biggest challenge.  Trying to decide if you're going to be fighting off hordes of alien squids from the planet Poptart vs trying to fight off starvation in a "The Road" TEOTWAWKI scenario means deciding between a fighting rifle and a 22 rimfire.

Ideally, a person would be able to pack something like a Ruger 10/22 TD with them.  550rds of 22LR will fit in a 16oz Nalgene bottle (keeps your ammo functional if you get rained on, or fall into water).  550rds is a lot of small game hunting, and possibly nuisance defense.

I have fasted for longer than three days in a couple of different situations:

A) I tested it during my routine life (work, home after work, sleep, repeat).
B) I tested it during a strenuous hiking / camping trip.

I found that it was harder to focus with increased physical activity (duh, I know right).

A "survival situation" requiring me to live out of my bag would be strenuous.  However, more importantly the entire concept of a 72hr bag is absolute rubbish. FEMA developed the 72 hour concept, and everyone repeats it.  What happens if "normalcy isn't restored" in 3 days?  Research the "72 hours to animal" theory, and you'll be carrying bags of rice with you.

To my thinking there are three types of survival gear that will help a person endure a hardship:

#1 - Expendables ... these are things like packaged food, purification tablets, ammo.  This is stuff you "use up".  If used wisely these items can be stretched longer than 72 hours, but will eventually be depleted.
#2 - Durables ... these are items like your knife and poncho.  If maintained, these items will last for a very long time.
#3 - Experience ... the greatest "survival kit" is carried in your head.  Simply owning a ferro rod isn't enough.  Try using the blasted thing in heavy rain and wind.  You'll end up putting a couple of lighters in your bag (ask me how I know).  Ever try fishing with improvised equipment?  How about making fuzzy sticks, tinder bundles, cleaning fish / squirrels / birds?

Please don't take my comments as asshatery.  I've been involved in survival related experimentation, training, et. al since 1983...and have learned a couple of things along the way.

You might just be missing the point of a GHB (Get Home Bag), It's to get you back to your bags of rice.  I also think the idea of a bug out bag is a last, I'm freaking screwed already, option.  On the other side if my home is getting overrun I want some crap to carry away.

Those of us that work a long way from home or, like myself, work a large area that can have us 30-60 miles from home on a daily basis want some crap to get us back.  I have kids that are going to need as the situation falls apart.

A short term "bug-home" situation doesn't really require any food, just plenty of water.  HOWEVER, even fasting, you really need to limit your activities.  Yes, cutting food intake for just 48-72 hours is truly mostly psychological...but that's the whole point as to why you want a few snacks, calories, protein, and basic nutrition.  Mental mistakes are your biggest concerns, not physical.  With the added stress of a seriously dangerous situation, you want your full mental capacity and attention to deal with the stressors of a potentially hostile environment, adverse weather conditions, the physical challenges of going from an air-conditioned office to bushwhacking in extreme temperatures.

Believe me, from my younger years of doing a ton of patrolling and field exercises to distance backpacking, a little nutrition and food goes a long way to avoiding stupid decisions, preventing mechanical injuries, dealing with stress, and staying focused on the issues that could cause you serious injury or death.  Don't just throw out "try fasting" when in the comfort of your home or office environment; try it when doing a full day of physical labor, trekking 10-12 miles, rinse and repeat...I guarantee the mental aspects will be far harder to deal with than the physical effects on your body...and your mental capacity is what keeps you alive.

No, you don't need a full freeze-dried meal or MRE, but a handful of energy bars, a little trail mix, or even a lifeboat ration are compact, small and provide that extra edge to keep your mind off your stomach and on the tasks at hand.

ROCK6

I'm feeling you, and understand your logic.  Until two years ago my one-direction drive to work was 51 minutes on highways.  I also lived 0.7 miles off a paved road, on 11 acres, with a full organic farm.

My position is ... there isn't a difference between a GHB & BOB.  If you need to get home something has gone wrong, and there might not be a house when you get there.  Alternatively, whatever "it" was that prompted your route home may have blocked your route.

This ^^^

Just to clarify:

I'm 100% for "bugging in" or "getting home and staying there" until my home becomes absolutely untenable.  The idea of leaving the relative comfort, security and resources of my home are a recipe for failure.  Anyone who advocates (or plans to) run to the woods at the first sign of trouble:  has not invested serious thought into the subject; has fallen victim to grotesquely romanticized versions of survival; poorly chose where to live (if "bugging out" is the ONLY viable way of surviving).

GHB vs BOB

1) The human condition does not change.  We need: defense, fire, shelter, water and food to survive.  The magical 3 days or 3000 days will not change this.

2) Murphy is an ass, and your best laid plans are subject to fail.  If you weren't the sort of person that was concerned about periphery issues why are you reading this now?

3) Logic follows:  I need defense/fire/shelter/water/food to survive.  My plan of skipping home unassailed may not work.  My home may not be there or may not be accessible.  At this point all I have to survive is what I have on me.  Therefore, my GHB may instantly become my BOB.  Thus, I should plan accordingly and have the provisions needed to survive.

ETA:

The above is unaffected by the distance you live from work.  It does not matter if you live 1 mile from work or 50 miles (the purpose of a GHB/BOB is to plan for the worst case scenario).  The fact is, if you plan on leaving your house ... you may never be able to return.

Not at all.  

I am just pointing out the fascination that many folks have with food and the fear of hunger pains.

Seriously... for a 40 mile hike, why not a bicycle?

When I had a single subdivision 50 miles out that was ok, but having jobs all over 4 counties now and having to move materials a bike isn't an option. 

If you have the option a bike is the best way to go.

I had a long drive to work today and thought about this. I struggled to come of with a realistic reason to walk 40 miles home, but maybe I am missing something. I enjoy the mental exercise and the boy scout in me wants to be prepared,  what are some of the reasons you guys would walk home?
Thanks!

It's just a "worse-case" scenario.  For reference, there are several reasons outside of the major zombie-virus SHTF.

Although I just stayed at work 25 miles from home, the local law enforcement shut down all the roads due to a major ice storm a couple years ago; the Army installation actually stopped traffic in and out of the gate for all but emergency personnel.  It was short term, but demonstrated that your vehicle isn't always an available option but it's still good to have an emergency bag in the vehicle (I just slept in my office).  

In a somewhat "urban" setting, the day after 9.11, I literally had to park my truck off-post and walk about five miles into work.  Traffic was an absolute mess as was access to the installation.  For those that work in an already congested urban environment, having a bicycle or plan to hike out on foot is really prudent planning.

We also had a bad storm that knocked down trees and power lines across the road.  I parked a mile up the road and walked home (didn't need the get-home bag that day).  

Growing up, the road to our home was shut down for a week due to a serious mud slide; inconvenient, but not a significant distance to park and walk.

A few here I know have been affected by flooding; damaged bridges or making access roads impassable.  

It doesn't have to be blue-hat road blocks or that pending EMP attack that disables every electron in the nation.  A get home bag designed for foot travel is more an exercise in planning then execution; it's definitely one of those items that is "better to have and not need, than need and not have".

ROCK6

Here an earth quake is most likely.  All major traffic goes through a couple main arteries and at the county line (basically) in 3 spots there are only 1-2 major roads with 1-2 small back roads.  If an earth quake knocks out 2 or more bridges road traffic is over until UDOT moves the cars that ran out of gas off and clears the derbies from the bridges.  This could be 2+ weeks before ANY traffic can move.  Routine maintenance on the power grid will suffer and the lights could very likely go out for weeks.

Is this long term SHTF?  No, but its a really big short term problem.  I have kids that need me home and the only transport would be the Nike Express.  This is just one example.

For you this could be as simple are 2 hurricanes (I'm assuming you are actually in Florida) hitting you at the same time.  I know that you deal with them all the time but a bad emergency manager could cause you a world of problems.

- Road blocks
- Natural disaster makes driving impossible
- Social break down makes your car a bullet magnet
- EMP disables your car
- Your tires are shot out or damaged by debris (earthquake, tornado, etc)

Use your imagination.  Nobody wants to walk home...they may be required to do so.

I have to disagree with your order.  
(X)Defense is a variable.  It may be #1 or #6 on this list.  Stuck in a snowstorm--getting shot is not a major concern!
1. Shelter (including clothing).  Maintaining core body temp is critical to life.
2. Water. Dehydration can kill you by itself, but it also reduces your mental and physical capacity before that.  
3. Food.  Necessary long term, but extremely helpful for short term performance.
4. Medical. (Somewhat an X category.  You may or may not need it.  If you do, it may or may not be high priority.)
5. Fire.  Surprisingly, it's not as vital as people think.  If your shelter/water/food needs are met, it winds up being mostly psychological.  Fire should be viewed as a tool, not a need.

I really like your kit bag version 2.0...  It seemed like you first variety was way overloaded for what a kit bag is meant.  I try to keep mine light and comfortable.

That said I keep my GHB light and fast.  I don't keep any food in it, even though I have just over a 30 mile trek home.  I keep extra food and snacks in my locker at work and could grab and go as needed.  I can also grab them for that unexpected double shift.

For me lately I have really been comparing and contrasting realistic vs fantasy, reality vs fiction...  I have just begun a major re-engineering of my BOB to fit a more realistic scenario.  Think wild land fire or serious weather event that has you grabbing and going on the move.  I want something that can supplement me at a family or friends house, maybe a hotel, or worst case a shelter.  in my AO going to live in the woods is a fantasy.  I have a very remote family cabin, but unless its a working homestead prior to the zombie apocalypse, chances of making it one post, are highly unlikely IMHO.

Bugging in is plan A, but as we all know its best to have plan B & C...  I am moving to a modular plan B, something that can be adapted to each situation on the fly.  A base line of gear that can be added to or subtracted from depending on what is happening around you.  Maybe even add the primary BOB to a larger BOB set and plan all dependent on situation.

Regardless any bug out plan for TEOTWAWKI that has me requiring anything more then a couple bricks of ramin, some power bars and other quick grab and go meals probably has had me bugging in for a last stand long time prior.  I would always do what's necessary, but should it be WROL I have several contingencies here at home base I plan to employ prior to heading for the "woods."  

About 15lbs is all i want to lug for any scenario.

A 100 oz water bladder weighs 6.5lbs alone. At least youll be drinking it and eleviating that weight as you near your destination.

I work off of that philosophy. Im older now and I dont train enough anymore to consider more weight.

If youre in your 20s and fit like a young marine, go for it.

There are some hard truths about this.  I still do work out daily and ramp up for a longer backpacking trip, but if my total pack weight is over 30-35 pounds, it does affect my distance and makes recovery harder.  The honest assessment is on the individual; I know what I can do and I know what I can sustain.  Add in rougher conditions, more extreme temps, and a more "uncertain hostile" environment and the effects could be far worse.  I do get jealous now that my son can take a 50 pound pack and go run six miles...I like to think I'm far smarter these days

ROCK6

I have read your posts and followed your advice through the years. You're more of a been there done that kind of guy than me, as you keep going.

I believe, I recall, in the past you referring to civilian packs with proper suspensions for people who are pros and want to hike, like the Apalachian trail, and there is alot to be learned by that. I know many of those packs arent tacticool though. I think greyman concept in most of these scenarios is the way to go, and it lends to a lower profile and more importantly comfort and proper load suspension for maximum capability.

A tacticool 3 day pack is not the way to go for me. A 1 mile hump for me with a 3 day assault pack becomes murder in short order with 20lbs in it. Alice gear is outdated but at least there is a frame which helps and is more easily carried IME. I have both and have used both, they collect dust.

These days I rely on a camelbak Hawg and try to not over burden it with weight. Its somewhat comfy and doable if you keep the weight low. My get home distances are 20 to 40 miles, Im surrounded by rural and urban sprawl, so it works for me.

Bugout is a whole other story and requires me to have supplies and a wife and young child in tow, along with a vehicle for extended supplies. I prefer not to be a refugee though.

Everyones situation is different so YMMV.

Thanks for the followup Rock6. Your opinions and input are well respected.