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Link Posted: 4/8/2015 5:55:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: machinegunseabee] [#1]
I'm revisiting this thread to offer more of my experience up.

I keep seeing these threads on AR15.com asking about what "tactical" watch or what heavy duty watch to get etc etc

Simply put I have seen more Casio G Shocks, Timex Iron Mans and Suunto Cores than anything else. People buy and use them because they work and they don't fuck up all that often.

I have had the same Casio G Shock GW6900-1 with a band mounted little brigade QM compass since 2010. Best watch I have ever used that fills the requirement of a watch to be used in pretty much every third world shithole on the planet. I've only replaced the band once and that was due to ripping it when I was PTing and had the band to tight so my fault.

It gets a radio signal from the atomic clocks to stay updated, multi time zones pre programmed so you just select the one you want, alarms, countdown and stopwatch features. Charges via solar and had illumination at the push of a button.

G Shocks are some times issued as standard equipment to specific people in the Navy because they are cost effective and work. Which doesn't make them the end all be all but they are in expensive for what you get and they work.

If you are worried about EMP or simply want to wind a watch or love the aspect of a mechanical watch go for it just know its limitations. I think Citizens Eco drive is ok I've only seen a few people have those but they didn't get their hands dirty.

So word the to wise, you want a watch that works and works and just works and doesn't cost an arm and a leg get a G Shock or a Timex Iron Man. Want to spend some more get a Suunto Core.

Also if you need to blend in slapping on your favorite giant ass G Shock might not be the best idea depending on where you are going. But for everyday, beat up, no maintenance time piece they are hard to beat. (No I don't own any interest in Casio)
Link Posted: 4/8/2015 6:03:09 PM EDT
[#2]
read the entire post, thanks!  good input.


Link Posted: 5/27/2015 7:44:21 AM EDT
[#3]
Great post With lots of info Thankyou for taking the time to write it amd Thankyou for your service. I have a question about the peltor comtac, does the whole headset work as a radio or do you need to get a radio also, and if so what kind? I was looking at the peltor comtac III and I guess my question is would all I have to do is buy 2 of those to be able to communicate with it one for my bag one for my wife's.
Link Posted: 5/27/2015 7:06:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: machinegunseabee] [#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MolonLabeFBHO:
Great post With lots of info Thankyou for taking the time to write it amd Thankyou for your service. I have a question about the peltor comtac, does the whole headset work as a radio or do you need to get a radio also, and if so what kind? I was looking at the peltor comtac III and I guess my question is would all I have to do is buy 2 of those to be able to communicate with it one for my bag one for my wife's.
View Quote


Thanks I am trying flush my mind of little tidbits of info as time passes.

Peltor comtac is a military headset that is available for attachment to a wide range of radios. They don't have a built in radio one that I know of in the real deal comtac line.

I was issued and use a single radio comtac headset and it was connected to a MBITR or 152 depending on what was a not taken already.

They work great!

If you want to spend the coin they are worth it but you have to purchase the proper adapters for the radios you want to use, I.e. Motorola Jedi, etc

They are great to hear ambient noise and talk with people when wearing them, they do block out noise effectively, battery life is good, they do not hit the sides of a helmet much due to their shape.

You can't beat them for what they are IMHO. There are lots of models out there to purchase just remember you have to get the appropriate adapters for the radio you'll be using.

Another thought is you could use (although not as effective) is use a set of sure fire ear pro and use a surveillance earpiece in one ear and leave the other ones little hole open. You will be able to hear ambient noise out of one ear and the radio in another and if you start shooting you will have protection since the sure fire ear pros little valve closes automatically. I know it's not as effective but for certain low visibility situations this may work for you if you don't have or can't have a suppressor.

I'm not an expert on radios so I would visit the ham forum here since I think this subject of comtacs has been discussed before.
Link Posted: 1/28/2016 9:14:41 AM EDT
[#5]
Bump for a good thread
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 6:50:06 AM EDT
[#6]
I can't find anything to disagree with, but just think one point could use more emphasis:
Originally Posted By machinegunseabee:
K.Boots and footwear are important, get some that work for your feet I have worn out Rocky and Bates quickly. Bellville boots are good and will last a long time. Broken in footwear is better for a call out / ready bag. Get some decent socks as well.
View Quote

To quote and old football coach, Durability is an ability. Not just for the gear, but also for your feet. If you can't be on your feet for 12+ hours without them aching, take a long hard look at your footwear. Something isn't right about it. The apparent modern trend towards softer soles is actually hurting most of us. While it might feel good walking from your office desk to the break room, you need more rigid support to last long term. Personally, I still find old fashion GI combat boots, or the "jungle" boots, hard to beat.
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 1:02:24 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bbies1973:
I can't find anything to disagree with, but just think one point could use more emphasis:

To quote and old football coach, Durability is an ability. Not just for the gear, but also for your feet. If you can't be on your feet for 12+ hours without them aching, take a long hard look at your footwear. Something isn't right about it. The apparent modern trend towards softer soles is actually hurting most of us. While it might feel good walking from your office desk to the break room, you need more rigid support to last long term. Personally, I still find old fashion GI combat boots, or the "jungle" boots, hard to beat.
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Originally Posted By bbies1973:
I can't find anything to disagree with, but just think one point could use more emphasis:
Originally Posted By machinegunseabee:
K.Boots and footwear are important, get some that work for your feet I have worn out Rocky and Bates quickly. Bellville boots are good and will last a long time. Broken in footwear is better for a call out / ready bag. Get some decent socks as well.

To quote and old football coach, Durability is an ability. Not just for the gear, but also for your feet. If you can't be on your feet for 12+ hours without them aching, take a long hard look at your footwear. Something isn't right about it. The apparent modern trend towards softer soles is actually hurting most of us. While it might feel good walking from your office desk to the break room, you need more rigid support to last long term. Personally, I still find old fashion GI combat boots, or the "jungle" boots, hard to beat.


What works for hiking isn't always true when walking around on concrete. I wear Timberland Pro's at work and they are some of the most comfortable boots around. I wore them at my old job walking on concrete 12-14 hours a day, and my feet never felt better. Since I live in a suburban area and work in an urban area, if I'm walking, its on concrete. The soft, thick soles cushion your steps since the concrete is so unyielding.
Link Posted: 4/7/2016 3:12:39 PM EDT
[#8]
Don't let this go away
Link Posted: 6/24/2016 12:21:32 AM EDT
[#9]
Keeping the topic alive
Link Posted: 6/26/2016 4:30:30 PM EDT
[#10]
Tourniquets(TQ).

In my OP I said carry two to three of them, but never went into how to carry them. A recent post by someone asking for a pouch to hold one made me think of this thread again.

I was issued both CAT and SOFT types and purchased a few more CATs for my day bag. For the CATs I used an AWS INC multipurpose pouch with a T marked on it. This protects the device and keeps it handy.

For the SOFT I used riggers bands as many of us have and even had one on the butt stock of my issued weapon (SOPMOD).

I would recommend a pouch over the rubber bands and the simpler the better avoid anything complicated, I like this pouch because its simple i.e. pull lid open, pull TQ out. Carry a blue sharpie marker with you in your blowout kit so others can mark you and write on you or your TCCC tag. Also if you have the room in your shit carry more than the ones to be used on you, shit happens.

A MUST DO is to keep them accessible by both hands either by placement on the shoulder straps on your PC, Armor or chest rig or in a dedicated pouch on the upper chest. Guys have died because they couldn't reach their TQ for self aid, one of my buds had a friend bleed out from a mine strike on a ATV because he couldn't get to his TQ.

Some pics below of the CAT in the pouch I used.

The only TQs I have ever seen issued are the CAT and the SOFT versions.




Link Posted: 8/13/2016 8:54:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: machinegunseabee] [#11]


This knife (Ka Bar Mk1) as pictured earlier in this thread has survived two combat deployments and is now in the hands of a Navy SERE instructor whom I passed it onto several months ago. This knife is performing very well since 2012 when it was first fielded by me and continues to perform for the instructor day in and day out completing all kinds of tasks from baton cutting wood, 550 cord, starting fires with ferro rods, cutting brush down for cover, skinning and butchering small game and digging.

I can recommend this knife the Ka Bar Mk1 non serrated (Ka Bar item number 2221) as a very good production field knife for really just about anyone in need of a knife. The blade is easy to sharpen, the sheath is ambidextrous and has retention via two straps and a retention bump on the sheath at the hilt. Handle is comfortable and although the finish is a baked on and does scrape off with hard use its nothing spray paint can't fix.

At a price around $50ish dollars if you look around this is a knife worth the money for what you get from it. Besides being good at many tasks it does serve the purpose of being a fixed blade that can handle rough and tumble without being super big and scaring the hand wringing communists within the ranks.

No I don't get paid by Ka Bar.

Link Posted: 8/13/2016 10:31:47 PM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 8/13/2016 10:57:33 PM EDT
[#13]
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Originally Posted By raf:
glad to see you adding to your thread.
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Trying to keep it going with every little thought that crosses my mind. I hope in some aspects I saved some people money but more importantly maybe someones life. I am retired now so my experiences may become dated.
Link Posted: 8/14/2016 8:32:52 AM EDT
[#14]
Link Posted: 8/17/2016 7:46:04 AM EDT
[#15]
Subscribing. This thread is fantastic and is making me rethink some of my gear Thank you very much.
Link Posted: 3/30/2017 3:39:09 PM EDT
[#16]
bumpski
Link Posted: 4/9/2017 10:02:52 PM EDT
[#17]
Instructions for making the sling?
Link Posted: 4/11/2017 6:45:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: machinegunseabee] [#18]
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Originally Posted By cap6888:
Instructions for making the sling?
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I will try to get some pictures up when I get a chance but you will need the following;

1. An ALICE pack quick adjust shoulder strap does not matter which shoulder
2. You plain old boring black web parade sling

Basic steps

1. Remove the quick adjust part from the shoulder strap via the old school quick disconnect. You will now have the cam adjuster buckle, the adjustment strap that is looped at one end and a tail of webbing with a metal rectangular loop that is sewn to the cam adjuster. Do not cut off any thing or cut open the loop.

2. Grab your parade sling and make sure you have the webbing slid thru both of the metal trip glide locks one time. If you were looking at the metal trip glide from the side you would weave the webbing up thru, over the middle bar and down the rabbit hole on the other side.

3. Grab the quick adjust webbing assembly and grasp it where you can work with the metal loop. Take your parade sling and get it thru the metal loop, the loop is 1" and the parade sling is 1 1/4" but that 1/4" wont matter much. Then weave the parade sling back thru the metal tri glide on the parade sling over top the sling webbing so it locks the webbing in place.

4. Take the loop part of the quick adjust webbing and insert it thru the sling swivel on your AR either bottom or the side. Take the tail of the parade sling and put it thru the loop on the quick adjust webbing and pull it all the way thru.

5. Take the bitter end (tail) of the parade sling and loop it thru the butt stock sling slot of your AR. Weave the bitter end (tail) thru the metal trip glide in the sam manner as before.

6. Finish it up with zip ties or electrical tape.

It does not give as much adjustment as a purpose built sling, however I have used it on M16's and M4's with no problems and does not require sewing.

The older method that was first used was a grease gun sling vs. the parade sling.
Link Posted: 5/7/2017 5:12:48 AM EDT
[#19]
Very good stuff... more please if you can come up with more. Thank you for your insight.
Link Posted: 5/7/2017 5:29:46 AM EDT
[#20]
Thanks for taking the time to type all this down
Link Posted: 5/14/2017 10:57:51 PM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By USSRangerSM:
Thanks for taking the time to type all this down
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I'll say. This is excellent first hand, real world experience that will benefit anyone who chooses to apply it.
Link Posted: 6/21/2017 1:32:36 AM EDT
[#22]
Originally Posted By machinegunseabee:
After 17.5 years in the military I have learned some lessons about gear in no particular order I just started typing out my thoughts and experiences on the subject. I decided to post them here so maybe someone would benefit from my experiences as some of it may be useful for the prepared American.

Some General Rules;
1.Simplicity is best when it comes to most gear, either simple to operate or simply constructed and preferably both.
2.Two is one & one is none.
3.The philosophy of better to have it and not need than need it and not have it is a good one. Just remember you have to move all this shit yourself.
4.If it looks stupid or ghey but it works for you it’s not stupid or ghey.
5.Mark your shit with your name, all of it… unless you don’t want your name on it for whatever reason.

A.Deployment Bags aka dead hooker bags of all shapes and sizes. Generally the fewer pockets it has it better. It needs shoulder straps and wheels are nice but not necessary. Don’t get a huge one and don’t get a small one and always carry an extra aviators kit bag or duffle bag in case you have to pack fast, you can throw your extra shit in there without packing it like a Tetris game. Those eagle creek packing cubes work great for round duffle bags. AWS Inc. and the North Face heavy duty duffles are awesome, they are also kind of a low key way of transporting your shit as you will look like every other joe that shops at REI.

B.On the subject of packs you cannot beat the old school ALICE pack and a Three day assault pack. The less straps the better. If you are looking for a modern turnkey ALICE pack look at the Tactical Tailor MALICE V2 Kit for a Large size and a Spec Ops Brand Recon Ruck for a bit smaller. The frames from Tactical Assault Gear and Tactical Tailor are good modern welded ones. I still have the old riveted ones but have been looking at those for a replacement. If you have the room in your load out bag a small beavertail style hydration pack is a good extra piece of kit. Look hard at some of the civilian style packs as well, they work really well for what they are and would suit most people vs. the ALICE style pack. If you are worried about color there is Rit Dye and Krylon if you must.

C.A knife, the simpler the better. Don’t get fancy but buy quality and for god’s sake do not get a serrated blade it’s a pain in the ass to sharpen in the field. You don’t need a USMC KaBar but you don’t need a paring knife. Most of the time a high quality folder will do and pack two just in case you drop one. If you want a fixed blade go with a smaller knife like a KaBar Mk1, SOG Seal Pup Elite or Benchmade Nimravus. They can all be had with a ambidextrous scabbard, are light weight and are just about the right size for most tasks. Speaking of knives carry a fucking sharpener please.

D.Multi tool, Leatherman is the original but I find myself having a Gerber or SOG most of the time and after 17.5 years of abusing these types of tools… I still have my original blunt nose Gerber tool. SOG is good and tough; the tools can be customized to your liking by ordering the components from SOG. BTW removable bits are nice but I have had so many problems with the spring retention and the bits themselves.

E.Flashlights, down range CR123 are out there but if you have to purchase your own get stuff that is AA. There are Flashlights that are LED like 4 Sevens that use AA and have a tail cap that work fine just get the spare tailcap kit. Get a headlamp that is multipurpose as well, I was issued a Princeton Tech but purchased a Streamlight Sidewinder 2 and it takes AA and CR123. It can go on a helmet, head band or your vest and it super simple to use with gloves. Oh and the Maglite Mini Mag AA is still going strong.

F.Weapons, I just used what was issued to me but I can offer some advice ;

i.Get or put a cleaning kit together
ii.Keep it clean
iii.Simple is better in all aspects of a weapons system
iv.An optic is better than no optic but if you are stuck with iron sights a carry handle is best
v.AIMPOINT, EO TECH, TRIJICON and ELCAN are legit kit. If you can’t afford anything else get a AIMPOINT PRO and get a good rear iron sight like a Knights, ARMS etc.
vi.LMT SOPMOD Buttstock is awesome
vii.CQD rear and front sling mounting points are worth the money and time to install
viii.A Surefire scout is a good weapon light and the tape switch you can put on the rail is best.
ix.You don’t need a forward grip but it’s nice to have
x.Slings, two point slings that are VTAC, Vickers or Redi Mag are the best to use in my experience. Mind you I am not a shooter but even in the small amount of CQC shooting training I got a two point still works. If you find yourself walking around without a armor vest of some kind I would go with the VTAC or the LBT lightweight 2 Quick Adjust Two point. You can cinch them up tight against your body.
xi.Suppressors are money, if you can purchase one they are worth it.
xii.If you have a NOD you will probably want a IR Laser or at least an illuminator.
xiii.The Redi-Mag is nice if you are a Police Officer on a patrol rifle or a home owner who will use a AR for self-defense since it keeps more rounds with the gun. If you are out hiking, humping the boonies or doing some dynamic shit with lots of running around and stuff for an extended time it’s not worth the extra weight.
xiv.Spray painting your rifle may or may not be to your benefit, it depends on what you are doing and where.
xv.Guns break carry two or at least carry spare critical components. I could not carry spares or a pistol for the majority of my time on active duty but my personal SHTF AR has a spare bolt with it. I also carry concealed when legal and prudent.
xvi.Magazines are disposable invest in Brownells or Magpul for your AR. In factory mags we trust for pistols or MECGAR.
xvii.You don’t need a pistol lanyard
xviii.You want a durable holster with retention, either a BlackHawk CQC or a Safariland Holster with ALS or the bail. Both have their place and are useful don’t be a hater.
xix.Concealed carry holsters are fine just remember you have to train how you fight so drawing from concealment with a  dry gun is prudent.
xx.You don’t need rails on a pistol
xxi.A pistol light is not necessary for most but if you do run one, buy a Safariland holster that fits it.
xxii.Night sights are money
xxiii.Pistols, 1911’s and Berettas are cool but I would stick with Glock or Sig 9mm, they are easy to operate, reliable and they don’t come standard with safetys. 9mm is cheaper than most rounds and will put someone down just like other bullets. If you are in a 10 round mag state maybe .40 or .45 would be more appropriate as to not have that wasted space in the grip.

G.Body armor is awesome; wear it correctly like keeping your plates high as is make sure it covers your vitals. BTW you don’t need to cover every MOLLE strap with some pouch, that shit is heavy.
i.A Hydration pouch on the back of it is money
ii.Carry what you need and no more.
iii.For the prepped American Low Vis carrier is the way to go for most situations i.e. walk softly and carry a big stick. Don’t forget your spouse or kids you have to include them in your plans.
iv.Work out with your shit on or at least practice reloads and moving around, especially in and out of vehicles
v.MOLLE Pouches; if you want to save some cash don’t worry about matching color shades and shit. Just purchase some on sale that work for multipurpose shit, examples include using Specter Gear universal mag pouches, Tactical Tailor large utility pouches for hydration or water bottles and Spec Ops brand medical pouches. No one will care about the exact shade of Coyote or Khaki when lead is flying.
vi.If you can’t afford plates or armor don’t get a armor carrier or plate carrier to put all your shit on, get a chest vest. In fact if you are going low vis get a chest vest anyway so it is well low vis under a large shirt with or without a low vis plate carrier or armor vest.

H.Your Medical equipment should not be more advanced that you or your buddies skill level
i.Carry two or three tourniquet’s
ii.Get trained and practice
iii.Simple and labeled is better; I use a LBT small blow out kit pouch with a zipper closure. There are no elastic straps holding shit in, I put it all in a plastic bag. You could do the same in two smaller bags and label them or whatever.
iv.Boo boo kit and OTC meds are a must.

I.Survival Kits should be worn at all times and a layered approach is best when it comes to various components.
i.Build it yourself or if you purchase it at least take inventory and familiarize yourself with it
ii.Replace consumables or components that could be compromised but wear every 6 months or so
iii.Carry signaling equipment in your first line, second line and third line
iv.Carry a way to make fire in your first line, second line and third line
v.Carry a knife
vi.Carry a way to hold and make water safe to drink
vii.Carry a earth colored pair of gloves and a Balaclava to camo or subdue your skin color
viii.Wear a wrist compass and have a baseplate compass on you

J.Milspec Canteens or Nalgene bottles made of HDPE are the best water carriers if you insist on a bottle of some sort. Make sure you have a cup to boil water in.

K.Boots and footwear are important, get some that work for your feet I have worn out Rocky and Bates quickly. Bellville boots are good and will last a long time. Broken in footwear is better for a call out / ready bag. Get some decent socks as well.

L.Clothing should be well fitting and durable in construction. Again your operating environment will determine what you choose. Cargo pants are popular all over the place so you could get away with them most of the time with some work shirts.
i.Your clothing should blend in your environment or be a good solution to multiple environmental situations i.e. a rural setting where you may be in close proximity to a suburb work clothes from carhartt might be a good choice.
ii.Winter or foul weather clothing should be a color that does not attract attention like the grey PCU layer systems for example.
iii.I wouldn’t carry more than three sets of clothing i.e. trousers and shirts and I would make your shirts long sleeve. You can always roll them up.
iv.Gloves wear out, have two sets
v.A sewing kit and some super glue will go a long way
vi.The layered approach is better than a bulky jacket
vii.Dress warm rather than cool or at least pack the layers in your pack or bag
viii.Have a hat or two
ix.Carry a watchcap / beenie even if you don’t think its cold
x.A sturdy belt is a must especially for a pistol holster

M.Hygiene is important you should probably carry a small hygiene kit in your big bag and some hand sanitizer and foot power in your little pack if you are out and about.

N.Night vision is awesome get some even if it’s a Gen 1, at least you can observe
i.If you have the money get a good unit like a PVS-14 from a reputable dealer
ii.Get a helmet mount and arm for it
iii.If you don’t have a need for a ballistic helmet I wouldn’t worry about it just get the OPS Core bump helmet. Its light weight and has a build in mount or you could go with the TNVC bump helmets.

O.Hearing protection is a must if you plan on doing any extensive shooting. Peltor soundtrap or other electronic muffs are the best choice. If you can spend the coin a set of Peltor COMTACs are worth it.
i.Speaking of COMTACS or other communication headsets, they are a wise investment if you have the radios to go with them. Radios would be worth their weight if you are operating or moving in vehicles or on foot regardless.
ii.Low visibility again you may want to look at earpieces or some other thing like that.

P.Tents and shelter; if you are traveling with family a tent maybe the thing to get. Keep it simple and durable. Practice setting it up. If you are traveling alone a bivy sack maybe the way to go. If you are sheltering in place or have kids some tarps and insect netting would be a good thing.

Q.Batteries are a must; minimize the amount you have to carry by using devices that use the same type. Keep different batteries to a minimum.

R.Tools; if you are using a car or motor vehicle for transport it would be a good idea to have some basics. Trying to fix your shit with a fucking Gerber at 1 am with a flashlight in your teeth is stupid if you don’t have to. Fixing your shit with a proper tool and a LED lantern is probably a better idea. Weight is a consideration so choose wisely and tools that work for most situations.

S.Chem lights are handy, make sure you have good ones stocked and in the wrapper. The uses are varied and they are safe in a house with small kids. Keep the wrapper intact to put a activated one back in should the need arise.

Hope this helps someone not spend a shit ton of money they dont need to.
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Thanks for the refresher, it always good to have a methodical checklist from real world experience. Be safe in your travels, the job is still open if and when you decide to make the change.
Link Posted: 6/21/2017 9:20:46 AM EDT
[#23]
Great post, thanks for the insight and your service.
Link Posted: 7/8/2017 9:37:21 PM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By machinegunseabee:
This is solid advice, just make sure they don't fog up
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Originally Posted By machinegunseabee:
Originally Posted By ilike9s:

Also if you are moving at in the wood wear safety glasses!
This is solid advice, just make sure they don't fog up
Rub a dry bar of Ivory soap all over the lenses, like you're using a crayon, and buff it off with dry cloth. Works great!

Great thread!
Link Posted: 1/5/2018 7:07:08 PM EDT
[#25]
he forgot the mule or 2 slaves needed to carry all that crud. He's talking over 100 lbs of stuff. Need a mountain bike to carry it all, as you walk along side of it.  Best figure on caching 2/3rds of that stuff at the BoL or along your route, or you'll sprain an ankle or pull a calf muscle before you cover 5 miles of rough terrain.
Link Posted: 1/5/2018 10:15:16 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By usus:
he forgot the mule or 2 slaves needed to carry all that crud. He's talking over 100 lbs of stuff. Need a mountain bike to carry it all, as you walk along side of it.  Best figure on caching 2/3rds of that stuff at the BoL or along your route, or you'll sprain an ankle or pull a calf muscle before you cover 5 miles of rough terrain.
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Already covered it when I started this thread;

"3.The philosophy of better to have it and not need than need it and not have it is a good one. Just remember you have to move all this shit yourself."

I would hope no one is carrying everything I listed, it's not a packing list by any means, it's a list of ideas and things I have found handy or have worked for me.

Caching is a great idea that more people should do.
Link Posted: 1/8/2018 11:25:44 AM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By usus:
he forgot the mule or 2 slaves needed to carry all that crud. He's talking over 100 lbs of stuff. Need a mountain bike to carry it all, as you walk along side of it.  Best figure on caching 2/3rds of that stuff at the BoL or along your route, or you'll sprain an ankle or pull a calf muscle before you cover 5 miles of rough terrain.
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That's what the wimmin folk be for. Haulin' stuff around in the Post Apoc.
Link Posted: 1/8/2018 11:53:18 AM EDT
[#28]
Awesome, thanks for sharing.
Link Posted: 2/7/2018 1:24:52 PM EDT
[#29]
Last ditch survival equipment.

I believe in being as prepared as possible and Col. Nick Rowe’s (RIP) idea of layering survival equipment along with my experience in 1st, 2nd and 3rd Line gear setup and use in the Navy was my inspiration. My last several years in the Navy, I made an effort to perfect a small last-ditch survival kit. This kit was never meant to be over a 72 hours kit. I based it on and used most of the parts of an older Adventure Medical Kits Pocket Survival Pack. I did this many years ago so it’s a bit of a dated kit with the outer bag. The assumption with this kits use is I have a knife or multi tool on me, which I did everyday I was in uniform. I chose this kit due to its size so I could fit it in my upper arm pocket without much of a thought and I could carry it EVERY DAY.

What I kept from the original kit:
The plastic bag/pouch
Spark lite fire starter
Whistle
Waterproof survival instructions
4 fish hooks
Fresnel magnifier
Sterile scalpel
Signal mirror
Snap swivel
2 Split Shots
4 Tinder Quick
Waterproof paper
Spool of thick thread
Sewing needle
Hank of cord
Duct tape
Safety Pins

What I added:
Cut down no. 2 pencil
Small wrist / watch band compass
Strip of Velcro wrap
Brass wire
Water purification tabs
Whirl-pack bag (1 liter)
Small Nalgene vial
Streamlight NANO
Small piece of electrical tape
A few more tinder quick tabs
A few more safety pins

First I took the kit apart and discarded the stainless steel wire, foil, contact card, tiny thin pencil, compass and contents list. Got some ASLE cord I had purchased to make lanyards for what I considered critical items. The signal mirror, whistle, spark lite and bag itself. I used old inner tube to secure the cord from unraveling. For the budget minded person you can use braided masons line and it will work fine.

Next I purchased some water purification tablets.

I cut down a no. 2 pencil I found.

Folded the whirl-pack bag.

Then repacked the kit with the exception of the Velcro wrap and the Streamlight. The Velcro wrap is then placed snugly around the kit to hold the lanyard in place and help keep the kit closed. The Streamlight is on the kits lanyard.

Then an eagle creek small zip pouch is used to cover everything.

Purpose behind the components and why I did certain things:

Let’s start with the outer eagle creek pouch. Its main purpose is to protect the clear bag from abrasion. Secondary is to serve as a carrying container for the kit components when it’s unpacked. Third could be a number of things from an improvised cup to scoop water to a container to hold edibles I find along the way.

Next let’s move to the outside of the kit with this Velcro wrap. Its first purpose is to hold the pouch shut and secure the mini light. Secondary is the keep the watchband compass from getting lost.

Now the contents itself that I added or modified:

The Nalgene vial replaced the hard clear plastic one due to durability because it’s flexible and keeps me from getting poked by the sewing needle and pins. It also allows for a bit of electrical tape to be added and some additional tinder quick tabs. This also holds the small roll of thick thread that came with the original kit.

The cut down no. 2 pencil was simply because the original thin pencil was so thin it would break.

The lanyards on everything serve two purposes; this first is of course to help retain these components. The secondary purpose is to provide a bit more cordage.

The inner tube keeps everything neat and tidy but could be used as a fire starting aid.

I chose brass wire simply because it’s easier to cut down into sections if I need it. The plastic bag I put it in also could be used as another small water or utility container.

The water tabs were chosen because they pack flat and kill most everything in the water.

The whirl pack bag folds up small, holds a liter, can be secured at the opening and is fairly tough.

I ditched the foil, as I didn’t see a need for it in a small kit like this.

Also this kit was augmented with appropriate larger E&E kits where some of the components are in a small belt mounted pouch and spread load across my clothing but those are much more oriented to a deployment lets say in Afghanistan. Remember this is pretty much last ditch kit of survival equipment and needed to be lightweight and small so I could carry it EVERY DAY regardless of location so think back home in Garrison or deployed and augmented.

I still have this kit, but I carry a different one with me everyday now. Some additional thoughts were to add a small fire steel with a lanyard hole for another fire starting aid and/or repackage in a slightly larger inner pouch to get it slimmer.

Without further ado here it is in all its packed glory after a recent change out of the water tabs.





Now unpacked so you can see the details of the components.



Here it is in a Type 3 aka AOR 2 upper arm pocket to give you and idea of how big it is.





I also carried shears pretty much everywhere I went and using a Gerber MOLLE pouch I killed two birds with one stone as far as load carriage. A multi tool and shears.



Link Posted: 3/18/2018 12:21:43 AM EDT
[#30]
bump, great info!
Link Posted: 3/20/2018 11:57:28 PM EDT
[#31]
Great list! All makes perfect sense. Going to go thru my kit and update using some of this.
Link Posted: 3/25/2018 5:46:04 PM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Nameless_Hobo:
A watch cap/beanie/PT cap makes a huge difference in comfort when you are trying to sleep in the cold.
View Quote
Make sure that you actually wear the beanie out in the cold to see how it performs. I've had some that didn't keep the wind out or your head warm.
My personal favorite is the wigwam black poly watch cap. Also, if you're active in the day and get your watch cap sweaty, then camp overnight, the last thing you will want is to wear that wet watch cap at night. Carry a spare to use at night while sleeping. The extra weight is minimal
Link Posted: 3/25/2018 5:46:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: tc556guy] [#33]
Primary water treatment method other than relying on pills and tablets. Filters, boiling, etc. Buy the best your budget can allow.
Link Posted: 3/25/2018 6:42:51 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By tc556guy:

Make sure that you actually wear the beanie out in the cold to see how it performs. I've had some that didn't keep the wind out or your head warm.
My personal favorite is the wigwam black poly watch cap. Also, if you're active in the day and get your watch cap sweaty, then camp overnight, the last thing you will want is to wear that wet watch cap at night. Carry a spare to use at night while sleeping. The extra weight is minimal
View Quote
Solid advice^^^^

Outdoor Research (OR) or Wigwam as mentioned they are the best IMHO that I have used. Really anything with real Polartec fleece or good quality wool is gonna work well.

OR wind blocker fleece works well but it will get soaked with sweat if you work as stated.
Link Posted: 7/27/2018 11:03:27 AM EDT
[#35]
Bumping a great thread.
Link Posted: 8/3/2018 3:49:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: tc556guy] [#36]
Forgot to say, Good list.

So I'll bump and add as a comment that I've taken your general comments over the entirety of the thread and merged them and your pictures into a single document.
If you want, OP, I'll send you a copy and maybe you might think of more stuff to add....
Link Posted: 8/3/2018 6:54:56 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By tc556guy:
Forgot to say, Good list.

So I'll bump and add as a comment that I've taken your general comments over the entirety of the thread and merged them and your pictures into a single document.
If you want, OP, I'll send you a copy and maybe you might think of more stuff to add....
View Quote
Thats pretty cool that you would do that. Sure send it over.
Link Posted: 8/3/2018 8:00:47 PM EDT
[#38]
OP, send me your email; apparently I cant attach a document in a message to you through the site?
Link Posted: 8/9/2018 4:55:31 AM EDT
[#39]
tag
Link Posted: 8/13/2019 8:21:12 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Street_Doc:
Great post, thanks
View Quote
Nothing there I'd disagree with in my limited experience.
Link Posted: 8/15/2019 2:27:24 PM EDT
[#41]
This is great, thanks for sharing.
Link Posted: 4/19/2020 5:15:20 PM EDT
[#42]
Tag
Link Posted: 4/22/2020 11:18:22 AM EDT
[#43]
Lots of good info here. In for the "late" tag!
Link Posted: 7/26/2020 7:54:11 PM EDT
[#44]
Tag !
Link Posted: 7/27/2020 1:22:07 AM EDT
[#45]
Very generous OP. excellent well thought info.
Link Posted: 8/12/2020 11:07:17 PM EDT
[#46]
Did a gear inventory tonight and then found this thread.  Identified a few shortcomings, namely i didnt have a weapons maintenance kit in my 3 day bag!  Thanks for the reminder.
Link Posted: 8/17/2020 5:55:49 PM EDT
[#47]
How did I miss this thread for so long?  I do not recall seeing this thread in the past.  

Thank you to those who keep dredging it up from the bowels of ARFCOM.

Too much info to draw in at once for me so I will slowly absorb what I can and come back later for more!

Bill
Link Posted: 7/6/2021 8:09:12 PM EDT
[#48]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By machinegunseabee:

Don't have the money (or your troop doesn't) or don't want to spend it for a cool guy VTAC sling? No problem just make one out of a silent sling and a ALICE pack strap quick adjust shoulder strap. I still show people how to make them this way because they work and they are cheap. Not as cool or good as a purpose built quick adjust sling like I've talked about before but effective none the less. They enable you to use it as a adjustable carry strap and a shooting aid. There are a few threads on this place on how to do this.

Cliff notes you'll need the following; Alice pack shoulder strap, silent sling or green marksmanship sling, duct or electrical tape and 550 cord.

View Quote


A recent meet up with a ARFCOMER local to me for a deal led me back to this thread.

Here is the sling I was describing earlier in this thread. Its nothing more than an ALICE pack adjustment strap and a old USMC green marksmanship loop sling. You can see how the USMC sling is ran thru the ALICE pack adjustment strap. I used heat shrink for the 550 cord pull so I know what I am grabbing and minimize snagging. I used a 1" piece of elastic for a keeper on the tail.

On this one I have it set up with a SLING DING and QD swivels but you don't need that for it to work.



PS if you are active duty (regardless of branch) do what you have to do to get a seat in SERE its a very valuable class.
Link Posted: 7/10/2021 4:04:45 PM EDT
[#49]
Bump for a good dude and good thread.

Found many uses for my old Petzl headlamp- has red filter, useful to work on stuff with your hands free - illuminate what you’re looking at.

Been a watch cap fan since Bosnia in the 1990s, have a couple merino wool ones. A watch cap and a 1st gen PCU windshirt have been part of my travel kit for years. Middle East to Manhattan, weighs nothing and takes no space.

Love well-made knives, have a Randall, what travels? Benchmade Bushcrafter in the era of my life when those things were in my bailout bag; Leatherman, Spyderco, sometimes a backup to the backup Kershaw I was gifted.

The Salt IIs and Enduras cut just as well as anything else, are less expensive, can be “gifted” if required, and you won’t hurt your feelz when you leave a trail of them behind in vehicles…
Link Posted: 7/12/2021 11:52:32 AM EDT
[#50]
Thanks, @machinegunseabee for writing this up.  I added a number of items to my go back from your list.

Something I've struggled with is outfitting my kids.  I don't intend to put them in harm's way, but in a bugout situation, you can't predict where the harm will come from.  My kids range from 18 to 8.  My older two could put on my armor and be fine movement and functioning wise, but my younger two, aren't there yet.  My youngest is a bean pole of a little gal 8 years old and 49 pounds despite eating like a horse.  I have no idea how to outfit her w/ armor.  I've thought of the backpacks w/ a plate in them, but that's only one side protected, which is obviously better than nothing, but not ideal.  Kids definitely make prepping a big challenge.  

Regarding night vision ATN continues to make interesting and somewhat useful products - but they fit in the "it's better than nothing" category, IMO.  Also, many of the ATN products require an illuminator to function so you lose some stealth capabilities if the opponent is using night vision.  There are a lot of reviews and demonstrations on youtube.  On a related note, there are some handheld FLIRs at around $500 that are pretty good quality.  Again, not ideal, but good enough to let you observe and make out details of those walking around in the night.
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