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 soldierman79
I like to curse...a fuck ton!
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Joined: Sep 2010  TX, USA
 
 Posts: 903 Feedback: 100% (21) Link To This Post |
Posted: 6/29/2012 6:23:24 PM
Originally Posted By spankybear:
To test your charging system take a volt meter and measure the voltage (when the truck is running) of each battery. Measure at the battery terminals (not body ground) You should see 13.7-14.3 volts. The front battery is the left (drivers side) alternator and the rear battery is right (passenger side) alt. If you see 12.4 volts or lower on one of the batteries then that's an indication to what side alt is not working. The left side alt (front battery) powers all of the 12 volt stuff in the truck (lights, fan, wipers ect) Ok, i tested both batteries while running. Front batt = 12.2 v Rear batt = 16.9 v (seems really high to me) Across both = 29.3 v And neither Gen 1 or Gen 2 lights are lit up. The bulb filaments are still intact so it appears they are still good. The voltmeter in the cab doesn't work either. I have both of the relays (the ones that are by the starter relay) on order and i'm pretty sure the horn relay is bad as well. I'm seriously considering setting the truck on fire.  |
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booger-hooker
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Joined: Jun 2001 IA, USA
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Posted: 6/29/2012 10:21:26 PM
My M1010 was converted to 12V before I got it and I've never had a problem with it...don't know if that would help with your electrical problems or not.
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Posted: 7/1/2012 10:21:51 PM
Originally Posted By soldierman79:
Originally Posted By spankybear:
To test your charging system take a volt meter and measure the voltage (when the truck is running) of each battery. Measure at the battery terminals (not body ground) You should see 13.7-14.3 volts. The front battery is the left (drivers side) alternator and the rear battery is right (passenger side) alt. If you see 12.4 volts or lower on one of the batteries then that's an indication to what side alt is not working. The left side alt (front battery) powers all of the 12 volt stuff in the truck (lights, fan, wipers ect) Ok, i tested both batteries while running. Front batt = 12.2 v Rear batt = 16.9 v (seems really high to me) Across both = 29.3 v And neither Gen 1 or Gen 2 lights are lit up. The bulb filaments are still intact so it appears they are still good. The voltmeter in the cab doesn't work either. I have both of the relays (the ones that are by the starter relay) on order and i'm pretty sure the horn relay is bad as well. I'm seriously considering setting the truck on fire. Funny... That's not right. Too high on the right/alt rear bat. The left/alt front bat is too low. Is the belt on the left alt tight? That one can be problematic. There was only one brand of belt I found that would work on that side. It was a good year belt. I will have to take a look at the number. Does it squeal when the glow plug relay cycles? You need to hear or feel the click. It work separately from the wait light. It's not charging the battery with 12.2 volts. This is most likely the battery that is going dead. Do you know about the ground on the alternators? You need to ground the one on the left side and the output (+) from the left is in series with the ground (-) on the right. Wish I had a scanner. I have all of the prints. One thing you can do is swap the alt around and they see what they put out. Kind of a PIA but I have had this, for what ever reason, fix some issues. The other black relay under the dash is for the volt meter. There is a 24 volt fuse on the fuse block. Make sure all of your fuses are good and in. The relay is 12 volt. You can read the side to see what tremenal is the coil (12 volt) and see if that is working. |
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Posted: 7/1/2012 10:23:55 PM
Originally Posted By booger-hooker:
My M1010 was converted to 12V before I got it and I've never had a problem with it...don't know if that would help with your electrical problems or not. The M1010 is a hole other animal when it comes to the charging systems. Be glad you have had it changed. All the others the system works very well as long as somebody hasn't monkeyed with it. |
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soldierman79
I like to curse...a fuck ton!
Team Member
Joined: Sep 2010 TX, USA
Posts: 1111 Feedback: 100% (21) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/29/2012 2:34:08 PM
Originally Posted By spankybear:
Originally Posted By soldierman79:
Originally Posted By spankybear:
To test your charging system take a volt meter and measure the voltage (when the truck is running) of each battery. Measure at the battery terminals (not body ground) You should see 13.7-14.3 volts. The front battery is the left (drivers side) alternator and the rear battery is right (passenger side) alt. If you see 12.4 volts or lower on one of the batteries then that's an indication to what side alt is not working. The left side alt (front battery) powers all of the 12 volt stuff in the truck (lights, fan, wipers ect) Ok, i tested both batteries while running. Front batt = 12.2 v Rear batt = 16.9 v (seems really high to me) Across both = 29.3 v And neither Gen 1 or Gen 2 lights are lit up. The bulb filaments are still intact so it appears they are still good. The voltmeter in the cab doesn't work either. I have both of the relays (the ones that are by the starter relay) on order and i'm pretty sure the horn relay is bad as well. I'm seriously considering setting the truck on fire. Funny... That's not right. Too high on the right/alt rear bat. The left/alt front bat is too low. Is the belt on the left alt tight? That one can be problematic. There was only one brand of belt I found that would work on that side. It was a good year belt. I will have to take a look at the number. Does it squeal when the glow plug relay cycles? You need to hear or feel the click. It work separately from the wait light. It's not charging the battery with 12.2 volts. This is most likely the battery that is going dead. Do you know about the ground on the alternators? You need to ground the one on the left side and the output (+) from the left is in series with the ground (-) on the right. Wish I had a scanner. I have all of the prints. One thing you can do is swap the alt around and they see what they put out. Kind of a PIA but I have had this, for what ever reason, fix some issues. The other black relay under the dash is for the volt meter. There is a 24 volt fuse on the fuse block. Make sure all of your fuses are good and in. The relay is 12 volt. You can read the side to see what tremenal is the coil (12 volt) and see if that is working. All is well now. I rebuilt the alt and my Gen 2 light is working! Now I'm on to the hassle of getting it titled.  Found a title service that a friend has used and it appears she will be street legal in a couple weeks. I can't wait to cruise this ugly bastard around! |
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TxLewis
WSBPTKT
Life Member
Joined: Mar 2001 TX, USA
Posts: 30830 Feedback: 100% (1) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/29/2012 3:13:19 PM
Originally Posted By booger-hooker:
M1010 CUCV ambulance here.  Hows that thing on gas for a trip to Texas?
TXL |
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Posted: 8/29/2012 3:52:49 PM
Originally Posted By TxLewis:
Originally Posted By booger-hooker:
M1010 CUCV ambulance here. Hows that thing on gas for a trip to Texas?
TXL I'd bet it doesn't use any at all. |
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booger-hooker
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Joined: Jun 2001 IA, USA
Posts: 4047 Feedback: 0% (0) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/29/2012 5:28:07 PM
I don't know what my mileage was down and back from the Hun Farm but I drove it out to our property in the mountains of SE Idaho back in 2004...53 MPH on I-80 from Des Moines to Wendover, UT/NV and boy did I piss off people in a 23 mile long one-lane construction zone in Wyoming @ 0200 where the speed limit was 60MPH for construction zone. I went into that 23 mile stretch with nobody behind me in my mirrors and I came out with headlights behind me as far as I could see, luckily it was dark when they all passed me and I couldn't see them flipping me, off but maybe some of them seen the camo'd ambulance and figured I was in the military and just kept their middle finger clinched inside their fist as they drove by. On that trip I got anywhere from 13-15MPG per tank at a constant highway speed which is not bad for an an aerodynamic barn mounted on a truck chassis, now driving into a headwind or sidewind tended to suck. My daughter and I went out to our property again this past July and she wanted to drive the M1010 but I said no way with the price of diesel, no A/C, no stereo (broke), 100+ degree weather & driving 53 MPH on I-80 with her as a passenger. I still have the M1010 but the wife says it has to go and the only reason it's still in the driveway is because the daughter tears up at the mention of it being sold and my wife just turns away and walks away...but the time has come and I should sell it but will probably buy another one again someday and maybe a M1009 in the meantime as it's more "practical".
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pevrs114
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Joined: Mar 2005 VA, USA
Posts: 6524 Feedback: 100% (19) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/29/2012 7:24:41 PM
Originally Posted By Boomer:
Originally Posted By TxLewis:
Originally Posted By booger-hooker:
M1010 CUCV ambulance here. Hows that thing on gas for a trip to Texas?
TXL I'd bet it doesn't use any at all. Beat me to it! I've got what's left of an M1028, going to strip the axles out and put them under something else. Probably a Suburban. The rest of the parts are going to my brother, who has a pair of M1009's. |
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