That, I believe, is simply legal CYA-speak so that the mfr will be insulated (No pun) against dummies who fill grip the canteen when it is scalding hot.



The main thing is to remove the cap entirely from any canteen before heating up the contents.  Otherwise, pressure can build up within the canteen, and it can rupture, perhaps causing injury, and certainly damaging the canteen.

Shoot, just take some 3/16" dia aluminum rod. Bend up an identical handle and bottle insert, and a connector piece. Insert one end of the contraption into the neck of the bottle, and it will pick up the bottle straight every time. Put a crook in the connector, and it will hold the handle off the bottle so it doesn't get hot



Oh, well, another idea given away for free.



I still have plenty of USGI stainless steel canteens and cups around, and these are my current choice for winter. If I didn't have 'em, I'd probably buy some 1 or mebbe 1-1/2 QT max modern water bottles, and appropriate carriers.

Currently I have a couple 32 oz Nalgene/Guyot SS water bottles and Condor carriers, and IMHO, they are too big and bulky, although well-made. Nesting SS boiling cups are available, and that is a big plus.



What makes the difference amongst the modern stuff, to me, at least, is whether or not the particular water bottle mfr has an internally and externally integrated system.



By that, I mean, does the mfr of the SS water bottle have SS cups that nest onto the base of the bottle? Different sorts of caps for different applications? And so forth. That's internal stuff. By external integration I mean does the SS bottle mfr's product interface with other mfr's products. For example, the Katadyn Combi has a detachable lower flange that will accept most Nalgene bottles––wide and narrow, as well as, by happy coincidence, most pop bottles. While the Combi can also use an outflow hose, being able to couple the bottle directly to the water filter is a real conveniance.



This is such a simple thing, but so useful, that it bears talking about. Take your standard water filter with an output hose. You have to not only use two hands to operate most filters, but you also have to use an occasional third hand to steady the receiving bottle since the hose will jiggle it, and maybe upset the bottle.

Contrast this to having the receiving bottle secured to the bottom of the filter, as with the Combi. Now, it is more-or-less a one-handed operation, and you can push against the ground (receiving bottle) as opposed to using both arms. Vastly resuced fuss, and considerably reduced effort. The reduced possibility of contamination is also a big plus.



I understand that other filter mfrs have taken some measures to integrate their filters with other mfrs water bottles, and this is a very good thing.



Try out both approaches, and see what you think. For me, it is a no-brainer.



Buying products from a mfr that has taken the time to both internally and externally integrate their product pays you big dividends in being able go find gear that is designed to mate with your stuff. You have choices, and alternatives, and that is always good.



So far, Nalgene is the leader in this, since they have been around for a long time, and they, and other mfrs, have come to live with each other. This is no slam on other mfrs who make a good product, such as Kleen Kanteen, and others. Still, the newcomers haven't been around long enough for other gear mfrs to begin to offer compatible items for such. That may change, but I urge folks to consider the bigger picture when buying items like this. A bit of forethought might pay surprisingly big dividends. YMMV.



If I was starting from scratch, I believe I'd buy several 1 or 1-1/2 QT max stainless steel water bottles that would mate with my water filter, and for which I could buy nesting SS cups and decent carriers.  I understand that SS is a lot heavier than plastic, but for winter use, that's my plan.



For summer, I'd switch out most of the SS canteens for modern, lightweight plastic, while still keeping the filter adaptibility, and nested cup. YMMV.

If a 1.5l one will work, I just got these very neat French military canteen sets in. They are a 1.5qt aluminum canteen, US style cup that fits it, and the cover.

http://store.oldgrouch.biz/fralcacupand.html

I have been very impressed by the quality.

Hmmmmmmmmm. IIRC, there is a seldom-seen canteen cup stove that is compatible with the unique French canteen cups, and the inclusion of both slip-over stove and cup requires the dual snap arrangement on the pouch.





If a USGI cup will fit, then the easily-obtainable USGI stove will fit also.



Sounds like a winner, as long as the pouch will accept MALICE attachments.  If not, then there are plenty of suitable pouches sold for a bargain price.  Still a good deal.



I'll accept any Euro aluminum canteens, but not ChiCom.  YMMV.



More important is the pouches' attachment method, and some pix might be useful.

Lucky I brought a few home! I just snapped a pic.

It has the old US style wire attachment, and a wide belt loop. One of my customers got 2 and 2 MOLLE/ALICE adapters, since they have the eyelets, they worked to hook it on via the wire hanger.



No clue on a stove for it.

No matter about the French stoves. As long as the Frog canteen will accept the USGI cup and stove AND fit into a USGI canteen pouch (or aftermarket canteen pouch), it is all GTG.



Looks like the Frog pouch was intended to use WWI/II hook-style attachment. Some folks still employ such, so that is useful to a minority. I'd say pairing this frog unit with an ALICE canteen pouch might be a good way to go.   Assuming it fits.



If someone MUST adapt the whole French pouch thing to their modern rig, then factor in a MOLLE adptor into the price equation.



Not tryin to tell your business, just offering some suggestions.



FWIW, I've bought some stuff from you, without your knowing I was a Sr. Staff member here. Everything went well, and I would order from you again.

They may be too tall for a GI cover. I will try one in the morning.

The French-mfd stove had two bent wire legs that folded up into the stove body itself. Result is that the whole ensemble was much taller than canteen with cup alone. The two sets of snaps reflect canteen + cup (lower set), and canteen, cup, + stove (higher set).

Zip ties or the Molle/Alice adapter would work. it will be more secure with zip ties.

No to rain on anyone's parade but that's the stuff I started out on way back when Captain Noah ordered me off the Ark.  I've moved on since then.  

I still have my canteens even a old WWII desert one, but I'm stuck on lexan bottles now and a matching stainless cup that goes on the bottom like the old canteen cups.  Its just a stain friendlier material, see through so you know what's in there, graduated so you can take out what you need, and a nice big wide mouth so you can not only put solids in there but attached directly to a good water filter.  

If I had to go back and look at the canteens I liked most, it was actually the old western style 2 qt round with the felt sides and throw over the shoulder strap.  They were great.  You could wet those sides and the evaporation actually kept them cool at least way cooler than an Army canteen with its pouch wetted, something to do with fast evaporation I guess.  Problem is so many cheap plastic knockoffs were made, its hard to find one of the old metal style anymore, but they're out there.

Tj

Yes, that's what I use with the Lexan bottles, which most call Naglene but that's a brand.  There's all sorts of carrying systems and the wide mouth, you can throw in ice.

I bought my cup from Campmor, quite a few of them really.  They fit the Naglenes and are graduated for cooking.  BTW, They sit on ebist stoves etc. a lot better than the lop sided GI cups.  You're not pot holding as much.  

Tj

Yep, 60's was the start of the cheap ones, made overseas.  Usual leak was the cap which had an anemic seal.  If you tightened it down too tight, it would crack the cap ever so slightly and no stopping the leak.  I use to just go old school on those, using a wine bottle cork.

The second most common leak path was you didn't want to poke the sides with a sharp object.  The same thin metal that made them cool so well, also would puncture.  The plastic was a fix for that and heck the leaky cap too, but then they just didn't cool as well, not even close.

I felt he same way in the Army. We still used metal canteens but the plastic ones were coming on at the same time.  We all wanted the metal.

Tj

No coating inside those French canteens, you can boil no problem.