Just a reminder... Have and check your fire ex's...


Yesterday was trying to modify a rear axle repair bearing for an F-150 type vehicle to get the rollers to use a different area of the floating type axle ground surface.

The Timken bearing is probably Rockwell hardness of ~68 and was using carbide indexible tooling on a Clausing Metosa lathe.  Ruined a few of the inserts...

The tiny 'shavings' were lighting up and burning nicely and I tried cooling with a can of 'Freon' duster and lubing with WD40.

Was thinking that this might be a good way to start a fire...

And a few minutes later ---it was...


LOL


The metal shavings and WD40 ignited nicely [I had put a sheet of thin aluminum under the chuck and on the ways to catch stuff] and that limited initially the propagation of any fire to the oily area under the ways.

In the 90's I bought a bunch of Halon fire extinguishers off eBay for the business at low cost because I think the EPA was banning them...




I kept a lot personally...

Most are good sized 5 or 10 pounds, rarely tested or weighed them

Never had to use one, until last night...  However, I always stationed them at various buildings I occupied ----strategically, over the decades.


When the lathe caught fire, there were several available at various doors and stairway on the first floor, ran and got one, wasn't even sure if it was dry powder or Halon when I used it, was surprised when I discharged it and it worked in less than 2 seconds and poof---  fire was out.

Only used a couple ounces probably.  Now I'm testing it to make sure the valve seal is still viable by putting the hose in a glass of water and observing it for any meniscus or bubble forming at the end in the water.


Unlike powder extinguishers that contaminate the seal, Halon units are filled thru the seal and I expect this one to be fine to remain in service.

[Notwithstanding any possible  Oh-The Noes, from some, whose fire turf is stepped on]




Can't even tell anything happened...

Fire ex had Halon 1211 in it...

Bought a 100 or so of those ties that go around the pin and handle of extinguishers years ago and resealed it and some others...

Also, back in the 90's someone was selling brand new CO2 extinguishers on eBay, 5 or 10 pound units, need to look ---and bought 12 or so. Very low cost because even though new in the box, the tank test date had expired.

They are still good to go and they and some Halons are in the shipping container and barn in the mountains as well...

CO2's are easily chesked for contents by weighing, as are the Halons...


The dry powder types are checked to see if they still are pressurized, and shaking because the powder can [some say] cake and reduce effectiveness...

They are my last choice... Messy... Potentially costly cleanup...

Just found a stainless water/air version someone retrofitted with a longer tube and garden nozzle.
Add water, fill w/air from compressor.

The stainless water types are great!

Often available at auctions, flea mkts , Craig's list, etc.

Add some liquid dish soap to it.  Or if you are friendly with firefighters ask them for some class A or AFFF foam.

Water cans

Someone gave me an old dry chemical one of some sort.  When you turn the extinguisher upside down the powder seems to be all clumped up.

Have not run a search yet to see if this is fixable or not.

Sometimes you can shake them to break up the powder.

its actually a good idea to turn your dry checks upside down a few times a year to keep the powder loose.

I flip my powder one and use it as a door stop to make sure it does not cake

Use a rubber mallet to bang on the sides of the Fire EX while turning upside down will keep the powder loose.

Halon is excellent, it's what we use in and around aircraft still, even though the environazis got it banned.

Anyone have a cool solution for mounting an extinguisher in a F150 with minimal hole drilling?

I'd like to know this too!

I like Quick Fist clamps, you will still need some holes, but they are very versatile.

I had one of those that expired 10 years ago, the gauge said it was good, ie in the green area. For laughs & giggles, I tried to fire it, and zero powder came out.

@whiskerz

I have a large extinguisher that I fired off for the first time since it was new in 1993, just because I heard of clumping problems, and it sat undisturbed the entire time. With no way to detect if it was still good or not, I figured I'd fire it and then get it refilled. It only ran for about 5 seconds, so I suspect clumping.

If I keep it flipped, in your experience, can I trust it indefinitely, short of it losing pressure of course?
Hate to run for it one day, after expecting that flipping will keep it fresh, only to find myself on fire!
I could buy a few more, but that doesn't change the potential for clumping - that just multiplies the problem.

I added a large CO2 to the mix for just in case

Over the past few weeks I weighed all of mine and tagged them.

The powder ones I beat and shook...

I wonder if R134A would make an extinguishing agent?

https://www.nist.gov/sites/default/files/documents/el/fire_research/R0301565.pdf

Good info on keeping the dry chem units from packing.  It happens.

Also, dry chem is not machine or electronics friendly.  And, I've seen it do more damage than the fire it was used to extinguish.  Can't be beat for flammable liquid fires though.

Using halon on hot metal would cause me to leave the area and ventilate well.  Freon will likely kill you under these circumstances.

No. You will however get vaporized Hydroflouric Acid (bad juju) if you spray it into a fire.

Heh.  Big box of baking soda, well a couple, gonna be coming home from the grocery.

For grease fires in the kitchen and what not.

Yes, every year turn them up side down and tap it with a rubber mallet to make sure it stay powdery.