User Panel
Posted: 10/22/2016 6:35:15 PM EDT
I am thinking that I should add a bicycle to my disaster preparedness gear. For one thing it is a good form of exercise even in normal times. But, if for some reason gas were to become overly expensive or scarce then it would be a good way to get around on shorter errand type runs, (going to the store or the bank say) and save using your car for other longer, bigger bulk runs. It may also be a good way to bug out since it would be faster than walking, allow you to carry more gear than you would on foot, allow you to go farther than you could on foot and might allow you to move faster than cars on a jammed freeway. Also you don't have to worry about running out of gas in a bug out and it would be impervious to the ever troublesome EMP boogeyman. On top of that, it isn't something that would necessarily sit around not getting used until there is a disaster because I could ride it for exercise.
What I am thinking is a KISS bicycle. Something without a lot of gears or the cable brakes. I've had mountain bikes and ten speeds with gears and I never could figure them out. Something reliable with one speed and a coaster brake so I don't have to worry about dependence on cables that can deteriorate or fail. So, I am looking at a cruiser bike. I saw a couple of examples at Walmart, but I am not entirely sure if I should go cheap or spend a little extra money to get something better. Huffy lists this one on their website at $79.97. It's simple, it's cheap and it does the job. The downside is that there is no way to put anything on it. If I needed it to go a few miles to the grocery store then I'd be limited to whatever I could fit in a backpack. This is another cruiser model which Huffy lists at $119.97 on their website. This one has the cargo carrier on the back and the basket in the front. The advantages are that it will allow me to carry more stuff. I could put a milk crate on the cargo carrier, load up the basket and even carry more stuff in a backpack. The downside is that I'd probably look like a stunad riding through the neighborhood or the park with my little basket bike. Then again, function over form. Those jerks laughing at me on a sunny Sunday afternoon wouldn't be laughing when I rode past them out of town with all my gear while they were hoofing it or watching their gas tank go to E while they're stuck in traffic. Besides, most people don't pay that much attention to other people and who cares what they says anyways? What is your input on bicycles? Are there better choices in the kind of bike that I am looking for? Something that can be used from everything from recreation to bug out. |
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[#1]
If you reach any hill, especially carrying a load, you're going to find out why gears were invented.
Performance Bike is the Walmart of bicycles. There should be a location in your area. You can get a pretty good bike for a couple hundred. |
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[#2]
Quoted:
If you reach any hill, especially carrying a load, you're going to find out why gears were invented. Performance Bike is the Walmart of bicycles. There should be a location in your area. You can get a pretty good bike for a couple hundred. View Quote Depending on where in Texas he is at, hills may be really minor or nonexistent. Most cruisers come geared way to tall,the chain ring for a single speed with one piece crank is really cheap and fairly easy to replace, although it will require a chain breaker or a quick link. Backpacks on bikes is less than ideal, even upright mountain bikes and cruisers have you leaning over enough for it to slide to the sides repeatedly and sway. There is a reason people use messenger bags, despite less carrying capacity. |
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[#3]
Around here you just look at what the Amish use for practicality, since they are on theirs everyday. Most have a name brand aluminum framed Hybrid with a Topeak rear rack and a hookup for a small trailer. I personally have a Cannondale Hybrid with a Topeak rack on the back that has served me well.
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[#4]
Bicycles have a lot of parts. If the msrp is less than $300 it is a piece of junk. Commonly it would be called a bso - bicycle shaped object.
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[#5]
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[#6]
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[#7]
Quoted:
I am thinking that I should add a bicycle to my disaster preparedness gear. For one thing it is a good form of exercise even in normal times. But, if for some reason gas were to become overly expensive or scarce then it would be a good way to get around on shorter errand type runs, (going to the store or the bank say) and save using your car for other longer, bigger bulk runs. It may also be a good way to bug out since it would be faster than walking, allow you to carry more gear than you would on foot, allow you to go farther than you could on foot and might allow you to move faster than cars on a jammed freeway. Also you don't have to worry about running out of gas in a bug out and it would be impervious to the ever troublesome EMP boogeyman. On top of that, it isn't something that would necessarily sit around not getting used until there is a disaster because I could ride it for exercise. What I am thinking is a KISS bicycle. Something without a lot of gears or the cable brakes. I've had mountain bikes and ten speeds with gears and I never could figure them out. Something reliable with one speed and a coaster brake so I don't have to worry about dependence on cables that can deteriorate or fail. So, I am looking at a cruiser bike. I saw a couple of examples at Walmart, but I am not entirely sure if I should go cheap or spend a little extra money to get something better. Huffy lists this one on their website at $79.97. It's simple, it's cheap and it does the job. The downside is that there is no way to put anything on it. If I needed it to go a few miles to the grocery store then I'd be limited to whatever I could fit in a backpack. https://s21.postimg.org/wglp7uc2f/Unknown_1.png This is another cruiser model which Huffy lists at $119.97 on their website. This one has the cargo carrier on the back and the basket in the front. The advantages are that it will allow me to carry more stuff. I could put a milk crate on the cargo carrier, load up the basket and even carry more stuff in a backpack. The downside is that I'd probably look like a stunad riding through the neighborhood or the park with my little basket bike. Then again, function over form. Those jerks laughing at me on a sunny Sunday afternoon wouldn't be laughing when I rode past them out of town with all my gear while they were hoofing it or watching their gas tank go to E while they're stuck in traffic. Besides, most people don't pay that much attention to other people and who cares what they says anyways? https://s21.postimg.org/otz6oz7nr/Unknown.png What is your input on bicycles? Are there better choices in the kind of bike that I am looking for? Something that can be used from everything from recreation to bug out. View Quote All junk. I would look for a 1990 to 1995 higher end mountain bike from Craig's list. You can find Treks from that vintage all day long cheap. Skip anything with suspension from that era. |
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[#8]
View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: If you reach any hill, especially carrying a load, you're going to find out why gears were invented. http://www.skibane.com/Sturmey-Archer_02.jpg Sturmey-Archer, FTW! That works, too. But with youtube and other internet resources, anyone can be their own bike mechanic. Deraillers should not be scary. There are like five screws, at most. |
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[#9]
A bike is a great item to have, but if you get one you should use it enough to be comfortable on it and understand the maintenance for it. It is very basic and usually simple, you just don't want to stranded by a simple flat tire or chain that binds.
A used, decent model mountain bike should be easy to find secondhand on craigslist, garage sales, etc. Some bikes get treated like other exercise equipment - someone gets one and a few years later sells it off with minimal use. But you need to know what you are getting. Many sellers have $100 walmart bikes that they still think are worth $80 to $100. I have a mid range folding mountain bike, mostly so it is easier to fit in my hatchback car on road trips. Great item for me whether I fold it or not. Last week I brought it with me when I dropped off my car for repairs. When they said 3 hours, I took it out, biked a few miles to a shopping area, and biked back later when my car was done. |
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[#10]
Quoted: All junk. I would look for a 1990 to 1995 higher end mountain bike from Craig's list. You can find Treks from that vintage all day long cheap. Skip anything with suspension from that era. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: All junk. I would look for a 1990 to 1995 higher end mountain bike from Craig's list. You can find Treks from that vintage all day long cheap. Skip anything with suspension from that era. Get something without suspension or hydraulic brakes. Learn to do basic maintenance like change a tire or tube. Put together a flat kit and keep it on the bike in a small bag under the seat. Get a rack for the back for hauling shit (or better yet a tow behind trailer). It's important to ride the thing now so you can get all of the kinks worked out, the fit adjusted, etc. |
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[#11]
i used to mod mild steel crusiers into 5 -10 speed bikes
they were heavy and eventually the frames would fail a cromoly steel frame with a mid range parts group is what you want 500 bucks important upgrade |
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[#12]
I've ridden thousands of miles on bikes....Not so much the last couple years though. HIGHLY recommend a 21 speed mountain bike. I recommend a full suspension. People who ride competitively talk bad about full suspension because the suspension absorbs some of your energy. However, they are SO much more comfortable to ride. I won't go back to a solid frame bike.
You can spend a lot on a bike. But, if you check places like Wal-Mart and buy their top end bikes they are pretty good for the money. I'd love to have a $1000 bike but I can't justify it. |
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[#13]
Quoted:
I've ridden thousands of miles on bikes....Not so much the last couple years though. HIGHLY recommend a 21 speed mountain bike. I recommend a full suspension. People who ride competitively talk bad about full suspension because the suspension absorbs some of your energy. However, they are SO much more comfortable to ride. I won't go back to a solid frame bike. You can spend a lot on a bike. But, if you check places like Wal-Mart and buy their top end bikes they are pretty good for the money. I'd love to have a $1000 bike but I can't justify it. View Quote Any Wal-Mart Bike will be junk. |
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[#14]
Never, ever, buy a Huffy. Even if it's just for your kids to poke around on. Huffy = sh*t. Actually, that's giving sh*t a bad name, as at least it has some uses.
I worked at a custom bike shop a while back. We had a yearly event called the "Huffy Toss". Everyone would get liquored up, and we'd see who could throw a Huffy the farthest, while at the same time inflicting the most damage to the (so-called) bike. |
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[#15]
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[#17]
Is Schwinn still a good brand?
Would you buy a used 80's Schwinn? |
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[#19]
Out of what I have seen posted the surly is your best option minus the leather seat and a higher profile handlebar. (you can probably use a spacer and just raise them) If none of those are to your liking look into some cyclocross bikes. Lighter than a mountain bike generally, but still able to put some really good hefty tires on it. I would advise if you can to get a bike with hydraulic disc brakes. If you really would like to shave weight you can always just use the SRAM one by groupset. It is a nice investment with nice parts and you will not notice not having the "lack of gears" IM if you need any more help.
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[#20]
Quoted:
Is Schwinn still a good brand? Would you buy a used 80's Schwinn? View Quote A High Sierra or a High Plains would work well. They both have CrMo frames. On a bike that old you may want to swap out the components for simple non-indexing quality derailleurs and shifters. http://www.velo-orange.com |
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[#21]
Quoted:
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I've ridden thousands of miles on bikes....Not so much the last couple years though. HIGHLY recommend a 21 speed mountain bike. I recommend a full suspension. People who ride competitively talk bad about full suspension because the suspension absorbs some of your energy. However, they are SO much more comfortable to ride. I won't go back to a solid frame bike. You can spend a lot on a bike. But, if you check places like Wal-Mart and buy their top end bikes they are pretty good for the money. I'd love to have a $1000 bike but I can't justify it. Any Wal-Mart Bike will be junk. Not true at all. Now, if you are talking about competing with other riders in races...then yes I would agree with you. Walmart regularly updates their stock of bikes. If you watch them, you'll see some really nice bikes for the money. For a casual rider they are just fine. I bought a full suspension mountain bike there years ago....as in 14 years ago. Not one single repair in probably around 2000 miles on it. Is it the quality of a Trek or similar? Of course not. But excellent for the money. The average person won't be able to justify the added expense of a higher end bike for casual riding. |
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[#22]
Quoted:
Not true at all. Now, if you are talking about competing with other riders in races...then yes I would agree with you. Walmart regularly updates their stock of bikes. If you watch them, you'll see some really nice bikes for the money. For a casual rider they are just fine. I bought a full suspension mountain bike there years ago....as in 14 years ago. Not one single repair in probably around 2000 miles on it. Is it the quality of a Trek or similar? Of course not. But excellent for the money. The average person won't be able to justify the added expense of a higher end bike for casual riding. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I've ridden thousands of miles on bikes....Not so much the last couple years though. HIGHLY recommend a 21 speed mountain bike. I recommend a full suspension. People who ride competitively talk bad about full suspension because the suspension absorbs some of your energy. However, they are SO much more comfortable to ride. I won't go back to a solid frame bike. You can spend a lot on a bike. But, if you check places like Wal-Mart and buy their top end bikes they are pretty good for the money. I'd love to have a $1000 bike but I can't justify it. Any Wal-Mart Bike will be junk. Not true at all. Now, if you are talking about competing with other riders in races...then yes I would agree with you. Walmart regularly updates their stock of bikes. If you watch them, you'll see some really nice bikes for the money. For a casual rider they are just fine. I bought a full suspension mountain bike there years ago....as in 14 years ago. Not one single repair in probably around 2000 miles on it. Is it the quality of a Trek or similar? Of course not. But excellent for the money. The average person won't be able to justify the added expense of a higher end bike for casual riding. You do not know what you are talking about... They are dangerous junk! |
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[#23]
Quoted:
You do not know what you are talking about... They are dangerous junk! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I've ridden thousands of miles on bikes....Not so much the last couple years though. HIGHLY recommend a 21 speed mountain bike. I recommend a full suspension. People who ride competitively talk bad about full suspension because the suspension absorbs some of your energy. However, they are SO much more comfortable to ride. I won't go back to a solid frame bike. You can spend a lot on a bike. But, if you check places like Wal-Mart and buy their top end bikes they are pretty good for the money. I'd love to have a $1000 bike but I can't justify it. Any Wal-Mart Bike will be junk. Not true at all. Now, if you are talking about competing with other riders in races...then yes I would agree with you. Walmart regularly updates their stock of bikes. If you watch them, you'll see some really nice bikes for the money. For a casual rider they are just fine. I bought a full suspension mountain bike there years ago....as in 14 years ago. Not one single repair in probably around 2000 miles on it. Is it the quality of a Trek or similar? Of course not. But excellent for the money. The average person won't be able to justify the added expense of a higher end bike for casual riding. You do not know what you are talking about... They are dangerous junk! All due respect, you don't seem to provide much to support your assertion. I will qualify your feelsy statement with the assertion that many WM bikes are indeed junk. Many are low-end and poorly manufactured for cost savings, even more poorly put-together by some kid in a blue vest who doesn't know diddly squat about proper bike assembly. I saw a bunch recently that had hand-tightened axle nuts, front tires facing the wrong way. FORKS facing the wrong way, stems installed backwards, stems not properly torqued (handlebars move, front tire stays still), pedals cross-threaded, just to name a few of the maladies. Having said that, there are SOME bikes offered at Wal-Mart that can be made serviceable for moderately hard use. Among them would be the Schwinn hardtails and some of the offerings from Genesis. A couple of serious mountain biker guys on YT did a performance review of the Mongoose Ledge series, which is actually a decent bike for the money but will require a bit of coin to prepare for serious use. If you buy a WM bike, do a bunch of research on bikes to figure out what to look for in a proper assembly, or take it to a reputable bike shop for a safety inspection, or else just buy one from the back still in the box and assemble to the manufacturer's specifications yourself. Even if you don't buy a WM bike, do the research anyway. It will help you identify common problems and aid in troubleshooting and adjusting your new bike to your liking, as well as give you an eye for appraising used bikes. Now, having said the above, the recommendation above for Craigslist is a good one, but you'll have to scour for the deals. Some stuck-up motherfuckers think that just because they know bikes and have maintained them properly means they can ask for $20 off sticker despite thousands of miles, LOL. My advice is don't forget to drop by your local Goodwill. Many times the people there don't even know what they have. I scored a Specialized Hotrock 20" 6-speed for my daughter just yesterday at my Goodwill. The tires were deflated and the bike was muddy as all getout with a busted gearshift cable housing. An hour or so of TLC and $12 of parts and it looks and functions like new. The best part: the bike cost me $6.75 out the door! My kiddo now has a fully functional, very nice bike for less than $20 invested. I am definitely going back there regularly to check for more donated bikes! |
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[#24]
I have bought Walmart type Mtn bikes at the local SA/ seconhand/thrift store for under $10, one that looked to have never been used.
Fine for cruising around on asphalt but all have failed even with light offroad use over time. Bought a Trek 4500 with upgrades and a kid carrier for $150 off CL and flipped the carrier for $40 |
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[#25]
Motown Steve,
Save yourself the money, time, and pain, don't buy a Walmart bike. They are the Hi-Point, Lorcin, Jennings, Raven et all of the bike world. First you need to know what size of bike frame you need. On the wrong size frame you will be uncomfortable and inefficient. The best place to get an idea as to the proper size of frame you need is your local quality bike shop. Second you need to figure out what you want to do on the bike. A bike for running errands in a 1-5 mile radius will be very different from a bike to haul your gear cross country to your bug out location. Third, shop Craigslist and the used markets, lots of deals can be had for stupid cheap prices if you shop around. As to do I know what I'm talking about? Grew up in a bike shop, (literally). Have met and ridden with lots of folks touring coast to coast. Worked my way through college in a shop. Industry trained and certified mechanic. Worked for Trek Bicycle out of college. Still ride and maintain more than a "few" bikes. Would be happy to walk anyone through "Bike 101" via IM, Just hit my inbox. Semper Fi |
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[#26]
Quoted:
All due respect, you don't seem to provide much to support your assertion. I will qualify your feelsy statement with the assertion that many WM bikes are indeed junk. Many are low-end and poorly manufactured for cost savings, even more poorly put-together by some kid in a blue vest who doesn't know diddly squat about proper bike assembly. I saw a bunch recently that had hand-tightened axle nuts, front tires facing the wrong way. FORKS facing the wrong way, stems installed backwards, stems not properly torqued (handlebars move, front tire stays still), pedals cross-threaded, just to name a few of the maladies. Having said that, there are SOME bikes offered at Wal-Mart that can be made serviceable for moderately hard use. Among them would be the Schwinn hardtails and some of the offerings from Genesis. A couple of serious mountain biker guys on YT did a performance review of the Mongoose Ledge series, which is actually a decent bike for the money but will require a bit of coin to prepare for serious use. If you buy a WM bike, do a bunch of research on bikes to figure out what to look for in a proper assembly, or take it to a reputable bike shop for a safety inspection, or else just buy one from the back still in the box and assemble to the manufacturer's specifications yourself. Even if you don't buy a WM bike, do the research anyway. It will help you identify common problems and aid in troubleshooting and adjusting your new bike to your liking, as well as give you an eye for appraising used bikes. Now, having said the above, the recommendation above for Craigslist is a good one, but you'll have to scour for the deals. Some stuck-up motherfuckers think that just because they know bikes and have maintained them properly means they can ask for $20 off sticker despite thousands of miles, LOL. My advice is don't forget to drop by your local Goodwill. Many times the people there don't even know what they have. I scored a Specialized Hotrock 20" 6-speed for my daughter just yesterday at my Goodwill. The tires were deflated and the bike was muddy as all getout with a busted gearshift cable housing. An hour or so of TLC and $12 of parts and it looks and functions like new. The best part: the bike cost me $6.75 out the door! My kiddo now has a fully functional, very nice bike for less than $20 invested. I am definitely going back there regularly to check for more donated bikes! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I've ridden thousands of miles on bikes....Not so much the last couple years though. HIGHLY recommend a 21 speed mountain bike. I recommend a full suspension. People who ride competitively talk bad about full suspension because the suspension absorbs some of your energy. However, they are SO much more comfortable to ride. I won't go back to a solid frame bike. You can spend a lot on a bike. But, if you check places like Wal-Mart and buy their top end bikes they are pretty good for the money. I'd love to have a $1000 bike but I can't justify it. Any Wal-Mart Bike will be junk. Not true at all. Now, if you are talking about competing with other riders in races...then yes I would agree with you. Walmart regularly updates their stock of bikes. If you watch them, you'll see some really nice bikes for the money. For a casual rider they are just fine. I bought a full suspension mountain bike there years ago....as in 14 years ago. Not one single repair in probably around 2000 miles on it. Is it the quality of a Trek or similar? Of course not. But excellent for the money. The average person won't be able to justify the added expense of a higher end bike for casual riding. You do not know what you are talking about... They are dangerous junk! All due respect, you don't seem to provide much to support your assertion. I will qualify your feelsy statement with the assertion that many WM bikes are indeed junk. Many are low-end and poorly manufactured for cost savings, even more poorly put-together by some kid in a blue vest who doesn't know diddly squat about proper bike assembly. I saw a bunch recently that had hand-tightened axle nuts, front tires facing the wrong way. FORKS facing the wrong way, stems installed backwards, stems not properly torqued (handlebars move, front tire stays still), pedals cross-threaded, just to name a few of the maladies. Having said that, there are SOME bikes offered at Wal-Mart that can be made serviceable for moderately hard use. Among them would be the Schwinn hardtails and some of the offerings from Genesis. A couple of serious mountain biker guys on YT did a performance review of the Mongoose Ledge series, which is actually a decent bike for the money but will require a bit of coin to prepare for serious use. If you buy a WM bike, do a bunch of research on bikes to figure out what to look for in a proper assembly, or take it to a reputable bike shop for a safety inspection, or else just buy one from the back still in the box and assemble to the manufacturer's specifications yourself. Even if you don't buy a WM bike, do the research anyway. It will help you identify common problems and aid in troubleshooting and adjusting your new bike to your liking, as well as give you an eye for appraising used bikes. Now, having said the above, the recommendation above for Craigslist is a good one, but you'll have to scour for the deals. Some stuck-up motherfuckers think that just because they know bikes and have maintained them properly means they can ask for $20 off sticker despite thousands of miles, LOL. My advice is don't forget to drop by your local Goodwill. Many times the people there don't even know what they have. I scored a Specialized Hotrock 20" 6-speed for my daughter just yesterday at my Goodwill. The tires were deflated and the bike was muddy as all getout with a busted gearshift cable housing. An hour or so of TLC and $12 of parts and it looks and functions like new. The best part: the bike cost me $6.75 out the door! My kiddo now has a fully functional, very nice bike for less than $20 invested. I am definitely going back there regularly to check for more donated bikes! I worked in a high end bike shop. Performed retail assembly of low end bikes. I saw enough warrenty returns to never want to buy department store junk. I build wheels, restored vintage steel bikes, etc. HiTen steel bikes are not what Steve is looking for. |
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[#27]
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[#28]
I've worked many years in bicycle shops. I've worked for a high end bicycle manufacturer. I managed a race team, and build the bikes that got sent to magazines for testing.
I'm also a frugal guy. I won't tell you that you should get a $5000 carbon fiber bike. I will say that buying a department stores bike will be a mistake. Even if they offered the same bike as the bike shop, it is worth paying a bit more to get the support of a local bike shop. All bikes need a tune up after break in. You'll pay $50 or more for that at most shops - and most all shops offer one or more free tune up with a bike purchase. So factor that in. A local shop will also usually take the time to show you how to change a flat, or make minor adjustments, etc. If you have not been riding, it will be hard for you to determine which bike is the right size. A local bike shop will help you pick the right one. No deal is good enough to make up for a bike that doesn't fit. Its a lesson I had to learn several times. A hartail mtn bike is an extremely versitile bike. Hardtail meaning no rear suspension. Put skinny slick tires on it and you can just about hang with dedicated road bikes. Knobbies and you are riding trails. Add a rack/trailer and you can haul some decent loads. I dont recommend full suspension. Less expensive full suspension bikes really have to scrimp on other parts to add suspension. The 'shocks' are often just springs and offer no damping. Plus it adds a level of cost/complexity/maintenance I don't think you are looking for. A used late 90's and up hardtail can be a good deal. However make sure it fits you. Also note that if that used bike needs the common things a used bike usually needs like a tune up, seat, tires, chain, brake pads, etc - those add up quick. Many times I've had someone bring in a used bike they 'scored' on CL only to rack up a $200 bill getting it going. A comparable brand new bike (with a year of free tune ups) could be had for $300. |
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[#29]
Quoted:
I got this on Craigslist for $600 this spring ..Its got some years on it but Ive done some T-shirt runs with it and my Strava times are much better ..Tbe bike I had before it was a $400 SE Racing road bike that weighed 6 lbs more..and even that was waaaaaay better than a wal-mart bike <a href="http://s38.photobucket.com/user/Voodoochile65/media/bike_zpspmw6tjli.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e103/Voodoochile65/bike_zpspmw6tjli.jpg</a> View Quote Very nice! |
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[#30]
Quoted:
I've worked many years in bicycle shops. I've worked for a high end bicycle manufacturer. I managed a race team, and build the bikes that got sent to magazines for testing. I'm also a frugal guy. I won't tell you that you should get a $5000 carbon fiber bike. I will say that buying a department stores bike will be a mistake. Even if they offered the same bike as the bike shop, it is worth paying a bit more to get the support of a local bike shop. All bikes need a tune up after break in. You'll pay $50 or more for that at most shops - and most all shops offer one or more free tune up with a bike purchase. So factor that in. A local shop will also usually take the time to show you how to change a flat, or make minor adjustments, etc. If you have not been riding, it will be hard for you to determine which bike is the right size. A local bike shop will help you pick the right one. No deal is good enough to make up for a bike that doesn't fit. Its a lesson I had to learn several times. A hartail mtn bike is an extremely versitile bike. Hardtail meaning no rear suspension. Put skinny slick tires on it and you can just about hang with dedicated road bikes. Knobbies and you are riding trails. Add a rack/trailer and you can haul some decent loads. I dont recommend full suspension. Less expensive full suspension bikes really have to scrimp on other parts to add suspension. The 'shocks' are often just springs and offer no damping. Plus it adds a level of cost/complexity/maintenance I don't think you are looking for. A used late 90's and up hardtail can be a good deal. However make sure it fits you. Also note that if that used bike needs the common things a used bike usually needs like a tune up, seat, tires, chain, brake pads, etc - those add up quick. Many times I've had someone bring in a used bike they 'scored' on CL only to rack up a $200 bill getting it going. A comparable brand new bike (with a year of free tune ups) could be had for $300. View Quote I would tend to agree. |
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[#31]
What ever route you end up going get a few of these items they are cheap and invaluable when needed.
1. some spare tubes 2. small hand pump 3. couple of plastic tire levers 4. Knowledge on how to change out on the road or trail |
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[#32]
If you are not a bicycle enthusiast already, buy an inexpensive bike. This is no different than any other thing you get into. Either you are going to ride the hell out of it which then losing a hundred dollars or so to buy another more expensive bike is no big deal or you end up with yet another piece of junk you don't use in your garage and the more expensive the junk they more it grinds at you for being so stupid.
The whole idea of survival is preparedness. That means you have it when you need it. That's not sold or stolen because it cost a fortune. You don't even need SHTF or EOTWAWKI, go to anyplace where bicycles are actually used every day for transportation and you'll find expensive high end bikes quite rare. Expensive bikes are like buying gold then storing it on the street with a cable lock. Clip gone. Survival bicycling or for that matter day to day transportation is simply a different application than recreational bicycling or competitive sports bicycling. If I had to name the one feature I have seen more visiting the worlds Socialist Paradises where bicycles are king right behind mopeds, its hands down the back tire rack. Its an anchor point that extends the length of the bicycle to hang items you want to transport or stack them up. Front baskets not so much. Any weight at all there starts limiting your ability to lift the front to navigate obstacles, basically jump a curb. Visiting Asia, I've seen bicycles loaded with amazing amount of stuff. Yes, by far most bicycles I've seen in 3rd World countries have been classic one speeds but I here I differ with what is common just a tad, because we're not really talking a country a shitpot to start with and any scenario that will take you from Mercedes to Huffy, there will be plenty of ten speeds around. My first gear shift bike was 1966. Pretty much the concern about durability vs no shift is unfounded. Other than adjustments, I'd worry more about brake pads than the gears. Some scenario that has you suddenly looking at a bicycle as basic transportation that means occasional if not from the get go load bearing so you are going to want those gears. Those one speeds you see on TV in China are geared low and slow. They don't even make an attempt to keep up with traffic. Things I like on a bike which is really preference is I like water bottles, you stop the bike does. I like behind the seat tool kits, frame pouches for carrying a firearm, and gizmo mount on the handle bar. These days that mostly just a cell phone for navigation, etc. I'm big on reflectors but not so much on lights. Lights require batteries which forget SHTF can't find batteries, they go all funky in the garage doing nothing. All that nice stuff and it is nice is for folks who ride all the time. You can use your headlamp when needed. Anyway I hope this helps. TJ |
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[#33]
Quoted:
I've worked many years in bicycle shops. I've worked for a high end bicycle manufacturer. I managed a race team, and build the bikes that got sent to magazines for testing. I'm also a frugal guy. I won't tell you that you should get a $5000 carbon fiber bike. I will say that buying a department stores bike will be a mistake. Even if they offered the same bike as the bike shop, it is worth paying a bit more to get the support of a local bike shop. All bikes need a tune up after break in. You'll pay $50 or more for that at most shops - and most all shops offer one or more free tune up with a bike purchase. So factor that in. A local shop will also usually take the time to show you how to change a flat, or make minor adjustments, etc. If you have not been riding, it will be hard for you to determine which bike is the right size. A local bike shop will help you pick the right one. No deal is good enough to make up for a bike that doesn't fit. Its a lesson I had to learn several times. A hartail mtn bike is an extremely versitile bike. Hardtail meaning no rear suspension. Put skinny slick tires on it and you can just about hang with dedicated road bikes. Knobbies and you are riding trails. Add a rack/trailer and you can haul some decent loads. I dont recommend full suspension. Less expensive full suspension bikes really have to scrimp on other parts to add suspension. The 'shocks' are often just springs and offer no damping. Plus it adds a level of cost/complexity/maintenance I don't think you are looking for. A used late 90's and up hardtail can be a good deal. However make sure it fits you. Also note that if that used bike needs the common things a used bike usually needs like a tune up, seat, tires, chain, brake pads, etc - those add up quick. Many times I've had someone bring in a used bike they 'scored' on CL only to rack up a $200 bill getting it going. A comparable brand new bike (with a year of free tune ups) could be had for $300. View Quote Could you recommend some general purpose <$500 bikes to take a look for that are a good value? I did what you mentioned. Bought a Cannondale Team MTB with a Lefty shock, Hydraulic Brakes etc on CL. Ended up putting quality mechanical brakes on it but the fork won't lock out which is really an energy hog. Repairing the fork from my research is not practical. Its still fairly light compared to anything you could buy today for what I paid for it. |
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[#34]
Could you recommend some general purpose <$500 bikes to take a look for that are a good value? I did what you mentioned. Bought a Cannondale Team MTB with a Lefty shock, Hydraulic Brakes etc on CL. Ended up putting quality mechanical brakes on it but the fork won't lock out which is really an energy hog. Repairing the fork from my research is not practical. Its still fairly light compared to anything you could buy today for what I paid for it. View Quote Pretty much all the major brands have some great options in the $300 - $500 range. Trek, Specialized, Giant, etc it is pretty hard to go wrong. I worked at a shop that sold Jamis and they tended to be a bit better value than some of the other major brands, so you might see if there is a shop in town that sells them. Go to several shops and ride bikes at each. Go with whichever one you like the best. Most shops have a price point entry level bike in the $200-$300 range. They usually have to cut some corners to get to that price. Often there is a model one or two levels up that hits a sweet spot for value. Look for that one. If you get a decent shop rat helping you, they will know what you mean if you ask. This is also a good time of year as they may have end of year deals available. At your price range I'd try to avoid rear suspension and disk brakes. On cheaper bikes they are a major compromise and won't add any benefit. If you already have the Cannondale and it fits you, no reason not to try to get it sorted for you. Cannondale always did things a bit different and I never worked on them, so I'm not too familiar with their lefty fork. However it either uses air or a spring, so if its air, add some to stiffen it (you will likely need a special pump, a shop would likely loan it to you). If spring, you can often dial in preload, or add a stiffer spring, or come up with a spacer to add preload. The suspension 'sucking power' is a bit overblown. Yes some of your pedaling forces go into activating the suspension, but it also keeps your wheel(s) tracking on loose/bumpy terrain. Most new riders like to stand, use way too low of a cadence, and pedal raggedly - this is what causes the suspension to bob. Think of the bouncing suspension as an indicator your are already pedaling inefficiently. Sit down, pedal smoother, shift into a lower gear and increase your cadence. The suspension will stop bobbing, and you'll be less tired at the end of your ride. |
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[#35]
Buy a good but economical hard-tail aluminum-framed Mtn Bike with a Shimano drive train and put smoother and narrower (1.75") tires on it, plus front and rear pannier racks, plus a comfortable seat.
As Jed says keep your cadence up by shifting gears. Too many general folks try to muscle a gear that's too high. |
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[#36]
I'm rocking a Specialized AWOL Comp.
Thing is designed and built for long haul gravel adventures with gear. I can fill my rear panniers with the items from my Alice Pack and strap the pack to the rear rack. |
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