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Link Posted: 10/28/2015 5:35:51 PM EDT
[#1]
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Man, I'd pay handsomely for lithium D cells if anyone would just make them. I don't have a lot of things that use D's anymore, but it would sure be nice to have the option of lithium in the old maglites & such that we do still have. Do have the AA-to-D adapters as a last-ditch option, but that's kind of weak compared to what a genuine lithium D would probably offer.

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Quoted:...I don't have many alkalines around, but the D batteries that I do have...

Man, I'd pay handsomely for lithium D cells if anyone would just make them. I don't have a lot of things that use D's anymore, but it would sure be nice to have the option of lithium in the old maglites & such that we do still have. Do have the AA-to-D adapters as a last-ditch option, but that's kind of weak compared to what a genuine lithium D would probably offer.



They do and yes you will...






Link Posted: 10/28/2015 6:36:32 PM EDT
[#2]
Good idea.
Link Posted: 10/29/2015 12:36:47 AM EDT
[#3]
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IDK. Shelf life would be the same 5-10 years(not "sixfold improvement"), just the capacity lost during that time would be minimized.
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(snip)...
Basically, they're implying that 5-10 years of shelf life for alkalines (or 3-5 years for carbon-zinc batteries) is adequate for the average consumer. However, for a prepper, the sixfold improvement in shelf life obtained by cold storage is definitely worthwhile.

Again, proper storage eliminates any concerns about moisture condensation. Seal 'em individually in plastic before refrigeration, and you're GTG.

IDK. Shelf life would be the same 5-10 years(not "sixfold improvement"), just the capacity lost during that time would be minimized.


Battery manufacturers define "shelf life" as the amount of storage time (in years) until the battery has lost some specified amount of its original capacity (typically, 20 percent).

That's where the 7 year figure for alkalines stored at room temperature comes from: In 7 years, they've lost 20 percent of their original capacity.

Note that a battery's loss in capacity over time is linear - If it loses 1 percent over a year, it'll lose 2 percent over 2 years, and so on.

So, if storing a battery at 32 degrees F causes it to lose 3 percent of its original capacity in 7 years, it'll lose 20 percent of its original capacity in around 47 years!

A shelf life of 7 years is over 6 times shorter than a shelf life of 47 years.
Link Posted: 10/29/2015 10:57:27 AM EDT
[#4]
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They do and yes you will...



Who does? I've found "D-size" lithium batteries that were 3.6 volt; never found normal 1.2-1.5 volt lithium D's.


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Quoted:...I don't have many alkalines around, but the D batteries that I do have...

Man, I'd pay handsomely for lithium D cells if anyone would just make them. I don't have a lot of things that use D's anymore, but it would sure be nice to have the option of lithium in the old maglites & such that we do still have. Do have the AA-to-D adapters as a last-ditch option, but that's kind of weak compared to what a genuine lithium D would probably offer.



They do and yes you will...



Who does? I've found "D-size" lithium batteries that were 3.6 volt; never found normal 1.2-1.5 volt lithium D's.



Link Posted: 10/29/2015 9:33:10 PM EDT
[#5]
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+1
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I don't know how you guys aren't rotating through AA's in 7 years.  Maybe it's because I have kids, but I go through AA's and AAA's at astounding rates.  I think we just went through a 36 pack of AA's in about 3-4 months.

At this point I'm more worried about cost per battery, than shelf life or maximum output.


+1


I was actually thinking the exact opposite.

I bought a 16 pack of Duracell alkaline AA's probably 5 years ago ... just went to find it and the batteries "expired" in Mar 2015.  It doesn't list then they were made, but I assume 4-5 years ago.

Funny thing is, I still have 3 left in the pack!

So I only use a few a year, and that's with living with 2 other people.

Let's see ... 1 every other year or so for Yamaha receiver remote control ... A wireless mouse burns another about every year ... that's about it.

I have never understood the AA craze, or how people manage to burn through so many.  Is it just kids toys that always need AAs?

Anything quality ... doesn't run on AA, let alone AAA.  I think the only thing I own that takes a AAA is a TI calculator.  Seriously.

I've bought more 9v batteries in the past few years to replace beeping smoke alarms in the building hallways than I have anything else ... excluding 3400 mAh 18650s, which is really what you should be buying.
Link Posted: 10/29/2015 9:44:46 PM EDT
[#6]
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Who does? I've found "D-size" lithium batteries that were 3.6 volt; never found normal 1.2-1.5 volt lithium D's.


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Quoted:...I don't have many alkalines around, but the D batteries that I do have...

Man, I'd pay handsomely for lithium D cells if anyone would just make them. I don't have a lot of things that use D's anymore, but it would sure be nice to have the option of lithium in the old maglites & such that we do still have. Do have the AA-to-D adapters as a last-ditch option, but that's kind of weak compared to what a genuine lithium D would probably offer.



They do and yes you will...



Who does? I've found "D-size" lithium batteries that were 3.6 volt; never found normal 1.2-1.5 volt lithium D's.




Well that's the exact point ... a lithium ion cell of D size is going to be capable of much higher voltage than 1.5 volts.

That's a good thing, as most LEDs like to be driven in the 4-9 volt range ... it just makes them incompatible with old hardware that can't handle the voltage.

Personally, I think it makes more sense to get a new light that can handle the latest battery tech ... then to ask manufacturers to make an expensive, watered down lithium ion battery that delivers "old" voltage requirements.

I say this as someone who also went on a hunt for D cell lithium ion cells to power a 6D mag lite I bought 10 years ago ... only to find that it was flawed thinking, and I would be better suited with a different strategy.

Now, if someone made a nice LED drop in made to run on higher voltage ... and you could use 3.6v lithium ion D cells in your old maglite ... that would be interesting.  A 22v, 6 3.6v D cell mag lite with adjustable beam would be a monster with huge capacity if someone would build the circuitry, but at that point it's super niche market and the niche market has moved onto 18650s, 26650s, etc.

Unfortunately, even Malkoff Devices Maglite drop ins are only spec'd for voltage ranges that normal alkaline D cells would provide ... 6-9v max depending on the model ... no go.



Link Posted: 10/29/2015 11:05:22 PM EDT
[#7]
I think that he wants lithium D batteries, not lithium-ion 32650 3.6v cells.

Like Energizer's Lithium Ultimate and Advanced AAs and AAAs.

Much better at the temperature extremes, a shelf life of 25 years and generally a higher ~1.80v out of the pack state of charge.

They'd be spendy, but still cheaper than good Tenergy, Maha and AccuPower D NiMH batteries.

I've got an 02 Cool 10" 12v fan that runs on 8 D batteries and mulled over spending the money on NiMH batteries and a charger, or just gut it out with the alkaleaks and hope they last.

I went with the latter, but spending a couple of bucks more on lithium D batteries might have been the even better play.  I guess I could get a few 3 32650 li-ions and use spacers, but just getting 8 Eneloop AA>D adapters would be the cheapest route.

Chris
Link Posted: 10/30/2015 12:15:14 AM EDT
[#8]
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I was actually thinking the exact opposite.

I bought a 16 pack of Duracell alkaline AA's probably 5 years ago ... just went to find it and the batteries "expired" in Mar 2015.  It doesn't list then they were made, but I assume 4-5 years ago.

Funny thing is, I still have 3 left in the pack!

So I only use a few a year, and that's with living with 2 other people.

Let's see ... 1 every other year or so for Yamaha receiver remote control ... A wireless mouse burns another about every year ... that's about it.

I have never understood the AA craze, or how people manage to burn through so many.  Is it just kids toys that always need AAs?

Anything quality ... doesn't run on AA, let alone AAA.  I think the only thing I own that takes a AAA is a TI calculator.  Seriously.

I've bought more 9v batteries in the past few years to replace beeping smoke alarms in the building hallways than I have anything else ... excluding 3400 mAh 18650s, which is really what you should be buying.
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I don't know how you guys aren't rotating through AA's in 7 years.  Maybe it's because I have kids, but I go through AA's and AAA's at astounding rates.  I think we just went through a 36 pack of AA's in about 3-4 months.

At this point I'm more worried about cost per battery, than shelf life or maximum output.


+1


I was actually thinking the exact opposite.

I bought a 16 pack of Duracell alkaline AA's probably 5 years ago ... just went to find it and the batteries "expired" in Mar 2015.  It doesn't list then they were made, but I assume 4-5 years ago.

Funny thing is, I still have 3 left in the pack!

So I only use a few a year, and that's with living with 2 other people.

Let's see ... 1 every other year or so for Yamaha receiver remote control ... A wireless mouse burns another about every year ... that's about it.

I have never understood the AA craze, or how people manage to burn through so many.  Is it just kids toys that always need AAs?

Anything quality ... doesn't run on AA, let alone AAA.  I think the only thing I own that takes a AAA is a TI calculator.  Seriously.

I've bought more 9v batteries in the past few years to replace beeping smoke alarms in the building hallways than I have anything else ... excluding 3400 mAh 18650s, which is really what you should be buying.



Hmm... My eotech runs on AA's.  Is that not quality?

But yes, lots of kids toys run on AAs and AAAs.
Link Posted: 10/30/2015 12:10:04 PM EDT
[#9]
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I think that he wants lithium D batteries, not lithium-ion 32650 3.6v cells.

Like Energizer's Lithium Ultimate and Advanced AAs and AAAs...
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Ed-zackry. That's why I said, "I'd pay handsomely for lithium D cells..."

To be clear, we don't have a lot of devices that use D cells, but those that do are quality gear and need to either be fed with batteries or thrown in the trash. I've still got three maglites and one other (forget the brand/model) D-cell LED flashlights, and several family members also have D-maglites; many of which were gifts from us over the years. The benefits of lithium primaries are substantial enough that it would be nice to have both the added runtime and added shelf-life of lithiums with D's, just as we have with AA's, AAA's, and 9-volts.

It's not keeping me up at night or anything, but it sure would be nice and is definitely something I'd pay extra for. Most of our lights (and other things) nowadays are CR123 or AA units; definitely agree with the concept of latching onto newer tech at times. But there are times when that's not an attractive option - our survey meters are all D-cell units, and there's no way around it as they were made in the 50's-60's and they are what they are. For those and a few other things, the only reasonable options that I know of are either plain old alkaline D's or D-adapters for AA lithiums. (We do both.)

Whether or not it would be economically viable for any mfr to actually make them, I can't say. I assume not, since nobody does. But they'd sure sell me some, and I suspect there are a lot of people - and a lot of agencies - with D-cell flashlights that would switch to them in a heartbeat. Right now we pay $1.70 for AA Ultimate Lithiums; I'd probably pay $6-$8 without complaining for D's.
Link Posted: 10/30/2015 3:26:14 PM EDT
[#10]
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It's not keeping me up at night or anything, but it sure would be nice and is definitely something I'd pay extra for. Most of our lights (and other things) nowadays are CR123 or AA units; definitely agree with the concept of latching onto newer tech at times. But there are times when that's not an attractive option - our survey meters are all D-cell units, and there's no way around it as they were made in the 50's-60's and they are what they are. For those and a few other things, the only reasonable options that I know of are either plain old alkaline D's or D-adapters for AA lithiums. (We do both.)

Whether or not it would be economically viable for any mfr to actually make them, I can't say. I assume not, since nobody does. But they'd sure sell me some, and I suspect there are a lot of people - and a lot of agencies - with D-cell flashlights that would switch to them in a heartbeat. Right now we pay $1.70 for AA Ultimate Lithiums; I'd probably pay $6-$8 without complaining for D's.
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Since you're willing to pay some cash, just go out and buy a Maha 808M 8 bay charger and some Tenergy Premium NiMH D batteries.  I was looking last night on Ebay and other places and we can get them for as little as $7.29 at Battery Junction and on Ebay at about ~$60 for 8, shipped.

They get good marks and are cheaper than the Maha/PowerEx and Accupower brands and at 10,000mAh, they're right there with them in capacity.

The Tenergy Centuras are their LSD (low self discharge) offering, but have a bit less capacity.

Chris
Link Posted: 10/30/2015 6:15:59 PM EDT
[#11]
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Hmm... My eotech runs on AA's.  Is that not quality?

But yes, lots of kids toys run on AAs and AAAs.
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I don't know how you guys aren't rotating through AA's in 7 years.  Maybe it's because I have kids, but I go through AA's and AAA's at astounding rates.  I think we just went through a 36 pack of AA's in about 3-4 months.

At this point I'm more worried about cost per battery, than shelf life or maximum output.


+1


I was actually thinking the exact opposite.

I bought a 16 pack of Duracell alkaline AA's probably 5 years ago ... just went to find it and the batteries "expired" in Mar 2015.  It doesn't list then they were made, but I assume 4-5 years ago.

Funny thing is, I still have 3 left in the pack!

So I only use a few a year, and that's with living with 2 other people.

Let's see ... 1 every other year or so for Yamaha receiver remote control ... A wireless mouse burns another about every year ... that's about it.

I have never understood the AA craze, or how people manage to burn through so many.  Is it just kids toys that always need AAs?

Anything quality ... doesn't run on AA, let alone AAA.  I think the only thing I own that takes a AAA is a TI calculator.  Seriously.

I've bought more 9v batteries in the past few years to replace beeping smoke alarms in the building hallways than I have anything else ... excluding 3400 mAh 18650s, which is really what you should be buying.



Hmm... My eotech runs on AA's.  Is that not quality?

But yes, lots of kids toys run on AAs and AAAs.


Regarding the Eotech ... lots of people would say "no", unfortunately.

It's my favorite reticle to use, I used to own 2 of them, but reliability over the years has been ... sketchy, to say the least.  No shortage of battery / system failure threads on arfcom regarding EOtechs.

Link Posted: 11/9/2015 8:01:11 PM EDT
[#12]
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I don't know how you guys aren't rotating through AA's in 7 years.  Maybe it's because I have kids, but I go through AA's and AAA's at astounding rates.  I think we just went through a 36 pack of AA's in about 3-4 months.

At this point I'm more worried about cost per battery, than shelf life or maximum output.
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You are in a situation where you need to use Eneloops. They are rechargeable NiMH AA cells and they actually perform better under heavier loads than Alkaline stuff.

You will save lots of coin over the years.

Link Posted: 11/9/2015 8:03:17 PM EDT
[#13]
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Lithum cells cost several bucks apiece. Alkalines cost several dozen cents apiece.

There are plenty of applications where the much higher cost of lithiums simply can't be justified.
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The absolute best way to store alkaline or carbon-zinc AA or AAA batteries is to seal one or two of them in a small bag, toss 'em in some dark corner of your fridge, and forget about them.

Small, sealed bags prevent moisture from condensing on chilled batteries. Cartridge boxes do not.
the best way to store them is to buy lithium. alkaline batteries suck ass. but you should already be using eneloops so have a way to charge them.
 


Lithum cells cost several bucks apiece. Alkalines cost several dozen cents apiece.

There are plenty of applications where the much higher cost of lithiums simply can't be justified.


There are some applications where Lithiums make sense. They have advantages of:

1. Work in cold weather when Alkalines shut down

2.  Don't leak

3. have much higher capacity especially under heavy load.

I use either L91 lithiums, CR123A or plain eneloops.

Alkalines in all sizes have ruined plenty of devices for me.
Link Posted: 11/9/2015 8:05:21 PM EDT
[#14]
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Yeah, I wrote the post about 'battery training.'

The point of my last reply was to point out that while Eneloops and/or other quality rechargeables are the way to go, it might be easier for parents to just grab a sleeve of AAs and AAAs from Costco for not a lot of cash, even though they might add up over the course of a year, or they might leak.

People lose things all of the time, so stuff happens.  Hell, I just pitched a MiniMag 2xAA into the trash because my alkaleaks leaked and I had just cleaned it out after another set had leaked.  I knew better.  

I was too lazy to install some of my lithium AAs in it and I didn't want to keep my Eneloops in a light in my truck, so screw me two ways to Sunday.

Chris
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I think his response was to SR712 and the post above his that said it's time for rechargeable battery training. If things were really that simple it would be an easy fix but they aren't that simple.

FWIW, I've also lost eneloops and I'm the grown adult that knows what they are and what they look like, knows how much they cost and hates losing them. But sometimes stuff happens, there is a nice 4Sevens flashlight with 2 eneloops in it at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean near Cape Canaveral, FL from a bone-headed mistake I made...  It can happen much more easily with people that are less aware or have a lower level of "give a shit" regarding the battery topic...  My wife has lost fewer eneloops than I have, and my child is too young to lose them herself.... but my day is coming...


Yeah, I wrote the post about 'battery training.'

The point of my last reply was to point out that while Eneloops and/or other quality rechargeables are the way to go, it might be easier for parents to just grab a sleeve of AAs and AAAs from Costco for not a lot of cash, even though they might add up over the course of a year, or they might leak.

People lose things all of the time, so stuff happens.  Hell, I just pitched a MiniMag 2xAA into the trash because my alkaleaks leaked and I had just cleaned it out after another set had leaked.  I knew better.  

I was too lazy to install some of my lithium AAs in it and I didn't want to keep my Eneloops in a light in my truck, so screw me two ways to Sunday.

Chris
s

I gave a D sized Mag to someone and they lost it due to leaky cells.  This is the pattern. Discharge it. Then keep bad discharged cells in it for a year, especially in cold weather. The cells leak, destroy the light. AA, C and D alkalines.
Link Posted: 11/9/2015 8:08:40 PM EDT
[#15]
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They do and yes you will...




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Quoted:...I don't have many alkalines around, but the D batteries that I do have...

Man, I'd pay handsomely for lithium D cells if anyone would just make them. I don't have a lot of things that use D's anymore, but it would sure be nice to have the option of lithium in the old maglites & such that we do still have. Do have the AA-to-D adapters as a last-ditch option, but that's kind of weak compared to what a genuine lithium D would probably offer.



They do and yes you will...






There is no market for this... but I hear you.

Everyone is moving into rechargeable cells. The D cell under a heavy load has the same capacity as 18650 cell. Which is smaller. Incredible but true.

The D cell and it's very high mAh rating makes sense for a very low mAh device.

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