I have a Huskie 445 with an 18” bar that I store at my BOL and I’m having problems with it cutting. The wood I’m cutting  is older northern AZ Juniper and Pinion pine, typically is been dead for about 4-5 years and the standard chains just will not cut it. I’ve re-sharpened them with the correct tools and even bought a new standard chain, but the chains just end up burning their way through instead of cutting. The bar oiler works well and the chain tension is good. Is there a particular type of chain I should be using for older wood?

How are you "resharpening" them and what is your experience in sharpening chains? Unless you are using something like a Granberg etc....I hate to say it but you probably aren't getting them as sharp as you think.....I've known many woodsmen in my life but DAMN FEW that could hand sharpen a chain that was truly sharp.

I use the exact same saw.  I run a chisel chain.  Some refer to it as round or full chisel.

Some good info in this old thread:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/669643_Chain_saw_Chains.html

With a small saw like the 445 you need to keep it as sharp as possible.  I typically run a file on the chain every other gas tank full if not every.  Don't forget the rakers.  Also make sure you have the right size file.  I don't recall which size is used for that .325 chain.  

What are you referring to as standard chain?  If your running a "safety" chain, which I am pretty sure comes on the 445 new then its going to be slow going on anything big.

Also keep in mind that the 445 is a small saw.  Bucking anything close to the size of the bar will be slow going.

Lots of youtube vids and info on the net.  If you have any specific questions I would be glad to help, as I use the same saw most of the time.  Take some close up pictures of your chain so we can see the type and how your sharpening it.

I'm a novice saw owner, I was using the angle jig and files from this link and my hand fitting skills are quite good. It was OK at first, but dulled very quickly.



it was the original chain, the biggest log I've tried to cut has been 14-15" or so.

Not familiar with trees out there, but I can cut creosote treated railroad ties and telephone poles without issues...not sure what your deal is, but I would say technique if you are smoking new chains.

If you are cutting trees of any size, I like a 50cc min.

Check your rakers and make sure they are not too high.  I file mine down a bit now and then when I sharpen.  Even if your saw is underpowered it should still create chips of a decent size.

2 things come to mind.

1. Your chain. Have it sharpened at the dealer. And buy a couple of extra. I have 4 chains for my Stihl and they sharpen them for like $5 each.
2. Don't push the saw, let it do the work. If you try to pushing thorough it will heat up the chain and dull very quickly. Let the tool do the work. Unless you are using a very large saw they won't cut quite as fast as you think. Let the weight of the saw do more then you pushing.

Just wanted to repeat this:



You should be using chaps and eyes and ears at all times too.

First, make sure you have proper safety gear: chaps, steel toe boots and helmet for felling.


Then, go buy yourself a SECOND bar and chain. Oil it for storage and don't use it. This is your emergency bar. WHEN you pinch your bar in a tree, simply take the chain saw off the bar and leave the bar stuck. Put on your spare bar and cut yourself out. Then think about what you did wrong.




BUY BETTER CHAIN. The crap that saws are shipped with is great for lawyers, horrible for cutting wood. I use THIS, but get sized for what fits your saw, bar. Oregon makes good stuff, so check what they offer for your requirements. What I linked to isn't as aggressive as professional series chain (which I have for bucking BIG logs), but it is still anti-kickback, and a good all-around chain. Especially for a novice user.




TAKE YOUR TIME. Like has been said, you are running a smaller saw. Let the chain do the work, don't push too hard. All you will do by pushing is dull your chain, become fatigued, and put unnecessary wear and tear on your saw.




USE GOOD BAR OIL. The cheap stuff has the viscosity of water during summer months. I like using Husky oil. Isn't as thick as Stihl oil, but half the price. I actually use the cheap oil for when I have to cut in winter in sub zero temps.




WEDGES: Get some plastic wedges. Plastic so you can cut into them (accidentally) without damaging your chain. When cutting, keep a couple in your back pocket. These will save you from pinching your bar, and can help fell stubborn trees.




That is all I've got for now.


 

*Edited above.

Good point, you want ALL your chains/sprocket/bar to wear in evenly. Adding a new chain to a saw with a worn sprocket or bar can be detrimental to the longevity of the chain. Most saw manufacturers recommend having 4 chains that you rotate with 2 sprockets in rotation, and 1 bar. All 4 chains, both sprockets, and the bar should all come to the end of their life around the same time.

Most people aren't even aware that the sprocket is a wear-item and needs changed frequently...


I will reinforce this^^^ Wedges are a very important part of felling; one that I never understood until the last few years. If you go through any professional feller training wedges are a key part of their gear and they use them ALL THE TIME. Not just to fell trees, but also for bucking. Keep a wedge in your back pocket and "palm a wedge" into the kerf ASAP to keep it from closing up on you.

One thing I really like to show new saw operators is the value of a wedge. I intentionally cut a log that is sagging in the middle from the top down to the bottom until the top closes up on me. Then I put a wedge in the top of the kerf, and strike DOWN on the wedge. The wedge action LIFTS the log back UP. It seems counter intuitive that pounding DOWN on something stuck in the log can life it UP, but it works... I then show them how much easier it is to just stick the wedge in by hand BEFORE the kerf closes up on the chain.

Make sure that the chain is not on backwards. Sharks swim forward...

Thanks for all the great responses, you've all given me plenty to think about

To keep the chains sharp, I use the Stihl bits matched to the chain size.  You're supposed to use the Stihl sharpener, as the ends of the bits are threaded.  The bits fit into the chuck of the cordless Harbor Freight Dremel equivalent.  The Stihl chains have witness lines on the teeth to help keep the right angle without jigs or guides.  One cordless tool, one bit, and I have all the kit I need to keep the chain sharp.  It doesn't take much to touch up the chain.

I wouldn't say you need to bring your chains to a dealer to have them sharpened.  It doesn't take much skill to sharpen a chain with a round file.  Keep the angle best you can.  That's it.  I know mechanical sharpeners do a better job but I haven't had to many issues just doing them by hand.  I was taught you use the chain on the saw until the teeth are sharpened beyond usability.  Replace the chain and go from there.  I have never wore a sprocket out, never wore out the sprocket side of the chain.

Like I said every one is an expert, and has their own way of doing it.  Give a couple different options a try and see what works best for you.

All methods aside, a sharp chain is a happy chain and chaps are worth their weight in gold.

Very true.

 

Friend of the family does tree work for a living for the last 30 years. Has sharpened all his chains by hand with a round file stuck in a handle.

Oh, make sure you grease the tip sprocket of your bar (if equipped) at least daily, I grease before the job and during lunch.

Before you start cutting, test your bar oiling system by running the saw at half throttle or so in the air and watch the oil spray off the chain and onto something (tire, already cut piece, etc). Sucks to learn the oiler is clogged when you are half way through a log... Don't ask me how I know

I use that very same husquavarna angle jig to sharpen my chain, and it works fantastic for me.  I never used to be good at getting them sharp but since buying it and watching the video my chains have almost been factory sharp.

You have a saw which is generally reliable, but it's not known as a high performer.  That said, remove the current chain and take it to your local Stihl dealer.  Tell them that you want a few Stihl RSC chains.  Also, be sure to use a quality bar/chain oil and fill that reservoir every time you fill the saw with gas.    When your chain dulls, replace it with a fresh one.  When done, take the dull chains back to the dealer and have them professionally sharpened.  

This is the best approach for a novice low/medium volume wood cutter.

This is great info.

ETA - I went to this site to learn a lot about running a chainsaw, beyond what I thought I knew. It was extremely helpful.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/food/small-farms/safety/safe-chainsaw-operation/

How many chains have you gone through in your lifetime? Do you know what a worn sprocket looks like? As I alluded to above, most people have no clue that the sprocket is a wear item, let alone what signs to look for in a worn sprocket. We recently had a thread a month or so ago in which a well regarded member was having issues with the tension on his chains. Worn sprocket was the culprit; he was ignorant of the fact that his sprocket needed replaced because it had never been taught to him. Upon providing pictures, his sprocket was SEVERELY worn. Yes, the sprocket will still function well past it's intended life so most people won't even realize that it needs replaced, but it will cause other issues...


The information I gave comes DIRECTLY from the chainsaw manufacturers. I think they would have more expertise than anybody here... Sure, you can give a couple different options a try, but I will just go with the manufacturer recommended practice.

I never said you were wrong, I just said there are different ways of doing things...  Every one probably thinks there way is best.  That's all...  Stay CALM

Manufactures say to change the sprocket every other chain. I have never done that.  Never had any issues related to that. I am not a professional though, nor do I work for a chainsaw manufacturer so I will just share a link from Husqvarna.

http://husqvarna.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/774/~/product-support---how-often-should-i-replace-the-drive-sprocket-on-my-chain-saw%3F

I don't do a lot of things manufactures recommend.  Some times I do more then the manufactures recommend.  (Manufactures in general.)

Chains myself? between two saws (372xp & 445) some where around a dozen over the past several years.  I used saws a lot more back when I was in school and worked excavation & logging.  Now I use a saw just enough to provide wood for heating my house.  

Upgrading chains, having multiple chains ready to go and keeping them sharp are phase one.  If you can sharpen knives by hand, you can learn chains.  There are good videos out there.  Stihl has a bunch of great videos on their web site.

If you get a new chain and your saw still won't cut under it's own weight, the bar is smoked.  By a new one.  Over time the the channel in the bar that chain runs in will wear unevenly.  This will cause the chain to slant or tilt to one side.  Then even a new chain won't cut for shit.  To avoid this, you periodically "flip the bar" meaning take it off and put it back on upside down.  This makes for longer bar life but having a spare bar is important too.  I run Stihl saws but my friends who run Hiskies follow the same routine.

I never buy saws, mowers or any gas run item from big box stores.  Reason is many of the private dealers are experts with their products.  They will take the time to set you up right, educate you and of course support you.  Take your saw to the best shop around and take all the advice given here too.  Discuss it with them.

A lot of people can't sharpen anything worth a damn.  Nowhere does it show up more then in chainsaws and filet knives.