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Posted: 3/1/2015 9:44:27 AM EDT
Slightly rounded or well rounded on the edge profile? Which is better? I gather the flat ground bits are for carving or log cutting. Does the curvature of the edge help it fell trees faster?

Gransfors Bruks have only a slight radius on their felling axes and hatchets.




Link Posted: 3/1/2015 10:21:36 AM EDT
[#1]
For simplicity, I just flat grind mine. Cuts very well, but tighter chance of getting stuck in wood.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 11:15:30 AM EDT
[#2]
That looks like a thicker blade than the Scandinavian axes. Can't tell exactly. Need a top view.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 11:47:44 AM EDT
[#3]
I've recently read a bigger curve works better in soft woods because of the resins and a slighter curve is better for hardwoods.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 12:23:52 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
For simplicity, I just flat grind mine. Cuts very well, but tighter chance of getting stuck in wood.
View Quote


Not talking about the convex grind, but the rounded profile of the blade.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 12:25:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
That looks like a thicker blade than the Scandinavian axes. Can't tell exactly. Need a top view.
View Quote


On the left is a Swedish Banko. The right is a condor. The Condor is definitely thicker.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 12:28:28 PM EDT
[#6]
I've seen a bigger curve for green wood and flat for seasoned.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 1:05:19 PM EDT
[#7]
To be honest I don't think its super critical.  As long as you keep it sharp with a bit of a convex the axe will do what its designed to do.  Obviously a wider profile splits better while narrow cheeks will chop better.  I personally sharpen my axes in hand to a convex edge.  I would just say do what feels natural for the particular axe your sharpening.  Defiantly want smooth lines, no second bevel, one continuous convex edge, however the thickness of "cheeks" or edge is totally dependent on how the user wants them.  Just my 2c.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 1:25:45 PM EDT
[#8]
Does it have to do with weight/size?

My W.C Kelley Perfect axe has a slight convex like the one above on the left. My smaller Hultafors Hunter's Axe has more curve to it like the one on the right.

One made for felling and one made for limbing? Maybe?
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 1:40:29 PM EDT
[#9]
I'm actually not referring to the grind itself but the shape of the bit from top to bottom. Otherwise I would have said convex vs flat grind.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 1:41:20 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Does it have to do with weight/size?

My W.C Kelley Perfect axe has a slight convex like the one above on the left. My smaller Hultafors Hunter's Axe has more curve to it like the one on the right.

One made for felling and one made for limbing? Maybe?
View Quote


That is my question also
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 2:31:03 PM EDT
[#11]
I just chopped through a treated 4x4 post just to try it out a bit. Each hit penetrated about 3/4" to 1". It was not quick as I would have liked but the bit never got close to sticking. I think a bit thinner would work well too.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 2:40:43 PM EDT
[#12]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I've seen a bigger curve for green wood and flat for seasoned.
View Quote




 
I've noticed that more curved chops better in green hard wood.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 9:20:41 PM EDT
[#13]
I asked my neighbor, he's an old man that worked in forestry his whole life. He said that the more convex the blade the more it will penetrate and the straighter blades take out more chunks of wood when trying to fell a tree.

But he also thinks if you swallow a teaspoon of cod liver oil every morning you won't ever get sick.... So, he might be full of shit on the axe blades....
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 9:32:17 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I asked my neighbor, he's an old man that worked in forestry his whole life. He said that the more convex the blade the more it will penetrate and the straighter blades take out more chunks of wood when trying to fell a tree.

But he also thinks if you swallow a teaspoon of cod liver oil every morning you won't ever get sick.... So, he might be full of shit on the axe blades....
View Quote

Link Posted: 3/1/2015 9:42:24 PM EDT
[#15]
When you look at the very highly evolved shapes they used back when they were the #1 tool there was a lot of variation by region and purpose. One of the main things though is just to be able to rock the axe out easily.


ETA:
They say curved is stronger at the bottom:
http://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/axe-knowledge/caring-for-your-axe/sharpening/

Link Posted: 3/2/2015 5:01:05 PM EDT
[#16]
You need to watch some Youtube videos from Wranglerstar.  All you ever needed to know about axes.
Link Posted: 3/2/2015 5:26:02 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
When you look at the very highly evolved shapes they used back when they were the #1 tool there was a lot of variation by region and purpose. One of the main things though is just to be able to rock the axe out easily.
http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm99232823/images/fig009.jpg

ETA:
They say curved is stronger at the bottom:
http://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/axe-knowledge/caring-for-your-axe/sharpening/

View Quote


I had read that link before and forgotten about it. Thank you for posting it.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 2:32:05 PM EDT
[#18]
I believe there's a balancing act going on between the profile and the edge geometry. You want it to sink in but not become stuck.

I'm no expert and hadn't seriously considered the profile vs grind geometry and how they both will affect performance. Then you have the variable of type of wood, how green/ seasoned/frozen it is, etc.

I'm generally much more concerned with edge geometry than profile because of efficiency of cut. I like a fairly shallow convex grind because it works best for what I do with an axe/hatchet. I use it a lot to carve with. Fuzz sticks, triggers, camp implements. Less to chop up seasoned hardwood, although it does ok, providing appropriate technique is used where you're popping chips out and not just sticking it in the wood.

This dilemma is one reason Nesmuk preferred a double bit hatchet. (I don't care for them but he had is reasons). A keen edge and a blunter edge in one tool.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 2:55:10 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I believe there's a balancing act going on between the profile and the edge geometry. You want it to sink in but not become stuck.

I'm no expert and hadn't seriously considered the profile vs grind geometry and how they both will affect performance. Then you have the variable of type of wood, how green/ seasoned/frozen it is, etc.

I'm generally much more concerned with edge geometry than profile because of efficiency of cut. I like a fairly shallow convex grind because it works best for what I do with an axe/hatchet. I use it a lot to carve with. Fuzz sticks, triggers, camp implements. Less to chop up seasoned hardwood, although it does ok, providing appropriate technique is used where you're popping chips out and not just sticking it in the wood.

This dilemma is one reason Nesmuk preferred a double bit hatchet. (I don't care for them but he had is reasons). A keen edge and a blunter edge in one tool.
View Quote



Yeah,several of my double bits, like the old plumb I got from my dad, have different profiles. It is nice to have a tough bit for swamping and working near the ground and a finer one for chopping. I agree though double bit hatchets are, well, quite dangerous.



The real balance with edge shape/curvature is with the hang - it is directly related to the openness of the bit. That draws from the poll and whole head shape. The wrong curvature with the wrong hang makes for an axe that will skip and is also quite dangerous. Hang referring to the angle of the edge with respect to the handle.



ETA:
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 9:45:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


On the left is a Swedish Banko. The right is a condor. The Condor is definitely thicker.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
That looks like a thicker blade than the Scandinavian axes. Can't tell exactly. Need a top view.


On the left is a Swedish Banko. The right is a condor. The Condor is definitely thicker.


Gah this axe thing of mine!  I can't shake it!  I just got the Husqvarna carving ax but really want that condor!!
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 10:41:23 PM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Gah this axe thing of mine!  I can't shake it!  I just got the Husqvarna carving ax but really want that condor!!
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That looks like a thicker blade than the Scandinavian axes. Can't tell exactly. Need a top view.


On the left is a Swedish Banko. The right is a condor. The Condor is definitely thicker.


Gah this axe thing of mine!  I can't shake it!  I just got the Husqvarna carving ax but really want that condor!!


I really want a Gransfors Bruks small hatchet but I can't afford it right now. That doesn't require any re contouring like the Condor. They are similar in size.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 10:43:10 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Gah this axe thing of mine!  I can't shake it!  I just got the Husqvarna carving ax but really want that condor!!
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That looks like a thicker blade than the Scandinavian axes. Can't tell exactly. Need a top view.


On the left is a Swedish Banko. The right is a condor. The Condor is definitely thicker.


Gah this axe thing of mine!  I can't shake it!  I just got the Husqvarna carving ax but really want that condor!!


Its a sickness...  You should try coming to one of our meetings.  Though it doesn't really help much.  
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 10:44:00 PM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Its a sickness...  You should try coming to one of our meetings.  Though it doesn't really help much.  
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That looks like a thicker blade than the Scandinavian axes. Can't tell exactly. Need a top view.


On the left is a Swedish Banko. The right is a condor. The Condor is definitely thicker.


Gah this axe thing of mine!  I can't shake it!  I just got the Husqvarna carving ax but really want that condor!!


Its a sickness...  You should try coming to one of our meetings.  Though it doesn't really help much.  


Are  you bringing any new axes to the next meeting?
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 10:52:30 PM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Are  you bringing any new axes to the next meeting?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That looks like a thicker blade than the Scandinavian axes. Can't tell exactly. Need a top view.


On the left is a Swedish Banko. The right is a condor. The Condor is definitely thicker.


Gah this axe thing of mine!  I can't shake it!  I just got the Husqvarna carving ax but really want that condor!!


Its a sickness...  You should try coming to one of our meetings.  Though it doesn't really help much.  


Are  you bringing any new axes to the next meeting?


The first rule of axe club is we don't talk about axe club.  
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 11:36:09 PM EDT
[#25]
Ask these guys, they seem to know about axes !!!








Link Posted: 3/5/2015 12:26:35 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Its a sickness...  You should try coming to one of our meetings.  Though it doesn't really help much.  
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That looks like a thicker blade than the Scandinavian axes. Can't tell exactly. Need a top view.


On the left is a Swedish Banko. The right is a condor. The Condor is definitely thicker.


Gah this axe thing of mine!  I can't shake it!  I just got the Husqvarna carving ax but really want that condor!!


Its a sickness...  You should try coming to one of our meetings.  Though it doesn't really help much.  


I'm not sick - I have a disease lol.
pics here -
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1518688_.html&r=0&qte=1
Link Posted: 3/5/2015 3:00:21 PM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Yeah,several of my double bits, like the old plumb I got from my dad, have different profiles. It is nice to have a tough bit for swamping and working near the ground and a finer one for chopping. I agree though double bit hatchets are, well, quite dangerous.



The real balance with edge shape/curvature is with the hang - it is directly related to the openness of the bit. That draws from the poll and whole head shape. The wrong curvature with the wrong hang makes for an axe that will skip and is also quite dangerous. Hang referring to the angle of the edge with respect to the handle.



ETA:
http://thewoodslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/proper-ax-hang.jpg
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I believe there's a balancing act going on between the profile and the edge geometry. You want it to sink in but not become stuck.

I'm no expert and hadn't seriously considered the profile vs grind geometry and how they both will affect performance. Then you have the variable of type of wood, how green/ seasoned/frozen it is, etc.

I'm generally much more concerned with edge geometry than profile because of efficiency of cut. I like a fairly shallow convex grind because it works best for what I do with an axe/hatchet. I use it a lot to carve with. Fuzz sticks, triggers, camp implements. Less to chop up seasoned hardwood, although it does ok, providing appropriate technique is used where you're popping chips out and not just sticking it in the wood.

This dilemma is one reason Nesmuk preferred a double bit hatchet. (I don't care for them but he had is reasons). A keen edge and a blunter edge in one tool.



Yeah,several of my double bits, like the old plumb I got from my dad, have different profiles. It is nice to have a tough bit for swamping and working near the ground and a finer one for chopping. I agree though double bit hatchets are, well, quite dangerous.



The real balance with edge shape/curvature is with the hang - it is directly related to the openness of the bit. That draws from the poll and whole head shape. The wrong curvature with the wrong hang makes for an axe that will skip and is also quite dangerous. Hang referring to the angle of the edge with respect to the handle.



ETA:
http://thewoodslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/proper-ax-hang.jpg


I do find that on smaller axes/hatchets I like a fairly closed hang. It makes the edge work almost like a Kurkri knife, really biting into the wood.

Seems as though the Scandinavians already know this as every one I have is just about right in that regard.
Link Posted: 3/5/2015 3:10:16 PM EDT
[#28]
I like a neutral hang if the handle is horizontal just to clear my knuckles.
Link Posted: 3/5/2015 6:11:00 PM EDT
[#29]
This turn of the century Kelly Patented boy's axe came out just right for me - I'm also working on a Plumb Cruiser, but this is my favorite head so far.



I haven't hung any of my old US hatchets yet. Now that you mention it, I noticed the Whetterlings hatchet I love is a bit past half way towards closed. More gratuitous blade porn -
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