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Posted: 7/23/2014 4:18:39 PM EDT
Ever since I first saw them 15yrs or so ago I was fascinated by them.  The obvious disadvantage is that once you open them, they're open.  But until that point they are pretty much sealed off from the world.  As long as you don't throw them in a fire, off a cliff or run over them with a vehicle they should be good to go for a LOOONNNGG time.  Perfect example would be 7.62x54r from WWI.  That stuff is around 100yrs old and it fires just fine because it's been completely sealed for all that time.  

I also like them because it's an easy way to store and move a decent amount of rounds.  Sure you can do the same with traditional ammo cans but with those you have to worry about the gaskets wearing out.  

Anyway, from a prepper standpoint I've I've included one in a cache that is specifically designated for my son so he'll have a decent supply to run through the rifle that's also in that container.  Anyone else store/designate this ammo for a specific purpose other than for the range?  Anyone tried burying one to see how they hold up?  I'm curious to see how the rest of yall view and have used your spam cans of ammo?

Thanks

-Emt1581
Link Posted: 7/23/2014 6:29:15 PM EDT
[#1]
I have a few Russian in 7.62x54r. I bought them as a cheap way to feed my PSL. Corrosive obviously but good ammo and the price can't be beat when compared to commercial 54r.
Link Posted: 7/23/2014 7:01:18 PM EDT
[#2]
There is thread in the reloading section on how to convert the fired cases to boxer primed with hand tools
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 10:17:39 AM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
There is thread in the reloading section on how to convert the fired cases to boxer primed with hand tools
View Quote


Not after my PSL ejects them they are pretty much scrap metal.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 11:16:11 AM EDT
[#4]
You can kind of duplicate that yourself.

Link Posted: 7/24/2014 11:22:37 AM EDT
[#5]
I've never had a gasket wear out on an ammo can.



As far as burying one, I don't think burying a metal can underground is that great of an idea.  




If you think you need to bury something, try a PVC tube.












Link Posted: 7/24/2014 11:38:38 AM EDT
[#6]
This is the kinda spam I like!
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 1:07:37 PM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:


Anyone tried burying one to see how they hold up?  I'm curious to see how the rest of yall view and have used your spam cans of ammo?





View Quote
wont hold up unless in a protective container



As soon as i get them, i open it, out in real ammo cans, works just as well, easy to open

 
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 2:09:49 PM EDT
[#8]
It is a good idea. I have recovered various calibers of ammunition buried in the dirt in Afghanistan (who knows how long there were down there- I will say the paint was oxidized off of the cans, so we had to open them to see what we had) and they were still airtight and the ammo worked. If i was going to do this in the elements (instead of in a building, say in a wall or the like)  like the taliban did, I think I would like to use something like heavy duty inner tube rubber to protect the can itself.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 5:49:09 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
You can kind of duplicate that yourself.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f360/quake316/preps/DSCN0874.jpg
View Quote


What kind of paint is that on the outside?  

Any special gasketing, descant, etc?  Or just paint, fill, and hammer shut?  

Thanks

-Emt1581
Link Posted: 7/25/2014 5:39:32 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What kind of paint is that on the outside?  

Any special gasketing, descant, etc?  Or just paint, fill, and hammer shut?  

Thanks

-Emt1581
View Quote

Porch paint. Epoxy paint would probably be better, but porch paint is pretty tough, and these aren’t exposed to the elements; just setting in non-climate-controlled space. So there’s no rain, UV issues, etc, to damage them excessively.

No gasketing as such. I paint the cans 3/4f the way or so when empty; the bottom and up 2/3 to 3/4 up the sidewalls all the way around, two thick sloppy coats. When dry, the bottom of the can gets marked with sharpie as to what is going in it before they get filled up, then put the ammo (or whatever) in. In gallon cans, it’s rifle stuff in its boxes. In quart cans, it’s handgun, .30 carbine, & .22lr without boxes, poured in there loose. Fill up in a good, climate-controlled environment. Have to remember that whatever the environmental conditions are when you fill up the cans, those conditions (other than temperature obviously) get sealed up in there permanently. If you fill & seal them in a humid shop, you’re sealing in that humidity forever with whatever you’re putting in there. For added seal, since there’s no gasket, once the top is tapped into place and I finish painting, I make a point of slopping a lot of paint into the channel where the lid mates with the can. Probably not necessary, but only takes a couple seconds and it does create a thick, plastic-like seal at the only seam in the equation; so I do it.
In the absence of factory boxes & packaging, the little quart cans hold a surprising amount. Three hundred 9mm, over 800 .22LR, and 175-250 of most others I use them for. On the gallons, capacity can vary hugely, depending on the factory packaging.

It’s an imperfect approach, as it’s a matter of fitting square boxes into round cans; so there’s definitely some wasted space filled with nothing but air. (Which is a reason to be conscious of the surrounding environment when filling/sealing.)

{edit - the thick paint where the lid mates with the can is the reason for those utility-knife blades taped to the top of the cans; for cutting thru the thick layer of paint for opening.}
Link Posted: 7/25/2014 8:52:41 AM EDT
[#11]
Something else to consider with the spam cans...not all of them come with an opener...i bought a 440 round , 7.62x54R tin which didnt come with an opener, and i didnt have one...i was away from my primary residence and had to use an electric angle grinder to cut it open enough to extract the ammo. Didnt like doing that at all with the obvious safety issues.

Unless you have extra tin openers..probably best to bust em open and re store them in another manner. Mobility is a concern too...they are kind of heavy and no handles or any way to attach them to anything, so storing the ammo in a container which you will be able to move easily should probably be a consideration.
Link Posted: 7/25/2014 11:25:12 AM EDT
[#12]
If it fits your needs, use it.



I have some in spam cans and part of the reason I did it is because it is sealed and set as to what it is.  No mispacking an ammo can and no one messing with it without it being obvious.  As far as not having an opener, many ways to pierce and cut metal so I don't care much on that.  Peeled a sardine can type open with a set of vice grips.



I would not pick it based on being in spam can only.



I also have ammo cans.  It is easy to fill all your ammo cans up.  Ammo cans keep going up in price.



I even like the wooden crates, it makes it easy to move or stack and several crates make a nice end table.
Link Posted: 7/25/2014 6:04:29 PM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Something else to consider with the spam cans...not all of them come with an opener...i bought a 440 round , 7.62x54R tin which didnt come with an opener, and i didnt have one...i was away from my primary residence and had to use an electric angle grinder to cut it open enough to extract the ammo. Didnt like doing that at all with the obvious safety issues.

Unless you have extra tin openers..probably best to bust em open and re store them in another manner. Mobility is a concern too...they are kind of heavy and no handles or any way to attach them to anything, so storing the ammo in a container which you will be able to move easily should probably be a consideration.
View Quote



Electric grinder is how I open all spam cans. If you just grind off the top of the crimp you can snap the top of the can back on ans when you empty the can you can still use it for other things.
They make great drain pans for changing the oil in the mower.
Link Posted: 7/25/2014 9:24:52 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Porch paint. Epoxy paint would probably be better, but porch paint is pretty tough, and these aren’t exposed to the elements; just setting in non-climate-controlled space. So there’s no rain, UV issues, etc, to damage them excessively.

No gasketing as such. I paint the cans 3/4f the way or so when empty; the bottom and up 2/3 to 3/4 up the sidewalls all the way around, two thick sloppy coats. When dry, the bottom of the can gets marked with sharpie as to what is going in it before they get filled up, then put the ammo (or whatever) in. In gallon cans, it’s rifle stuff in its boxes. In quart cans, it’s handgun, .30 carbine, & .22lr without boxes, poured in there loose. Fill up in a good, climate-controlled environment. Have to remember that whatever the environmental conditions are when you fill up the cans, those conditions (other than temperature obviously) get sealed up in there permanently. If you fill & seal them in a humid shop, you’re sealing in that humidity forever with whatever you’re putting in there. For added seal, since there’s no gasket, once the top is tapped into place and I finish painting, I make a point of slopping a lot of paint into the channel where the lid mates with the can. Probably not necessary, but only takes a couple seconds and it does create a thick, plastic-like seal at the only seam in the equation; so I do it.
In the absence of factory boxes & packaging, the little quart cans hold a surprising amount. Three hundred 9mm, over 800 .22LR, and 175-250 of most others I use them for. On the gallons, capacity can vary hugely, depending on the factory packaging.

It’s an imperfect approach, as it’s a matter of fitting square boxes into round cans; so there’s definitely some wasted space filled with nothing but air. (Which is a reason to be conscious of the surrounding environment when filling/sealing.)

{edit - the thick paint where the lid mates with the can is the reason for those utility-knife blades taped to the top of the cans; for cutting thru the thick layer of paint for opening.}
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
What kind of paint is that on the outside?  

Any special gasketing, descant, etc?  Or just paint, fill, and hammer shut?  

Thanks

-Emt1581

Porch paint. Epoxy paint would probably be better, but porch paint is pretty tough, and these aren’t exposed to the elements; just setting in non-climate-controlled space. So there’s no rain, UV issues, etc, to damage them excessively.

No gasketing as such. I paint the cans 3/4f the way or so when empty; the bottom and up 2/3 to 3/4 up the sidewalls all the way around, two thick sloppy coats. When dry, the bottom of the can gets marked with sharpie as to what is going in it before they get filled up, then put the ammo (or whatever) in. In gallon cans, it’s rifle stuff in its boxes. In quart cans, it’s handgun, .30 carbine, & .22lr without boxes, poured in there loose. Fill up in a good, climate-controlled environment. Have to remember that whatever the environmental conditions are when you fill up the cans, those conditions (other than temperature obviously) get sealed up in there permanently. If you fill & seal them in a humid shop, you’re sealing in that humidity forever with whatever you’re putting in there. For added seal, since there’s no gasket, once the top is tapped into place and I finish painting, I make a point of slopping a lot of paint into the channel where the lid mates with the can. Probably not necessary, but only takes a couple seconds and it does create a thick, plastic-like seal at the only seam in the equation; so I do it.
In the absence of factory boxes & packaging, the little quart cans hold a surprising amount. Three hundred 9mm, over 800 .22LR, and 175-250 of most others I use them for. On the gallons, capacity can vary hugely, depending on the factory packaging.

It’s an imperfect approach, as it’s a matter of fitting square boxes into round cans; so there’s definitely some wasted space filled with nothing but air. (Which is a reason to be conscious of the surrounding environment when filling/sealing.)

{edit - the thick paint where the lid mates with the can is the reason for those utility-knife blades taped to the top of the cans; for cutting thru the thick layer of paint for opening.}


I really like this idea, although instead of labeling the cans use a color code for different calibers, etc so thieves and prying eyes think its just paint in the cans and not ammo, parts,etc.

Im going to go find some paint cans now, thanks
Link Posted: 7/25/2014 9:26:58 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
You can kind of duplicate that yourself.

200+ Rounds

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f360/quake316/preps/DSCN0874.jpg
View Quote





Link Posted: 7/25/2014 9:40:19 PM EDT
[#16]
I have tons of spam cans. They are great for storing, but are a headache to open in a short amount of time. I have used the opener, but a screwdriver and tin snips is easier. All of my "ready" ammo goes in ammo cans. I wouldn't feel bad sealing a spam can up in a wall or other hiding place for use at a later date. I definitely wouldn't bury one unless it was in pvc.
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