to protect against corrosion ? my gun safe is in the garage so humidity is an issue.....I keep a couple damp ride closet bags in it bur noticed some rust on my mossberg so curious if you guys use something you swear by.....iI have  been just using CLP

Check out a Goldenrod as an alternative.

Birchwood Casey Barricade, formerly marketed as Sheath.... dessicant in gun safe

CLP and Mobil 1

This.

Mobil 1 .

Whatever 30w is on sale

I use CLP for most stuff. Bearing grease on my AK when I don't think I'll be shooting it for a while but still want it ready to go. CLP evaporates.

Frog lube.  I love that wintergreen and gun powder smell with every shot...

I use Damp-rid, two desiccant cans, and a goldenrod.

You can't be too careful when protecting your guns from rust.

For rust protection oil I really like Lucas Gun Oil sold at most auto parts stores.

It stays on for a long time without drying and has protected from rust better than any other oil I have tried.

For everyday use, I like a 2:1 mix of synthetic motor oil and synthetic ATF.

For heavy duty rust protection I use Superlube Grease.

FROG LUBE


I used CLP exclusively for 20 years, then GIBBS Brand, then G-96, then StrikeHold, now FROG LUBE.

FROG LUBE is best, in my opinion.

Pretty much any real oil will work.  (not wd40).  

The heavier the oil, the less it can evaporate away or migrate with gravity.   I like synthetic oils as they resist gumming up.  I don't like to go nuts with oil on wood stocked guns because it will migrate into the stock via gravity if you store them butt down.

Another good solution is grease, grease won't migrate until the temps get way up there.  (oil separates from carrier)

The next step beyond that is a paste wax.  I used Johnson paste wax on the iron table saw for years before reading about old time police waxing their blued revolvers instead of oiling them.

I use Rig applied with a Rig Rag.

Rig Universal Gun Grease

a light coat and you will not have any rust.

I have been wanting to try high temp bearing grease as well. I have a metric tons of that stuff and I see it daily for all out equipment.

MPro7 for everything. That shit is awesome.

CLP

Ezzox routinely scores very well for these sort of discussions.

boeshield





go look at the test on brownells and don't head the advice of the post above.



the caveat to this is the maint schedule, storing firearms is different that a normal inspection/use cycle. For a normal use cycle nearly anything will be fine.

in any humid environment it will rust, you dont happen to be in one
 

Fire clean

I've been wanting to try Fire Clean, but haven't yet. Everything I've seen about it is positive.

I use Rem Oil for the most part. It may not be the boutique brand of the month, but I got several large cans of it for free and I still have a couple of them remaining.

I did try some Italian Gun Grease recently, but I can't say I was impressed. I used some of their carbon remover and lube on my PWS FSC556 YHM suppressor QD mount. It got the carbon off fairly well, but the lube didn't help keep the mount from showing rust within a matter of days.

Breakfree CLP, loads of desiccant from shoe boxes, and a golden rod

This although I was thinking of looking for something with less of an oder for the hunting rifles. No complaints on its performance a all in any of my pistols, ARs, or other rifles

I use a mixture of 80-90 gear oil and STP oil treatment.  Works.

ditto!

Been using it for years and never a problem...............................ymmv

Internal lubrication and exterior rust protection are two different things.  While most products do both to a certain extent, using two different specialized products will get you better results.

I would use something that will leave a thin layer of residue on the exterior of the gun for the best rust protection.  Normal oil or lube is too thin and will evaporate or run off of the surface.  There are many good options, but some that I have used that work are:

- gun grease applied thinly with rag
- silicone spray lube applied with silicone rag
- WD40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor

A little surface rust isn't going to hurt much, but if not checked and cleaned regularly it can quickly escalate into pitting and permanent damage.

I would also install one or two golden rods, and maybe a rechargeable silica pack.  Also buy a cheap thermometer from Lowes/HD with a humidity gauge on it.  I have one outside my safe and one in it.  If the reading goes above 65% in the safe you need to take additional measures.  You want to keep it around 50-55%.  I'm sure some folks in the desert can maintain 30-35%, but in NC 50-55% is as low as you can get in a garage and your guns won't rust at that level.

 

Breakfree CLP (cleaner, lubricant, preservative) is effective for all-purpose uses, but pricey. To get the most "bang for your buck", I recomend:

1. Cheap motor oil - you get a quart for about 3 bucks or so. Use liberally on exterior metal parts for guns that will be in the safe for a while. Soldados in Latin America (tropical environment) swear by this stuff, also probably due to inavailability of anything else. you can apply this by pouring some on a paint brush and then just going at it.
2. white lithium grease-  this is especially effective when used sparingly on moving parts in semiauto firearms like the AR15 BCG (as well as machineguns for the mil guys), this is an economic substitute for things like T25 or frog lube. it won't evaporate or "blast out' like liquids, and will adhere to the  parts very well even after a fairly high round count. When you go to clean your gun, it wipes off easily and much of the powder debris will come off with it.
3. De-greasers- (things like carb cleaner or simple green) these work well for a TOTAL cleaning on firearms that are REALLY dirty from prolonged fire. Just remember that once you use these, the metal will be totally devoid of all lubrication, and must be re-lubed with whatever you decide to use. Also don't use these chemicals on firearms with nice wood stocks, like your all correct garand or your pre-64 Win model 70 in original ornate walnut stock.
4. general purpose greases- axle grease, bearing grease, etc.- if I was going to store something like a sks, AK, or the like for long term (like YEARS) I would use this, applied ALL OVER IT (its messy, so use disposable gloves) Wrap it in a piece of old bed sheet, then put the whole thing in a section of rubber tractor inner tube. The ends can be sealed with a gasket sealant. When the time comes to remove it, it may require some diesel or purple power and lots of rags/old toothbrushes(followed by motor oil re-lube).
5. While better than nothing, things like WD40 or rem oil pretty much suck. I have a can of rem oil in my truck to spray on my hunting rifle/shotgun as a convenient rust preventative after I'm done hunting for the day, before I case it to protect it- until I have time to clean it properly. Otherwise, these types of lubes are suitable for things like squeaky door hinges, sticky pliers or fishing reels, or the like.
Note: all of the chemicals, lubes, etc. mentioned in this post can be obtained at advance auto or a similar store

I don't claim any particular expertise or knowledge on this subject....however, the material you reference does not compare the two products, Also note that WD-40 seems comparable to the boeshield you note.

For rust prevention I like breakfree or royco.

For guns that are used frequently and cleaned frequently I used better lubes that do not protect as well.

This is what I use.  I do not have a severe moisture problem, but my guns stay in the downstairs room, which is mainly underground and on the damp side...

Breakfree CLP.

I just switched to Eezox

This when I have it,  synthetic oil when I can't

I use EEzox for storage
CLP for cleaning and Tetra oil and grease for lubrication...

I am going to have to try this stuff out so many use it and say it is good stuff

Personally, I'll use engine oil for engines and gun oils for guns.  And, also just MHO, grease is 1940's firearms lubrication technology and I would only consider grease if I were packing a gun for real long term storage.  I use Slip2000 and have had good results with not only hard use but also long term storage/light use.  I'll also suggest some type of desiccant in the safe!

WD40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor
Frog Lube
Rem Oil


Have Fire Clean.... Didn't get to use it yet.

Frog Lube

Clp.

I just always have. I think gun oil gets a bit too over thought.

Mobil One

i use Rand CLP

its worked fine for me so far..

Lucas full synthetic for the win! Run it on the moving parts as well. Long lasting and cheap. Been using it for 3 or 4 years with 5k through my ar never a issue

I've got lots of Militec that I use, fell in love with the stuff when deployed. It probably isn't the best in humid areas, though, and my guns are mostly inside and protected with desiccants. I also use Slip 2000 EWL and CLP, both of which work much better in humid environments.

didn't someone do an exhaustive review of all oils and found hornady one shot was the best at rust prevention.

Mostly CLP and Hoppe's because I have gallons of 'em.

The last 2 years I've been trying MotorKote as a finisher.

This shit doesn't evaporate near as quick as the standard "sewing machine" oils..

CLP for dusty environments, and Mobil1 for the range. Use Mobil1 sparingly because too much and you will get droplets of oil on your clothes etc.

ATF.

Motor oil is way too thick and will gum up on ya, especially if you are in a muddy or dusty environment. ATF also has a lot more of the desirable properties that make for a superior gun oil.

Lubriplate SFL-0 for grease on sliding parts.

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Found it! gun oil test

'

I had half a quart of this leftover from my last oil change. Works well.