I believe this information should be free, however I've worked long and hard to compile, verify, edit and reedit this sheet. You have my permission to recreate it as needed, but please do not steal the credit, I am not the researcher/chemist in this and they deserve the credit. Credit goes to LongHunterCO for his help editing. The SODIS graphic is not mine, it is however free to use and is available around the net translated into many languages.

If you EMAIL me and ask nicely I'll happily send the two page (front/back) word format that is given out at all of my classes. I suggest you add it to your BOB/BOV/BOL/

If you have thoughts, corrections or suggestions please feel free.

This is not medical advice, use at your own risk.



WATER TREATMENT
Boiling Boil the water for 1 full minute, then let it cool. If you are more than one mile above sea level, boil 3 minutes longer.

Distillation To distill, fill a pot halfway with water. Tie a cup to the handle on the pot's lid so that the cup will hang right-side-up when the lid is upside-down (make sure the cup is not dangling into the water) and boil the water for 20 minutes. The water that drips from the lid into the cup is distilled.

Pasteurization destroys all microorganisms that cause diseases from drinking contaminated water. A small polycarbonate tube contains a wax that melts when water or milk is heated enough to be pasteurized (65˚C/149˚F). This saves much fuel by eliminating the need to boil water. The WAPI (Water Pasteurization Indicator) is a reusable, inexpensive thermometer employing a plug of soybean wax which melts at 68˚C, just above the 65˚C or 149˚F pasteurization temperature for water
How to make due- Go to your kitchen and get your cooking thermometer. Test your thermometer's accuracy by placing it in plain boiling water. At sea level, it should read 212° F subtract 1 degree for every 500 feet above sea level. Use as a WAPI above.

Household bleach The bleach must contain chlorine in order to work. Don't use scented bleaches, color-safe bleaches, or bleaches with added cleaners. Most household chlorine bleaches have 4-6% available chlorine, in which case you should add 1/8 teaspoon (8 drops) of regular, unscented, liquid household bleach for each gallon of water (2 drops per Liter), stir it well and let it stand for 30 minutes before you use it. Check the label; if the percentage of available chlorine is around 1%, or you don't know what the percentage is, use 40 drops per gallon/ 10 drops per Liter; if the percentage is 7-10%, use 4 drops per gallon or 1 drop per Liter. Double the amount of chlorine if the water is cloudy, murky, or colored, or if the water is extremely cold. If after sitting covered for 30 minutes the water doesn't have a slight chlorine odor, repeat the dosage and let sit for another 15 minutes.

Granular calcium hypochlorite works in the same way as household bleach. You can dissolve one heaping teaspoon of high-test granular calcium hypochlorite (about 1/4 ounce) in two gallons of water (1 heaping tablespoon for every 7.5 Liter or 1 gram for every Liter of water) to make a disinfecting solution. Then add one part of the disinfecting solution to each 100 parts of water to purify; [2] ABOUT .25 oz. to a qt.

Filtration how well filters work depends to a great extent on the physical size of the pores in the filter medium. They suffer from several disadvantages: micro cracks or eroded channels within the filter may allow passage of unfiltered water, they can become contaminated, and no filters sold for field use are fine enough to remove virus particles (Hepatitis A, rotavirus, Norwalk virus, poliovirus, and others).

Reverse osmosis uses a membrane that is semi-permeable, allowing pure water to pass through it, while rejecting the contaminants that are too large to pass through the tiny pores in the membrane. Quality reverse osmosis systems use a process known as crossflow to allow the membrane to continually clean itself. As some of the fluid passes through the membrane the rest continues downstream, sweeping the rejected contaminants away from the membrane and down the drain. They are more susceptible to degradation by chlorine. This is one of the reasons why it is important that a reverse osmosis system include quality activated carbon pre-filters.

Iodine should not be used by persons with allergy to iodine, persons with active thyroid disease, or pregnant women, or continuous use for more than a few weeks at a time.. Note that Iodine and other halogens appear to be relatively ineffective at killing cyclospora, a troublesome diarrhea-causing bacteria Iodine Tincture & Iodine Topical Solution 2% 8 drops/liter. Lugol's Solution 5% 4 drops/liter. Povidone-Iodine (Betadine®) 10% 4 drops/liter. Tetraglycine hydroperiodide (Globaline®, Potable Aqua®, EDWGT®) 8 mg 1 tablet/liter. Addition of a small amount of vitamin C (50 mg) to your water after the contact time with the iodine will render the water nearly flavorless

S.O.D.I.S. which stands for Solar Water Decontamination, and requires only a source of fresh water, a clear plastic bottle and sunlight. Sunlight contains a great deal of ultraviolet radiation, which disrupts the genetic processes of bacteria reproduction and can destroy the microorganisms cell walls. Ultraviolet radiation also has an ionizing effect on the water itself, creating highly oxidative compounds like hydrogen peroxide, a common household antiseptic.

http://www.high-altitude-medicine.com/ http://www.wikihow.com/Purify-Water http://www.cdc.gov/
http://www.redcross.org http://www.fema.gov/plan/prepare/watermanage.shtm http://www.bushcraftstuff.com/uncate...-purification/ http://www.nrel.gov/docs/legosti/fy98/23110.pdf
Footnotes: For the purposes of this handout the use of Liter (L) and Quart (QT) are interchangeable units of liquid measure.
In general, if you are in a hurry double the chemical dose and halve the contact time; if you want better flavor halve the dose and double the contact time. If you believe the water may be heavily contaminated, double the chemical dose or double the contact time.
Lugol's Solution also contains 10% potassium iodide, increasing the dose of iodine ingested.

A copy of this post in PDF is available here thanks to SAWIN https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=5CAC39F3F5A343D5&id=5CAC39F3F5A343D5!209

Considering one of the local guys who has a degree and years of experience in this stuff has already given his blessing I'm betting it'll be for typos

Also, for SODIS you ought to add that the bottles used should be PET (recycling symbol with "1" inside). Many plastics and types of glass absorb UV, especially the short wavelength UV needed for solar disinfection.

ETA: I see that's in your figure. I mean you might want add a note in the write-up.

Smaller pore size is .01 micron (a 4 on bacteria) which is 10x smaller than .1 micron (a 2 on bacteria). The fact that 1 micron filters get a small rating against heavy metals, .1 don't and .01 does doesn't make sense but I've been unable to get research on .1 v heavy metals.

As far as UV here's the short version of the research I'd done, it's just the brag sheets from the SteriPen but it's pertinent. The pre-filter notes that there is no turbidity.
"According to testing performed at the University of Arizona, the University of Maine, and the Oregon Health Sciences University, UV light from the SteriPEN Protector effectively destroys more than 99.99% of viruses, 99.9% of protozoa, and 99.9999% of bacteria. This testing included viruses and bacteria such as: Salmonella Typhimurium, Cryptosporidum, E. coli Poliovirus, Streptococcus faecalis, Klebsiella terrigena, Rotavirus, Bacillus subtilis (vegitative and spore), common yeast, Giardia and Coliphage MS2 and more"

If you have research to the contrary please post it, I'd love to read it.



The chart is a quick reference guide in laymen terms to use the best method available for the exposure you have. Pot perm is not spelled out at all in the handout, but listed in the chart. Theoretically if you have some you'd have instructions with the chemicals.

Particle reduction also doesn't really work for UV treatments since there is no reduction, they're rendered inert. Since I'm not the researcher just compiling facts the common denominators aren't really there to make that kind of in depth chart easily readable.



Agreed however the space dedicated to explain that would push this past the front/back design of this sheet. Cuts had to be made, in my 2 hour demo I go through and explain all of that.

I'll link him here.

No, there really is an error in your table:





Look closely at the red boxes for all but the heavy metals. Your filtration scheme shows .01um > 1um > .1um when it should show .01um > .1um > 1um. Also, why do you give filtration any credit at all for removal of heavy metals or chemical contaminants? There are only two cases I can think of where filtration could help: 1) if the contaminants are insoluble and filter-out as aggregate. In this case, you'll end up with a contaminated filter element. 2) If an absorptive element like activated charcoal is used, but here the absorption doesn't have anything to do with the filter's physical pore size. [/quote]


[quote]Particle reduction also doesn't really work for UV treatments since there is no reduction, they're rendered inert. Since I'm not the researcher just compiling facts the common denominators aren't really there to make that kind of in depth chart easily readable.[/quote] (Not sure why this won't quote correctly...)



You're not looking for a reduction in the number of total particles but a reduction in the number of infective particles. Steripen's testing used a coliphage (a virus that infects E. coli) as their model for inactivation. They could expose two equal doses of phage to unequal treatments of UV and then test their infectivity. The metric used is called PFU or plaque forming units. They grow a solid lawn of E. coli cells and then treat the lawn with the test batch of phage. The phage lyse a clear disc of cells in the lawn and at the proper dilution you can count the individual clear spots and know exactly how many infective particles there were. There are studies out there comparing the toughness of the phage to other bugs that are transmitted through water, so a comparison can be made based solely on tests done on the phage.

Unfortunately, the paper that the Steripen literature cites is a conference proceedings and not a peer-reviewed journal article. That makes it hard for me to get a copy of and it also makes me wonder why they didn't ever publish their results.

[/quote]Now I see what you're saying but my chart says .1um<.01um. The filtration scheme is 2 items long, then there is a single line for filtration 1um w/ disinfectant (i.e. bleach or iodine) that happens to be next to the filter alone. I have been unable to find data for .1um w/disinfectant or .01um w/disinfectant, if I could it would be (based on assumption from the chart) .1um<.01um and 1um w/D=.1um w/D=.01um w/D I hope that makes sense. A reader could also infer from this chart that a cheap 1um filter w/ cheap disinfectant is > a more expensive .1um or .01um filtration alone for non heavy metal/chemical water treatments.

As far as contaminated filters; yes you'll end up with a contaminated filter no matter if it's a virus, bateria or heavy metals. That's the down side to filters.

As far as heavy metals in filtration, SOME heavy metals are able to be filtered out as aggregate. There are numerous papers on filtration of arsenic for instance. The reason they are referenced as a 1 (.1um a 0 as stated above) is to impart to the reader that even if it should remove some of the heavy metals, you should move to something with a 4.