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Posted: 3/13/2012 4:53:14 PM EST
I 'm scouring the net and have yet to find something out there for a DIY project to build a half decent fallout/storm/zombie etc shelter. I got a Kubota tractor with the backhoe/FEL for digging, 20+ acres where I live (I'm bugging in not out) and lots of GA pine. I don't want to have cement mixers coming in etc but want to do this out of site and no freaking gov't permits etc.The less people know the better. In other words the stuff needs to be hauled in via pickup truck/ trailer over time i.e. cement blocks/quickcrete and whatever else and be under the 5K price tag. My pitfall is the roof...3-4 feet of dirt is really going to push the limits if I go NBC/CBRNE proof so maybe just a foot under and if it comes to nukes...I'm praying and pulling my pins LOL. Anyone have any links or personal experience to share?
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 5:13:01 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/13/2012 5:13:15 PM EST by Mach]
Tag, I want one and don't have a backhoe
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 5:33:55 PM EST
Originally Posted By meddac:
I 'm scouring the net and have yet to find something out there for a DIY project to build a half decent fallout/storm/zombie etc shelter. I got a Kubota tractor with the backhoe/FEL for digging, 20+ acres where I live (I'm bugging in not out) and lots of GA pine. I don't want to have cement mixers coming in etc but want to do this out of site and no freaking gov't permits etc.The less people know the better. In other words the stuff needs to be hauled in via pickup truck/ trailer over time i.e. cement blocks/quickcrete and whatever else and be under the 5K price tag. My pitfall is the roof...3-4 feet of dirt is really going to push the limits if I go NBC/CBRNE proof so maybe just a foot under and if it comes to nukes...I'm praying and pulling my pins LOL. Anyone have any links or personal experience to share?



I think a member here, Buck? was building a shelter and had most of it excavated.

There's a lengthy thread about it from last year.


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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 5:36:23 PM EST
I would prep a shipping container and bury it. Put drainage around it and you could use that for grey water usage. PVC for vent piping. Culvert with rungs welded in for entrance. etc, etc...plan it out.
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 5:42:49 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/13/2012 5:44:05 PM EST by MedicOC]
I've looked at this several times and I keep going back to just using a large steel culvert. They are actually reasonably priced, (comparatively) and are relatively inconspicuous when being hauled. Most companies that manufacture the culvert pipes can weld a cap on both ends for you, all you would need would be to build a suitable door. And you can get them in 6 and 8 foot diameter. Partially fill the bottom with concete to provide level walking.

If you have a little bit of a hillside anywhere on the property, burying it would be a fairly easy proposition.


ETA: The benfit of using a culvert pipe is that it is designed to be buried, and able to hold and withstand heavy weights and pressures.
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 5:43:32 PM EST
Originally Posted By Shadow_Grey:
I would prep a shipping container and bury it. Put drainage around it and you could use that for grey water usage. PVC for vent piping. Culvert with rungs welded in for entrance. etc, etc...plan it out.


I don't know anything about foundations or the kind of loads involved, but bear in mind that shipping containers are not made to have force applied to their sides.
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 5:45:20 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/13/2012 5:46:05 PM EST by EXPY37]
Originally Posted By WhyTanFox:
Originally Posted By Shadow_Grey:
I would prep a shipping container and bury it. Put drainage around it and you could use that for grey water usage. PVC for vent piping. Culvert with rungs welded in for entrance. etc, etc...plan it out.


I don't know anything about foundations or the kind of loads involved, but bear in mind that shipping containers are not made to have force applied to their sides.


Or their top surface.

Or the bottom externally...



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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 5:47:17 PM EST
Shipping containers aren't spec'd for burial.

Hunt Craigslist for some 10 or 8 ft dia steel culvert pipe. Another option is to buy a big concrete septic tank (unused of course). I have seen these modified and sold as storm shelters.
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 5:52:48 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/13/2012 6:09:56 PM EST by rusteerooster]
I've been looking for info on this sort of thing for almost a year. I have come to the conclusion that, poured slab floor, 8" filled concrete block (with rebar) and the roof and door I have not a clue, then back fill and cover with dirt.

If there are any structural guys here a little help would be appreciated

BTW: I am thinking a 10' x 14' ID

I am looking to build a storm shelter not necessarly a bunker or fallout shelter.
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 5:58:39 PM EST


You CANNOT bury an unmodified shipping container.

I do agree with the others who suggest CSCP or an as-new septic tank. There are a couple companies who already use CSCP as storm shelters.

Alternatively, if you don't already have a house on your property, look into ICF's, monolithic domes, or Compressed Stabilized Earth Blocks (CSEB's) which are basically adobe, but no straw, ~10% concrete, and a whole lot of compression. I would argue you should save the money on a shelter, and just design and build your personal dwelling in a smart way...no need to hide it, no need to run through a storm to get to it, probably far less likely to have problems...
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 6:06:07 PM EST
Originally Posted By EXPY37:
Originally Posted By WhyTanFox:
I don't know anything about foundations or the kind of loads involved, but bear in mind that shipping containers are not made to have force applied to their sides.
Or their top surface.

Or the bottom externally...



Yes, you are correct.

They are only meant to bear loads on their columns (typically their corners but also inset a little bit on 45'/48'/53' containers)

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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 6:08:47 PM EST

Originally Posted By MedicOC:
I've looked at this several times and I keep going back to just using a large steel culvert. They are actually reasonably priced, (comparatively) and are relatively inconspicuous when being hauled. Most companies that manufacture the culvert pipes can weld a cap on both ends for you, all you would need would be to build a suitable door. And you can get them in 6 and 8 foot diameter. Partially fill the bottom with concete to provide level walking.

I wouldn't fill the floor with concrete. Aside from the expense, why lose all that potential storage space?



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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 6:14:25 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/13/2012 6:36:44 PM EST by EXPY37]
Originally Posted By rusteerooster:
I've been looking for info on this sort of thing for almost a year. I have come to the conclusion that, poured slab floor, 8" filled concrete block (with rebar) and the roof and door I have not a clue, then back fill and cover with dirt.

If there are any structural guys here a little help would be appreciated

BTW: I am thinking a 10' x 14' ID

I am looking to build a storm shelter not necessarly a bunker or fallout shelter.



I can't put a stamp on it but 10" thick good psi concrete roof with double mat of #5 rebar on 16 inch center and you can park your truck on it, many of them. Probably even 8" thick but that makes double matting more difficult. The strength comes from the thickness almost exponentially.

Any good concrete contractor that speaks Ingrish will know what to do.

As I've said SO many times, drainage and water proofing is your biggest issue and don't believe ANYTHING anyone tells you w/out running it through here.



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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 6:25:23 PM EST
OK, try this one on for size...http://www.americanconcrete.com
but you better be ready to spend some money.

OP originally said he only had 5k to spend...
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 6:27:15 PM EST

Originally Posted By Mach:
Tag, I want one and don't have a backhoe


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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 6:36:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/13/2012 6:38:23 PM EST by EXPY37]
Originally Posted By Mach:
Tag, I want one and don't have a backhoe



Unless you are digging on a hillside and/or have a long ramp down into the excavation, a typical backhoe won't do much good making the hole.

When you consider you need say, 2 feet min above the roof of the shelter, allow one foot for the roof, say 7 1/2 feet for the space below, and one foot for the slab and drainage and another foot or so for good footers, add that up and...

Let's see... You need to dig a hole about 13 feet deep.

That's gonna take abt a 20,000 pound + excavator to do it efficiently considering the roll of the bucket, reach, and other considerations in the excavation.



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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 6:38:45 PM EST
bury a school bus or 2..
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 6:49:52 PM EST

Originally Posted By EXPY37:
Originally Posted By Mach:
Tag, I want one and don't have a backhoe



Unless you are digging on a hillside and/or have a long ramp down into the excavation, a typical backhoe won't do much good making the hole.

When you consider you need say, 2 feet min above the roof of the shelter, allow one foot for the roof, say 7 1/2 feet for the space below, and one foot for the slab and drainage and another foot or so for good footers, add that up and...

Let's see... You need to dig a hole about 13 feet deep.

That's gonna take abt a 20,000 pound + excavator to do it efficiently considering the roll of the bucket, reach, and other considerations in the excavation.




Efficiently is the key word. A person could do it with a front loader alone, just have to start back far enough. Would take long enough and burn enough fuel to make renting something real big an attractive option. Also, consider the significant safety issues working at the bottom of a 13' trench. Without all the pro goodies, you'd pretty much have to dish it out like you were digging a pond, then fill it all back in. The cubic yards involved make my head hurt. Backhoes, dozers, and no nosey neighbors or zoning dept folks curious about the heavy equip they saw driving down that back road.

The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of a hillside/slope based bunker. Drainage would be significantly diminished as an issue, safety and scope of the excavation work would be greatly enhanced, allowing you to do it with smaller equipment at a lower cost in a shorter window of time.
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Link Posted: 3/13/2012 10:30:24 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/13/2012 10:31:10 PM EST by Kibby]
Originally Posted By NoStockBikes:

Originally Posted By EXPY37:
Originally Posted By Mach:
Tag, I want one and don't have a backhoe



Unless you are digging on a hillside and/or have a long ramp down into the excavation, a typical backhoe won't do much good making the hole.

When you consider you need say, 2 feet min above the roof of the shelter, allow one foot for the roof, say 7 1/2 feet for the space below, and one foot for the slab and drainage and another foot or so for good footers, add that up and...

Let's see... You need to dig a hole about 13 feet deep.

That's gonna take abt a 20,000 pound + excavator to do it efficiently considering the roll of the bucket, reach, and other considerations in the excavation.




Efficiently is the key word. A person could do it with a front loader alone, just have to start back far enough. Would take long enough and burn enough fuel to make renting something real big an attractive option. Also, consider the significant safety issues working at the bottom of a 13' trench. Without all the pro goodies, you'd pretty much have to dish it out like you were digging a pond, then fill it all back in. The cubic yards involved make my head hurt. Backhoes, dozers, and no nosey neighbors or zoning dept folks curious about the heavy equip they saw driving down that back road.

The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of a hillside/slope based bunker. Drainage would be significantly diminished as an issue, safety and scope of the excavation work would be greatly enhanced, allowing you to do it with smaller equipment at a lower cost in a shorter window of time.


This is practical thinking. I've long harboured a fantasy about building a bunker, but my land is mostly forested, and any activity with heavy equipment would certainly bring attention. Construction of a bunker of any useable size would just be a monumental feat to keep it clandestine.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 5:11:48 AM EST
Originally Posted By MedicOC:
I've looked at this several times and I keep going back to just using a large steel culvert. They are actually reasonably priced, (comparatively) and are relatively inconspicuous when being hauled. Most companies that manufacture the culvert pipes can weld a cap on both ends for you, all you would need would be to build a suitable door. And you can get them in 6 and 8 foot diameter. Partially fill the bottom with concete to provide level walking.

If you have a little bit of a hillside anywhere on the property, burying it would be a fairly easy proposition.


ETA: The benfit of using a culvert pipe is that it is designed to be buried, and able to hold and withstand heavy weights and pressures.


THIS.

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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 5:32:52 AM EST
these work well too
3/8in steel walls, waterproofed, made to bury.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 5:51:37 AM EST
There was a show on the Survival podcast about building houses for $200 and up. It mainly went our the premise of using local materials such as logs and earth to build with the main cost being a plastic membrane for the roof. He had an example of a barn built into the side of a hill. Might be worth a look.

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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 6:06:28 AM EST
Originally Posted By motoguy:

Originally Posted By MedicOC:
I've looked at this several times and I keep going back to just using a large steel culvert. They are actually reasonably priced, (comparatively) and are relatively inconspicuous when being hauled. Most companies that manufacture the culvert pipes can weld a cap on both ends for you, all you would need would be to build a suitable door. And you can get them in 6 and 8 foot diameter. Partially fill the bottom with concete to provide level walking.

I wouldn't fill the floor with concrete. Aside from the expense, why lose all that potential storage space?

http://utahsheltersystems.com/images/water1.jpg

http://utahsheltersystems.com/shelters.php


I got a quote from a local company on 10' diameter culvert and it was $166/foot. Didn't ask what the cost would be for them to seal the ends.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 6:34:32 AM EST
Originally Posted By Artillary:
Originally Posted By motoguy:

Originally Posted By MedicOC:
I've looked at this several times and I keep going back to just using a large steel culvert. They are actually reasonably priced, (comparatively) and are relatively inconspicuous when being hauled. Most companies that manufacture the culvert pipes can weld a cap on both ends for you, all you would need would be to build a suitable door. And you can get them in 6 and 8 foot diameter. Partially fill the bottom with concete to provide level walking.

I wouldn't fill the floor with concrete. Aside from the expense, why lose all that potential storage space?

http://utahsheltersystems.com/images/water1.jpg

http://utahsheltersystems.com/shelters.php


I got a quote from a local company on 10' diameter culvert and it was $166/foot. Didn't ask what the cost would be for them to seal the ends.


Would have been funny to see the looks on their faces if you would have dead-panned "Ok, I'd like two 6 inch pieces, please."

$6500 for 40' isn't too ridiculous, but is a still a significant investment. I wonder what caps would run?

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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 7:07:23 AM EST
Originally Posted By tamu94:
Shipping containers aren't spec'd for burial.

Hunt Craigslist for some 10 or 8 ft dia steel culvert pipe. Another option is to buy a big concrete septic tank (unused of course). I have seen these modified and sold as storm shelters.


This is how I would roll if I were to do something like that.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 7:21:13 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/14/2012 7:27:53 AM EST by MPi-KMS-72]
http://www.ballew.org/homeland/sheltr01.pdf

http://www.civildefensemuseum.com/southrad/falloutshelters.html

There are a lot of FEMA and other cold war era plans out there on the net if you dig around.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 7:29:54 AM EST
My cellar was excivated by hand by 2 guys in two days. The concrete was bag mixed in a mixer on site. The floor was poured and cured, then the walls and stairs. After those were done the interior was framed to hold a deck of 1x4 decking onto which a 8" reinforced concrete ceiling was poured. The wall forms were also built from 2x4. It's 12x12, and required not a single piece of equipment.

When we build a new house, a piece of 10' drain pipe will be the first thing on site.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 9:15:35 AM EST
Yeah I'm thinking about the pipe...I can manuever that with the tractor and it's cost effective and safe to bury. I'm also thinking about logs across the top ( have hundreds of GA pines) which is feasible with treated plyood under the logs and plastic for sealing. By the time the logs deteriorate it will have either hit the fan or I'll be dead. I have hillsides and digging on an angle is no problem as space really isn't a problem if I have to start back 100 feet or whatever to get down. Beats a shovel.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 2:17:09 PM EST
Here is a good diy PDF Link . Meets your requirements. The only thing I would add is to put xypex in the concrete mix for additional waterproofing.

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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 4:33:16 PM EST
Originally Posted By Artillary:
Originally Posted By motoguy:

Originally Posted By MedicOC:
I've looked at this several times and I keep going back to just using a large steel culvert. They are actually reasonably priced, (comparatively) and are relatively inconspicuous when being hauled. Most companies that manufacture the culvert pipes can weld a cap on both ends for you, all you would need would be to build a suitable door. And you can get them in 6 and 8 foot diameter. Partially fill the bottom with concete to provide level walking.

I wouldn't fill the floor with concrete. Aside from the expense, why lose all that potential storage space?

http://utahsheltersystems.com/images/water1.jpg

http://utahsheltersystems.com/shelters.php


I got a quote from a local company on 10' diameter culvert and it was $166/foot. Didn't ask what the cost would be for them to seal the ends.


Any idea what gauge or thickness of the metal. I'd be very curious to the weight of a 30 or 40' section.

I've often thought of doing this, I could easily dig a trench with our soil mover. I don't think you'd have to dig much deeper then 10' because you'd just pile the dirt back ontop of the culvert. I'd think once your down a few feet below ground you'd be pretty safe. It's getting the culvert into the trench that I'd think would require a crane, my loader tractor tops out at 4k lbs.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 4:44:29 PM EST

Originally Posted By farmer-dave:
Originally Posted By Artillary:
Originally Posted By motoguy:

Originally Posted By MedicOC:
I've looked at this several times and I keep going back to just using a large steel culvert. They are actually reasonably priced, (comparatively) and are relatively inconspicuous when being hauled. Most companies that manufacture the culvert pipes can weld a cap on both ends for you, all you would need would be to build a suitable door. And you can get them in 6 and 8 foot diameter. Partially fill the bottom with concete to provide level walking.

I wouldn't fill the floor with concrete. Aside from the expense, why lose all that potential storage space?

http://utahsheltersystems.com/images/water1.jpg

http://utahsheltersystems.com/shelters.php


I got a quote from a local company on 10' diameter culvert and it was $166/foot. Didn't ask what the cost would be for them to seal the ends.


Any idea what gauge or thickness of the metal. I'd be very curious to the weight of a 30 or 40' section.

I've often thought of doing this, I could easily dig a trench with our soil mover. I don't think you'd have to dig much deeper then 10' because you'd just pile the dirt back ontop of the culvert. I'd think once your down a few feet below ground you'd be pretty safe. It's getting the culvert into the trench that I'd think would require a crane, my loader tractor tops out at 4k lbs.

14 ga per http://www.southeastculvert.com/. I think you would have better luck dragging the pipe into place rather than lifting it.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 4:50:51 PM EST
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 6:42:42 PM EST
Originally Posted By rusteerooster:
I've been looking for info on this sort of thing for almost a year. I have come to the conclusion that, poured slab floor, 8" filled concrete block (with rebar) and the roof and door I have not a clue, then back fill and cover with dirt.

If there are any structural guys here a little help would be appreciated

BTW: I am thinking a 10' x 14' ID

I am looking to build a storm shelter not necessarly a bunker or fallout shelter.

You might look into surface bonding cement on a dry-stack block wall, rather than mortared. The wall will be stronger, easier to put up, and waterproof.

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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 7:03:11 PM EST
I'd probably bury it something like 60 to 40. 60% of the pipe buried, use the excavated dirt to cover the remaing 40%. Easier to keep waterproof and much easier to build an entrance. You have a hill that a tornado would just skip over.
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 7:39:54 PM EST
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Link Posted: 3/14/2012 8:39:34 PM EST
Originally Posted By iNuhBaDNayburhood:

Originally Posted By Cpn_Ron:
Originally Posted By rusteerooster:
I've been looking for info on this sort of thing for almost a year. I have come to the conclusion that, poured slab floor, 8" filled concrete block (with rebar) and the roof and door I have not a clue, then back fill and cover with dirt.

If there are any structural guys here a little help would be appreciated

BTW: I am thinking a 10' x 14' ID

I am looking to build a storm shelter not necessarly a bunker or fallout shelter.

You might look into surface bonding cement on a dry-stack block wall, rather than mortared. The wall will be stronger, easier to put up, and waterproof.


What kind of surface bonding cement u using? I've never seen any waterproof before... I'd just use mortar. It's thicker than a surficial concrete & then seal the exterior with a penetrating sealant & tar over that... I've designed a similar thing for my FIL so he has a shelter up at his cabin.

They pretty much all say waterproof on their data sheet, at least what I've seen, though I think they're technically "water-resistant." I know SBC is/has been used for cisterns and other water storage; I honestly don't have much direct experience, just what I've seen others do. I'd use an additional waterproofer either way, just to be sure.

I looked into SBC and dry-stack pretty extensively while planning to build our next home. I think I've settled on ICF's now, though. I would fill the blocks with concrete anyway, might as well get integral insulation while I'm at it.
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 4:55:53 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/15/2012 5:11:01 AM EST by iNuhBaDNayburhood]
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 6:07:58 AM EST
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 6:31:51 AM EST
Originally Posted By J75player:
these work well too
3/8in steel walls, waterproofed, made to bury.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/J75player/IMG_20110809_130757.jpg


And that would be a...
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 6:37:29 AM EST
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 11:28:07 AM EST
I was thinking insultated foam concrete construction with a hefty basement.
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 11:37:54 AM EST
Originally Posted By Forest:
Originally Posted By airgunner:
Originally Posted By J75player:
these work well too
3/8in steel walls, waterproofed, made to bury.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/J75player/IMG_20110809_130757.jpg


And that would be a...


Looks like some kind of gasoline or water tank.

8000 gal Gas station underground fuel tank
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 11:41:09 AM EST
It seems you could use a container if you placed forms around it and poured cement in 1 to 2 foot lifts.
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 12:25:53 PM EST
I had some large steel tanks given to me that I wanted to build an underground bunker out of. I posted on here for advise a couple of years ago. When we got them rolled over, the bottoms were rusted out pretty bad. We sold them for scrap.
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 12:58:52 PM EST

Originally Posted By JIMBEAM:
It seems you could use a container if you placed forms around it and poured cement in 1 to 2 foot lifts.

Why bother using a container, then, if its only function is to serve as the inner form?
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 1:24:06 PM EST
Originally Posted By NoStockBikes:

Originally Posted By JIMBEAM:
It seems you could use a container if you placed forms around it and poured cement in 1 to 2 foot lifts.

Why bother using a container, then, if its only function is to serve as the inner form?


Duh! "Let's buy a $2k [glorified concrete form] container, it'll be cheap and cool!!!" "Uh, you mean as opposed to $200 worth of lumber and plywood???"

The "just bury a container" types just don't get it.

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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 1:25:49 PM EST
Originally Posted By J75player:
Originally Posted By Forest:
Originally Posted By airgunner:
Originally Posted By J75player:
these work well too
3/8in steel walls, waterproofed, made to bury.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/J75player/IMG_20110809_130757.jpg


And that would be a...


Looks like some kind of gasoline or water tank.

8000 gal Gas station underground fuel tank


That would be a pretty small shelter, I've got a tank similar to that at the farm. My tank is only 3/16 thick and it weighed 8000lbs.
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 1:31:09 PM EST
Originally Posted By Forest:
You guys talking about using a steel culvert pipe.

How do you block off and seal the ends?

For those looking to use CMUs, do you fill them as you go up layer by layer?

Thanks!


You generally weld a piece of plate out at the end to serve as a cap, or to the inside of the lip. You can probably find some good pictures at the utah shelter site link posted earlier in the thread. I'd want a heavier gauge culvert then 14 gauge that was previously mentioned for 166 dollars a foot length. Probably for a 10 gauge you'd be looking at 200-250 range, just a guess on my part.
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 1:35:09 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/15/2012 1:35:36 PM EST by J75player]
Originally Posted By farmer-dave:
Originally Posted By J75player:
Originally Posted By Forest:
Originally Posted By airgunner:
Originally Posted By J75player:
these work well too
3/8in steel walls, waterproofed, made to bury.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/J75player/IMG_20110809_130757.jpg


And that would be a...


Looks like some kind of gasoline or water tank.

8000 gal Gas station underground fuel tank


That would be a pretty small shelter, I've got a tank similar to that at the farm. My tank is only 3/16 thick and it weighed 8000lbs.


its 23 feet long and 8 feet in diameter. I wouldnt call it small
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 1:45:33 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/15/2012 1:46:37 PM EST by farmer-dave]
I think ours is 10' by 18', good for a tornado shelter, but I wouldn't want to make one into a bunker. I guess I'm a little clautrophobic.
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Link Posted: 3/15/2012 1:48:53 PM EST
Originally Posted By Merlin:
Originally Posted By NoStockBikes:

Originally Posted By JIMBEAM:
It seems you could use a container if you placed forms around it and poured cement in 1 to 2 foot lifts.

Why bother using a container, then, if its only function is to serve as the inner form?


Duh! "Let's buy a $2k [glorified concrete form] container, it'll be cheap and cool!!!" "Uh, you mean as opposed to $200 worth of lumber and plywood???"

The "just bury a container" types just don't get it.



$200 worth of lumber doesn't go as far as it used to.

I could see some advantages like welding in some shelving and bunks, as opposed to piercing the concrete with anchor holes, or constructing an entire interior wall.

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