Is there a towable trailer/camper out there that is 4 season capable and durable enough to go off road? What is it? Make? Model?

Out of the box, No.

You could look at the Fleetwood Evolution E models. They are off road capable but still a tent trailer. I know of no hardside camper that is truely off road capable.

My idea of  "off roading" might not be the same as yours, so you need to define your parameters on what you want exactly. Most campers can be hauled down a reg. dirt road,but when you get into river crossings and rocks, than your looking for something capable. Id rather have something over engineered with no chance of breaking. What I want doesnt exist.

I ended up building my own trailer, it was a success but a failure at the same time. lol.

I would disagree.

Yes, there are,  but you won't like the prices.


http://www.kimberleykampers.com/

http://www.adventuretrailers.com/

Four season trailer that means I'm able to stand in the trailer. I want to be able to stand , change clothes. Etc.  a lot of theses trailers are tents on wheels.

A truck camper would work.

Outfitter

Hallmark

Edit:  opps sorry, you said towable.

Setting aside your "towable" requirement, the right slide-in camper* on a 3/4 ton or 1 ton 4WD pickup would probably qualify.


*Bigfoot is one example of a solid, well-insulated slide-in camper. Made in Canada, they're built for the cold. Although I'm not sure if it's still available,  they have offered an "ice-fishing" package that allows you to unload the camper on a frozen lake, open a floor hatch, cut a hole in the ice below, and fish in heated, beer-and-microwaved-nachos comfort. How cool is that?

Not able to stand up in it but it does have the option of heat and air conditioning, small and light enough to pull anywhere and I know for a fact they are pretty tough. Not as tough as an adventure trailer but will take a lot more abuse than you think. There is also a 10x10 tent that can be attached to the side. Replace it with heavy duty material instead of tent material and it should hold up to the elements. If you have more than 2 people it is not going to work for you though.

Here

It all depends on what your comfort level is.





These guys did Arctic Circle with canvas roof-top tent and sleeping bags/clothing, had some -30F nights.





Other expedition guys use insulated hard sided campers with diesel heaters when it gets 40F.





It also depends on what you define as 4 season, and how long you will stay in one place. In colder weather, you can get by with less infrastructure if you are stopping only at night, as you can use the daytime to thaw out water/etc as you travel. If you stay in one place for extended periods, you will want a more cold-ready environment for water/toiletry/electronics.



ETA: saw the update about standing room. You will sacrifice majority of off road maneuverability and capability for that. We then have to define what level of off-road you will be on the majority of the time.

Mrs.SouthHoof & I searched far and wide to find a Bigfoot 10.6e & finally found one in Colorado Springs Co.  It is indeed a four season weather ready rig.  It has an on board generator & I've added a couple additional compact batteries.  Bigfoot RV's are pricey but well worth the cost for the quality you get.  Two other brands to look at are Okanagan and Northern Lite, both are the best built & most costly that are available.











This is one of the best RV classifieds search tool:



http://www.rvt.com/

I have one listed in the EE.


Complete hard shell, and has expandable beds.

I disagree, those are still TENT campers and you still have to be OUTSIDE too cook. Not 4 season  IMO.



Heh..nice try. I would destroy that camper where I go 4x4ing. While that is a 4 season camper, it lacks the off road capability

Some times you just have to build your own- mine

Do you have any pics of the inside.....I have been wanting to do some thing like this for a while.

What happened to yours?  I remember reading that build thread a couple months ago.

He asked about campers or trailers.

Camping involves cooking outside.

'Trailering' doesn't.



4 Season to me means it wont freeze up and everything is usable at sub freezing temps.  

Also, a slide in camper will push your 3/4 to almost 10,000 pounds, hardly offroad capable, more like dirt road ready.

For true off road use, you are going to be sleeping under canvas.  Weight and structural rigidity of the box kill you and it takes lots of money to make it work.

Long story short., Mold got into the wood and ruined it. The build was a success along functionality but was un-usable due to mold.

These are nice, pretty much my holy grail for 'off road' RV.
But they start at 230K and can go as high as $400,000.



http://www.earthroamer.com/

That or the Quigley 4x4 Vans. That is my dream BOV.

Yup.

There is a reason all the 'overland' and 'expedition' vehicle and trailer companies are based in the west.

In the south, a jeep and a tent will get you most places.

Few more pics




This is a before pic

I'm just going to get and old Airstream 16foot Bambi..... Jack up the suspension myself.

Lil more involved than that., Most trailers are C channel frames to cut down on weight, this will also FLEX like crazy off roading, maybe to a point of twisting the frame and warping the body, etc.

Still not going very far off roading with that. although, I really like the Scamps. Id probably buy one if I could find one. The only thing about lifting one would be how ungawdly tall it would become.

Just my two cents :

EarthRoamer XV-JP
Now rough roads don't mean you have to rough it.™
EarthRoamer® combines Jeep's legendary off road capability with innovative EarthRoamer design to create an Xpedition Vehicle (XV) with unprecedented capability. Now you can go anywhere a Jeep will go and have all of the comforts of home when you get there including: an inside toilet and shower, queen size bed and a refrigerator freezer....
http://www.earthroamer.com/tab_xpedition_vehicles/xvjp1_overview.html


My personal vehicle: Not really meant for heavy duty , 4x4 offroad use,..  but very portable: 560 Ultra Raindrop
http://www.tinycamper.com/

GRAND CANYON


LAKE POWELL




LAKE CASITAS


FINE DINING




SHOOTING RANGE




Another Link:
Teardrops & Tiny Travel Trailers
Offroad Construction Secrets
http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=39

PAPI

Another link for Teardrops: Teardrops.net

These are cool.  Taylor Coach company.

http://www.taylorcoach.com/gallery.php

Lots of possibilities,, just takes $$$$$$$$$$ !

http://www.expeditionportal.com/

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/index.php

Unimog Camper Conversions:
http://www.insideline.com/mercedes-benz/303745-mercedes-benz-unimog-u-4000-expedition-camper-debuts.html

PAPI

The most Bad Ass Trailer out there.

- Watch the whole thing, it just keeps getting better and better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpauUSmtJmA

How's the heater in that tear drop? Is it a tight fit in there!!?

The Stealth trailer is a tandem 14' with most of the amenities we want to be comfortable and self sufficient, I can stand up at ~6' and not bump my head, has two elegently engineered fold down bunks each with expedient matresses we had whipped up in 2003 about 4 inches thick that that are more comfy than the bed I have to sleep in tonight and still in good shape.

The bedding [mattresses and sleeping bags] gets secured with those friction motorcycle straps to al angle with holes that runs 4 places along the top length of the ceiling and retains the insulation and net storage various places. Some of those net things screwed to the underside of the bunks for small storage.

We might have stayed in it close to a year's worth I'm guessing. We use sleeping bags on top of the mattresses.

2 gennys, toilet, salad bowl sink, sat internet, microwave, smale coleman propane single burner stove recessed in the small plywood counter top, cellular internet, computer desk, a zillion antennas and solar on top with A-C, etc. Everything installed and refined.

Got abt damn, 70,000 miles since 2003, when we started building it.

Now it's gone on some rough mtn roads and that had washes but it wouldn't go anywhere off road, but how far are you gonna get going off road anyway in most parts of the US with any significant amt of gear?

Abt a week ago we took a ~couple thousand mile trip in it boondocking and it was down in the 10 to 25F at night. The small catalytic 4000 BTU furnace ran almost continually some nights. We slept during the day sometimes if it was too cold at night.

I looked at the propane tank tonight and dumped the black water tank [only abt 7 or 8 gallons but has a maserator pump so it's easy and you can fertilize your garden with a garden hose if you wanted] and the propane tank was still abt 1/4 full. When we take off again I'll run it for maybe 2 nights and then exchange it. Furnace sips fuel and I asked the guy that filled the tank to put as much in as he could, 'course the saftey valve shuts the fill anyhow.

Had trouble with the brakes that I changed out [put new brake asm's, backing plates, etc, all the way around], they were imported, before we left and one left rear wheel kept dragging so I had to work on it several times on the way and replace one tire that got a slight flat spot and was annoying at 58 MPH.

Got the tools in a medium/large toolbox to handle most any wheel, brake, bearing issues. Almost took pix of the tool complement tonight but the repairs took too long.

Tonight I installed 2 left side USA made brake assemblies that are abt 20 bucks more [$79] and if anyone needs to change them I think it's worth the extra money. We'll see how these do -fingers crossed.

IMO [maybe because I did one] I think converting a cargo trailer is a good way to go for a lot of missions. I think you can get one with an aluminium frame to keep weight down but from what I see I think they would wind up cracking the frame as much as we use one.

Personal property taxes are nothing much and if something breaks you don't have to go to a dealer and let them screw it up more.

The thing to do if converting one is don't go clunky with 2x4's, heavy wood crap, etc outfitting it. Use aluminium and thin plywood with al channel on the floor to set it in and other tricks to make your conversion a nicely engineered unit. Makes the job a lot easier and faster too. Sort of make it like you would engineer a BO airplane. All you need are hand tools, drill press, and a big 12" sliding mitre saw to do a conversion.



It's great to pull off the road and just walk in to take a leak or number 2 or rest for a couple minutes. We didn't used to but now for long trips we just leave the bunks down all the time, but I'm too lazy to stow the bedding so that's my SO's job.

Hi-Lo trailer:

Not to hijack the thread but do you have a little more info on what you did there. like what did you start with, what was the overall cost, hows it been working for you. things like that.

How's the heater in that tear drop? Is it a tight fit in there!!? 

HEATER ?  : Well , not really needed , unless in extremely cold conditions !!



You can add as many " Down Comforters " as needed ( 3 ) , or Sleeping Bags ?


Or , buy the optional propane heater, which was too expensive in my opinion.. I was more interested in " Air Conditioner " for most of my Camping needs


I opted for a " Wally Mart Special "  ($ 30.00 ?) for the occasional needs ;
The Grand Canyon trip, was a record setting cold snap that night ...Many bigger Rigs left due to the extremely cold conditions.


But, this does require a " Power Source "... hook-up or emergency generator


Fit  : 560 Raindrop ;  It's roomier inside than it seems ( 2 Adults ) queen size bed/sleeping area.



The side tent option , is really a requirement in my opinion .. Porta-potty / Standing Dressing room, etc.

PAPI
http://www.campinnforum.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

I don't believe you can get these in the US, but it is pretty sweet.
http://www.conqueroraustralia.com.au/

Here is a link to a bunch of different Offroad Campers
http://www.campertrailers.org/manufacturers.htm

Yep -  The propane furnace option is WAY too expensive, and a great way of running down your 12 volt battery quick, too.

A 3000 BTU Olympian catalytic heater would be my choice - Uses no battery power, is completely silent in operation, produces plenty of heat, runs a LONG time on a 20 pound tank of propane, and only costs around 170 bucks (delivered).

Stealth trailor?

Pics
Pics?????????

Expy has some threads on various parts of his trailer, in the archives these days.  I know I go search out the plumbing and electrical stuff every now and then since he explains what he did very well.



When considering anything for 4 seasons you need to consider how much fuel will be needed the heat the sucker.  The house I am in is well insulated and does not use that much propane.  Some trailers can chew through a propane tank in a weekend trying to keep the thing warm and to me that is a lot of propane to go through, talking the regular 20lb tanks here.



The mention of airstream puts a smile on my face.  I really like the idea of an airstream but there are forums for the airstreams and a lot of reading is recomended.  More than a few folks have redone an airstream and there is a lot of talk about trying to use them in the winter where it gets decently cold.  Some folks have dropped them onto a homebuilt frame as well because the stock frames of older ones are sometimes rusted out or damaged or not going to do what the person wants.



And when playing at expedition portal you will see more than one setup that is a flatbed type truck of some sort with something like the scamp mounted onto the bed of the truck.  This lets the truck's suspension do the work and as long as you mount it reasonably the body won't get all twisted up while the truck is offroading and the body of the trailers will live longer if you skip twisting them up a lot.



Over at pirate 4x4 you can find a lot of threads in the tow vehicle section where people take slide in campers or tow behind campers and mount them on their trailer and leave room for their off road vehicle to also fit on that trailer.  With the slide in there is no suspension to remove but with the tow behind campers people do usually go ahead and remove the wheels, axles, and suspension and attach the camper to the trailer permanently.



There are a few decent 4 season campers out there but you want to do a lot of reading and see what it takes to make sure the pipes and black and grey water tanks won't freeze up on you.



There are some so called 4 season campers out there that need a whole lot of fuel to keep temps acceptable and to keep things from freezing up on you.



A lot of folks do build things themselves.  Some searches will turn up discussions on here and you can search the net to find all sorts of builds all across the country.



There are aftermarket suspension mods you can do to most 2 axle trailers and campers that do away with the cruddy stock suspension that is so common and the aftermarket conversion lets each axle move more independantly, it is a common mod over on rvnet and just a few hundred bucks for parts.  Some people have the change made to brand new campers because it helps the ride and towing so much.



You never covered specific needs so there may or may not be something that will fit your needs already listed.



When it comes to seriously insulating something I think a lot of folks would take a stock camper apart and reinsulate it or they are going to spend the money for something like the bigfoot shown above.



Depending on what you need it may be easier to just build something.



Playing on youtube will turn up folks pulling a lot of stuff off road.  Some are amazing, the landcruiser in austraila may have already been posted but it is a nice looking trailer and a heck of a setup.  Some are people just dragging things to pieces.



Anyway, some searches will turn up what folks have done and listing some serious specifics would help.



One thing you may or may not find out for yourself is that a 4x4 vehicle towing at its max limit is going to have problems with just plain old washed out and torn up gravel/dirt farm roads and forest service roads.  Kind of depends on the vehicle and engine combo.  A diesel 4x4 at its max limit will have power but might have weak points in its drivetrain.



Some of the smaller gassers will not be happy working hard at their max weights.  



Then again I figure some of the trailers can be dragged through stuff that might rip the bottom off the trailer as well.

It is a S-250 shelter that the Army used for electrical equipment. Ir is designed to fit in the back of a Hummer or truck. I got it at Ft. Bragg for $500. I picked the trailer up off Craigslist for $350, beefed up the springs under it, add the battery box on the front. The a/c is from Walmart The shelter is about 5"6 tall, so I have to bend over standing in it. But it is 6.5' long, so I sleep fine. It works great for me, the wife and a dog. I have a solar panel that keeps the batteries topped off. I have about $1500 and about 30 hrs work in on it.

http://cheapgreenrvliving.com/Converted_Cargo_Trailer.html



Make it hot!!!

Can you post a link to the stealth thread or pics....

DOG556, you can ask but he may not answer.  EXPY has held a tight cloak of secrecy on the stealth trailer for as long as I can remember.  
I even think that if I were to stumble upon him in real life and I had my SF stuff with so that he could easily identify me....this is what I think he would do:  He would video me form the security of his trailer.  Then upload the video and post here...telling all how poor I am at observing my surroundings...and finishing his post with

 
 

Right

Actually, my SO has as much to say as I do IMHO re posting pix and I'm not going to violate that trust.

If you want to know how to do something to do your own conv, just ask. OTOH, I'm not posting pix to entertain.

It is pretty easy to make a tent camper 4 season if you are willing to rough it a little. If you want motel style accommodations as it seems from some of your comments, it is a lot tougher and more expensive. I have known a fair number of people that have successfully and relatively inexpensively modified tent campers for cold weather use.

Off roading as others have mentioned is tougher. A lot depends on what you really mean by "off road". I think the towable motel room type trailer you envision is not going to go very far "off road" by my standards of "off road".

I've been looking at the stealth trailers. ALOT of options too
Do you guys reccomend the dual or single axels?
Should I go with the heavy duty suspension or try to beef it up my self ? Here are the listed TONs of avail options and pkgs.

I think the contractors pkg is my best starting bet.

Landscape Package
12" O.C. Floor Crossmembers
 2 - Aluminum Directional Air Vents  ( 1 on RS, Front, High - 1 CS, Rear Low )
 2 - 14" x 14" Roof Vents  ( Evenly Spaced )
 4000#  Spring Assisted Rear Ramp Door
 3/4" x 12" Kick Plate on 3 walls
 2 - 9" H.O. Dome Lights
 60" Triple Tube Tongue  ( 18" additional length )
 2 - Grab Handles on Rear Door
 3/4" Engineered Flooring or Treated Plywood
 2 - 3 way 12 Volt Switches
 8 - Rope Ties... 4 Each Wall half way up, evenly spaced


Deluxe Landscapers Package
Everything from the "Landscape Package" PLUS :

22.5 Degree Up Torsion Axle
6 Hole Adjustable Coupler
Screwless Exterior
36" Side Door ILO 48"
2nd Set of LED Tail Lights  ( 6" above standard set )
12" Wide ATP Floor Edge  ( at rear of trailer )



Contractor's Package

16" O.C. Floor Crossmembers
2 - 3 Way Switches
3 - Aluminum Ladder Racks  (more are available )
3/4" DriMax / RainBlock Walls
2 - 14" x 14" Roof Vents  (evenly spaced )
2 - 9" H.O. Dome Lights
60" Triple Tube Tongue


Electrical Packages

110 Volt Power Package                                                                 
110V Wiring
30 AMP Breaker Box
25' Shore Line Power Cord
2 - 110V Wall Receptacles- You specify location
2 - 110V 4' Twin Fluorescent Lights with cover- You specify location
110V Wall Switch
110 Volt Deluxe Power Package
110V Wiring
50 AMP Breaker Box
25' Shore Line Power Cord
4 - 110V Wall Receptacles- You specify location
4 - 110V 4' Twin Fluorescent Lights with Cover- You specify location
2 - 3 Way 110V Wall Switches

Ramp and Door Packages

5' wide & 6' wide Ramp Door Package
2,500# Spring Assisted Ramp Door
Rear Fold Down Stabilizer Jacks  
Roof Vent  or Plastic Sidewall Vents
7' wide Ramp Door Package
2,500# Spring Assisted Ramp Door
Fold Down Stabilizer Jacks
Roof Vent or Plastic Sidewall Vents
8 & 8.5ft Car Hauler Package A
4000# Spring Assisted Ramp Door
48" Rear Beavertail
4 - 5000# Recessed D-Rings
Roof Vent or Plastic Sidewall Vents

Stealth Packages

Single Axle Motorcycle Package
Spring Assist Ramp Door
1 - Removable Wheel Chock
4 - Recessed D-Rings
NOTE: single bike set up Installed

Tandem Axle Motorcycle Package
Spring Assisted Ramp Door
2 - Removable Wheel Chocks
8 - recessed D-Rings
NOTE: 2 - bike set up Installed

Intruder Car Hauler Interior Package
Ceiling Liner  ( White Vinyl or 5.2 mm Raw Luan
Colored Interior Coves  (specify color )
Vinyl Floor Covering  ( Gray Marble or Black & White Checkered - Specify
ATP Ramp Door with Aluminum Flap



Other Options

Floor

7.5 Wide upgrade 
Deck Over - No Wheel Wells
Drop Floor
Beavertail
2" Steel Bumper w/ Expanded Metal Top
Space Axles to Lower Wheel Wells
Narrow Axles on 7' Wides - 4" interior Wheel Well
Tube Cross Members
A-Frame
48" Extended A-Frame w/ Triple-Tube
54" Extended A-Frame w/ Triple-Tube
60" Extended A-Frame w/ Triple-Tube
Triple-Tube A-Frame
Removable A-Frame
Weight Distribution Plates
Height
  6"  Extra Height
12"  Extra Height
18"  Extra Height
24"  Extra Height  
30"  Extra Height
36"  Extra Height
42"  Extra Height
Wedgefronts / Bull Nose
      
           Trailer size          Wedge size
5' & 6'  Wide        24"  Wedge
7' Wide                 30"  Wedge
8.5' Wide              36"  Wedge
8.5' Wide              60"  Wedge
Slant Wedge
Bull Nose  (Flat front, Flat top)

Couplers

2" Heavy Duty 8000#
2" Bulldog Hammerblow 7000#
2-5/16" 10000# upgrade from standard 2"
2-5/16" Adjustable 12500# upgrade with 7000# Square Tube Jack
2-5/16" Bulldog Hammerblow 12500# upgrade from std. 2-5/16" with 7000# Square Tube Jack
2 5/16" Adjustable 25000#"Atwood" Coupler from std. 2-5/16" with 7000# Square Tube Jack
2-5/16" Pintle Eye, Adjustable, upgrade from std. 2-5/16" with 7000# Square Tube Jack
3" H.D. Pintle eye 20000# Coupler upgrade from std. 2-5/16" with 7000# Square Tube Jack
Fifth Wheel Coupler In Lieu Of std. Gooseneck Coupler                                 NOTE: No Safety Chains

Jacks & Stabilizers Winches
5000# Bulldog Swing Up Jack w/ Pad
7000# Bulldog Swing Up Jack w/ Pad
1500# Fulton/Bolton Swing Up Jack w/ Caster Wheel
5000# Drop Leg
7000# Drop Leg
12,000# Drop Leg
3500# Electric A-Frame w/ Battery & Box
Fold Down Rear Stabilizer Jacks
Corner Post Drop Down Jacks w/ Sand Pad
Scissors Jack w/ Crank
Skid Rollers Welded under rear
Hydraulic Landing Gear w/ Battery & Box
Center Hydraulic Landing Gear Assist w/ Battery & Box
Skid Bar  (pair)
Caster Wheel  (shipped loose)
Dual  (2 Speed) Landing Gear Upgrade for Gooseneck / Fifthwheel
Winches
Winch Plate  (specify location)
3500# Winch w/ Remote, Battery & Box
4000# Winch w/ Remote, Battery & Box
6000# Winch w/ Remote, Battery & Box
9000# Winch w/ Remote, Battery & Box
Generators - Gas & LP
Cummins/ONAN 5500  120V w/ Remote, Hour Meter - GAS
Cummins/ONAN 5500  120V-240V w/ Remote, Hour Meter - GAS
Cummins/ONAN 5500  120V-240V w/ Remote, Hour Meter - LP
Cummins/ONAN 6500  120V-240V w/ Remote, Hour Meter - LP
Cummins/ONAN 7000  120V-240V w/ Remote, Hour Meter - GAS
Generators - Diesel
Cummins/ONAN 5000  120V-240V w/ Remote, Hour Meter
Cummins/ONAN 6000  120V w/ Remote, Hour Meter
Cummins/ONAN 7500  120V w/ Remote, Hour Meter
Cummins/ONAN 8000  120V w/ Remote, Hour Meter
Generator Door - Without Box
36"W x 30"H
30"W x 30"H
36"W x 36"H
Insulate Generator Compartment  (24" Deep)
Fuel Tank Kits
18 or 30 Gallon Kit
Hand Pump Assembly
Install & Insulate 12"W x 24"D Fuel Tank Compartment
Axles & Brakes

3500# Spring or Torsion Axles w/ Brakes & Breakaway Kit
5200# Spring or Torsion Axles w/ Brakes & Breakaway Kit
6000# Spring or Torsion Axles w/ Brakes & Breakaway Kit
7000# Spring or Torsion Axles w/ Brakes & Breakaway Kit
8000# Spring or Torsion Axles w/ Brakes & Breakaway Kit
Make any size Trailer to a Tri Axle which will have Torsion Axles !
Convert any sized Tandem Axle Trailer to Surge Brakes !
Tires
3500# Axle has ST205-75R-15"  LRC  Bias or Radial
5200# Axle has ST225-75R-15"  LRD  Bias or Radial
6000# Axle has ST235-80R-16"  LRE  Radial
7000# Axle has LT235-85R-16"  LRE or LRG Radial
8000# Axle has LT215-75R-17.5  LRH
Rims
Steel Powder Coated is Standard
5 Star Aluminum  (Stealth)
7 Star Aluminum  (Pete's)
Exterior Aluminum & ATP  (Aluminum Tread Plate)
.030 Thickness is Standard
.040 & .050 Thickness Upgrade available
Two Tone color option w/ 4" Bright Anodized Divider Strip
Cast Aluminum Front Corner Bull Nose Trim Package
12" or 24" ATP along sides w/ bottom trim
ATP on Tongue
ATP on Top of Rear Ramp Door
6" - 12" - 24" Bright Anodized Aluminum along bottom
Bright Anodized Aluminum Front Corners
Exterior Stainless Steel
Front Corners or Nose
Rear Hoop around Door
6" - 12" - 24" Along Sides w/ Bottom Trim
Doors, Door Add-Ons, Windows, Vents
28", 32", 36", 48" Widths
Econo RV Door
Deluxe RV Door w/ Window & Screen Door (View)
Side Entrance Doors
24", 28", 32", 36", 48" Widths, up to 84" Tall
Side Double Doors
60", 72", 84", 96" Widths
Side Ramp Door w/ Flap, Spring Assist - 60"


Ramp Doors w/ Flap
                                                                                                                    
                         Interior          Door                     Door                             Inches Between
Width              Height          Height                  Width                            Support Cables          # Rating

5' Wide           60"                                                49 1/2"                            46"                                2500#
6' Wide           72"                                                61 1/2"                            58"                                2500#
7' Wide           72"                                                74"                                   70 1/2"                         2500#
8.5' Wide        78"                                                89 1/2"                            86 1/2"                         4000#


Diamond Roll-Up Doors... 1" Thickness, White only
5 Wide -    50"W x 68 1/2"H
6 Wide -    62"W x 80 1/2"H
7 Wide -    74"W x 80 1/2"H
8 Wide -    86"W x 86 1/2"H
8.5 Wide - 90"W x 86 1/2"H
NOTE : ROLL UP DOORS REQUIRE 6" EXTRA HEIGHT TO TRAILER !

Door Add-Ons
Additional Ramp Door Hinge
Additional Hinge on Bar Lock Door
Double Cam Lock Rear Doors
RV Flush Mount Lock W/ Bar Lock, Side Door
RV Flush Mount Lock IPO Bar Lock, Side Door
Cargo Vise Key-Lock Hasp
Pull Out Side Door Step - RV Style  (single step )
Second Grab Handle on Ramp Door
4" or 10" Aluminum Side Door Holbacks
Generator Slideouts - 350# / 780# Capacity  (loose )
Steel or Aluminum Transition Flaps  ( ramp to floor )
36" Ramp Flap w/5" Bumpers  (ramp to ground )
60" ATP Ramp Flap w/5" Bumpers  (ramp to ground )
Heavy Duty Reinforced Door Upgrade - (adds approx. 1000#)
8 x 8.5" Cable Hatch  ( in floor pass thru hatch )
10" x 10" Fuel Door
12" x 36" Baggage Door
30" x 30" Baggage Door
34"W x 26"H Access Door in Gooseneck Gravel Guard
Corrosion Free Hardware
54" Escape Door Package
54" Roadside Escape Door
22 Degree Turndown on Axle
2" Tube welded Under Frame  (raises trailer 4"...  10" Door Height )
8" High Wheel Boxes  (interior )
Vending Doors w/ Gas Struts  (door only )
3' x 4'
4' x 7'
4' x 8'
Concession Windows
Window w/ Screened Slider Window, Vending Door Gas Struts
Slide Window has Multiple Configurations
Marquis Style  ***  Corner Pies
4' x 6'
4' x 8'
Slider Windows w/ Screen
15"W x 30"H  -  vertical slide
30"W x 15"H  -  horizontal slide
30"W x 30"W  -  horizontal slide
30"W x 22"H  Escape Window slide
48"W x 30"H  -  horizontal slide
22" x 22" Skylight  ( non-opening )
Vents
14" x 14" Roof Vent
Max Air Vent Cover
Plastic Flo-Thru Vents - side wall
9.5" H x 4"W Directional Air Vents - side wall
26" x 26" Escape Hatch & Screened Vent
12 Volt Roof Vent
110 Volt Roof Vent
110 Volt Roof Vent w/ built in Thermostat  (specify if for Concession Trailer use )
Specialty Options
Ramp Over Wheel Wells for 8.5' Wides
Heavy Duty Ladder Racks
Exterior Ladder for Roof Access
ATP under Ladder
Observation Decks
Gemini Car Lift Systems  -  12', 14' 16'
Floors
10 mil. Vinyl Flooring  -  Black / White Checkered  or  Gray Marbled
Rubber Lon Coined 
Double 3/4" Floor - "Dri-Max"
3/4" Pressure Treated Plywood
Galvanized Steel Liner
Painted 1/8" Steel Diamond Plate Decking
Commercial Grade Carpeting
Poly-Coated
ATP Black Rubber Flooring
Aluminum Extruded Flooring
Walls
3/4" Plywood
3/4" x 12" Kick Plate
Partition Wall
Partition Wall w/ Interior Door
Partition Wall w/ Pocket Door
Ceilings
5.2 mm Raw Luan Ceiling
Roofs
Walk-On-Roof must include the following:
12" O.C. Roof Bows
1/2" Plywood Roof - Flat Top ONLY
Grip-Strut Walk Plank - 8' Section  or  12' Section
Observation Deck  -  Built as follows:
16" O.C. Roof Bows
1/2" Plywood Decking as Platform
Heavy Duty Ladder fastened on front wall over A-frame Tongue
Round Tube Aluminum Railing - 12" High across front and down both sides
Additional Rail Height is Available...  Ask for Quote...
White Interiors
3/16" White Vinyl Side Wall Upgrade
3/16" White Vinyl installed over standard 3/8" Plywood
3/16" White Vinyl on Ceiling w/ White Cove Molding @ 45 degree angle
Interior White ALUMINUM laminated on 5.2 mm luan for ceiling or walls
Interior ATP

ATP Floor installed over standard flooring
ATP Installed on Rear Ramp & Flap
ATP Step Well
ATP Steps to Gooseneck
ATP Wheel Wells
12" ATP Kick Plate
12",  16",  24"  ATP Runners
Insulation     R-6 Rated Bubble Foil

Floor Package w/ Galvalume Bottom Liner
Side Walls
Ceiling  (requires ceiling liner - separate charge)











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What's your mission?

If you're a contractor I can see all the extras and the extra weight. If you are going to try to survive in your trailer it might be a better idea to allot the useful load to things you need to live in it and keep those as minimal as you can.

Let's face it, where are you going 'offroad' to with a trailer and a BOV unless the rig is so small as to be very limited in respect to what you can carry, you won't get far. Terrain in most parts of the US isn't conducive at all to moving cross country with a 3000 or 4000 pound trailer except mostly in the plains and some deserts. Even in those places you'll come across washes and natural features that will be impossible or difficult to navigate. In the mountains forget it. Even jeeps need trails, lots of places an ATV won't go through unless you're planning on spending a day to go a mile.

A SMALL motorcycle with good low gears and 150cc engine would be the vehicle of choice to navigate through rugged forests or desert, not the rambo 650 cc Kawasuckes that folks are going to blast off on to their BO and run into a tree of something the first day. But try to say this w/out getting hammered. A bike that small won't carry much.

Back to the trailer, I prefer torsion axles, yes I know the rambos don't like them but they are simple, last forever, they get the cross member 'axle' higher with more clearance if you order the right ones.

The next issue is weight. You see the link that was posted where the guy put shelves and bunks in his trailer like some folks would put in their basement with relatively heavy lumber. Bad idea IMO.

D ring tie downs are handy, put them in last after you have outfitted your trailer. Run E-track down the sides as appropriate to your mission and attach your bunks to that pivoting on the E-track connectors and with foldout aluminum legs of 2 1/2" channel attached to a plywood bed reinforced with a couple al stringers.  Make your kitchen compact in the front with vertical runs of shelving support with well thought out shelf spacing to support a main counter with a salad bowl sink, a shelf underneath, grey water [6 gallon W-M water can] for the sink to empty to, your electrical there and additional storage, above the sink ~30" another 1/2 wide shelf-support for a microwave, and a shelf to the right of that for more storage, commo devices, etc.

If you are going to have a potty [required in my situation] then allot an area abt 50 x 32 inches to the port side of the kitchen counter with 3/8" plywood privacy/utility walls set into appropriate 1/2 al channel screwed to the floor and at the top attached to al angle that's attached to the framing structure. The framing structure of your trailer is an important consideration in what you buy because most everything will be attached to it, I use 12-24 screws and drill and tap the trailer ribs to accept the screws. This has worked well for ~70k miles.

Put an RV toilet into the B-R and a small holding tank underneath allowing for ground clearance. Add a mascerator pump with a gate valve and a length of 1" reinforced tubing to a ball valve on the port side of the trailer to facilitate dumping. Slope the holding tank [a lot] so you don't have to jack the port side of the trailer up a bit to get everything out like I do.

If you plan it right you'll wind up with a space of about 10" or so between the pottty room and the beginning of the sink/counter for a small upright vacuum cleaner.

Of course, it goes without saying you're going to strip your trailer when you bring it home and install insulation throughout and a membrane under the floor to protect it. It's sort of nice to have a ramp in the back you can lower and set on 5 gallon buckets at each corner to make a deck when camping or a convenent entrance/staging area when working on your trailer.

Having the bathroom area framed with plywood creates a lot of opportunites for functional use of the walls. Of course the walls are stiffened and plumbed vertically with aluminum angle attached with 10/24 bolts and nuts.

On the walls you can mount: first aid kit, extinguishers, thermostat, smoke, CO and propane detectors, bathroom mirror-chest thing over the toilet, net bags, propane heater, in the rear of the enclosure you can locate and secure two 12" wide plastic multi-drawer cabinets side by side and put a plywood shelf on top of them with vertical shelving and more shelves [wire type shelves] for securing entertainment, electronic, whatever.

One of the kind of plastic 12" storage cabinets [W-M]  with about 5 drawers like were used on the rear of the B-R enclosure can be put in the front of the B-R area on the starboard side, facing to port. Now you have space to store toileteries, TP, whatever, you'll fill them up.