DIY Generator Power Cables & Install - Page 2

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - DIY Generator Power Cables & Install (Page 2 of 5)

Posted: 3/16/2011 5:37:57 PM EDT

[#1]

Quoted:
Understood about the 2 small Hondas not being able to supply 240V. That was never my intention. They are, as ar-jedi said, for light power, single phase loads only. I'd leave the 240V load (Electric Water Heater @ 240V, 4500W ) for a larger 7KW / 9KW generator. Also understood about the special jumper only to be used with the small generator(s) and 120V... L5-30P to L14-30C I believe.

B-D,
with a little planning when you wire the transfer switch you may not need to jumper the split phases. in the transfer switch you'll note that every other breaker is on a given phase (L1 or L2). if you align your most commonly used 120Vac loads with one phase, you can just power that phase straight up with an EU2000i (no phase to phase jumper) and all will be well. for the most versatility, yes you would need to join L1 and L2 (BUT PLEASE ONLY DO THIS ON THE CORDSET) but if you can map the "light" loads into a given set of breakers you can avoid the L1 to L2 connection.

i took the approach i described above, and honestly i have not had a multi-day outage to praise nor curse at my (somewhat arbitrary) decision to limit the number of circuits powered when the 120Vac generator is connected –– but it is what it is. worse comes to worse i can ad-hoc jumper L1 and L2 at the cable. i should test this on a nice sunny day rather than trying to do it in the dark at 3am in the middle of the winter...

ar-jedi

Posted: 3/16/2011 6:35:03 PM EDT

[#2]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Understood about the 2 small Hondas not being able to supply 240V. That was never my intention. They are, as ar-jedi said, for light power, single phase loads only. I'd leave the 240V load (Electric Water Heater @ 240V, 4500W ) for a larger 7KW / 9KW generator. Also understood about the special jumper only to be used with the small generator(s) and 120V... L5-30P to L14-30C I believe.

B-D,
with a little planning when you wire the transfer switch you may not need to jumper the split phases. in the transfer switch you'll note that every other breaker is on a given phase (L1 or L2). if you align your most commonly used 120Vac loads with one phase, you can just power that phase straight up with an EU2000i (no phase to phase jumper) and all will be well. for the most versatility, yes you would need to join L1 and L2 (BUT PLEASE ONLY DO THIS ON THE CORDSET) but if you can map the "light" loads into a given set of breakers you can avoid the L1 to L2 connection.

i took the approach i described above, and honestly i have not had a multi-day outage to praise nor curse at my (somewhat arbitrary) decision to limit the number of circuits powered when the 120Vac generator is connected –– but it is what it is. worse comes to worse i can ad-hoc jumper L1 and L2 at the cable. i should test this on a nice sunny day rather than trying to do it in the dark at 3am in the middle of the winter...

ar-jedi

This is exactly what I hoped to do, ar-jedi. Thanks for laying it out like that.

The Big Brown Truck made quite a delivery this afternoon...

Posted: 3/19/2011 10:00:32 AM EDT

[#3]

FedEx made more deliveries today...

Posted: 3/19/2011 10:19:49 AM EDT

[#4]

I'm so jealous

Posted: 3/19/2011 10:26:15 AM EDT

[#5]

Quoted:
I'm so jealous

Thanks, Tradesman. Your help with the wiring technical aspects is very much appreciated.

I found several other posts regarding the special cordset we were discussing earlier.

Connecting 2 generators to a transfer switch
240 Twist Lock to Two 120v 20 Amp Plugs
Wiring a honda eu2000i generator to a 4-pin transfer switch
L14-30r receptacle wiring for 120 volt system

Posted: 3/19/2011 11:32:15 AM EDT

[#6]

Since you already have the Companion with the L5-30 receptacle, you would only need to link the two generators with the inexpensive parallel cable, and then make up a cord with a L5-30P on one end and L14-30C on the other like you said previously. Whether you short out the two hot prongs in the L14-30C is up to you, you will need to if you want to power both legs in the transfer switch.

I was about to order a Honda 2000i last year, I called up Mayberry's which is located in my state. unfortunately they wouldn't give me the discount if I picked it up from their location, they said that they HAD to ship it because the sale items come from a different warehouse or something. I wanted it that weekend so I wasn't very happy and never ended up ordering it. But I think I will order it, it's too enticing not to

It's something I could definitely use at work instead of the loud as hell noisemakers I currently use. I wonder how the EU2000i works with a Milwaukee Super Hawg

Posted: 3/19/2011 12:01:14 PM EDT

[#7]

Quoted:
Since you already have the Companion with the L5-30 receptacle, you would only need to link the two generators with the inexpensive parallel cable, and then make up a cord with a L5-30P on one end and L14-30C on the other like you said previously. Whether you short out the two hot prongs in the L14-30C is up to you, you will need to if you want to power both legs in the transfer switch.

I got the parallel cables with the RV adapter just because Wise Sales had a package deal that included it. I don't have an RV, though.

Quoted:
I was about to order a Honda 2000i last year, I called up Mayberry's which is located in my state. unfortunately they wouldn't give me the discount if I picked it up from their location, they said that they HAD to ship it because the sale items come from a different warehouse or something. I wanted it that weekend so I wasn't very happy and never ended up ordering it. But I think I will order it, it's too enticing not to

It's something I could definitely use at work instead of the loud as hell noisemakers I currently use. I wonder how the EU2000i works with a Milwaukee Super Hawg

My EU2000i purchase has been coming for about two years. I lurk around these forums and see nice setups that I'd love to have, and put them into a folder on my desktop. He won't admit it, but ar-jedi has cost me a $hit-Ton of $$$$, primarily by posting very nice pics of his gear. He taunts me... I'm a grown-a$$ man, but I like my toys.

Posted: 3/19/2011 12:12:58 PM EDT

[#8]

Then you're set, they even included a cord end for you.

I hear ya about the toys. I've actually been on a kick lately trying to minimalize all the stuff that I have, from tools to firearms. After years of buying sprees I realize that I spent way to much on stuff that I will never really use.

Posted: 3/19/2011 1:35:42 PM EDT

[#9]

Quoted:
He won't admit it, but ar-jedi has cost me a $hit-Ton of $$$$, primarily by posting very nice pics of his gear. He taunts me... I'm a grown-a$$ man, but I like my toys.

i see you have reached "Acceptance". congratulations!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kubler-Ross_model

Denial—"I feel fine."; "This can't be happening, not to me."
Anger—"Why me? It's not fair!"; "How can this happen to me?"; "Who is to blame?"
Bargaining— "I'll do anything for a few more years."; "I will give my life savings if..."
Depression—"I'm so sad, why bother with anything?"; "I'm going to die... What's the point?"
Acceptance—"It's going to be okay."; "I can't fight it, I may as well prepare for it."

ar-jedi

ps:
get an hour meter. well, in your case, get two!

pps
it's not mounted upside down. take a look at where ALL of the controls are on your EU2000i and you will understand...

Posted: 3/20/2011 5:48:23 AM EDT

[#10]

I prefer to think of myself as being somewhere between the "Appropriation" and "Obsession" stages...

Ferengi Rules of Acquisition

Stages of Acquisition

In addition to the Rules, Ferengi recognize five Stages of Acquisition:

Infatuation: An unreasoning love or attraction … "I want it."
Justification: Moral excuse used to explain … "I must have it!"
Appropriation: To take to one's self in exclusion of others … "IT'S MINE AT LAST!"
Obsession: A compulsive or irrational preoccupation … "Precious!"
Resale: The action of selling something previously bought … "Make me an offer."

I ordered (2) of the hour meters...

Posted: 3/20/2011 5:57:00 AM EDT

[#11]

is it wrong that I'm slightly aroused by the pics in this thread......I though for a second I clicked on BOTD....

That's some nice hardware Bigdaddy.....Echo like....

Posted: 3/20/2011 6:22:18 AM EDT

[#12]

Quoted:
is it wrong that I'm slightly aroused by the pics in this thread......I though for a second I clicked on BOTD....

That's some nice hardware Bigdaddy.....Echo like....

Thanks, Echo. Ya gotta watch the pics on these forums...they'll suck the money right out of your wallet!

For example... From this thread It's, Uh...It's Green!

Posted: 3/20/2011 7:28:37 AM EDT

[#13]

When I did mine, I went to Home Depot, bought the power cord by the foot and the 2 end plugs that I needed and made the cable that I wanted. Took about 20 minutes. All you need is a screw driver.

Posted: 3/20/2011 7:30:47 AM EDT

[#14]

Wow. I really like your idea of hiding the gen set in the play set. That is awesome. I need to do that!

Posted: 3/20/2011 7:52:15 AM EDT

[#15]

Quoted:
Wow. I really like your idea of hiding the gen set in the play set. That is awesome. I need to do that!

Thanks, Mach. Another work around for the assinine HOA rules of no sheds in our subdivision!

Posted: 3/21/2011 6:29:51 AM EDT

[#16]

OK, ready to buy bought the wire to connect the transfer switch in the garage to the power inlet box located at the generator shed site in the back yard.
Used my Leica laser rangefinder to measure this distance... 23 yards = 69 feet. To make sure I have enough wire, lets call it 100 feet.
(4) 8awg THWN in conduit. G, W, B, R.
What size conduit would this require? I used 2" PVC for a previous antenna wiring project and still have 3 or 4 (10) foot sections left over.
Already called to have underground utilities marked before digging. They usually get this done in 2 days or less. Valid for 1 month after marking.

ETA: I see this happening similar to the following pics, but to the other side of the playset to keep the generator wiring away from the ham radio antenna coax.

Posted: 3/21/2011 4:24:17 PM EDT

[#17]

Quoted:
(4) 8awg THWN in conduit. G, W, B, R. What size conduit would this require? I used 2" PVC for a previous antenna wiring project and still have 3 or 4 (10) foot sections left over.

http://www.electrician2.com/calculators/rf_calculator.html

under "Insulation" select THWN.
under "Raceway" select the pulldown for "Schedule 40 PVC" –– that's most likely what you have if it came from Lowes/Home Depot.

under "Select Fill Value" leave it at "auto".

if you already have 30 feet of 2" PVC conduit you might as well just lay that from the house to the playset generator although it's way large for 4 pulls of #8. if you want you can use some PVC reducer bushings (e.g. 2" to 1-1/2") to come up into the house with smaller diameter conduit.

a couple of side notes:
whatever diameter the calculation tool returns to you, go up by one size unless you have a *really* short run to pull through. also note that the selection of 1-1/4" conduit fittings at your local Lowes/Home Depot can be thin, so if that's what you get from the tool you may want to avoid it in general and go with 1-1/2" instead.

ar-jedi

Posted: 3/21/2011 6:06:17 PM EDT

[#18]

Copper prices are super high. I'm curious why you want to use #8? Your transfer switch and inlet are only rated for 30A anyway. You won't have any voltage drop issues at that distance. #10 in a 1" pipe is what I would install. 1/2" is code but I like to upsize it and you might want to run a circuit out there for a light or convenience receptacle which is why I suggest 1". Remember that you need to bring this pipe up into the inlet box, 1" will work perfect, 2" is probably bigger than the whole inlet so you will have to use another larger box as a junction.

ETA: I forgot to mention, if you do use #8, you can pull a #10 ground.

Posted: 3/21/2011 6:23:42 PM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:
Ok, running cable under your siding isn't going to fly. You'd be better off running Romex thru your house to the back OR bring it directly outside behind the panel and run it in the ground (PVC conduit and wire is referred, but you can use direct burial cable).

If your plan is to run the Generator in the shed, you can forgo the expensive inlet and generator cable and just run the wiring underground directly to the enclosure. In the enclosure you can use a simple $2 junction box and transition to a short piece of cord with a twistlock plug end on it.

Use 8-3 with ground all around, the short cord can be 10-4 SO.

Hey Tradesman,
I thought you originally suggested #8 wire because of the approx. 75' run to the generator shed. I realize we were talking about SOOW cord first, but I thought it would remain the same using separate wires in conduit.

Posted: 3/21/2011 6:33:18 PM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Ok, running cable under your siding isn't going to fly. You'd be better off running Romex thru your house to the back OR bring it directly outside behind the panel and run it in the ground (PVC conduit and wire is referred, but you can use direct burial cable).

If your plan is to run the Generator in the shed, you can forgo the expensive inlet and generator cable and just run the wiring underground directly to the enclosure. In the enclosure you can use a simple $2 junction box and transition to a short piece of cord with a twistlock plug end on it.

Use 8-3 with ground all around, the short cord can be 10-4 SO.

Hey Tradesman,
I thought you originally suggested #8 wire because of the approx. 75' run to the generator shed. I realize we were talking about SOOW cord first, but I thought it would remain the same using separate wires in conduit.

I believe that was because you said that you ordered the roll, not sure. hmmmmm I guess I didn't put much thought into it back then, I was just going with the size that you were speaking about.

Posted: 3/21/2011 6:41:45 PM EDT

[#21]

Quoted:
ETA: I forgot to mention, if you do use #8, you can pull a #10 ground.

on page 2, ar-jedi posted:

Quoted:
per NEC you can use 10AWG green for up to a 50A circuit.

ar-jedi

Posted: 3/21/2011 6:43:34 PM EDT

[#22]

Quoted:

Quoted:
ETA: I forgot to mention, if you do use #8, you can pull a #10 ground.

on page 2, ar-jedi posted:

Quoted:
per NEC you can use 10AWG green for up to a 50A circuit.

ar-jedi

I'm getting slow in my old age

Posted: 3/21/2011 6:56:04 PM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:

Quoted:
ETA: I forgot to mention, if you do use #8, you can pull a #10 ground.

on page 2, ar-jedi posted:

Quoted:
per NEC you can use 10AWG green for up to a 50A circuit.

ar-jedi

I'm getting slow in my old age

Order wasn't supposed to ship until tomorrow. Emailed a change of order request.

Posted: 3/21/2011 7:01:32 PM EDT

[#24]

Quoted:

Quoted:
ETA: I forgot to mention, if you do use #8, you can pull a #10 ground.

on page 2, ar-jedi posted:

Quoted:
per NEC you can use 10AWG green for up to a 50A circuit.

ar-jedi

I'm getting slow in my old age

Order wasn't supposed to ship until tomorrow. Emailed a change of order request.

Ohh, I figured you would just get it at the supply house or Home Depot.

What are you going to do with that 100' of SO cord?

Posted: 3/21/2011 7:06:21 PM EDT

[#25]

Quoted:
What are you going to do with that 100' of SO cord?

string it up, get a snap swivel leash, and make a dog run with it?

ar-jedi

Posted: 3/21/2011 7:20:31 PM EDT

[#26]

Quoted:

Ohh, I figured you would just get it at the supply house or Home Depot.

What are you going to do with that 100' of SO cord?

Lowes and Home Depot didn't have 8awg in the 4 different colors, I checked a couple different places.

It was only 50' of 8-4 SOOW. No current plans for it... get it? CURRENT?

Posted: 3/21/2011 7:24:27 PM EDT

[#27]

Quoted:

Quoted:
What are you going to do with that 100' of SO cord?

string it up, get a snap swivel leash, and make a dog run with it?

http://i.ebayimg.com/17/!CDmY9jQ!mk~$%28KGrHqUOKn!Ez5Kn+iWbBNPIVNOC+!~~_3.JPG

ar-jedi

The dog prefers to "Free Range" in the fenced in back yard. Nice pic, though.

Posted: 3/22/2011 5:01:33 AM EDT

[#28]

Quoted:

Quoted:
(4) 810awg THWN in conduit. G, W, B, R. What size conduit would this require?

http://www.electrician2.com/calculators/rf_calculator.html

under "Insulation" select THWN.
under "Raceway" select the pulldown for "Schedule 40 PVC" –– that's most likely what you have if it came from Lowes/Home Depot.

under "Select Fill Value" leave it at "auto".

ar-jedi

Used this calculator and confirmed 1/2" minimum raceway size for above wire type, size and # of conductors. Upsizing to 1" conduit for cushion.

Quoted:
#10 in a 1" pipe is what I would install. 1/2" is code but I like to upsize it and you might want to run a circuit out there for a light or convenience receptacle which is why I suggest 1". Remember that you need to bring this pipe up into the inlet box, 1" will work perfect, 2" is probably bigger than the whole inlet so you will have to use another larger box as a junction.

This is what I'm going forward with now.

Thanks again ar-jedi and Tradesman.

Posted: 3/22/2011 2:36:06 PM EDT

[#29]

Hey ar-jedi, I am not familiar with his transfer switch, are you? I am assuming that it doesn't switch the neutrals, correct? If it doesn't, then the neutral-ground bond in his main panel still stands which means he will have to separate it in his generator. I'm not sure if that's even available to do in the Honda, altho it most likely will be an option in whatever larger model he uses.

Posted: 3/22/2011 4:20:59 PM EDT

[#30]

Quoted:
Hey ar-jedi, I am not familiar with his transfer switch, are you? I am assuming that it doesn't switch the neutrals, correct? If it doesn't, then the neutral-ground bond in his main panel still stands which means he will have to separate it in his generator.

i read the manual for the transfer switch and i'm 99.999% sure it does not switch the neutral (pdf).

Quoted:
I'm not sure if that's even available to do in the Honda, altho it most likely will be an option in whatever larger model he uses.

the Honda EU2000i does *not* bond the neutral to the ground. in fact i don't think any of Honda's inverter models do so.

see pages 17 (wording) and 55 (diagram) of the EU2000i user manual (pdf).

GROUND SYSTEM
Connections for standby power to a building electrical system must be
made by a qualified electrician. The connection must isolate the
generator power from utility power, and must comply with all
applicable laws and electrical codes.

Honda portable generators have a system ground that connects
generator frame components to the ground terminals in the AC output
receptacles. The system ground is not connected to the AC neutral
wire. If the generator is tested by a receptacle tester, it will not show
the same ground circuit condition as for a home receptacle.

ar-jedi

Posted: 3/22/2011 4:59:40 PM EDT

[#31]

What does this mean to the end user, please

Posted: 3/22/2011 6:25:37 PM EDT

[#32]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Hey ar-jedi, I am not familiar with his transfer switch, are you? I am assuming that it doesn't switch the neutrals, correct? If it doesn't, then the neutral-ground bond in his main panel still stands which means he will have to separate it in his generator.

i read the manual for the transfer switch and i'm 99.999% sure it does not switch the neutral (pdf).

Quoted:
I'm not sure if that's even available to do in the Honda, altho it most likely will be an option in whatever larger model he uses.

the Honda EU2000i does *not* bond the neutral to the ground. in fact i don't think any of Honda's inverter models do so.

see pages 17 (wording) and 55 (diagram) of the EU2000i user manual (pdf).

GROUND SYSTEM
Connections for standby power to a building electrical system must be
made by a qualified electrician. The connection must isolate the
generator power from utility power, and must comply with all
applicable laws and electrical codes.

Honda portable generators have a system ground that connects
generator frame components to the ground terminals in the AC output
receptacles. The system ground is not connected to the AC neutral
wire. If the generator is tested by a receptacle tester, it will not show
the same ground circuit condition as for a home receptacle.

ar-jedi

Thanks! That sounds a bit dangerous, what's the point of even having a grounding conductor if it's not bonded? I'm going to have to look into that out of curiosity.

Posted: 3/22/2011 6:34:04 PM EDT

[#33]

Quoted:
http://home.comcast.net/~gregbell/i-can-catch-lightning-in-a-bottle.jpg

What does this mean to the end user, please

First, here is the purpose of grounding written by someone who writes better than me

The purpose of the ground wire on an appliance or in a house branch circuit is to provide a low impedance low resistance return path for the fault current to return to the distribution panel. This high return fault current will cause the circuit's breaker to trip and disconnect the fault.

The ground wire usually doesn't have anything to do with the normal electrical functioning of an electrical appliance but - because the ground wire is connected to the chassis or casing of the appliance - if an electrically 'hot' wire breaks or its insulation chafes so that it touches the chassis or casing, it will be shorted to ground via the ground wire, causing a very high current to flow in the 'hot' wire.

That high current will cause the circuit breaker to trip or a fuse to blow, thus cutting off the current and preventing the chassis or casing from electrocuting the user. Shutting off the current should also prevent the wires in the circuit from heating up so much that they catch on fire. Such a fault can easily be the cause of a serious house fire.

Ok, now knowing that, the reason why the grounding system works is because it is bonded to the neutral at the service. Because of that bond, when a fault occurs the electricity can flow thru the ground back to neutral and complete the circuit (and blow the breaker, etc.)

Without that bond, the ground is worthless, nothing will happen.

In your system, since your transfer switch doesn't switch the neutral, you are still using the bond already made in your main panel (or outside disconnect) so you are all set up for the eu2000i.

Posted: 3/22/2011 6:59:51 PM EDT

[#34]

Thanks for breaking that down in layman's terms.

Posted: 3/22/2011 7:31:38 PM EDT

[#35]

Quoted:
Thanks for breaking that down in layman's terms.

here, let me simplify it further...

don't stick forks, knives, or spoons into an AC receptacle. screwdrivers are right out as well.

ar-jedi

Posted: 3/23/2011 5:04:44 AM EDT

[#36]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Thanks for breaking that down in layman's terms.

here, let me simplify it further...

don't stick forks, knives, or spoons into an AC receptacle. screwdrivers are right out as well.

ar-jedi

Originally Quoted from Ghostbusters:

Dr. Peter Venkman: I'm a little fuzzy on the whole "good/bad" thing, here. What do you mean, "bad"?
Dr. Egon Spengler: Try to imagine all life as you know it stopping instantaneously and every molecule in your body exploding at the speed of light.
Dr. Ray Stantz: [low whistle] Total protonic reversal!
Dr. Peter Venkman: That's bad. OK, all right, important safety tip. Thanks, Egon ar-jedi.

Posted: 3/23/2011 4:35:05 PM EDT

[#37]

Quoted:
I ordered (2) of the hour meters...

The hour meters showed up today.

Posted: 3/23/2011 4:49:12 PM EDT

[#38]

B-D,
did you find an inexpensive source for them?

ar-jedi

Posted: 3/23/2011 4:57:26 PM EDT

[#39]

No, I checked the Amazon link and a few others on EBay. They were about the same price as the SenDEC factory direct price, so that's where mine came from.
No deal this time.
Seemed like every cheaper one I found was a panel mount version rather than a surface mount.

Posted: 3/24/2011 4:01:41 PM EDT

[#40]

Installed the hour meters on both generators.

Posted: 3/24/2011 5:19:20 PM EDT

[#41]

are they mounted upside down?

ar-jedi

Posted: 3/24/2011 5:51:24 PM EDT

[#42]

Quoted:

are they mounted upside down?

ar-jedi

Ha! Not if you look at them from the controls side!
I looked at it both ways and agree with your evaluation.

Posted: 4/2/2011 9:16:57 AM EDT

[#43]

Quoted:

B-D,
did you find an inexpensive source for them?

ar-jedi

Quoted:
No, I checked the Amazon link and a few others on EBay. They were about the same price as the SenDEC factory direct price, so that's where mine came from.
No deal this time.
Seemed like every cheaper one I found was a panel mount version rather than a surface mount.

Update on this topic:

I called SenDEC Corp and asked why I was sent (2) meters with the SenDEC name scrubbed off and in pink ziplock bags rather than retail packaging.
Their customer service manager apologized and sent me (2) more proper meters. Said to keep the first set for my trouble. I call that good customer service.
So, they wound up costing only half as much.

Posted: 4/2/2011 11:56:54 AM EDT

[#44]

You looking to sell them?

I've also heard that some people use the DC output on the 2000i for their hour meter, anyone know pro's or con's about that?

Posted: 4/2/2011 1:07:24 PM EDT

[#45]

Quoted:
You looking to sell them?

Hey Tradesman,
I think I'm going to hang on to these to put on my snow blower and lawn mower.
Thanks for the interest, though.
BD

Posted: 4/2/2011 1:19:40 PM EDT

[#46]

I took the cover off the load center and penciled in where the transfer switch is going to be installed.

Posted: 4/2/2011 1:33:41 PM EDT

[#47]

Before mounting the switch, make sure you have enough greenfield to make the turn into the drywall and under the panel. Sometimes the flex can be deceiving.

I'm sure I don't have to tell you, but be very careful by the feeders when opening the KO on the bottom of the panel, they are unfused and will continue to arc blast until they melted enough metal away to clear the fault.

That's nice the way they pre-wire the transfer switches, I remember years ago having to do all that wiring myself.

Posted: 4/2/2011 1:38:50 PM EDT

[#48]

Quoted:
Before mounting the switch, make sure you have enough greenfield to make the turn into the drywall and under the panel. Sometimes the flex can be deceiving.

I'm sure I don't have to tell you, but be very careful by the feeders when opening the KO on the bottom of the panel, they are unfused and will continue to arc blast until they melted enough metal away to clear the fault.

That's nice the way they pre-wire the transfer switches, I remember years ago having to do all that wiring myself.

Understood. I'm a chicken when it comes to electricity.

Posted: 4/2/2011 2:08:01 PM EDT

[#49]

Quoted:
I'm sure I don't have to tell you, but be very careful by the feeders when opening the KO on the bottom of the panel, they are unfused and will continue to arc blast until they melted enough metal away to clear the fault.

this_thread_is_worthless_without_pics.JPG

ar-jedi

Posted: 4/2/2011 3:36:09 PM EDT

[#50]

Quoted:

Quoted:

B-D,
did you find an inexpensive source for them?

ar-jedi

Quoted:
No, I checked the Amazon link and a few others on EBay. They were about the same price as the SenDEC factory direct price, so that's where mine came from.
No deal this time.
Seemed like every cheaper one I found was a panel mount version rather than a surface mount.

Update on this topic:

I called SenDEC Corp and asked why I was sent (2) meters with the SenDEC name scrubbed off and in pink ziplock bags rather than retail packaging.
Their customer service manager apologized and sent me (2) more proper meters. Said to keep the first set for my trouble. I call that good customer service.
So, they wound up costing only half as much.

http://home.comcast.net/~gregbell/Hour Meters 09.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~gregbell/Hour Meters 10.jpg

Interesting.

My meters came directly from SenDEC too, and like yours the names were missing. I wonder why.

By the way, you're both wrong about where you have your meters mounted

Just kidding! I understand the logic of drilling into the $5.00 access door, as opposed to the $125.00 body.

I use the six-circuit version of your transfer switch with a small weather tight box on the outside of the house for the L14-30 receptacle. Since each of my generators have different output receptacles I've constructed jumpers specific for each model (5-20R, L5-20R, and L14-30R):

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - DIY Generator Power Cables & Install (Page 2 of 5)

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