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6/21/2017 8:25:40 PM
Do it yourself Kydex.... (Page 42 of 81)
Page / 81
Link Posted: 1/21/2013 10:08:57 AM EDT
Originally Posted By aperdue:
check chicagoscrews.com . They have a really good variety of fastners. They may not have that exact set, but will have something close. Rubber tubing works great as rubber spacers


This what I use all the time.
Link Posted: 1/21/2013 10:07:24 PM EDT
http://epoperator.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/breifcasebuddy.jpg

A insert I made to keep everything nice and situated in my tool/work bag

Im really digging everybodys work.... I love kydex.
Link Posted: 1/21/2013 11:57:34 PM EDT
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By stonedv8:
Awesome thread. I am on page 47 so far reading though it and my eyes are bleeding.

Here is my modest contribution so far. First attempt, I am very happy for a 1st go, but I know some places I will be making changes for future builds.

From This:

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/stonedv8/2013-01-19_22-35-36_279.jpg

To This:

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/stonedv8/2013-01-21_00-41-51_668.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/stonedv8/2013-01-21_00-42-03_431.jpg

Again a 1st attempt. Will be smoothing things out a bit. Realized I put my rivets out farther than needed which made the sheath wider than it should have.

Also need to find a less expensive source for this hardware. Knifekits is $2 for a set of 2..Anyone else have a good source, I dont mind buying in bulk.

http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/images/smh_assy_1b_550.jpg


Did you cut and rivet it then mold it? Also any reason you put the back side piece smooth side out and ruff side in? Rivet placement doesn't look bad, could bring them closer by using smaller rivets.




Curious of a source for those bolts also.


yes, I cut an outline, riveted it and then molded it. That was the first video I watched on YouTube on how to do a kydex sheath. Video was actually posted in this thread a few pages back and that's where I found it.

The reason the backside is the slick side is because I was so excited about this new experience when I cut and drilled my first hole I had both pieces on top of each other and wasnt thinking about inverting the bottom, so the rough sides would be facing out. Basically I stacked them wrong, and by that time the hold had been drilled. Since my first hole was offset in proportion to the angle of the blade I couldnt flip the back side over and make it work. Again, this was a first attempt, didnt see a point in wasting kydex to redo it so I went with it. Like I said earlier, I learned some things .. Besides the Cold Steel Bushman that it is home for now is a worker, so scratches on the finish of the blade wont concern me any.

The rivets are the 8-8 every recommends from Knifekits. And they fit the Chicago screws just fine. I am happy with the placement, just want to move them in. They are placed every 1 1/2" out to accommodate a tek-lok or whatever.
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 8:21:04 AM EDT
Originally Posted By stonedv8:
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By stonedv8:
Awesome thread. I am on page 47 so far reading though it and my eyes are bleeding.

Here is my modest contribution so far. First attempt, I am very happy for a 1st go, but I know some places I will be making changes for future builds.

From This:

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/stonedv8/2013-01-19_22-35-36_279.jpg

To This:

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/stonedv8/2013-01-21_00-41-51_668.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/stonedv8/2013-01-21_00-42-03_431.jpg

Again a 1st attempt. Will be smoothing things out a bit. Realized I put my rivets out farther than needed which made the sheath wider than it should have.

Also need to find a less expensive source for this hardware. Knifekits is $2 for a set of 2..Anyone else have a good source, I dont mind buying in bulk.

http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/images/smh_assy_1b_550.jpg


Did you cut and rivet it then mold it? Also any reason you put the back side piece smooth side out and ruff side in? Rivet placement doesn't look bad, could bring them closer by using smaller rivets.




Curious of a source for those bolts also.


yes, I cut an outline, riveted it and then molded it. That was the first video I watched on YouTube on how to do a kydex sheath. Video was actually posted in this thread a few pages back and that's where I found it.

The reason the backside is the slick side is because I was so excited about this new experience when I cut and drilled my first hole I had both pieces on top of each other and wasnt thinking about inverting the bottom, so the rough sides would be facing out. Basically I stacked them wrong, and by that time the hold had been drilled. Since my first hole was offset in proportion to the angle of the blade I couldnt flip the back side over and make it work. Again, this was a first attempt, didnt see a point in wasting kydex to redo it so I went with it. Like I said earlier, I learned some things .. Besides the Cold Steel Bushman that it is home for now is a worker, so scratches on the finish of the blade wont concern me any.

The rivets are the 8-8 every recommends from Knifekits. And they fit the Chicago screws just fine. I am happy with the placement, just want to move them in. They are placed every 1 1/2" out to accommodate a tek-lok or whatever.


I do with each one that I make too.
We have all had that aww shit moment in making them where you drill the wrong spot or cut the wrong side. lol
What foam did you use?



Link Posted: 1/22/2013 9:09:42 PM EDT


I do with each one that I make too.
We have all had that aww shit moment in making them where you drill the wrong spot or cut the wrong side. lol
What foam did you use?





Gardening/Kneeling foam from Lowes...Worked pretty good, but I can see it wont last long. Went back and ordered the molding foam from Knifekits...And some Pink kydex, wife saw the sheath and requested a sheath for her pepper spray on her purse.
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 11:51:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/23/2013 11:54:36 PM EDT by Deanventure]






I have figured out edge finishing!!!!
I love this knife. A great deal for less than $25.

Goodyear fuel line makes great spacer material. It doesn't compress as easily as other rubber tubing.

Link Posted: 1/23/2013 11:56:24 PM EDT


I have figured out edge finishing!!!!
I love this knife. A great deal for less than $25.

Goodyear fuel line makes great spacer material. It doesn't compress as easily as other rubber tubing.



Damn fine job on the edge finishing.

Love the mora knives as well...Think my next project will be a sheath for one of those, now that I know how to do better.
Link Posted: 1/24/2013 8:39:11 AM EDT
Link Posted: 1/24/2013 10:19:46 AM EDT
Hi guys, I have a question I have a cousin that is wanting to make his own kydex stuff. He can't afford the foam rightnow after dumping money into the other tools and I can't remember the name of the blue foam that you can pick up at lowes or homedepot. Does anyone know what type of foam it is that you can substitute kydex foam for?
Link Posted: 1/24/2013 10:55:56 AM EDT
I've been using the blue foam camping pads from walmart with good results. I have a few photos a couple pages back.
Link Posted: 1/24/2013 12:42:51 PM EDT
Originally Posted By crazybull:
Hi guys, I have a question I have a cousin that is wanting to make his own kydex stuff. He can't afford the foam rightnow after dumping money into the other tools and I can't remember the name of the blue foam that you can pick up at lowes or homedepot. Does anyone know what type of foam it is that you can substitute kydex foam for?


People had said they used the gardening mats from Lowes
Link Posted: 1/24/2013 1:01:29 PM EDT
Originally Posted By lostman518:
I've been using the blue foam camping pads from walmart with good results. I have a few photos a couple pages back.


Same here. I stack it I think two high on each side, and then clamp it down.
Link Posted: 1/24/2013 1:42:39 PM EDT

Originally Posted By AlanP:
Originally Posted By lostman518:
I've been using the blue foam camping pads from walmart with good results. I have a few photos a couple pages back.


Same here. I stack it I think two high on each side, and then clamp it down.

I use yoga mat foam from wally world. I use a double layer in my press.
It's neoprene foam instead of the closed cell stuff most camping pads are made of.
It comes in tactical black...

Link Posted: 1/24/2013 2:06:52 PM EDT
I made the fiancée her 1st holster for her XDm 3.8 9mm + TLR-2 that I got her last year.









Her modeling it with her new camo I got her as well.
Link Posted: 1/24/2013 2:58:24 PM EDT
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Originally Posted By crazybull:
Hi guys, I have a question I have a cousin that is wanting to make his own kydex stuff. He can't afford the foam rightnow after dumping money into the other tools and I can't remember the name of the blue foam that you can pick up at lowes or homedepot. Does anyone know what type of foam it is that you can substitute kydex foam for?


People had said they used the gardening mats from Lowes


I've been using these....
Link Posted: 1/25/2013 9:10:06 AM EDT
I need to get some more foam. I might get all three and see what works the best. KK, garden mat and yoga pad.
Link Posted: 1/25/2013 10:59:28 AM EDT
You can get the "anti fatigue" foot mats, then cut and stack them.
Link Posted: 1/25/2013 2:56:21 PM EDT
which screws do i need to get from knifekits.com that fit the iwb loops?
i want to use .080 kydex with the 1/4 rivets
so which screws would fit the loops and the kydex?

Link Posted: 1/25/2013 3:57:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/28/2013 3:48:06 PM EDT by Deanventure]

Originally Posted By aperdue:



nice job! could you share the details of where you are getting your hardware (screws) from and what size you are using?
I'm not sure where I acquired those oval head screws. I'd like to find some more, locally if I could.
They are 8-32 screws with Chicago style posts on the back. I have bought the Chicago screw from Knifekits.com and from USAknifemaker.com.
If you plan on doing much kydex work, do yourself a favor and buy the eyelet setting dies from USAknifemaker.com and an arbor press from harbor freight.
They work perfectly.

Link Posted: 1/28/2013 12:54:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/28/2013 1:04:19 PM EDT by TheBigAR2003]
this is what i just ordered from knifekits.com
am i missing anything? i have drill bits and clamps.


2 x KYDEX™ Sheet - Coyote Brown - (.080)
2 x Mounting Assembly - Belt Loops - CKK Design - (with silencer) - (Black)
2 x KYDEX™ Sheet - Black - (.080)
1 x KYDEX™ Sheet - Black - (.125)
1 x Hand Setter Kit - (#8) - (for 1/4 inch sheath rivets)
2 x IWB Loops - *Rubber* - Tactical Black - (inside the waist band)
1 x Eyelets - #8-8 (1/4) - Black Finish - (for .080 KYDEX™/HOLSTEX™) - 100 Pack
2 x Sheath/Holster Making Foam - Thermoform Molding - (Standard Form) - (8x12x1)
2 x KYDEX™ Sheet - Olive Drab - (.080)
2 x KYDEX™ Sheet - Gunmetal Gray - (.080)
1 x Chicago Screws - Black Oxide #8 - (.1875 x .250) - 10 pack
Link Posted: 1/28/2013 3:34:33 PM EDT
What are you using for your heat? Got plenty of razor blades and sad paper? FYI use that hand setter in a vice and it will make the rivets much nicer.
Link Posted: 1/28/2013 7:13:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/28/2013 7:16:28 PM EDT by TheBigAR2003]
I have a toaster oven and a hair dryer with a directional head like a heat gun plenty of razors and samd paper and a vice
I will be hitting hardware store for clamps and some plywood to use as a press
Link Posted: 1/29/2013 5:43:05 AM EDT
Never used a hair dryer, will that make enough heat?
Link Posted: 1/29/2013 8:10:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/29/2013 8:11:49 AM EDT by usmc0331tamu00]
Originally Posted By 4DAIVIPAI2K5:
Never used a hair dryer, will that make enough heat?


Highly unlikely.
Link Posted: 1/29/2013 8:21:55 AM EDT
Hair dryer definitly works. Prolonged, close-up heat on a small area.
Link Posted: 1/29/2013 8:39:21 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/29/2013 8:48:21 AM EDT by Impyman18]
If y'all want a great tool for spot heating to remove or add retention without hot spot this will be the best $10+ shipping you will ever spend.

I love mine!

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10326
Link Posted: 1/29/2013 10:15:32 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Impyman18:
If y'all want a great tool for spot heating to remove or add retention without hot spot this will be the best $10+ shipping you will ever spend.

I love mine!

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10326


That instruction manual is epic!
Link Posted: 1/30/2013 1:28:16 PM EDT
Here is a question....

If I use a firmer foam on one side of my press.....and a softer foam on the other side.....will the Kydex yield against the firmer foam....be substantial enough (to outset the gun to the exterior of the body) to make a difference?

I have 2 different densities of foam.....I want to put the softer foam on the body side...and the firmer foam on the exterior side....in hopes that the Kydex will have a smoother side to the body.

Does this sound feasible?
Link Posted: 2/3/2013 10:36:55 AM EDT
Crappy pics of one for a Taurus 709 slim

Link Posted: 2/4/2013 4:20:30 PM EDT
so i tried making a knife sheath and it turned out alright but i had a few questions
first the kydex in the toaster oven kinda curled up on the sides is that normal or is it heating too fast?
also i bought the foam from knifekits.com and which side to i need to use?
i tried both sides of the foam and both stuck to the kydex and some of the foam ripped off and stuck to the kydex
what did i do wrong?
Link Posted: 2/4/2013 4:34:55 PM EDT
Originally Posted By TheBigAR2003:
so i tried making a knife sheath and it turned out alright but i had a few questions
first the kydex in the toaster oven kinda curled up on the sides is that normal or is it heating too fast?
also i bought the foam from knifekits.com and which side to i need to use?
i tried both sides of the foam and both stuck to the kydex and some of the foam ripped off and stuck to the kydex
what did i do wrong?


Too hot. Need to let the oven warm up before putting in the kydex. Use laser thermo pointer to check the temp of kydex as it heats. Pull kydex from oven when it reaches 300-310*. Also let it cool for a while in the foam press before removing.
Link Posted: 2/4/2013 5:22:27 PM EDT
I believe its the shinyer side towards the Kydex
Link Posted: 2/4/2013 7:43:46 PM EDT
Originally Posted By SlowPoke77:
Originally Posted By TheBigAR2003:
so i tried making a knife sheath and it turned out alright but i had a few questions
first the kydex in the toaster oven kinda curled up on the sides is that normal or is it heating too fast?
also i bought the foam from knifekits.com and which side to i need to use?
i tried both sides of the foam and both stuck to the kydex and some of the foam ripped off and stuck to the kydex
what did i do wrong?


Too hot. Need to let the oven warm up before putting in the kydex. Use laser thermo pointer to check the temp of kydex as it heats. Pull kydex from oven when it reaches 300-310*. Also let it cool for a while in the foam press before removing.


this
Link Posted: 2/8/2013 8:56:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/8/2013 8:57:42 AM EDT by Russ2327]
Link Posted: 2/8/2013 9:50:13 AM EDT


I'd say spacer.....If I had to guess.
Link Posted: 2/8/2013 1:36:02 PM EDT
Finally got my hands on a 9mm shield. Made an AIWB holster for it.



Link Posted: 2/9/2013 5:21:32 PM EDT
Multicam kydex. Shit is hard to photograph.




Link Posted: 2/9/2013 8:46:12 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/10/2013 8:25:37 AM EDT
I'll give that a go when I get to the store. Thanks for the advise.
Link Posted: 2/10/2013 9:13:36 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Echo2:
Here is a question....

If I use a firmer foam on one side of my press.....and a softer foam on the other side.....will the Kydex yield against the firmer foam....be substantial enough (to outset the gun to the exterior of the body) to make a difference?

I have 2 different densities of foam.....I want to put the softer foam on the body side...and the firmer foam on the exterior side....in hopes that the Kydex will have a smoother side to the body.

Does this sound feasible?


No one knows?
Link Posted: 2/10/2013 10:43:29 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Echo2:
Originally Posted By Echo2:
Here is a question....

If I use a firmer foam on one side of my press.....and a softer foam on the other side.....will the Kydex yield against the firmer foam....be substantial enough (to outset the gun to the exterior of the body) to make a difference?

I have 2 different densities of foam.....I want to put the softer foam on the body side...and the firmer foam on the exterior side....in hopes that the Kydex will have a smoother side to the body.

Does this sound feasible?


No one knows?


Never tried it, sorry.
Link Posted: 2/10/2013 8:32:00 PM EDT
My brother wanted a paddle holster for his M&P Shield. We robbed the hardware from a broken Uncle Mike's paddle holster and came up with this:





Link Posted: 2/11/2013 1:45:48 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/11/2013 1:50:36 AM EDT by rtech]
Got my hands on a Shield so I made a bunch of holsters for them.






Shaken, not stirred...

Link Posted: 2/11/2013 1:08:34 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Echo2:
Here is a question....

If I use a firmer foam on one side of my press.....and a softer foam on the other side.....will the Kydex yield against the firmer foam....be substantial enough (to outset the gun to the exterior of the body) to make a difference?

I have 2 different densities of foam.....I want to put the softer foam on the body side...and the firmer foam on the exterior side....in hopes that the Kydex will have a smoother side to the body.

Does this sound feasible?
What will happen is you won't get the "definition" or boning (picking up the detail transfer from the firearm) on the softer foam side. The hard surface pressing the softer foam will just compress and hit the kydex sooner than the denser foam. I also use heavy duty screw type presses and can really compress the foam. Works way better than hinge type presses.

On my stuff, I use the foam from Knifekits and I get about 30 or so impressions per foam set. It's just a cost of doing business but most people like the defined impression transfer and gives the holster detail. I sell a lot holsters because of the detail and finishing quality. I've been making kydex holsters for over 10 years. I was making both "sandwich" type and taco style holsters back in 2000 for a firearms instructor here in Phoenix. I also don't have the backlog and waiting times of Raven.

Link Posted: 2/11/2013 1:44:19 PM EDT
Originally Posted By rtech:

Originally Posted By Echo2:
Here is a question....

If I use a firmer foam on one side of my press.....and a softer foam on the other side.....will the Kydex yield against the firmer foam....be substantial enough (to outset the gun to the exterior of the body) to make a difference?

I have 2 different densities of foam.....I want to put the softer foam on the body side...and the firmer foam on the exterior side....in hopes that the Kydex will have a smoother side to the body.

Does this sound feasible?
What will happen is you won't get the "definition" or boning (picking up the detail transfer from the firearm) on the softer foam side. The hard surface pressing the softer foam will just compress and hit the kydex sooner than the denser foam. I also use heavy duty screw type presses and can really compress the foam. Works way better than hinge type presses.

On my stuff, I use the foam from Knifekits and I get about 30 or so impressions per foam set. It's just a cost of doing business but most people like the defined impression transfer and gives the holster detail. I sell a lot holsters because of the detail and finishing quality. I've been making kydex holsters for over 10 years. I was making both "sandwich" type and taco style holsters back in 2000 for a firearms instructor here in Phoenix. I also don't have the backlog and waiting times of Raven.



That's what I would like to accomplish.....body side less defined.....smother against the body.

I would also assume that using .080 on the away side and .093 on the body side would accomplish the same.
Link Posted: 2/11/2013 5:07:03 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Echo2:


That's what I would like to accomplish.....body side less defined.....smother against the body.

I would also assume that using .080 on the away side and .093 on the body side would accomplish the same.

I use .060 primarily now, but also use .080 and .093. The thicker stuff needs to be heated more to get definition, but you'll never get as much definition as with .060. I used .093 back in the day but now use .060 as it tends to be "stonger' with all the ridges and lines in it, much like corrugated cardboard. The foam and pressure is going to be your key to getting what you want.

The higher you heat past 300 degrees or so, the more likelihood of burning or shrinking up the kydex. It's a real fine line. With the thicker stuff, I don't go past 350. With .060, I keep it around 300.

The best foam I've seen is the stuff from Knifekits, but I'm looking for a cheaper vendor. I'm also looking for a cheaper source for rivets. I'm going to order 5000 as soon as I can find a source. Tired of paying .13 cents a rivet.

I currently have 2 presses and ovens running and knock out about 30 holsters a week, depending on special features. My mentor was David Brown, from Buy Brown holsters whom I met in the late 1990's. He's still the master.
Link Posted: 2/11/2013 7:27:30 PM EDT
Originally Posted By rtech:

Originally Posted By Echo2:


That's what I would like to accomplish.....body side less defined.....smother against the body.

I would also assume that using .080 on the away side and .093 on the body side would accomplish the same.

I use .060 primarily now, but also use .080 and .093. The thicker stuff needs to be heated more to get definition, but you'll never get as much definition as with .060. I used .093 back in the day but now use .060 as it tends to be "stonger' with all the ridges and lines in it, much like corrugated cardboard. The foam and pressure is going to be your key to getting what you want.

The higher you heat past 300 degrees or so, the more likelihood of burning or shrinking up the kydex. It's a real fine line. With the thicker stuff, I don't go past 350. With .060, I keep it around 300.

The best foam I've seen is the stuff from Knifekits, but I'm looking for a cheaper vendor. I'm also looking for a cheaper source for rivets. I'm going to order 5000 as soon as I can find a source. Tired of paying .13 cents a rivet.

I currently have 2 presses and ovens running and knock out about 30 holsters a week, depending on special features. My mentor was David Brown, from Buy Brown holsters whom I met in the late 1990's. He's still the master.


I'm not looking for extreme definition on the body side.

This is the press I'm using...



I have a couple fastener vendors looking for rivets for me....we'll see what happens.

I also found a source close to home on 4' x 8' sheets....but will try to see what happens with the 10 sq ft I'm playing with now.

I have a toaster oven...and a full size.....and a Fluke IR thermometer.

I have been using foam "gardener knee pads" from Lowe's....but A HVAC guy I work with at times...said he could get 2' x 4' x 1" sheets....once again...we'll see.
Link Posted: 2/12/2013 12:29:45 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Echo2:
Originally Posted By rtech:

Originally Posted By Echo2:


That's what I would like to accomplish.....body side less defined.....smother against the body.

I would also assume that using .080 on the away side and .093 on the body side would accomplish the same.

I use .060 primarily now, but also use .080 and .093. The thicker stuff needs to be heated more to get definition, but you'll never get as much definition as with .060. I used .093 back in the day but now use .060 as it tends to be "stonger' with all the ridges and lines in it, much like corrugated cardboard. The foam and pressure is going to be your key to getting what you want.

The higher you heat past 300 degrees or so, the more likelihood of burning or shrinking up the kydex. It's a real fine line. With the thicker stuff, I don't go past 350. With .060, I keep it around 300.

The best foam I've seen is the stuff from Knifekits, but I'm looking for a cheaper vendor. I'm also looking for a cheaper source for rivets. I'm going to order 5000 as soon as I can find a source. Tired of paying .13 cents a rivet.

I currently have 2 presses and ovens running and knock out about 30 holsters a week, depending on special features. My mentor was David Brown, from Buy Brown holsters whom I met in the late 1990's. He's still the master.


I'm not looking for extreme definition on the body side.

This is the press I'm using...

[url=http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y484/echo26c/press1.jpg]http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y484/echo26c/press1.jpg/url]

I have a couple fastener vendors looking for rivets for me....we'll see what happens.

I also found a source close to home on 4' x 8' sheets....but will try to see what happens with the 10 sq ft I'm playing with now.

I have a toaster oven...and a full size.....and a Fluke IR thermometer.

I have been using foam "gardener knee pads" from Lowe's....but A HVAC guy I work with at times...said he could get 2' x 4' x 1" sheets....once again...we'll see.


is your press a custom build or did you buy it? i'd like to get a similar press but not sure what to look for. i have trouble with the hinge type moving the sheets and trying to just clamp boards together on the floor is a PITA.

not that i have any time to make anything right now but just looking for new options.
Link Posted: 2/12/2013 6:29:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/12/2013 6:29:51 AM EDT by Echo2]
Originally Posted By Wils91:

is your press a custom build or did you buy it? i'd like to get a similar press but not sure what to look for. i have trouble with the hinge type moving the sheets and trying to just clamp boards together on the floor is a PITA.

not that i have any time to make anything right now but just looking for new options.


I built it for the Mrs as a flower press....when she was crafting....she stopped using it....I reclaimed it...:)
Link Posted: 2/12/2013 7:18:23 PM EDT



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Do it yourself Kydex.... (Page 42 of 81)
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