User Panel
User Panel
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OH, USA
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Posted: 11/9/2009 5:50:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ROOSTER15]
[#1]
I don't know if someone has posted this yet but, the black foam I've used before is called Armorflex. You can get it from industrial/commercial HVAC supplys.
Looks to be the same stuff millsusaf is using. |
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Posted: 11/9/2009 6:20:14 PM EDT
[#2]
Tag for reference
GM |
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Posted: 11/15/2009 3:40:19 PM EDT
[#3]
OST
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Posted: 11/17/2009 8:24:44 AM EDT
[#4]
Someone asked me where I got the carbon fiber print Kydex. I got it at Knifekits, but its called Concealex, so its in a slightly different place in the menu.
Concealex at Knifekits.com Awesome work everybody, by the way. Thanks again to Metcalf for getting us started on this. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 11/17/2009 8:54:53 AM EDT
[#5]
Made this with a forward cant for my Swamprat Hairy Cairi.
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USA
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Posted: 11/24/2009 7:05:46 PM EDT
[#6]
Wow. Coolest thread ever.
For those that have already done it, what thickness kydex did you go with, and are you happy with it? I see .060ish through .125. Are there strength issues with the thinner kydex in the .060 range, or is it still plenty strong? Is one thickness better for IWB and another better for OWB holsters? Also, looking at knifekits.com I see in the tools section where you can buy quality tools that appear to go in a press or arbor, and also a much cheaper punch / anvil type tool. Is it worth it to invest in decent tools, or is the simple punch / anvil adequate for an amature? Thanks |
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Posted: 11/25/2009 8:02:16 AM EDT
[#7]
Originally Posted By Razzman1:
Wow. Coolest thread ever. For those that have already done it, what thickness kydex did you go with, and are you happy with it? I see .060ish through .125. Are there strength issues with the thinner kydex in the .060 range, or is it still plenty strong? Is one thickness better for IWB and another better for OWB holsters? Also, looking at knifekits.com I see in the tools section where you can buy quality tools that appear to go in a press or arbor, and also a much cheaper punch / anvil type tool. Is it worth it to invest in decent tools, or is the simple punch / anvil adequate for an amature? Thanks The .060 stuff is pretty thin although it is great, and in my opinion the only way to go, for IWB stuff. If you think you will need more strength a good compromise is the .080 stuff. .093 stuff is built like a tank and baring something major happening to it I just don't see it breaking....ever. Unless you want to add a lot of bulk to your pants it is OWB only. It is great for the IWB belt hooks though. I have cracked a dual mag back pocket holder from trying to bend it with no heat. It however is still in use and works great even though it is cracked. As for the tools, I would suggest getting the dies that go in the arbor unless you just plan to do one piece of kydex. Don't bother with the arbor press however, for these eyelets, a drill press works 100%. I hope that helps. |
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USA
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Posted: 11/25/2009 10:29:25 AM EDT
[#8]
Originally Posted By millsusaf:
Originally Posted By Razzman1:
Wow. Coolest thread ever. For those that have already done it, what thickness kydex did you go with, and are you happy with it? I see .060ish through .125. Are there strength issues with the thinner kydex in the .060 range, or is it still plenty strong? Is one thickness better for IWB and another better for OWB holsters? Also, looking at knifekits.com I see in the tools section where you can buy quality tools that appear to go in a press or arbor, and also a much cheaper punch / anvil type tool. Is it worth it to invest in decent tools, or is the simple punch / anvil adequate for an amature? Thanks The .060 stuff is pretty thin although it is great, and in my opinion the only way to go, for IWB stuff. If you think you will need more strength a good compromise is the .080 stuff. .093 stuff is built like a tank and baring something major happening to it I just don't see it breaking....ever. Unless you want to add a lot of bulk to your pants it is OWB only. It is great for the IWB belt hooks though. I have cracked a dual mag back pocket holder from trying to bend it with no heat. It however is still in use and works great even though it is cracked. As for the tools, I would suggest getting the dies that go in the arbor unless you just plan to do one piece of kydex. Don't bother with the arbor press however, for these eyelets, a drill press works 100%. I hope that helps. A drill press...You mean use a drill press as the arbor?––Chuck the die up like its a drill bit and just turn the wheel down as though you were drilling? That's a great idea, thanks. And thanks also for the thickness suggestions. I think just for the hell of it I'll get a couple of sheets of both and play around with it. |
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Posted: 11/25/2009 9:58:47 PM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By Razzman1:
Originally Posted By millsusaf:
Originally Posted By Razzman1:
Wow. Coolest thread ever. For those that have already done it, what thickness kydex did you go with, and are you happy with it? I see .060ish through .125. Are there strength issues with the thinner kydex in the .060 range, or is it still plenty strong? Is one thickness better for IWB and another better for OWB holsters? Also, looking at knifekits.com I see in the tools section where you can buy quality tools that appear to go in a press or arbor, and also a much cheaper punch / anvil type tool. Is it worth it to invest in decent tools, or is the simple punch / anvil adequate for an amature? Thanks The .060 stuff is pretty thin although it is great, and in my opinion the only way to go, for IWB stuff. If you think you will need more strength a good compromise is the .080 stuff. .093 stuff is built like a tank and baring something major happening to it I just don't see it breaking....ever. Unless you want to add a lot of bulk to your pants it is OWB only. It is great for the IWB belt hooks though. I have cracked a dual mag back pocket holder from trying to bend it with no heat. It however is still in use and works great even though it is cracked. As for the tools, I would suggest getting the dies that go in the arbor unless you just plan to do one piece of kydex. Don't bother with the arbor press however, for these eyelets, a drill press works 100%. I hope that helps. A drill press...You mean use a drill press as the arbor?––Chuck the die up like its a drill bit and just turn the wheel down as though you were drilling? That's a great idea, thanks. And thanks also for the thickness suggestions. I think just for the hell of it I'll get a couple of sheets of both and play around with it. I wish I could claim it as my own, but can't. I read that somewhere else and it works 100%. Kydex is addictive for sure and the best part is it's CHEAP. Good luck! |
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USA
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Posted: 12/8/2009 9:37:48 PM EDT
[#10]
How do you keep the kydex from curling up? I put a sheet in the oven (275 for 10 min) and it rolled up like a newspaper. I had to use a few half-inch drive sockets on each corner to flaten it out.
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Posted: 12/8/2009 10:15:35 PM EDT
[#11]
That is W A Y too long. If you piece is rolling or shrinking you either have the temp too high or its been in there too long.
Mine usually takes less than 2 minutes sometimes ~1 and it is just a little less floppy than a piece of sliced cheese. |
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USA
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Posted: 12/9/2009 5:55:09 PM EDT
[#12]
Originally Posted By millsusaf:
That is W A Y too long. If you piece is rolling or shrinking you either have the temp too high or its been in there too long. Mine usually takes less than 2 minutes sometimes ~1 and it is just a little less floppy than a piece of sliced cheese. Ahhh. Thanks. At least kydex is forgiving––it still worked just fine. I'll keep a closer eye on it next time. Thanks. |
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USA
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Posted: 12/17/2009 9:41:01 PM EDT
[#13]
Just freaking great. Thanks, AR15.com, for showing me something else addicting.
My first one. Didn't turn out too bad, I think. 
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Posted: 12/17/2009 9:44:08 PM EDT
[#14]
It looks great! Definitely something to be proud of, especially for a 1st version. Keep up the good work.
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USA
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Posted: 12/22/2009 8:00:13 PM EDT
[#15]
This shit is like crack...I can't stop.
IWB holster for my 1911 
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Posted: 12/31/2009 7:51:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dphill]
[#16]
Here's my effort
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MI, USA
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Posted: 12/31/2009 9:54:56 PM EDT
[#17]
Hey guys - haven't looked in this thread for awhile and finally did tonight. I see that the link I posted for the free kydex sheet is no longer working - looks like those that tried received small 2x4 samples. I wanted to let those that received know not to throw them away (yeah right, like a bunch of preppers would ever throw anything away). Anyway, those should be pretty close to the perfect size for lanyard attachments.
Find yourself a piece of scrap wood approximately the thickness of a belt (a tad larger is ideal). Fold the kydex over the scrap wood to for a loop that will slide over your belt and then pop a kydex rivet in it to hold it together and act as a place to attach a lanyard. You'll never lose a pocket knife again. They also come in handy for attaching things to molle gear |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/31/2009 10:39:03 PM EDT
[#18]
Nice sheath dphill
Looks really good. |
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Posted: 1/1/2010 6:04:14 AM EDT
[#19]
Up, just ordered a few starter items. Going to give it a try.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/3/2010 8:56:49 PM EDT
[#20]
Originally Posted By telephoneman:
Here's a few things I've been playing with http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010401.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010404.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010407.jpg Not the greatest, or most innovative, but it is enjoyable to wear what you make. more pics of your owb holster! i like the idea of cutting slots in it for the belt to go through...seems like it would be stronger then clips or loops... |
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Posted: 1/5/2010 3:11:36 PM EDT
[#21]
Round two...
I put just a clip on the back of this one... 
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Posted: 1/9/2010 9:03:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: topknot]
[#22]
Bump.
Kydex arrived today. By Monday I will have an IWB made for my CZ75 and Sistema. Will take pics and post here. ETA: Cut out the plywood today but couldn't find any old hinges in the shop, so I'll have to hit the hardware store. |
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Posted: 1/9/2010 9:07:42 PM EDT
[#23]
Originally Posted By topknot: Bump. Kydex arrived today. By Monday I will have an IWB made for my CZ75 and Sistema. Will take pics and post here. awsome, take multiple pics of the process for us |
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MN, USA
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Posted: 1/10/2010 11:55:58 AM EDT
[#24]
Anyone have any more pictures of the holsters they made for revolvers? I'm thinking of making (not sure I want to take the plunge quite yet) a VERY high ride (think waistband clip by the muzzle) OWB for a J frame for my dad who's having health problems and can't draw from some of the lower holsters. What I'm worried about is the holster "leaning out" from his body since I would be putting the clip at the very bottom. Do you think a thicker kydex would stiffen the holster so it doesn't lean out?
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Posted: 1/10/2010 1:04:31 PM EDT
[#25]
I got a sheet of Kydex from a knifemaking supply place and made a nice sheath for a knife that did not have one. I found the instructions on line, and IMO they were pretty easy to follow.
I'll add this, since this is the survival forum. Kydex is used in manny applications and should be pretty easy to find in a SHTF situation. The most common application I'm familiar with is vehicle trim and interior components. I'm pretty sure the inside of the hatch of our Toyota Sienna is 1/8" Kydex, or a very similar thermoplastic. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/10/2010 5:56:01 PM EDT
[#26]
Originally Posted By MattNificent:
Originally Posted By telephoneman:
Here's a few things I've been playing with http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010401.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010404.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010407.jpg Not the greatest, or most innovative, but it is enjoyable to wear what you make. more pics of your owb holster! i like the idea of cutting slots in it for the belt to go through...seems like it would be stronger then clips or loops... Sorry, just saw this post. I'll try to get more pics in a day or two |
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Posted: 1/12/2010 8:25:20 AM EDT
[#27]
Here of some of my recent mag holders. The leather backed one is IWB and the other is OWB. The leather version does tilt but only slightly (maybe 5-15 degrees). I wasn't happy with my other IWB kydex only mag holster as the mags pinched my skin when seated, slapping some leather on the back cured that issue.
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Posted: 1/12/2010 2:05:04 PM EDT
[#28]
Anyone tried Vaccuforming for making stuff?
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/12/2010 5:53:44 PM EDT
[#29]
Here ya go Matt:
Haven't had a chance to work with anything thicker than .06 yet, but I can already see that the thinner stuff molds sharper and with less pressure. |
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Posted: 1/12/2010 9:36:56 PM EDT
[#30]
What size rivets are you using for the .06 material? The #8-8s?
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Posted: 1/12/2010 9:57:10 PM EDT
[#31]
Originally Posted By telephoneman:
Here ya go Matt: http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010448.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010449-1.jpg Haven't had a chance to work with anything thicker than .06 yet, but I can already see that the thinner stuff molds sharper and with less pressure. Does the edges of the cuts cut into your belt? |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/12/2010 10:12:14 PM EDT
[#32]
Originally Posted By millsusaf:
Originally Posted By telephoneman:
Here ya go Matt: http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010448.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010449-1.jpg Haven't had a chance to work with anything thicker than .06 yet, but I can already see that the thinner stuff molds sharper and with less pressure. Does the edges of the cuts cut into your belt? Not at all... It's hard to see, but I formed the slots so the edges are laying fairly parallel to the belt. Also, I took a pencil torch and softened the edges. |
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Posted: 1/12/2010 10:35:51 PM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By telephoneman:
Originally Posted By millsusaf:
Originally Posted By telephoneman:
Here ya go Matt: http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010448.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t73/telephoneman_photos/P1010449-1.jpg Haven't had a chance to work with anything thicker than .06 yet, but I can already see that the thinner stuff molds sharper and with less pressure. Does the edges of the cuts cut into your belt? Not at all... It's hard to see, but I formed the slots so the edges are laying fairly parallel to the belt. Also, I took a pencil torch and softened the edges. Awesome, I might give that a try. Thanks |
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Posted: 1/12/2010 11:17:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WILSON]
[#34]
I wish I would've known so many people were interested in working with this stuff...
Last year we had to panel several rooms (two trauma units, some big-shot's office, and one dissection lab) with this stuff at Rush Presbyterian Medical Center in Chicago. We used just over seventy sheets of 60" x 96" x .125" beige, white, and grey Kydex® (I tried talking the hospital "project manager" into using some black. No joy  ).
The waste ratio was very high because of all the cut-outs ( ± 20% at least!); I even threw several whole sheets away (at $228 a sheet - our price, THAT HURT!). Never thought of asking here. .125" is kinda thick to work with, and I didn't think any ARFCOMERS would be interested in beige & light grey Kydex. It might've been good just to practice with though (maybe good for heavier-duty stuff like ATV rifle scabbards and whatnot). If I ever have to use the PITA stuff again, I'll make sure I ask here first (?). |
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Posted: 1/12/2010 11:23:21 PM EDT
[#35]
.
There's always somebody who wants stuff people would otherwise throw away. 2 years ago a member in Dallas posted about big pieces of styrofoam that his company was throwing away. Naturally, I couldn't use them (or store them) then, but I sure could use them now and I don't remember enough details to see if they still discard such items... |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/13/2010 10:16:02 AM EDT
[#36]
Originally Posted By Delbaeth:
What size rivets are you using for the .06 material? The #8-8s? I'll look and edit if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure it's the #6-6's. That should work for fastening 2 pieces of .060. If you fasten 3 or more thicknesses together, it will take a #6-9 or #8-8 or 9. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/13/2010 3:04:17 PM EDT
[#37]
what do you do about a channel for the front sight?
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Posted: 1/13/2010 3:16:07 PM EDT
[#38]
Originally Posted By MattNificent:
what do you do about a channel for the front sight? Pencil, dowel rod, pretty much anything round or square'ish you like. Tape it to the gun and then form the kydex over it. If you use two separate pieces (a top and bottom) you typically don't really need a channel as it will naturally form it's own....this isn't always the case though. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/13/2010 4:18:02 PM EDT
[#39]
Originally Posted By MattNificent:
what do you do about a channel for the front sight? I use dowel rods also. I find a diameter a little larger than my front sight height, and notch it to fit against the front sight. Then I notch the other end to fit inside the rear sight notch. Add one piece of painter's tape (doesn't leave adhesive behind), and the dowel is "locked in". Once I've cut a dowel for a specific model, I label it and can reuse it later. |
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Posted: 1/13/2010 4:26:33 PM EDT
[#40]
what is the difference in the rivet #?
And has anyone else tried vacuum forming? |
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Posted: 1/13/2010 6:31:09 PM EDT
[#41]
Originally Posted By telephoneman:
Originally Posted By MattNificent:
what do you do about a channel for the front sight? I use dowel rods also. I find a diameter a little larger than my front sight height, and notch it to fit against the front sight. Then I notch the other end to fit inside the rear sight notch. Add one piece of painter's tape (doesn't leave adhesive behind), and the dowel is "locked in". Once I've cut a dowel for a specific model, I label it and can reuse it later. That is exactly the way I plan to do it. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/13/2010 6:40:32 PM EDT
[#42]
Originally Posted By MOS2111:
what is the difference in the rivet #? And has anyone else tried vacuum forming? The first # denotes diameter, which should be about the same as #6 or #8 screws. The second # is length, but I would have to measure to make the #'s mean anything. I haven't tried it, but I saw a post on a forum where a guy made a vacuum table, and formed a large sheet with a shop-vac. If you have access to such equipment, give it a try and let us know how it works out. |
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Posted: 1/13/2010 8:00:08 PM EDT
[#43]
The #6 rivets are 3/16 outside diameter (i.e. require a 3/16 hole) and inner diameter is sized for #6 screws.
#8 is 1/4 OD and #8 screws ID. They come in different lengths depending on thickness of materiel you want to fasten. What drove my question is that my Raven uses #8s but is 0.060 thick Kydex. BUT they don't make #8 rivets for 0.060 material (doubled up being 0.120 obviously). The shortest they sell for #8 is the -8 which is recommended for 0.080 (thus 0.160 doubled) material. Rivets are not an all or nothing affair so hoping someone pops up RE: rolling the -8s down 0.040 more. Anyways, we'll see. I ordered the #8-8s and will give it a whirl with the 0.060 material. Also ordered 0.080 and one sheet of 0.125 to make the belt loops from. Ordered last night, shipped today. 2-3 day USPS Priority for only $1 more. Weekend project!  As a first project I'm going to see if I can replicate my Raven Concealment.Also plan on vacuum bagging with a foam support and smoothing the edges after cutting with a pencil torch. All suggestions from here so if it turns out like crap, I'll blame you guys!!  |
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Posted: 1/13/2010 8:38:55 PM EDT
[#44]
Originally Posted By Delbaeth:
The #6 rivets are 3/16 outside diameter (i.e. require a 3/16 hole) and inner diameter is sized for #6 screws. #8 is 1/4 OD and #8 screws ID. They come in different lengths depending on thickness of materiel you want to fasten. What drove my question is that my Raven uses #8s but is 0.060 thick Kydex. BUT they don't make #8 rivets for 0.060 material (doubled up being 0.120 obviously). The shortest they sell for #8 is the -8 which is recommended for 0.080 (thus 0.160 doubled) material. Rivets are not an all or nothing affair so hoping someone pops up RE: rolling the -8s down 0.040 more. Anyways, we'll see. I ordered the #8-8s and will give it a whirl with the 0.060 material. Also ordered 0.080 and one sheet of 0.125 to make the belt loops from. Ordered last night, shipped today. 2-3 day USPS Priority for only $1 more. Weekend project! As a first project I'm going to see if I can replicate my Raven Concealment.
Also plan on vacuum bagging with a foam support and smoothing the edges after cutting with a pencil torch. All suggestions from here so if it turns out like crap, I'll blame you guys!!
I have spoken with the owners of Raven at a gun show, in fact even sold them some ammo. I was told that they searched long and hard for American sourced hardware and that when they found them they had to order millions. It wouldn't surprise me one bit if they didn't have their's specially made.
I'll bet a $1 the stuff we get from the knife kit resellers is made in China. That could be the reason for the differing lengths. |
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USA
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Posted: 1/15/2010 8:31:00 PM EDT
[#45]
Here are the two most recent products of my new time-consuming hobby.
A DOH-type for a 92FS 
And an IWB for a single stack
Making stuff is neat. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 1/23/2010 4:46:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TobyLazur]
[#46]
Originally Posted By bmw20:
Hey guys - haven't looked in this thread for awhile and finally did tonight. I see that the link I posted for the free kydex sheet is no longer working - looks like those that tried received small 2x4 samples. I wanted to let those that received know not to throw them away (yeah right, like a bunch of preppers would ever throw anything away). Anyway, those should be pretty close to the perfect size for lanyard attachments. Find yourself a piece of scrap wood approximately the thickness of a belt (a tad larger is ideal). Fold the kydex over the scrap wood to for a loop that will slide over your belt and then pop a kydex rivet in it to hold it together and act as a place to attach a lanyard. You'll never lose a pocket knife again. They also come in handy for attaching things to molle gear got any pictures of attaching to molle? This is my main interest for making my own stuff out of kydex, but the Molle-lok pieces are pretty pricy at $3.50 a piece. Also, where are you all getting your rivet/eyelet/gromet dies? I looked at harbor freight and they said they had them, but couldn't find them. |
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Posted: 1/23/2010 7:47:54 PM EDT
[#47]
Do you guys "bake your Kydex in a basement, or do you do it in an area with more ventilation?
I have a small window in my basement workshop but, well, don't really care to get cancer if it's carcinogenic... 
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/23/2010 8:47:50 PM EDT
[#48]
I have been heating mine in a two-car garage, with a window open. I don't know if it's real smart, but it works for me.
I will say that if you are getting obvious off-gassing, you're running your oven too hot. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/23/2010 8:50:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: telephoneman]
[#49]
Originally Posted By TobyLazur:
got any pictures of attaching to molle? This is my main interest for making my own stuff out of kydex, but the Molle-lok pieces are pretty pricy at $3.50 a piece. Also, where are you all getting your rivet/eyelet/gromet dies? I looked at harbor freight and they said they had them, but couldn't find them. I haven't worked with molle, but I'm interested in a response as well. I got my rivet dies and stuff from here: knifekits.com |
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Posted: 1/23/2010 9:09:58 PM EDT
[#50]
I do my kydex forming in the garage with no real ventalation besides the gap around the garage door. As long as you are not getting the kydex too hot there shouldn't be any fumes coming off anyway.
I just received the MOLLE-Loks I ordered. I haven't gotten a chance to mess with them yet but plan too soon. I'll post pics when I have something.....course I'll have to by something MOLLE in the mean time to attach them too. hahaha |
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