ETA: Never mind my issue below. I made the PTZ camera work simply by hooking it to the NVR with a Cat5 cable. But it was extremely hard to control the PTZ movement and the image on my PC monitor and cell phone was VERY herky jerky and pixelating.

I am going to return the PTZ camera to Reolink if I can.  They are suppose to take it back within so many days---satisfaction guaranteed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

I just bought and set up a Reolink RLK8-410B2D2 (5MP Super HD) PoE with 4 cameras.  It seems good.

But I also bought a PTZ camera (Reolink RLC-423) and I am in the process of installing it.

Reolink's literature did not explain the fact that the PTZ camera needs 22 watts of power and that the PoE power supply from the NVR over the Cat5 cable cannot supply that.

The PTZ camera came with a 110-volt plug-in power supply (plugs into a normal A/C 110-v outlet) with a short pigtail output wire and a jack that plugs into the PTZ camera and supplies 12 volts to the camera.

All the other cameras get their power over the Cat5 wires from the NVR.

See images below. The first page is from Reolink.  The second page is from a reviewer.

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Attached File


I do not understand the yellow highlighted text.

I understand that the PTZ camera cannot simply be powered over the Cat5 wire from the NVR like the non-PTZ cameras because it requires more power.

The PTZ camera requires 22 watts at 12 volts.

The little power supply that came with the NVR and 4 regular PoE cameras does not put out 22 watts.  And it's output into the NVR is 48 volts.

But I do not know how to do what they say or what they mean.

Can somebody explain how I am supposed to hook up the PTZ camera to (a) the NVR, and (b) a power supply?

My NVR (and the PoE cameras) are plugged into an uninterruptable power supply . . . but the PTZ camera will be mounted 100 feet away.  So I worry about having power to the PTZ camera during a power outage.

Thanks.

PS: Reolink guidance sucks.

Has anybody figured out a way to prevent spiders from building webs in front of the cameras?

Their web triggers motion detection recording.

I read (but have not tried) the following:

1. Sweep the camera weekly (no good: they build webs every night).
2. Put flea collars around the cameras.
3. Spray the surface of the camera (not the lens) with silicon spray.
4. Use dome cameras (my cameras are mostly bullet type).
5. Disable night motion recording (yeah---wonderful solution).

They do it to domes too. I haven't found a good way to keep them from doing it either.

Turn off IR lighting on the camera and use lighting (IR or full spectrum) from a different source.

I'm sure you know this, but they build their webs there because bugs are attracted to the light from your camera.  Have you read this thread?  There's a lot of discussion about the preferred way to set up lighting for cameras.

Yeah, I knew why they do it (to catch bugs that are attracted to the IR light).

Thanks. That remote lighting solution makes sense---but will make me pull more wires for power!

I got a supplemental IR light today. I will give it a try.

I have not read all 72 pages in this thread, but I have searched it some and Googled some.

There was some good info early on in this thread about IR remotes.  Ones that don't look like any sort of light source, but they blast IR.

There's a table of contents in the first post.  Check out the pages that mention illuminators.

I bought one of these and it is basically useless:

Attached File


Do NOT believe the 100 ft. claim. It is useful only out to about 35 feet.

Great! Thanks. I just went back and looked at the posts on IR illuminators (on page 1).

There is some great info and examples there, but I wonder if things have improved since those were posted in 2009.

None of the night time IR supplemental lighting photos impressed me much. And no way I'm spending $500 or $600 on several RayMax 50 IR illuminators.

Good reference. I will look some more.  Thanks for the feedback.

Bump

Would it break any laws if I point a surveillance camera at the public street that is about 75 feet from my house and record vehicles passing by?

I would mount the camera on my front porch and just point it towards the street.

Pretty sure that's going to depend on state laws.  I can't imagine that breaking a law.  I'm contemplating doing the same thing.

In fact, I'm considering trying to rig up a radar gun so that the motion trigger on the camera activates the radar so that I basically have a radar camera.  Caught a school bus going 53 mph down my 20 mph street and the school district doesn't believe me and won't do anything.  

I still learn something every time I read this thread 😁

I have been eye balling the Arlo 2..thing is I am having difficulty learning 2 things:

1) the basic cloud coverage, where there is no charge, can you download the video at any time? I can't think of a reason why I would need more than 7 days if something "happened".
2) do the rechargeable batteries really last 2-6 months..that seems to be the "norm" I have found...seems like "We really don't know how long they last so just say that.." I dont want to be getting on a ladder week.

Also, do I need the cloud? Is there a drive that comes with the system?

My new home in Texas, I dont have an attic, per se, where I can crawl to the soffit and pull wiring around for power and video signal..at the same time, I dont want exterior wires pinned and drill through exterior.

I ended up going with the Arlo 2 pro.

I have 1 hooked up to solar power, the other (front door) I will be able to hard wire for power.

Once I learned the modes and for notifications I was way more happy with the purchase.

The video clarity and the playback is fantastic. I am staying with the 7 day free cloud service.

post some pictures from your cameras

I have been using Hikvision cameras for years.  They are amazing for the $$.  Crystal clear pictures and work all of the time.

Bumpski

Need a replacement system for my shop

I want the poe wires if thats what they call them now and an easy system to set up and see on the phone from home

Need at least 8 cameras and good at night with good to pretty good resolution.

Any ideas on a complete set up with or without monitor?


Costco is nearby but has nothing at thee store

I'd like to find one that isn't useless. It's one of those things that's been bugging me every since I installed my cameras (like 5 yrs ago). Seems every one I look at has shit reviews. You wouldn't think it would be that hard to build a decent IR illuminator.

I've got a bunch as well, but a buddy just installed an Amcrest and is loving it.  I'm considering one as my Hik cameras are starting to exhibit the IR bleed through issues due to the foam ring breaking down.

All that said, apparently hikvision is on the naught list as well:

"The Trump administration has drawn up a list of companies from China that have ties to the country's military, which may lay the groundwork for fresh US sanctions. They include tech giant, Huawei, the video surveillance company, Hikvision, as well as China Mobile and China Telecom, both of which are publicly listed in New York. The document was seen by Reuters on Wednesday. And a US defense official speaking on condition of anonymity confirmed its authenticity, and said the document had been sent to Congress."


https://www.yahoo.com/news/u-says-20-companies-backed-053624227.html

Can anybody point me to an IR illuminator that will give me good, clear night view out to about 100 feet?

My Reolink cameras are great in the daytime and great at night out to about 20 feet.  But I would like to see vehicles at night on the public road that is about 90 to 100 feet from my camera.

I have bought 2 different IR illuminators that were supposed to reach out to 90 feet. Neither did. Both are useless---no better than the light that is built into the camera.

Do you think this one would illuminate out to 100 feet? (It claims to have a 300-ft. range. Lots of reviews say that it is highly prone to failure.)

Attached File

Link

Thanks.

ETA: For the record, these are the useless ones I already bought:

LONNKY LED IR Illuminator Wide Angle 8-LEDs 90 Degree 100Ft IR Infrared Flood Light

And:

Univivi IR Illuminator 90 Degree Wide Angle 8-LEDs IR Infrared Light

I finally am off of 100% battery powered. Hard wired one in and solar panel on the other.

These Arlo's are fantastic. Video and sound are amazing, storage and playback are great.

My setup...I love it -

Synology Network Drive  NAS - Using the Synology security app

5 x Hikvision cams.  4 hardwired to a switch and one wireless.  

I love that 2 NAS drive saves all of my files and I can access it from my iPhone/Mac.  The Synology security cam app is amazing.  I have been running the same cams and NAS with a UPS for 7 years.  Not one issue.  Crystal clear imaging.

What models?

What I am looking for software not tied to a mfg to start playing with my cameras.      Cost of software from Free to oh lets say 300 to drive up to 10 devices.  I think my NAS has an option for camera feed, but I rather check out the hardware and do some playing before I try to upgrade to a semi-real video management system.

But to get my feet wet, I rather do the free versions as a proof of concept.

I have a box full of old IP video cameras that I have collected over the last 6+ years and I figure it was time to start playing with the hardware for real.  Most if not all of the hardware is from Nel without mfg name and some GoSwift that I also bought from Nel.  


What I am looking for is basic software that I can use the IP cameras in a real time mode, configure the hardware, etc.   I need to check out the hardware to see what is working, and is it working good enough to mount mostly to see what is outside while I am stuck inside.   I will run the devices for a few weeks before decided to convert a temp installation to a real one.


OS can be Windows or some sort of Linux/Docker appliance.  I have a access to Red Hat Enterprise if that is a requirement, however, I rather run CentOS.  I  The hardware for the IP camera software will likely not be dedicated, but something running under VMWARE.  

The cameras will be on it's own network IP hardware once I hit about 3 IP cameras setup.  For setup use I will configure wifi links during the installation and check out phase.  My goal is 100% hardwired in for long term use.


So what I am asking just what is out there today for software that supports a whole a different hardware that are all IP based cameras.

P.S.  I have already tried installing some software to get responses back saying your browser is too new....I even when the portable version of Firefox to work around it but the plug-ins won't install.

@bradbn4

Zoneminder is free and has a docker.  Also a free android app called ZM-ninja that gives you mobile access.

Neat; I will have to spin up a VM to check it out.  I was surprised on the quality of the GoSwift  hardware last night while testing it in low light levels.

The GoSwift could make a good - watch this spot device; the hardware seems good.  Low light levels were fine; the dead giveaway glowing ring means it will be spotted in such lighting conditions.

The no name hardware I have I think is Hikvision which is on the hardware support list; but GoSwift is not.

When I installed a surveillance system in my house (16 cameras) and my boat (23 cameras) two to four years ago, it seemed like Axis cameras were leading the pack - and I used them.  I'm about to undergo a ~100 camera setup that's going to stretch out over the next 5 to 7 years.  I'm looking for solid outside performance (with great night capability) and interior capability when needed.  My current cameras are all 4K, and I would like to stay with that level of quality.  I strongly prefer POE due to some environmental constraints, and would like an easy to use interface with wireless (ipad) and TV broadcast integration.  I don't like to say price it not an issue, but I will say price is secondary to performance.  I've been happy with Axis, but understand things change over time.  Is there a compelling reason to go with a different manufacturer?  

For sake of comparison, here are some of the stills I captured with my existing Axis cameras that led to the arrest of someone who boarded our boat in Connecticut a year or so ago.  The top comment when this was posted on the police departments "wanted" page was "why can't banks use cameras like this!"  This is the quality I'm looking for - in up to 100 cameras at a single location.....

I have been playing with some low end 4k cameras.  For night time use I would consider secondary IR source to augment what is built in the camera.
If spider webs are an issue, you might want to check to see if you can turn off the built in IR source and just use the secondary IR for lighting.  

While I enjoy the cheap hardware, there are some compatibility issues with newer browsers that I would say - nope for the sub $100 hardware. (see Nelly's)  I was happy to see how good the cheap cameras are, even the go swift 4k cameras made low indoor light work well.

With the large number of cameras I hope your network can handle it.  If 10gig hardware was cheaper I would say look hard at that solution set. SPF+ support can provide high speed access and some of the fiber connections are not that expensive if you can use pre-made cables.   You will need to run some network load tests to see what infrastructure you will need.  

My guess prob 3+ different installation locations / sites, and a 10 year span that will cause issues if you need to match the same camera at all locations.

As a fun project, I am starting to play with some of the real cheap drone video systems to be used as a low power setup.  This hardware is day use only and at best for the analog stuff 720p is about it to keep the prices at the semi-disposable level.

Some of my IP cameras are sure showing their age - can't configure with the current generation of browsers...

however, when I have been able to get the camera online the results are quite good, esp for the price charged.

Does anyone know if the current 4k cameras from lets say Nel's store played with a recent buy of the go-swift hardware?

I just broke down and picked up two new cameras IP based / 4k "ultra" - but this time no label from Nell

Price wise about a hundred bucks a pop, picked up one dome and one mini bullet style.  Target installation location is prob over the garage door because it is easy to access to support power and a cable run.

Nell did have some discounted versions that are similar looking, but with wide field of view for 70 dollars.  They had a few 2mp at half that price.  Might be worth picking up the hardware if you want to dabble in this tech.

It should be interesting to see if this new hardware is easier to setup than the GoSwift cameras I bought years ago.

One of my tests will be to try and hook up a Raspberry PI to the network to see if I can watch a live stream or configure the cameras with that hardware.

Well; I just received the hardware a few days ago..I was waiting on a POE injector so I can do some testing in my office.

Setup on the current generation seems to be a bit easier using the applications from Neil.  By easier; real simple, no fuss as long as you are running Windows / Mac (I tested only in Windows).  I will try some other software later to see how well it will work in a Linux setup.  

First impression is that the I am not overly impressed on the quality of the video in night mode; the last generation seemed just a tad bit clearer. However, I will need to do some adjustments to to tweak the settings.  With that said, I think the quality is worth the money, but you will not be using the dome camera for quality video chatting.  But then this is not the use (mostly) for said hardware.

I do like the display in the center of the camera in 'lights out mode' seems usable for short distances with some major fade out on the edges.  Most likely this is do to the short distance between the camera and the ceiling or some of the default auto tuning I have configured in the device.   I do have a dedicated IR flood light that will be used to tweak the overall brightness.  This secondary flood light will be useful to help prevent critters from being attracted to the hardware and reduce the hot spot when the object in view is close to the camera.

I do like the fact that during the day it is hard to tell that there are IR lights mounted within the hardware.

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Setting up the hardware so far seems to be a simple task.  The first thing I did was to change the default password and setup a new user ID / password to provide some sort of security.  For the most part this hardware will be on a closed network.  But hackers are going to hack and I rather have some security in place before it gets hooked up.  Once you have that setup I would recommend turning off the default "admin" access to reduce the attack vector to the hardware.

The goal for this hardware is to have fun with it; and setup two or four cameras so I can see outside while working in my basement.  

Right now I am trying to recover an old NAS setup to see if the embedded security applications in the NAS can manage camera controls.

There is some real good info provided by the OP - but it looks like he faded to the gray zone.

I just received my refurbished NAS so now that is an option...The trip to the big city was a royal pain to get a NAS rated drive.  Doing it online retailer I would be waiting a few more weeks and paying 30 more dollars.

The NAS + new drive has tested up and in working order.  Now to take it to the next level of fun.  

Limited POE injector - switch (obtained)
Two test Cameras working (check)
Spare wifi router for local testing (check)
Place to save files to on NAS  (check)
One spare IR eliminator obtained, but not verified working

Software to run cameras in DVR mode - ahh; found a big issue here... :)

(Yeah, I know: It's a dead thread)

I have a Reolink 8 camera POE system (8 cameras and an NVR that accepts 8 cameras plugged in via CAT5 RJ45 plugs).

I would like to add 1 or 2 more cameras, but cannot plug more than 8 cameras directly into the NVR.

I am thinking about connecting 1 or 2 additional cameras to the NVR via a RJ45 (Ethernet Type) switch box like this one:
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I would have to manually switch the camera(s) feeding into the NVR when I wanted to see/record a different camera.

A remote controlled RJ45 (Ethernet Type) switch box would be better, but I don't think that they make one.

I don't think I can use a regular POE switch that simply multiplexes inputs (and includes a separate power supply for connected devices) because my NVR can only "see" and display 8 cameras at the same time.

What do y'all think?

ETA: Reolink kind of answered it for a conventional POE switch, but they did not say what the NVR monitor would show or what it would record on the hard drive:
--------------------------
Q: Can I Add a PoE Switch Between the Reolink PoE Cameras and Reolink PoE NVR

A: The Answer is yes. But we don't recommend to connect in this way. If you have to connect in this way because of the inconvenience to hook multiple wires in the scenes like between two buildings, please make sure do not add more than three cameras into the POE switch and then attach the switch into the PoE port on the NVR.

If you added more than 3 cameras on the one PoE switch and connect the switch to the PoE port on the NVR, the video stream may be delay or freeze.
Attached File

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Would the monitor show (and the hard drive record) an image from each camera:
a. Cycled through each camera at some time interval, or
b. Show all cameras in some kind of split screen view?

Would I still be able to use 7 separate cameras connected to the other 7 ports on the NVR?

I don't know the NVR you are using, but generally speaking a PoE switch is a PoE switch.  Networking wise, each camera is a new item in the network and would be able to function off of the network provided IPs are assigned (Static or DHCP).  The question is can the NVR can connect to more cameras.  While your physical switch option/idea *might* work, I would recommend you find the number of cameras supported by the NVR and limit it to that.  If that isn't enough, upgrade the NVR.

Pretty much this, but I would add you can setup a system using blue iris that would work just as well, scavenge the hard drive from the rio link system to save some money.  

POE switches can be found on amazon in the warehouse at good discounts and if you search an older used dell server would work for a recording box.

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

My Reolink NVR is RLN8-410:
------------------------------------------
Specifications

Video/Audio Input
IP Video Input
PoE IP Camera x 8

Audio Input
Cameras with Built-in Mic

Video/Audio Output
Video Output
VGA, HDMI

Display Resolution
• HDMI: 4096*3072, 3840*2160, 1920*1080, 1440*900, 1280*1024, 1280*720, 1024*768

• VGA: 1920*1080, 1440*900, 1280*1024, 1280*800, 1280*720, 1024*768

Audio output
1-Channel, RCA

Decoding
Video Format
H.264, H.265

Live View/Playback Resolution
4096*3072/3840*2160/2560*1920/2560*1440/2048*1536/2304*1296/1080p/720p

Synchronous Playback
Up to 4 Channels

HDD
SATA
1 x SATA interface (1 x Seagate 2TB HDD included)

External HDD
1 eSATA Interface for HDD

Capacity
Up to 12TB (Max. 6TB capacity for each HDD)

External Interface
USB Interface
2 x USB 2.0

Network Interface
• 1, RJ-45 10/100 Mbps Self-Adaptive Ethernet Interface for LAN/WAN

• 8, RJ-45 10/100 Mbps Self-Adaptive PoE Ethernet Interface for IP Camera

PoE
Max. Power Per Port
25W

Supported Standard
IEEE 802.3af/at

Network
Network Protocols
HTTP, TCP/IP, UDP, DHCP, P2P, UPNP, RTSP, SMTP, SSL/TLS, DNS, DDNS, NTP, FTP

Browsers Supported
Edge, Firefox, Chrome, Safari

OS Supported
PC: Windows, Mac OS; SmartPhone: iOS, Android

Max. User Access
20 users (1 admin account & 19 user accounts); supports up to 12 simultaneous video streams (10 substreams & 2 mainstreams)

Link

Does anybody have a separate IR illuminator that is more powerful than the ones that claim to reach 100 meters (328 feet)?

I have bought 3 and it's true that they illuminate trees and such out to 100 meters, but none of them light up objects around 75 feet from the security cameras brightly enough to see objects clearly when I zoom in.

(Yeah, I need better cameras.)

But the 100 meter illuminators run around $20 to $70 dollars or so.

Do I just need to spend $400 for a more powerful illuminator?

There does not seem to be many in between the $70 ("residential") ones and the $400 ("commercial") ones. And I'm not sure a $400 one would do what I need.

Google search results: Link

Thoughts?

@NRA_guy

I have several of the ones like you had a photo of (about $50 or so) and they work fantastic for me until they fail. They’re also a big hassle to run power for. I think you’ve answered your own question - you need better cameras. I look at the lux rating on the specs and look for ones that need very little light (low lux). I’d rather spend money on a good camera versus spending money on high end lighting to make a low end camera work.

Here’s a quick photo from a walk-about the other night. There was no moon and this camera does NOT have an external IR illuminator. The beginning of the bridge is about 100’ from the camera, the trees on the other side about 225’ from the camera. Im able to see detail quite well all the way out. With that said, when a car comes across the bridge with headlights on I’m 100% blinded.

Thanks @BlackFox

Part of my problem is the fact that I can only mount POE cameras located perpendicular to the street which is about 75 feet from my house.

I cannot mount a POE camera near the street; so that they would be viewing cars coming towards a camera.  So at night, the cameras have a slower "shutter speed" and vehicles move 3 or 4 feet in each frame. The vehicles are a blur.  (In the daytime, "shutter speed" is faster because the sun light is brighter, and I get great shots of passing cars.)

I live in a nice neighborhood on a paved dead-end street. Cars are going maybe 30 MPH. This is one of the slower vehicles:
Attached File


I may have to mount a battery-powered camera in one of my trees located out near the edge of the street. I just hate to deal with batteries/solar cells.

I tried a couple of cameras with optical zoom, but they were no better.

Hikvision and Dahua camera importation has been banned

The Federal Communications Commission on Friday announced it has adopted new rules banning communications equipment from several Chinese companies from being imported to or sold in the United States, due to the “unacceptable risk to national security.”

The rules prohibit equipment and services from Chinese electronics companies Huawei Technologies and ZTE Corporation, as well as two-way radio maker Hytera Communications, and connected-camera providers Hangzhou Hikvision Digital Technology and Dahua Technology, as well as their subsidiaries and affiliates.

Link

OST for future reading. Older Hikvision CCTV needs upgrading and I need to refresh my knowledge on what's happening in industry.

I have a Reolink 8-camera system that's about 5 years old. I have added supplemental IR lights for night recording.

Can anybody tell me what the heck the following settings mean and what I should set them at for best night time (black & white) motion recording?

Motion at night is always a blur---even when I view recordings frame by frame. I don't believe that I get 30 frames per second at night. It seems to be closer to 10 frames per second, and cars and people move pretty far in 1/10th of a second.

Is "sub stream" (7 fps) what I get at night?

These are the default settings from Reolink:
Attached File

Sub stream is likely referring to RTSP or other type of secondary service.

Some cameras allow for multiple streams of data to be sent from the camera, the recording stream and then viewing streams.

Thanks @KillyMcGee

I guess I should have Googled it before posting. I found the following (but no guidance on what I should set it at):
-----------------
What is the difference between the main stream and the sub stream?

Sub-stream: is the secondary video feed. Sub-stream provides a lower quality video stream, and is typically used to stream video to computers, smartphones, or tablets over the Internet.
------------------

So, it's not for night vision at lower resolution. It's for viewing video on things other than the NVR monitor.

Which would be better for a plate reader camera? Visible or IR?