wtf

The only Hik domes I have are the 3mp... and the picture is pretty daggone good.  5mp would even be an improvement.

Add it as an ONVIF camera, under "unknown brand"

You could just check your router to see what IP addresses your DHCP server has loaned out, and look for the device you don't recognize.  Alternatively, you could do a ping sweep in a Command Window, or wireshark it to see where the traffic is going (IP address-wise).

I sometimes use the latter method to see what kind of stuff the camera is sending/receiving, and whether login/pw credentials are sent as plaintext (It's bad security design, but that actually saved me one time where I had forgotten the password for the camera  )

"Add camera"

"Ip camera, DVR, NVR"

Under type select "unknown brand" (it's the second choice on the list) in the top field, and "ONVIF" on the lower field

Then enter IP address, and login/pw

ETA:  that camera didn't come with a config or "IP utility?"  

Are you on android?

ETA:  and are you sure you're using IP Cam Viewer?  Can you post a screenshot?

Ah, I hate to tell you this, but I have NO idea what software you're using there.  The "IP Cam Viewer" that I use is strictly a mobile (eg.  iOS/Android) product... it doesn't run on a desktop PC.

So it's time to revisit a project from back on Page 36 of this thread (hard to believe it's been five years+ since I did that particular project).  

In that installation, we were using some Ubiquiti wireless hardware to connect a couple of outbuildings to a central building over wifi, to avoid having to jackhammer a huge amount of concrete, and trench a few hundred yards.   It cost a couple of hundred bucks worth of hardware, but saved multiple THOUSANDs of dollars in trenching/jackhammering/etc.

We used these enclosure bridges to connect the cameras... you may recall this rig:



They've been running flawlessly for the last five years...  almost.

You might also remember me writing this:



Weeeelll....  Mother Nature always bats last, as it were.  

The trees inbetween the main building and one of the outbuildings have grown... a LOT... and forget pruning... they haven't been touched.  They're at least 10-12 feet taller/bigger than they were when I initially installed that 2.4Ghz bridge... and have seriously degraded the wifi signal.  There is a flowering Magnolia tree that has grown up-and-out, and developed quite the dense canopy... and it's now squarely in the center of the Fresnel zone, leading to drop-outs in the video link.  You cannot even see the remote bridge any more:

Here's an example of a Fresnel Zone calculation for a 900Mhz bridge at 100 yards:





And speaking of 900Mhz, that's exactly what we decided to do.  Ubiquiti has a line of Ethernet bridges/APs in exactly that frequency band, and their Locostation M900 is what we chose.  The 900Mhz band penetrates through foliage MUCH better than 2.4Ghz, which tends to be scattered and degraded by the leaves, and their water content... and Magnolia trees have very dense, waxy leaves.  The downside of 900Mhz hardware is that the Fresnel zone is larger in the center than shorter-wavelength bands (like 2.4 or 5.8Ghz).  In this case, both antennas are elevated, so the Fresnel zone diameter shouldn't be a huge limitation:





And you may remember this Access Point?   The remote bridge was connecting to this PicoStation.  This one is 2.4Ghz, so the 900Mhz bridge needs something different to talk to...  (we're leaving this in place; there is another camera, on another remote bridge, and that one is operating just fine)




To Be Continued...

I pretty much do that too.  

Maybe guys who do this professionally can look at specs and see the camera image in their mind's eye... but I can't.  There is really no substitute for putting up the camera (or holding it up, connected to a laptop on the paint-shelf of your ladder) and looking at the picture.  I've used lens calculators and planning tools... and it's always a LITTLE bit different looking through the cam.

There is no substitute for looking through it first... just my opinion.

Anyway, back to the tree problem.

Here is what I was up against:






Magnolias are dense trees... and on top of that, there was some sort of evergreen Oak right behind it.


Here is the box with the new bridge installed (held in place with a cable tie).   It still fits inside that NEMA enclosure, and we're getting good signal through the trees.





The extra white wire you see there is for a sensor I'm planning on adding.  





I also changed out that PoE injector for a standard switch (which takes 12vdc), and opted to power the camera directly off the same 12vdc that's powering everything else in that box.   This was done because another camera is planned for that structure, and the PoE injector itself only had a single port.





And at the access-point end of things, here is the new antenna.  See the little black rectangle on the right?  That's a stealth 900Mhz antenna... very inconspicuous.  It connects directly to a RP-SMA antenna jack on the M900, and that external jack is able to be enabled/disabled in software.  




And it's giving five bars.  

IP is cheap enough now that there is seldom a justification to do analog... The minor cost savings with analog is not worth the huge drop in image quality.

There is some tech out that sends megapixel streams over coax... but if you're starting from scratch, just run Cat6

Your avatar is mesmerizing.

Well?  Better pics?  

OK... so to expand on an earlier post.  We're going to be adding a camera to an existing installation.  

Recall this box:






It had previously been the wireless link for this Mobotix camera (later changed out for a Vivotek FE8172V after lightning took out the Mobotix camera):  This is the one we changed out for a 900Mhz Ubiquiti link on page 109 after tree growth rendered the 2.4Ghz link ineffective.  








The Vivotek is nice... but it doesn't provide QUITE enough coverage on the other side of this gazebo (where there is a parking area for a small park).   A decision was made to mount another camera on the other side, along with some sensor-based alert capability to alert when people are trespassing or "hanging out" after the park closes.  

So the camera is one of these:




And the sensor is an SRX-360 from Crow Engineering (a favorite of mine):








One of the things you'll notice in the above picture is that this is a dual-mode sensor.  The central sensor element on that board is a quad pyroelectric sensor (Passive infrared, or PIR), and the large square piece in the upper-right is a microwave sensor (note the etched antennas).  This particular sensor has the ability to use AND/OR logic, based on how you set the jumpers on that board.  You can not only set sensitivities, but you can set the sensor to alert when infrared AND microwave are triggered... OR it can be triggered by either one alone (hence the AND/OR logic).   The sensitivity is adjustable grossly with jumpers (to high or low), or finely-adjusted with the blue/yellow potentiometers.  

The base allows multiple screw-down connectors, which provide power to the main sensor body through metal studs that lock into place when the sensor is mounted...  Pretty nifty design if you ask me.




And you can see that the detection range increases the higher you mount the device.  We're mounting it on a ten-foot ceiling, so the detection range is as annotated below (probably a 15-meter-in-diameter circle).  You'll notice the PIR reaches out further than the microwave sensor... so if you wanted to pick something up on the very edge of your detection range, you might want to set this on "OR" logic (this one is set on AND logic, to minimize false alarms).






We had to run conduit to the other side of this gazebo, so we used regular 1/2".  We could have used bigger, but we're only doing a single run of cat-6, and some regular four-conductor alarm wire (two conductors for power to the sensor/camera, and two wires for the alarm trigger connection back to the Vivotek)




That 1/2 inch conduit body you see going into the wall allows pulling access to the rest of the conduit run.  Using a 1" hole-saw and routing/filing out the hole just a TINY bit bigger allows that conduit body to plug right into the wood (that's actually painted hardy board you're seeing).  This is all low-voltage so conduit isn't exactly needed, but I hate leaving wires unprotected.  




Here's the far end... same setup as the proximal end:




You can see that those little access panels allow you to get into the conduit, and fish/pull your wires.  This run was short enough that pushing the wires was actually doable.  






We brought the wires down through that hardy board, and mounted the sensor/camera





Note the three LEDs on the left side of that sensor?  Those are useful for walk-testing, and denote the following:

Green:  PIR triggered
Yellow:  Microwave triggered
Red:  Sensor tripped (and signal sent to panel/camera)



Here they are both mounted, and the LEDs disabled.




Here's the view through that Hikvision camera:

I use the mobotix stuff... that's all built-in.

New DVR build in the Safes and Home Security forum:

Link

A regular analog camera probably doesn't have the inputs to do audio.

You'd have to do a PTT system of some kind.

Some of the Swann systems at Costco are rebranded Hikvision.  

This one, for instance