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Posted: 4/24/2017 4:42:28 PM EDT
Just got a trailer boat with a 1995 5.7L Mercruiser.
The original motor has less than 400 hours, which in itself is a bit of a concern, but it checks out fine.
It was used on Lake Mead and the old couple stayed on it on the weekends. It was never in salt water.
It has raw water cooling, and since I will be using it in fresh and salt water, so I am planning on putting a closed cooling system on it.
The out drive is a Bravo 2.
I will read the manual when the boat is delivered.
I've never had an I/O.
Tell me about preventive maintenance, any modifications that may be nice and generally anything important to know.
Link Posted: 4/24/2017 6:12:56 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Just got a trailer boat with a 1995 5.7L Mercruiser.
The original motor has less than 400 hours, which in itself is a bit of a concern, but it checks out fine.
It was used on Lake Mead and the old couple stayed on it on the weekends. It was never in salt water.
It has raw water cooling, and since I will be using it in fresh and salt water, so I am planning on putting a closed cooling system on it.
The out drive is a Bravo 2.
I will read the manual when the boat is delivered.
I've never had an I/O.
Tell me about preventive maintenance, any modifications that may be nice and generally anything important to know.
View Quote


Western lakes have a great deal of mineralization in the water. Can be worse than saltwater. I wouldn't worry about 400 hrs. Of more concern is what is the condition of the boot between the gimbal housing and transom plate ? The boot can rot and split between the folds, and leak. That will take out the yoke, ujoints and gimbal bearing. Cange the gearlube once a year. When was the last time the impeller was changed ? Once a year. The gears on the Bravo are really hard, you can't mark them with a file. If they run low on gear lube they will get so hot that they will roll themselves flat. An easy way to check water infiltration is drain some gear lube,if it's in, there water will run out first. Don't worry about closed cooling. Just flush with fresh water after every salt trip. Your manifold and exhaust elbows are all cast iron. You can put a hose on it and check the general flow, if it looks weak, the elbows may be corroded, restricting outflow.
Link Posted: 4/24/2017 7:20:55 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Western lakes have a great deal of mineralization in the water. Can be worse than saltwater. I wouldn't worry about 400 hrs. Of more concern is what is the condition of the boot between the gimbal housing and transom plate ? The boot can rot and split between the folds, and leak. That will take out the yoke, ujoints and gimbal bearing. Cange the gearlube once a year. When was the last time the impeller was changed ? Once a year. The gears on the Bravo are really hard, you can't mark them with a file. If they run low on gear lube they will get so hot that they will roll themselves flat. An easy way to check water infiltration is drain some gear lube,if it's in, there water will run out first. Don't worry about closed cooling. Just flush with fresh water after every salt trip. Your manifold and exhaust elbows are all cast iron. You can put a hose on it and check the general flow, if it looks weak, the elbows may be corroded, restricting outflow.
View Quote
Good info. Thanks.
The hours worried me because the boat has been used so little. Gaskets and such drying out.
Link Posted: 4/25/2017 1:38:34 PM EDT
[#3]
Check out my "So you want to buy a used boat" thread.

Like mentioned above, the rubber bellows between the gimbal housing and drive "bell housing" should be replaced about every 5 years.

When we do this we also replace all the rubber components back there including the water hose, oil hose, shift cable bellows along with a new

shift cable and trim senders.

The labor isn't much more than just replacing the u-joint bellows because you already have it all taken apart for the u-joint bellows

so it makes sense to do it all.

Wow, a Bravo 2 on a trailerable boat? How big is the boat? Usually B2's are used on larger cabin cruisers and house boats.

<----Boat mechanic.
Link Posted: 4/26/2017 3:49:11 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Check out my "So you want to buy a used boat" thread.

Like mentioned above, the rubber bellows between the gimbal housing and drive "bell housing" should be replaced about every 5 years.

When we do this we also replace all the rubber components back there including the water hose, oil hose, shift cable bellows along with a new

shift cable and trim senders.

The labor isn't much more than just replacing the u-joint bellows because you already have it all taken apart for the u-joint bellows

so it makes sense to do it all.

Wow, a Bravo 2 on a trailerable boat? How big is the boat? Usually B2's are used on larger cabin cruisers and house boats.

<----Boat mechanic.
View Quote
Thanks for the advice. I was hoping you'd show up, I couldn't find the other thread.
It's a very well kept, fresh water only,  Bayliner 2452 that an old couple couldn't handle anymore.
I was looking for a trailerable boat you could fish a bit out of, cruise some, sleep and take a crap in.
My family had a 28' Bayliner Contessa for about 20 years and besides a Penta throwing a rod one night off Bayou La Batre, Al, it was a lot of fun and never a problem.
Link Posted: 4/26/2017 6:55:02 PM EDT
[#5]
If you are going to go into salt water, make sure the Mercathode system is working and you have the correct anodes on the drive and trim tabs (if equipped).

Anode selection is important for corrosion resistance. Make sure all the bonding wires on the drive and through hull

hardware is in place and corrosion free.

You may need to step up in pitch if you are going to be close or at sea level. Lake Mead is at about 1200 feet and may have been re-propped to compensate.

Just note the wide open throttle RPM's when it's all trimmed up on plane and compare to the WOT rating on the flame arrestor.

If it's above, increase the prop pitch, below you need to decrease the pitch.
Link Posted: 5/15/2017 6:58:50 PM EDT
[#6]
Got the boat last Saturday night and spent 3 solid days going over it before our trip to Grand Isle (La Gulf).
After looking it over and running it in the driveway, I took it for a test run.
The motor started and shifted well but heated up a minute or two after leaving the dock. I did let it warm up before casting off....
The impeller in the sea water pump needed to be replaced. I should have done it preventively. It looked like it was dry rotted.
I googled all I could about changing the impeller, which you cannot see.When I was half way through, it dawned on me that it wasn't a bad job if you removed the pump pulley and mechanical fuel pump and then removed the whole pump assembly. Nowhere on line does anyone say that. I will be joining the BOA site to post my technique.
I did run it in the back bay and then in the Gulf a couple of times but since I had just got it a few days before and I don't have a kicker yet, I didn't stop and start it.
Of course, everyone thought I was too paranoid. Not so.
I came home yesterday and went to rinse the engine out on the garden hose and the starter gear will not come out to engage the flywheel.
I tried hitting it with a brass hammer, etc. I guess I'll be replacing that this week.
Besides the trim tabs not working, it went pretty well and I believe I got a good deal.
Link Posted: 5/15/2017 7:29:08 PM EDT
[#7]
So just one thought here, but depending on the cost of adding a closed cooling system to a 22 year old engine, you might want to just add a mercruiser flush kit to flush out the salt water after you run it in salt water.  This should be significantly cheaper than adding a closed cooling system (I believe).
Link Posted: 5/15/2017 9:38:22 PM EDT
[#8]
Removing the pump as an assembly is the way I do them. Did the old impeller have all of it's blades? If you are missing pieces

you need to find them or it will overheat.
Link Posted: 5/17/2017 8:30:42 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
If you are going to go into salt water, make sure the Mercathode system is working and you have the correct anodes on the drive and trim tabs (if equipped).

Anode selection is important for corrosion resistance. Make sure all the bonding wires on the drive and through hull

hardware is in place and corrosion free.

You may need to step up in pitch if you are going to be close or at sea level. Lake Mead is at about 1200 feet and may have been re-propped to compensate.

Just note the wide open throttle RPM's when it's all trimmed up on plane and compare to the WOT rating on the flame arrestor.

If it's above, increase the prop pitch, below you need to decrease the pitch.
View Quote
I will add because the boat is new to you try and load out as you typically would, ...ie 3/4 fuel 3-4 people  gear etc don't test light as your #'s will change under load
Good stuff K
Link Posted: 6/16/2017 3:20:15 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I will add because the boat is new to you try and load out as you typically would, ...ie 3/4 fuel 3-4 people  gear etc don't test light as your #'s will change under load
Good stuff K
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
If you are going to go into salt water, make sure the Mercathode system is working and you have the correct anodes on the drive and trim tabs (if equipped).

Anode selection is important for corrosion resistance. Make sure all the bonding wires on the drive and through hull

hardware is in place and corrosion free.

You may need to step up in pitch if you are going to be close or at sea level. Lake Mead is at about 1200 feet and may have been re-propped to compensate.

Just note the wide open throttle RPM's when it's all trimmed up on plane and compare to the WOT rating on the flame arrestor.

If it's above, increase the prop pitch, below you need to decrease the pitch.
I will add because the boat is new to you try and load out as you typically would, ...ie 3/4 fuel 3-4 people  gear etc don't test light as your #'s will change under load
Good stuff K
God suggestion but the the maiden voyage was me an a buddy, not even an ice chest. That big prop with those idle RPMs were easy to handle although she does catch the breeze.
I posted earlier my starter quit working. Well I got around to troubleshooting it and it's got a sheared starter bolt.
I am really glad I had enough sense not to stop and fish when I took the wife and kids for their first ride considering we went out around a rig and back.
@ KB7DX  My issue now, is although I've removed, rebuilt and replace many small block Chevy's, I've never done a marine engine.
               One place says 5 hours total (125/hr) remove plus the repair time. Another says 10 hours (95/hr)....
Link Posted: 6/16/2017 8:55:41 PM EDT
[#11]
It really depends on how accessible the engine bay is. If it's wide open to the sides and not tucked back under the rear of the deck,

then it could be done (remove and replace engine) in 5 hours. This doesn't include drilling out the old bolt.

If it's in a cramped space and wedged back under the rear deck (limited access) it will take longer. How much

longer is going to be up to the guy who writes the estimate. Sometimes a Sawzall is involved.

Broken starter bolts are usually due to just a few reasons. One being the engine was locked up for one reason or another.

ETA -- Marine engines are actually easier to R&R than automotive engines if there's good access around it. If you've

R&R'd car engines, you can do a marine engine no problem.
Link Posted: 6/17/2017 2:16:49 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
It really depends on how accessible the engine bay is. If it's wide open to the sides and not tucked back under the rear of the deck,

then it could be done (remove and replace engine) in 5 hours. This doesn't include drilling out the old bolt.

If it's in a cramped space and wedged back under the rear deck (limited access) it will take longer. How much

longer is going to be up to the guy who writes the estimate. Sometimes a Sawzall is involved.

Broken starter bolts are usually due to just a few reasons. One being the engine was locked up for one reason or another.

ETA -- Marine engines are actually easier to R&R than automotive engines if there's good access around it. If you've

R&R'd car engines, you can do a marine engine no problem.
View Quote
I'm very tempted. The engine is easy to get to. and there's the manual on line with removal instructions. I am mostly worried about lining it back up when re-installing and if shit goes sideways, I'll be in for spending even more money.
It's a conundrum. Not mine but the same basically.
Link Posted: 6/17/2017 9:06:38 PM EDT
[#13]
Looks tight to me. You'll struggle with the positive battery cable on the starter and the motor mount lags at the least.

ETA -- You will need an alignment bar (special tool) to get the engine aligned with the driveshaft/gimbal bearing when re-installing.
Link Posted: 6/18/2017 8:08:04 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Looks tight to me. You'll struggle with the positive battery cable on the starter and the motor mount lags at the least.

ETA -- You will need an alignment bar (special tool) to get the engine aligned with the driveshaft/gimbal bearing when re-installing.
View Quote
I've already got at he starter, there's an in-floor equipment locker I can lay in and see it.
The alignment tool is cheap off Amazon, I am absolutely not worried about r&r the out drive.
I have Clymer's on the way. It's almost a go....
Link Posted: 6/18/2017 9:18:18 PM EDT
[#15]
Pro tips--

The shift cables (plate) can be removed as a unit from the exhaust elbow and stays with the boat. Just unplug the two little bullet connectors
from the shift interrupt switch.

The drive lube monitor bottle same same, just disconnect the two connectors and leave the bottle/hose in the boat.

Remove the entire front motor mount from the stringer instead of the one large nut on top of the mount on the engine.

The exhaust elbow and "turn down" pipe stay with the engine. Separate it where the rubber bellow/tube meet the "Y" pipe.

Break the exhaust bellows/tubes free by wedging a flat screwdriver between tube and Y pipe and spraying some soapy
water in the gap. Then run screwdriver around perimeter and they will slide right apart when you lift the engine.

Same for re-installing, a little soapy water will help things slip together easily.

I have the two "hose pickers" 2nd and 3rd from the bottom in this set bottom two in the pic. They are better than a screwdriver for the tubes as they are not sharp.
Just be careful using a screwdriver.



Make sure the fiber washers are in place on the rear motor mount bosses and the nuts are taped in place before installing engine.

IM me if you need any help.
Link Posted: 6/20/2017 7:46:24 PM EDT
[#16]
The weather is going to suck for a few days here, so I will move boat into shop over the weekend hopefully.
I got my Clymer's and it's better than the Merc manual.
I will be making a list of the lubes and stuff that needs to be replaced so I have it all ready.
Although I plan on removing the out drive, it seems that if I lubed up the stringers under the front motor mounts, the engine could be slid off and back of the shaft. I assume that's not a good idea since the shaft has nothing to support it and the end would drop?
Link Posted: 6/20/2017 10:35:47 PM EDT
[#17]
Remove the drive. It's the only way to do it right. How else are you going to align the engine if you don't remove the drive?

ETA -- When the engine is re-installed, it must be set down on the rear mounts and not slid. If you slide it, the fiber washers

the rear mounts sit on can be dislodged. Bad ju ju.

While you have the drive off, you may as well replace the gimbal bearing if it shows or feels like it has any wear or

roughness to it. Grease the u-joints if they have zerk fittings and clean and grease the driveshaft.

See how boats can "snowball"?
Link Posted: 7/9/2017 9:04:03 PM EDT
[#18]
I finally got around to working on the boat. After getting quotes, all for over $1000 bucks (8-10 hours), I bought a Clymer's to do it myself.
About 20 minutes to remove the stern drive and 4 hours to get the motor totally loose and ready to pull. Won't take me half the time next time.
I cannot imagine the job taking 4 hours to r&r by a mercruiser wrench.
Hopefully I can get it out tomorrow at a friends house, his shop is taller than mine, I can't lift engine over transom with my hoist.
I'll do a tune up, general maintenance and check the oil pan gasket while it's out.
HF has a 2000 lb engine stand that can handle the complete motor. There's post with pics on the net...
Bad news is the bolt is broke off up in the block. I hope I'm not looking at a new short block.
Link Posted: 7/10/2017 9:27:35 PM EDT
[#19]
Center punch the remainder of the bolt best you can. Drilling off-center isn't the end of the world. Most times if you drill off-center, it will allow the remaining bolt piece to be worked loose.

Coat replacement bolts in a thin coat of grease to ease removal next time. Make sure mounting flange on block where starter meets it is clean.

Clean out the splined coupler on the back of the engine and re-grease while it's out.

The 10 hours labor is really boat specific. I can remove a Mercruiser engine in about an hour...in a Cobalt boat where the entire

rear hatch/engine cover comes off. Not so much with some other brands. Last year I had to make a "C" shaped lifting

fixture to remove an engine in a Tahoe. It was tucked under the rear deck so far I had no room to hook the lift chain in the center.

How are the exhaust "flappers" (shutters) in the "Y" pipe? Good time to replace them if they show signs of burning

or cracking in the rubber.

ETA -- I start with a small drill bit and work up. If you drill off-center, keep increasing bit size until you break through

one side of the bolt and expose threads. Then try to work the bolt piece out.
Link Posted: 7/13/2017 10:34:46 AM EDT
[#20]
I will be using never seize and greasing everything I can.
Got it out, no problem. Have gaskets and alignment tool, etc on the way. Will re-assemble next week.
I have to order new starter bolts as they aren't regular SBC and no place had them in stock.
No flappers here, it's a through prop exhaust, but I am replacing the rubber on the risers. They were pretty dry.
The good news is pulling the motor is easy, I did not see anything of concern and I got lots of assorted sockets, nuts and washers that collected in the bilge since 1994.
Link Posted: 7/13/2017 3:02:45 PM EDT
[#21]
There should be flappers (shutters) in the "Y" pipe right where the rubber tube connects to it. Doesn't matter if it's through prop exhaust. Are there any holes in the Y pipe near the end of it. Square or round holes should be present.
Link Posted: 7/21/2017 12:31:39 PM EDT
[#22]
@KB7DX

Well, I got then motor in yesterday and I am only missing on nut which is great for me.
It took 6 or 7 hours working by myself. I can now see that a guy in a shop, who isn't in a hurry could get away with taking 10 hours to R&R.
I'm glad I did plugs and wires while the motor was lifted.
Keeping the washers and triple wound lock nuts lined up and on the rear mounts was a bitch.
I hung the stern drive but ran into a concern.
The "jaws" where the shifter cable goes in the drive open up but it seems like the end of the cable is hitting on something.
It's a stiff cable, but when I slide the drive forward, it seems to be binding up.
I do not know if it's supposed to offer some resistance or not. I have looked at two manuals and Googled and can find no specifics.
I worry because no one has asked the question, it's always "make sure the jaws are open and slap 'er on".
Also the the coil is not a conventional one where the top is a female receptacle. It accepts a "t" post. ?? The OEM plug wires had a conventional type coil wire. i'll run the older wire for now. All the replacement are conventional.
ETA: After more searching, I may not have pulled the jaws out far enough.
Thanks for any advice!
Link Posted: 7/21/2017 3:25:11 PM EDT
[#23]
Yes, the jaws need to be pulled out of the drive a bit so they will open up. I use needle nose

pliers to grab it and pull out until the jaws will open. The jaws will close and the shift linkage will be pushed back

into the drive cavity when you butt the drive against the bell housing (mating surface).
Link Posted: 7/21/2017 6:56:17 PM EDT
[#24]
Yeah, I could have had it done in an hour except I was afraid to mess something up.
I assumed the drive would slip in easily all the way and wasted lots of time trying to find out why it would not.
When it was about an inch out, i just tightened down to nuts and it drew up easy with no real resistance.
The coil is normal, whoever put the last set of wires on made their own and it came apart leaving a piece in the coil.
One thing I learned after I scraped it off, there's no o-ring on the gear lube check valve..... I did get an o-ring that would fit. hopefully no leak in the morning.
There's nothing to this operation after you do it once. Thanks for the advice.
Link Posted: 7/22/2017 3:25:13 PM EDT
[#25]
That last inch sometimes requires the Mercruiser Kick.
Link Posted: 7/27/2017 7:45:20 PM EDT
[#26]
@KB7DX

So. the family loads up for a day on the water. Luckily, in Louisiana you don't have to drive far.
The boat only has forward and no neutral or reverse. FML.
I watched the cable go into the stern drive correctly.....
Link Posted: 7/27/2017 9:12:09 PM EDT
[#27]
Sounds like the cable end got kinked or you somehow missed getting the cable "puck" into the jaws.

I remove Bravo drives in neutral, not forward like an Alpha. Hopefully the shift linkage inside the drive is ok.

Time to remove the drive if the cables are moving when you shift on the shift plate located on the exhaust elbow.

ETA -- Check shifting in the driveway "on the muffs" before going to the lake.
Link Posted: 7/28/2017 9:11:32 AM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Sounds like the cable end got kinked or you somehow missed getting the cable "puck" into the jaws.

I remove Bravo drives in neutral, not forward like an Alpha. Hopefully the shift linkage inside the drive is ok.

Time to remove the drive if the cables are moving when you shift on the shift plate located on the exhaust elbow.

ETA -- Check shifting in the driveway "on the muffs" before going to the lake.
View Quote
Living and learning.
I'll try to shift by hand this weekend in the driveway. If I can't. I'm dropping the drive again.
I watched the "puck" go into the jaws.... If that's the problem, I don't know what else to do except pull it out as far as I can and try again.
Link Posted: 7/28/2017 11:05:19 PM EDT
[#29]
I put the drive in neutral at the control handle, remove drive. When you pull the

drive away from the bell housing, it will pull the shift linkage "jaws" out of the drive.

When re-installing, the cable will "push" the linkage back into the drive in the neutral

position.

Bravo drives use a cone clutch arrangement in the upper gearcase for forward and reverse.

That said, turning the props by hand to confirm shifting can be misleading. Usually turning the

props  backwards from what ever gear you select will make the cone clutch engage and confirm the shift.

Cone clutch arrangements are dependent on shedding the oil between the cone clutch itself and the

pocket it rides in for a solid engagement. Sometimes rotating the props by hand won't be

enough force to shed the oil. Best to run it on the muffs to check shifting.

Allow time between shifts for the props to stop rotating.
Link Posted: 7/31/2017 8:44:39 PM EDT
[#30]
Yay me.
Shifts correctly in the driveway. Will go out Thursday.
The "jaws" were pushed way in and the shift cable wan't engaged.
I watched it go in until there was a 3/8" gap.
Link Posted: 8/1/2017 5:59:36 PM EDT
[#31]
Chalk it up to educational costs.
Link Posted: 10/14/2017 11:50:31 AM EDT
[#32]
@KB7DX

So I am upgrading my sonar. I have an upgrade side scan transducer that came in FedEx today. Being Saturday, Humminbird customer service isn't open.
I have the stern drive and now I'm concerned about side scan on the drive side of the transducer.
I could mount the transducer close to the keel but it would be close to the drive...
Hopefully you're lurking. I'm off to search the internets.
Link Posted: 10/14/2017 3:15:13 PM EDT
[#33]
It should be mounted as far away from the drive as practical.  Don't install it

behind any strakes or other protrusions in the hull. Make sure it (the transducer)

doesn't hit any of the bunks on the trailer.

I haven't done many side-scan sonars, the above is a general rule for all transducers.
Link Posted: 12/13/2017 12:11:21 AM EDT
[#34]
Had to move from initial place. Too close to stern drive and had erratic depth readings at speed. I moved farther out so ill lose one side of the side scan I'm sure. Haven't tried it out yet.
Link Posted: 12/13/2017 11:03:47 PM EDT
[#35]
Report your findings. Inquiring minds want to know.
Link Posted: 1/21/2018 6:27:31 PM EDT
[#36]
@ KB7DX
Finally a break in the weather.
Overheat alarm right off the bat.
Impeller fragged again. WTF.
I installed a new housing when I replaced the impeller last May. It was a Mercruiser part.
We've had 3 or 4 uneventful trips since the initial replacement.
I ran water back through the motor as good as I could to push any rubber pieces out.
Obviously I'm replacing the impeller. Anything to look for? The inside of the housing looks great.
Link Posted: 1/23/2018 2:14:53 PM EDT
[#37]
Do you mean the impeller is actually in pieces or did it just tear up the top near the hub?
@HELOBRAVO
ETA - OK, I had to read back through the thread. So it has a Bravo sea pump on it.

Those impellers should be done every year. If it sat around and hadn't been run in

a while, the blades stuck to the housing and were probably torn off as soon as you turned

the engine over.

You need to go on "Safari" to find the blades that were torn off. Follow the outlet hose

from the sea pump up to the heat exchanger (closed cooling) or thermostat housing

(open cooling). This is where any shed blades will usually be.
Link Posted: 1/23/2018 8:09:51 PM EDT
[#38]
It was new in May. The guy at the parts counter said maybe the cold we had recently affected it.
Who knows. It's changed. The boat runs good in the driveway and I'll try again tomorrow.
I did try to reverse flush the motor. No pieces. Most of it was in the impeller housing.
On a positive note, I can at least sit in the cabin and listen to the cassette player while I drink my rum and Coke and pretend I'm in the islands....
Link Posted: 1/24/2018 8:13:49 PM EDT
[#39]
Took it out today. All is well. Again....
Link Posted: 1/24/2018 9:59:53 PM EDT
[#40]
Awesome! Reminds me I've got to go to work tomorrow. I've been

on vacation for the last 7 or 8 days.
Link Posted: 1/24/2018 10:29:37 PM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
It was new in May. The guy at the parts counter said maybe the cold we had recently affected it.
Who knows. It's changed. The boat runs good in the driveway and I'll try again tomorrow.
I did try to reverse flush the motor. No pieces. Most of it was in the impeller housing.
On a positive note, I can at least sit in the cabin and listen to the cassette player while I drink my rum and Coke and pretend I'm in the islands....
View Quote
NEVER, EVER run it for even a second without water on it  !
Link Posted: 1/25/2018 12:07:13 PM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

NEVER, EVER run it for even a second without water on it  !
View Quote
Never did.
Link Posted: 1/25/2018 12:07:56 PM EDT
[#43]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Awesome! Reminds me I've got to go to work tomorrow. I've been

on vacation for the last 7 or 8 days.
View Quote
Must be nice. I was on my belly working on the impeller for my day off.
Link Posted: 5/6/2018 7:27:53 PM EDT
[#44]
Hows it going?

Have one in the garage that hasn't been in the water for too long.  Last time we used it the bilge pump was running continuously-even when the motor was not running.   Never have figured out what was leaking.    None of the boots seemed to be leaking, drain plug was in.  I suspect maybe a loose freeze plug in the back of the motor, though the bilge water was cold water.  Local shop quoted 3500 to pull motor, check freeze plugs and reinstall the motor.  Thought that was boderline highway robbery.

Hoping to get the boat out where i can get to it, give it another look over, and pull the motor if i have to.
Link Posted: 5/6/2018 10:24:33 PM EDT
[#45]
Next time you can put it in the water, bring a mirror and a strong flashlight

with you and have a look under the engine for the leak. If it leaks just sitting in the water

(not running) then it's coming in through the transom somewhere (cold water).

Leaks are pretty easy to spot with the flashlight/mirror combo.

Start with a dry bilge.
Link Posted: 5/6/2018 10:50:54 PM EDT
[#46]
I suppose I need to do that.  Nearest place I can launch is about an hour away.  Just have to set aside a day and plan on not doing any boating- just looking for water.

Probably do the ear muff test in the driveway first just to be sure its not a leak in the coolant system.  I did that a couple years ago, just dont recall what we discovered.   Waited too long to dig in and solve the problem.
Link Posted: 5/6/2018 10:56:24 PM EDT
[#47]
Dupe post somehow
Link Posted: 5/7/2018 10:13:51 AM EDT
[#48]
@KB7DX

Things, luckily have been relatively uneventful as far as my boating goes.
Although, a few months ago the hose on the engine side of the impeller housing came off in the middle of Lake Pontchartrain.
That was an adventure for about a half hour....

Many post ago I pulled the engine. Both me and the guy who had the shop crane commented on how clean and dry the engine was.
I mean out of the box dry. No sigh of oil leakage anywhere. The valve covers, oil pan (main bearing areas and drain plug included), everything.
Fast forward to now. For some time I have noticed oil in the bilge even when sitting on the trailer. Not much, so I've not worried about it, just check my oil frequently.
Today I am going to have a look around. I guess I'll use a mirror as much as I can and just reach down and feel around.
Any common thing to look for? Thanks.
Link Posted: 5/7/2018 11:09:41 AM EDT
[#49]
Look at the power steering hoses especially the return line that runs

from the pump body to the cooler (heat exchanger). The return line is

a common leak point as the hose becomes old and stiff and loses it's seal

where it connects to the pump body and the cooler. The pressure side hose

has flare fittings on it and is far less likely to leak.

Also, if the oil filter is remote located, the hoses from the engine block to the

remote filter housing have a tendency to leak where the hose is crimped

to the flare fittings.

The water hose blowing off the outlet of the pump may indicate a restriction

downstream of the pump. Old impeller pieces or sand/rocks in the oil cooler

will do this. If restricted, the sea pump will make too much pressure and blow the hose off the pump.
Link Posted: 5/7/2018 12:32:03 PM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Look at the power steering hoses especially the return line that runs

from the pump body to the cooler (heat exchanger). The return line is

a common leak point as the hose becomes old and stiff and loses it's seal

where it connects to the pump body and the cooler. The pressure side hose

has flare fittings on it and is far less likely to leak.

Also, if the oil filter is remote located, the hoses from the engine block to the

remote filter housing have a tendency to leak where the hose is crimped

to the flare fittings.

The water hose blowing off the outlet of the pump may indicate a restriction

downstream of the pump. Old impeller pieces or sand/rocks in the oil cooler

will do this. If restricted, the sea pump will make too much pressure and blow the hose off the pump.
View Quote
Thanks.

I'm busted. I have to confess, when I changed the impeller, I believe I had the hose clamp on the edge of the hose connection/male part of the housing. I hung on for quite a while. I could hear water coming in but couldn't address it for the heat. Glad it wasn't the other hose.
And, at least in the lake, we can stand on top of the hard top until help arrives.
I will say, before it cooled enough to let me reach under there to identify the problem, I did give sea tow a call. I had it fixed before they got to their boat.
I have them on my insurance policy. They were great. Even if we would have been in the gulf, I would have felt confident we'd be OK.
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