Quote History Quoted:
I'll post a link to my used boat thread when I get home. $6500 for a 14 year old Bayliner is kinda steep IMO. Whatever you do, have it checked out by a shop, preferably on the water so it can be tested properly.
Running it on a hose in the driveway is one thing, running it on the water is another animal.
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Thanks to KB for all posts and info he has contributed here!!
I am posting the link and a copy of his post to keep him from having to dig it up.
Here is a link to
KB's -- So you want to buy a used boat thread
Not sure if non team members can access archives so here is main part of the post.
All of the below text is from KB's thread/post.
The boating season is around the corner and some of you may be thinking about buying a used
boat. Here's KB's "used boat checklist" to help you make an informed purchase.
First off, perform these checks when initially looking at the boat.
1 Visual inspection of engine. How does it look? Oily,rusty,corroded,wiring rotted?
2 Compression check 100 psi minimum for 2 strokes, 4 strokes will vary but should be 150ish. All cylinders should be within 10%. (although Merc now says 15%)
3 Spark check using proper spark checker. (This test mostly for outboard ignitions)
4 Gear lube inspection. Remove the drain plug just enough to allow a bit to dribble out. Water means there's water in it YIKES! Rusty water is a double YIKES! Milky oil is contaminated with water (leaks) Black oil means it's overdue for a change. New oil will be transparent, just tinted different colors for different brands.
Small amounts of metal shavings are to be expected, chunks are not.
5 Run on hose. Start it up and let it warm up for a few minutes. Make sure the propeller isn't going to contact anything, and shift it in and out of forward and reverse. Allow some time between shifting it between gears to allow the prop to stop rotating.
6 Inspect the transom for cracks or rotting. Especially near the bottom of the stern bracket (outboards) or gimbal housing (sterndrives). Inspect the deck (floor) and the stringers (big ribs/beams that run the length of the boat) for rot and or softness.
7 Batteries How old are they? Are the terminals corroded? Does it look "pregnant"(swollen). Batteries are pricey these days and old batteries are a good tool for lowering the price.
8 Service When was the boat serviced last? In most cases it will run about $500 per engine (sterndrive) and a little less for an outboard. If the boat hasn't been serviced for the season, you should deduct the service price from the selling price..another tool.
9 Bellows and transom rubber (sterndrives) These are the rubber "boots" or bellows that connect the drive with the boat basically. These should be changed about every 4 or 5 years. Sooner if the boat is kept in the water. This repair runs between $500 and $1000 per engine/drive...another bargaining tool.
If all this checks out, then it's time for a "sea trial". One strong note of caution
here..If the seller won't take it for an on the water test...RUN AWAY! Don't let the seller
BS you and say "I don't give boat rides" or "I don't have time".. RUN AWAY! (see above)
One tactic is to go through the checks I describe above in the driveway. Negotiate a price
with the seller. Then tell him the sale is contingent on the sea trial. This forces the
sellers hand. If the seller agrees to the sea trial and the boat performs as it should on
the water, you probably have a sound boat.
During the sea trial, take note of RPM's at wide open throttle, oil pressure and temperature. Listen for any "rumbling" sounds from the transom., especially when the steering is hard over to the right or left. Note steering effort too. Stiff steering indicates a bad cable or helm, corroded/bound pivot or tilt tube (outboards) Sterndrives with power steering can be stiff from bad cable, pump or steering ram, rusted or corroded steering pin in the gimbal housing. Check shifting again. Does it go in and out of gear easily? Does it stall when shifted into gear? How does it idle in gear? Check for hesitation upon acceleration and stalling when coming down off of plane. Finally, check the bilge for water.