I'm toying with the idea of buying a either a 6x12 single axle or a 7x12 tandem axle enclosed utility trailer and converting it into a camper with a few feet in the rear dedicated to gear storage, with a bench and an area to get geared up when I go dive. All of my days off are at least two in a row, and every other weekend I get three days off, so I have plenty of time to take overnight trips. Right now I've got an older F-150 with a 4.2L V6 so my towing ability is lesser than it will be in the future when I get a newer truck with a bigger motor in it.

I've found a few helpful YouTube videos on the subject, but has anyone on here done the same thing? I like the idea of a hard-sided trailer vs. a pop-up for when I'm in the water or off doing something else, as it's pretty well known at most dive sites that anybody entering the water with multiple tanks isn't going to be back anytime soon. It still wouldn't be hard to pop the side door or cut a padlock, but it would be better than someone being able to just slice a hole in canvas and steal my laptop, gun, other dive gear, etc.

I was planning on removing the interior panels and possibly the flooring and insulating the whole trailer (including the roof) to combat the Florida summer heat. I'd also wire it for electric and add either a stand alone or window A/C unit to it. A bed, preferably one that folded from roughly twin size to a double (depending on if the GF is with me or not), would be needed, with storage space underneath it. I figured ClosetMaid style wire shelving would be lighter than building wooden shelves. A small refrigerator might be a possibility. Toilet/shower aren't 100% necessary because most of the places I camp and dive have facilities, but I could get a chemical toilet and a solar shower to hang on the outside of the trailer if they were necessary for a certain trip. An awning would be nice to have, along with a screen in the rear so I could get the air flow to my wet dive gear or throughout the trailer if it was cool outside.

This is probably a good place to start:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_18/674193_Bug_out_trailer__very_pic_heavy_.html

google tiny trailers  1 major website, with all sorts of good info.

Very much so, thanks

No problem. Once I am retired I want to build one pretty similar to that one.  He did a great job. Good links in there too.

Yes I've done it and so should you!!!!  




Tnttt.com appears to be down at the moment or I would link to my build thread

Yeah, I've tried their site multiple times tonight and the links just don't work. This is the beginning of my design idea, with the rear section geared toward scuba diving as it seems most of my camping trips in the last two years have been for that reason:




The storage areas for the tanks would have a small lip around the bottom (think something the size of a 2x4) to keep them from sliding out toward the middle of the trailer, while loops of bungee would keep the valves/manifolds from falling over away from the walls. I'm sure ClosetMaid makes some type of coated wire shelving (rust prevention, plus it would allow the gear to air dry a little better after use) with a small lip around it or a deep basket to put mask boxes and reels in for transport to/from sites.

I thought about making a wooden bench, similar to this, but not nearly as wide:





You can see the scalloped out portions in the bench itself and the backrest that cradle a set of double tanks easily once the diver sits down. The bench is shown in the middle of my design to be balanced, and it would be permanently affixed. The shower floor that was installed below the hang bar for wet gear is another idea I'd like to incorporate if cost and weight allows... but not sure how practical it would be compared to the price.


I'm looking at Diamond Cargo trailers, specifically their 6x12 and 7x12 models.

6x12 Single Axle
$2025 base cost
3500 pound axle (listed as 2990)
Gross Weight: 1300 pounds
Payload Capacity: 1690 pounds
Interior Height: 6’ 3”

7x12 Single Axle
$2350 base cost
3500 pound axle (listed as 2990)
Gross Weight: 1375 pounds
Payload Capacity: 1615 pounds
Interior Height: 6’ 3”


Basically the same, except I'm gaining an extra foot of width for an additional $325, while losing about 75 pounds of capacity. I'm only about 5' 10" tall, but having that extra space to stretch (or create some kind of headboard type shelving above my mattress) would be worth it in the long run to increase the comfort factor, I think.

Additional options I'm considering:

Insulated floor - $27 per foot (trailer length) x 12 feet = $324.00
Stabilizer Jacks - $75.00 (pair)
30" x 15" Sliding Window with Screen - $175.00 each x 2 = $350.00

The insulation on the floor is pretty pricey, but if it's going to be a real PITA to pull the floor and do it myself then it might be worth the extra cost to have it be ready to go from the factory. That way I'd only have to do the walls and ceiling on my own, and buying it from the factory would allow me to have them either leave the side panels off entirely, or at least not add on the trim pieces to cover the gap in the side panels to make them easier for me tor remove at home. Both trailers are within $2.00 of each other when it comes to yearly registration fees here in FL. You can also get 110v or 12v powered vents ($125 and $75 respectively) for the ceiling, or add an additional non-powered roof vent for $40.

The more of the process that involves drilling holes all the way through the trailer that I can have the factory do, the better... lol



Also, this picture from the ColtRifle thread is exactly how I want the nose end to look:

Glad my thread was useful.  If you have questions just ask.

I wouldn't install a bathroom in the camper personally.  It would make it too small inside.  Just bring a shower tent and a portable toilet like I do.  The Eccotemp water heater is FANTASTIC!

We used it this weekend.  Love it.

I do wish I had a longer tongue on the trailer.  If I could change one thing, that's what I would change.  I'd mount a couple propane tanks on the tongue...but can't now because my trailer's tongue is too short.

I'm sure I'll be PM'ing you once I start the project, I was very impressed with your setup.

As for the bathroom, I was thinking the same thing. If I was going to buy an 8.5x20 trailer or something, I would consider adding a full bathroom to it. A solar shower, maybe on some type of rack hanging off the rear or side of the camper would be perfect IMO (possibly a shower tent, depending on site space). Most of the places I go have full bathroom/shower setups so I'm not needing it to be a self sufficient shelter yet.

May I ask what that build set you back?

I really like that set up!

What brands of trailers are you guys using? Right now it seems the best three options are Haulmark (a given), Pace American, and Wells Cargo.

Mine is a Lark.

One thing to look at...some of the cheaper trailers have the plywood attached with something that looks like screws...but really they are nails.  You destroy the plywood removing it to install insulation.

Mine used actual screws and it was easy to remove the plywood, install insulation, and then put the plywood back up.  

Make sure whatever you buy has the actual screws.

I'll make sure they specify the fastener type when I order it.

I've since upgraded my desired size to a 7x16... went and checked a few out the other day and I think that will work for what I want to do.

Have a few new ideas to draw up too. I'll post them in here as soon as I get either pencil or MS paint renderings.

double tap

Everything you want to know here:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=42&sid=c071825452136c76f554fa11f34194dd

I like DIY projects but I wonder the following.

With the initial cost of the trailer then the labor and material to make the modiifaction would you not be cheaper to simply buy an older travel trailer?

A few years ago, I had a camper set up on some farmland we own. Rain got in and we had some damage. I stripped everything out, replaced the plywood (this was an old heavy 28" rig that still used plywood not particle board) with new insulation and prefinished melanine or something similar sheets.
End remnant of sheet vinyl for the floor.

I was able to reinstall the cabinets and all the 12 volt/LP appliances and lighting.

End result was a much handier one room living area with a lot more flexibility.

Just my personal opinion but I think as far as security and low profile. an old camper probably not stand out as much as a nice shiny new rig or a cargo van conversion.

I understand where you are coming from.  However, most campers are pretty poorly built.  If you buy a good one, you're looking at serious money.  Cargo trailers typically are built much stronger because they are typically used to haul cargo and need to be strong enough to handle it.  

I've got about $4500 in mine and that's with a new trailer purchase.

I'm looking at going with a Diamond Cargo trailer, they have a dealer that's 15 minutes away from me vs. the hour or four hour drive of other manufacturers. I'd still be going to Georgia to pick up the trailer, but that's not a problem (nothin' wrong with a day or two road trip on a weekend off ). The dealer can also save me over $500 on the cost of the trailer itself.

Their 7x16 tandem axle with .030" exterior sheetmetal, double roof vents (one for the roof AC I've decided to go with and install myself to save having to do a bulkhead wall in the back for a window AC unit, which would effectively end my plans for putting dive gear in the back, and one for a Fan-Tastic fan), stabilizer jacks, extended tongue, a 30x30 window (passenger side center), two 15x30 windows (driver side upper front and rear corners), spare tire, and ramp back door should get me started in the right direction. Almost everything will be pulled off in the initial construction stages for insulation and wiring purposes once I get it home, so I will be able to double check their work (as I would with any brand). They have an A- rating with the BBB and I've talked to several people that own them that love them. Dealer pricing for the above comes in at right around $4200.

Your size would definitely be better served with a roof AC.  A roof AC would be too big for mine.  

I highly recommend that you have a window put in the door.  It's really nice.  

That's a good price on what you are getting.

Came up with a couple more questions. I have an email in to Diamond Cargo regarding their numbers for an exact tongue weight for the 7x16 V-nose, with a standard tongue and an extended tongue.

If the stock trailer with a standard tongue weighs 2260 pounds, then the tongue weight should be 226 pounds if 10%, and 339 pounds if 15%. My hitch is a Class III, so it will support up to 600 pounds tongue/ball weight.

By placing the "kitchen" in the V-nose, will 100% of that weight be added to the tongue weight, or just a majority of it? The 2x4's, plywood, laminate counter top, cabinets, and compact refrigerator will add up quickly weight-wise.

Would there be a problem with having the water tanks under the bed area (somewhat directly over the axles), with the bar sink in the V-nose and the Eccotemp L5 water heater/shower in the rear by the ramp door?

Would putting the roof A/C in a vent over the axles (and thus over the bed, my preferred spot anyways) be better than putting it closer to the front of the trailer for weight? How about air flow (keeping the unit away from the door)? Like I said, I prefer to have my sleeping quarters be like an icebox.

Will the weight of the scuba tanks and gear, plus any interior construction that is behind the axles counter-balance the weight in the nose so the tongue weight is reduced? Those tanks weigh more than people give them credit for.

I can't answer all your questions.  I would recommend putting as much weight over the axles as possible.  However, some will still go forward to the tongue.  Just don't get carried away and you should be fine.  

What's your tow vehicle and can it handle a 7x16 trailer loaded?  Do you have a trailer brake controller on your tow vehicle?  Are you ordering any brakes on your trailer?  For what you are wanting to build, I would insist on trailer brakes on one of the axles.  

My original tow vehicle was a V6 so that's why I went with a single axle trailer.  It couldn't handle a ton of weight.  My new truck is a V8 F150 so it handles the weight better but I would still rather have a smaller and lighter trailer.

Tow vehicle is an F-150 with a 4.2L V6. I'll be getting new tires and brakes (needed anyways), a brake controller, and 7-pin harness installed on it prior to taking possession of the trailer itself. May even add a transmission cooler, depending on the hassle or cost of having it done by someone else. The trailer also comes with brakes on both axles per the website. The gross combined weight limit on the truck is 10,000 pounds, pretty sure the truck weighs about 4,000 pounds (I'll be getting it weighed soon to get an exact number). I've towed at least 1500+ pounds multiple times with zero issues (could barely tell it was back there except for when I had to stop in a hurry, but that trailer had no brakes on it either). I don't foresee any issues with the empty trailer itself; if the project was 100% completed, it might struggle a good bit but I don't know what the final weight for the trailer will be, either. I'd like to keep the gross weight of the trailer below 4000 once it's finished and fully loaded, but we'll see how well that works out.

Keep in mind, I won't be driving this truck forever. I fully anticipate being in something capable of hauling and towing much more weight than what I have now, within a year (which is about how long I'm anticipating this project to take me to totally finish). Looking at full-size crew cab trucks with a large V8, or possibly a diesel motor. ;

I don't mind the width and length of the trailer, I just don't want to burn up my motor and transmission towing it, thus leaving me stranded on the side of the road in BFE with no phone service and a huge tow bill... that would suck. The majority of my towing experience has been 16-22 foot boats, with the occasional trip using a flatbed trailer of nearly 25-30 feet (obviously different tow vehicles).

Forgot to tag this thread.  Sorry for the delay.  The trailer alone I picked up one year old for $3500 ($8500 new!!!)  Seller was desperate in 2008 when the economy crashed.  All told I have about $12K in this and could have bought a nice used factory toyhauler for that.  This however is what I wanted and it has been totally trouble free now for 7 years and about 30,000 miles of use.