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using grease when installing barrel on ar-15?
3/16/2012 10:03:23 PM
What kind of grease do you all use when installing a barrel on an ar-15?
3/16/2012 10:22:37 PM
Originally Posted By ShowMeAR15:
What kind of grease do you all use when installing a barrel on an ar-15?
What kind of grease do you all use when installing a barrel on an ar-15?
NOT GREASE –– ANTISIEZE
3/16/2012 10:35:00 PM
I will guess you are asking about greasing the barrel extension before sliding it into the receiver, and then the receiver threads.
Apparently the only acceptable grease to use is the Aeroshell 33ms, which is nearly made of unobtanium. So apparently I and many, many other folks have done it wrong by using whatever kind of grease we happened to have on-hand at the time, which for me was some synthetic hi-temp, moly/lithium/wunderbar bearing grease.
The following is just, like, my opinion, man.
Seriously, it really doesn't matter which brand of good grease you use. And by good I mean hi-temp, moly, etc, etc. As logn as the barrel extension physically slides into the upper, you grease the barrel extension solely to make disassembly easier down the road. As to the barrel threads, you simply lube them up a little, tighten the barrel nut to 30ft/lbs, loosen it, tighten again to 30ft/lbs, loosen it again and finally tighten it to 30ft/lbs AND then the very NEXT gas tube notch. If the 30ft/lbs puts you exactly into a notch, you should tighten to the next notch. This should fall within the "spec" of 30-80ft/lbs. But in reality if the threads are lubed with a good quality grease the exact torque figure does not really matter as you always go to the next notch and the gas tube physically stops the barrel nut from backing off. A genius that Stoner was. Do not worry about breaking the nut/threads. Back when I knew less I tightened one to 120ft/lbs. Later when I discovered the error of my ways I re-did it properly and that upper lives & breathes to this day.
Apparently the only acceptable grease to use is the Aeroshell 33ms, which is nearly made of unobtanium. So apparently I and many, many other folks have done it wrong by using whatever kind of grease we happened to have on-hand at the time, which for me was some synthetic hi-temp, moly/lithium/wunderbar bearing grease.
The following is just, like, my opinion, man.
Seriously, it really doesn't matter which brand of good grease you use. And by good I mean hi-temp, moly, etc, etc. As logn as the barrel extension physically slides into the upper, you grease the barrel extension solely to make disassembly easier down the road. As to the barrel threads, you simply lube them up a little, tighten the barrel nut to 30ft/lbs, loosen it, tighten again to 30ft/lbs, loosen it again and finally tighten it to 30ft/lbs AND then the very NEXT gas tube notch. If the 30ft/lbs puts you exactly into a notch, you should tighten to the next notch. This should fall within the "spec" of 30-80ft/lbs. But in reality if the threads are lubed with a good quality grease the exact torque figure does not really matter as you always go to the next notch and the gas tube physically stops the barrel nut from backing off. A genius that Stoner was. Do not worry about breaking the nut/threads. Back when I knew less I tightened one to 120ft/lbs. Later when I discovered the error of my ways I re-did it properly and that upper lives & breathes to this day.
3/16/2012 10:39:04 PM
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
I will guess you are asking about greasing the barrel extension before sliding it into the receiver, and then the receiver threads.
Apparently the only acceptable grease to use is the Aeroshell 33ms, which is nearly made of unobtanium. So apparently I and many, many other folks have done it wrong by using whatever kind of grease we happened to have on-hand at the time, which for me was some synthetic hi-temp, moly/lithium/wunderbar bearing grease.
The following is just, like, my opinion, man.
Seriously, it really doesn't matter which brand of good grease you use. And by good I mean hi-temp, moly, etc, etc. As logn as the barrel extension physically slides into the upper, you grease the barrel extension solely to make disassembly easier down the road. As to the barrel threads, you simply lube them up a little, tighten the barrel nut to 30ft/lbs, loosen it, tighten again to 30ft/lbs, loosen it again and finally tighten it to 30ft/lbs AND then the very NEXT gas tube notch. If the 30ft/lbs puts you exactly into a notch, you should tighten to the next notch. This should fall within the "spec" of 30-80ft/lbs. But in reality if the threads are lubed with a good quality grease the exact torque figure does not really matter as you always go to the next notch and the gas tube physically stops the barrel nut from backing off. A genius that Stoner was. Do not worry about breaking the nut/threads. Back when I knew less I tightened one to 120ft/lbs. Later when I discovered the error of my ways I re-did it properly and that upper lives & breathes to this day.
I will guess you are asking about greasing the barrel extension before sliding it into the receiver, and then the receiver threads.
Apparently the only acceptable grease to use is the Aeroshell 33ms, which is nearly made of unobtanium. So apparently I and many, many other folks have done it wrong by using whatever kind of grease we happened to have on-hand at the time, which for me was some synthetic hi-temp, moly/lithium/wunderbar bearing grease.
The following is just, like, my opinion, man.
Seriously, it really doesn't matter which brand of good grease you use. And by good I mean hi-temp, moly, etc, etc. As logn as the barrel extension physically slides into the upper, you grease the barrel extension solely to make disassembly easier down the road. As to the barrel threads, you simply lube them up a little, tighten the barrel nut to 30ft/lbs, loosen it, tighten again to 30ft/lbs, loosen it again and finally tighten it to 30ft/lbs AND then the very NEXT gas tube notch. If the 30ft/lbs puts you exactly into a notch, you should tighten to the next notch. This should fall within the "spec" of 30-80ft/lbs. But in reality if the threads are lubed with a good quality grease the exact torque figure does not really matter as you always go to the next notch and the gas tube physically stops the barrel nut from backing off. A genius that Stoner was. Do not worry about breaking the nut/threads. Back when I knew less I tightened one to 120ft/lbs. Later when I discovered the error of my ways I re-did it properly and that upper lives & breathes to this day.
holy cow... was it difficult getting it that high?
3/16/2012 10:46:02 PM
Originally Posted By gerfungerpoken:
holy cow... was it difficult getting it that high?
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
I will guess you are asking about greasing the barrel extension before sliding it into the receiver, and then the receiver threads.
Apparently the only acceptable grease to use is the Aeroshell 33ms, which is nearly made of unobtanium. So apparently I and many, many other folks have done it wrong by using whatever kind of grease we happened to have on-hand at the time, which for me was some synthetic hi-temp, moly/lithium/wunderbar bearing grease.
The following is just, like, my opinion, man.
Seriously, it really doesn't matter which brand of good grease you use. And by good I mean hi-temp, moly, etc, etc. As logn as the barrel extension physically slides into the upper, you grease the barrel extension solely to make disassembly easier down the road. As to the barrel threads, you simply lube them up a little, tighten the barrel nut to 30ft/lbs, loosen it, tighten again to 30ft/lbs, loosen it again and finally tighten it to 30ft/lbs AND then the very NEXT gas tube notch. If the 30ft/lbs puts you exactly into a notch, you should tighten to the next notch. This should fall within the "spec" of 30-80ft/lbs. But in reality if the threads are lubed with a good quality grease the exact torque figure does not really matter as you always go to the next notch and the gas tube physically stops the barrel nut from backing off. A genius that Stoner was. Do not worry about breaking the nut/threads. Back when I knew less I tightened one to 120ft/lbs. Later when I discovered the error of my ways I re-did it properly and that upper lives & breathes to this day.
I will guess you are asking about greasing the barrel extension before sliding it into the receiver, and then the receiver threads.
Apparently the only acceptable grease to use is the Aeroshell 33ms, which is nearly made of unobtanium. So apparently I and many, many other folks have done it wrong by using whatever kind of grease we happened to have on-hand at the time, which for me was some synthetic hi-temp, moly/lithium/wunderbar bearing grease.
The following is just, like, my opinion, man.
Seriously, it really doesn't matter which brand of good grease you use. And by good I mean hi-temp, moly, etc, etc. As logn as the barrel extension physically slides into the upper, you grease the barrel extension solely to make disassembly easier down the road. As to the barrel threads, you simply lube them up a little, tighten the barrel nut to 30ft/lbs, loosen it, tighten again to 30ft/lbs, loosen it again and finally tighten it to 30ft/lbs AND then the very NEXT gas tube notch. If the 30ft/lbs puts you exactly into a notch, you should tighten to the next notch. This should fall within the "spec" of 30-80ft/lbs. But in reality if the threads are lubed with a good quality grease the exact torque figure does not really matter as you always go to the next notch and the gas tube physically stops the barrel nut from backing off. A genius that Stoner was. Do not worry about breaking the nut/threads. Back when I knew less I tightened one to 120ft/lbs. Later when I discovered the error of my ways I re-did it properly and that upper lives & breathes to this day.
holy cow... was it difficult getting it that high?
Not for a caveman like me.
3/16/2012 11:04:59 PM
Originally Posted By eeke:
NOT GREASE –– ANTISIEZE
Originally Posted By ShowMeAR15:
What kind of grease do you all use when installing a barrel on an ar-15?
What kind of grease do you all use when installing a barrel on an ar-15?
NOT GREASE –– ANTISIEZE
No, anti-seize is the wrong product to use. Especially the ones that contain graphite (a lot of them).
3/17/2012 12:13:18 AM
I use Mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease. It works fine.
3/17/2012 1:17:05 AM
I use Valvoline moly grease.
3/17/2012 7:20:03 AM
The proper material is a MOLY BEARING GREASE, the grease is only there to carry the Molybdenum
This is specified by the Military not necessarily by the manufacturer.
The ONLY reason to lube the threads is to get a proper torque spec and you should tighten and loosen the nut several times before applying the Torque.
I to this DAY have NEVER used a torque wrench on a barrel nut and none of mine have ever come loose or stopped working or damaged anything.
I have used the following lubricants on these nuts with no ill effects.
Moly Grease from a tub black in color at the auto store
Moly Grease from a TUBE (gun grease) Black in color from the auto store
Isky Cam and Lifter Lube
Sealed Power Cam and Lifter Lube
White Lithium Grease
Mobile wheel bearing grease
30 Weight Oil
CLP
Anti Seize (Graphite or not is immaterial Anti Seize is typically the CORRECT lube for dissimilar material threads Steel nut, Aluminum Receiver)
Nickel Anti Seize and Copper Anti Seize and the Silver Antiseize that you will still find fingerprinting stuff 10 YEARS after having used it ONE time
This is specified by the Military not necessarily by the manufacturer.
The ONLY reason to lube the threads is to get a proper torque spec and you should tighten and loosen the nut several times before applying the Torque.
I to this DAY have NEVER used a torque wrench on a barrel nut and none of mine have ever come loose or stopped working or damaged anything.
I have used the following lubricants on these nuts with no ill effects.
Moly Grease from a tub black in color at the auto store
Moly Grease from a TUBE (gun grease) Black in color from the auto store
Isky Cam and Lifter Lube
Sealed Power Cam and Lifter Lube
White Lithium Grease
Mobile wheel bearing grease
30 Weight Oil
CLP
Anti Seize (Graphite or not is immaterial Anti Seize is typically the CORRECT lube for dissimilar material threads Steel nut, Aluminum Receiver)
Nickel Anti Seize and Copper Anti Seize and the Silver Antiseize that you will still find fingerprinting stuff 10 YEARS after having used it ONE time
3/17/2012 9:05:37 AM
thank you for all the input guys
3/17/2012 9:37:31 AM
Local to St. Louis...
http://www.schaefferoil.com/moly-ultra-red-grease.html
... I'm guessing that one tube would be good for about 500 AR barrel applications...
http://www.schaefferoil.com/moly-ultra-red-grease.html
... I'm guessing that one tube would be good for about 500 AR barrel applications...
3/17/2012 4:51:04 PM
I use hi-temp wheel bearing grease or whatever else I may have on hand.
Many folks overthink this stuff...
Many folks overthink this stuff...
3/17/2012 5:26:09 PM
Originally Posted By 1MAC:
No, anti-seize is the wrong product to use. Especially the ones that contain graphite (a lot of them).
Originally Posted By eeke:
NOT GREASE –– ANTISIEZE
Originally Posted By ShowMeAR15:
What kind of grease do you all use when installing a barrel on an ar-15?
What kind of grease do you all use when installing a barrel on an ar-15?
NOT GREASE –– ANTISIEZE
No, anti-seize is the wrong product to use. Especially the ones that contain graphite (a lot of them).
i STILL STAND BY MY COMMENT ––- ANTISEIZE !!!!!
Grease sometimes has a tendency to melt off or run when hot –– like firing ammo
Find me a grease can that says "Use this on Threads"
That is what antisieze was designed for
3/17/2012 7:14:09 PM
Originally Posted By eeke:
i STILL STAND BY MY COMMENT ––- ANTISEIZE !!!!!
Grease sometimes has a tendency to melt off or run when hot –– like firing ammo
Find me a grease can that says "Use this on Threads"
That is what antisieze was designed for
Originally Posted By 1MAC:
No, anti-seize is the wrong product to use. Especially the ones that contain graphite (a lot of them).
Originally Posted By eeke:
NOT GREASE –– ANTISIEZE
Originally Posted By ShowMeAR15:
What kind of grease do you all use when installing a barrel on an ar-15?
What kind of grease do you all use when installing a barrel on an ar-15?
NOT GREASE –– ANTISIEZE
No, anti-seize is the wrong product to use. Especially the ones that contain graphite (a lot of them).
i STILL STAND BY MY COMMENT ––- ANTISEIZE !!!!!
Grease sometimes has a tendency to melt off or run when hot –– like firing ammo
Find me a grease can that says "Use this on Threads"
That is what antisieze was designed for
True BUT per
TM-05538C-23&P/2-Rifle, 5.56mm, M16A2 W/E 1005-01-128-9936
Page 3-32
NOTE
After Cleaning, apply molybdenum disulfide grease (Item 15 Appendix D) to threads of barrel nut assembly before installation.
Item 15 Appendix D is a LEVEL F (intermediate maintenance) item NSN 9150-00-754-2595 GREASE, MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE: (81349) MIL-G-21164
MIL-G-21164D: Grease, Molybdenum Disulfide, for Low & High Temperatures, NATO Code# G-353. This specification covers the requirements for one grade of low and high temperature molybdenum disulfide grease for use as a lubricant on heavily loaded sliding steel surfaces. This grease is identified by NATO Symbol G-353, Military Symbol GMD.
Our part #:
MIL-G-21164D-P
MIL-G-21164D-Q
MIL-G-21164D-G
MIL-G-21164D-PL
MIL-G-21164D-D
MIL-G-21164 Grease, Molybdenum Disulfide [GMD]
9150-00-935-4018 14 oz cartridge
9150-00-754-2595 1.75 lb can
9150-00-223-4004 6.5 lb can
9150-00-965-2003 35 lb can
MIL-G-21164 ROYCO 64 ASG 17 BRAYCOTE 664 BEACON Q2
ROYCO 64
SYNTHETIC GREASE FOR HIGH AND LOW TEMPERATURE
MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE, LITHIUM BASE
GENERAL INFORMATION:
ROYCO 64 is a lithium-12 hydroxy stearate thickened grease formulated with micro-fine molybdenum disulfide and a thermally stable ester based synthetic oil. Modem additives are utilized to provide high load carrying, rust and oxidation protection, EP performance, and shear stability. Microfine particles of “Moly” adhere and penetrate metal surfaces thereby providing lubrication and antiseize protection even when the oil component is removed or there is a possibility of inadequate lubrication due to mechanical spread out of the lubricant.
APPLICATIONS:
ROYCO 64 is designed for use on sliding steel on steel surfaces and low to moderate speed antifriction bearings carrying high unit loads. ROYCO 64 is especially recommended for use in extreme low temperature (-1000F) and high temperatures up to 275°F.
TYPICAL PROPERTIES: PROPERTIES
Kinematic Viscosity, cSt (Base oil)
@ 100°C
@ 40°C
Flash Point, °F(°C)
Molybdenum Disulfide, wt. %
Penetration
Unworked
Worked
Worked Stability, 100,000 strokes
Dropping Point, °F(°C)
Copper Corrosion
Evaporation, % wt.
Oil Separation, %. 30 hrs, 100°C
Low Temperature Torque, NM, -73°C
Starting
Running
Load Wear Index
TEST METHOD
ASTM D-445
ASTM D-92
Report
ASTM D-1403
FTM 313
ASTM D-2265
ASTM D-4048
ASTM D-2595
FTM 321
ASTM D-1478
ASTM D-2596 ROYCO 64
2.7
9.1
415 (213)
5.0
272
282
304
387(197)
1b
0.75
3.1
0.32
0.03
55
ADVANTAGES:
• Meets California Clean Air Act VOC requirements
• Enhanced film strength to minimize wear
• Penetrates metal surfaces
• Aids in the removal of dirt and corrosion particles
• Forms a thin protective layer preventing future corrosion
ADVANTAGES:
• Wide operating temperature range
• Prevents rust and oxidation
• Additives provide high load carrying properties
• Excellent anti-seize protection
COMPATABILITY:
ROYCO 64 should not be used in high-speed antifriction bearings without prior evaluation. The persistence of the molybdenum disulfide and the high penetrating properties of the synthetic base oil make this material difficult to remove from surfaces. In addition, the synthetic oil in ROYCO 64 may soften natural rubber and neoprene as well as some paints.
APPROVALS:
ROYCO 64 meets all requirements of MIL-G-21164 (MIL-G-21164D.)
Short and simple? Moly Wheel Bearing Grease
3/17/2012 7:17:21 PM
that looks mighty tasty
3/17/2012 7:26:02 PM
I've always used grease on AR's and anti-seize on FAL's. Don't really know why, just what I was taught.
In both instances, they're probably interchangeable.
In both instances, they're probably interchangeable.
3/17/2012 8:58:57 PM
I would have absolutely no problem using grease, anti seize, or in the worst case scenario even just some oil.
Its just two parts that don't move...
Its just two parts that don't move...
3/17/2012 11:54:24 PM
I use some Sinclair bolt grease that I suspect is Mobil 1 grease.
3/18/2012 11:24:31 AM
Well I ended up using some Royal Purple since I had some on hand.
3/18/2012 12:53:26 PM
I bought this jar in 2002. I've used it on every AR barrel I've installed since then and just about anything else I've used grease for.
3/18/2012 10:02:09 PM
Originally Posted By lambo:
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq293/badka2ma/2012-03-18_11-31-17_618.jpg
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq293/badka2ma/2012-03-18_11-39-21_859.jpg
I bought this jar in 2002. I've used it on every AR barrel I've installed since then and just about anything else I've used grease for.
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq293/badka2ma/2012-03-18_11-31-17_618.jpg
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq293/badka2ma/2012-03-18_11-39-21_859.jpg
I bought this jar in 2002. I've used it on every AR barrel I've installed since then and just about anything else I've used grease for.
Same stuff I use.
3/19/2012 1:09:53 PM
I have a jar of Valvoline full-synthetic grease that is old enough (bought it in the late 80's/early 90's) that it's "settling" and the oil is weeping out from the bottom of the paper container making it drier/grainier. I dunno, my amortization spreadsheet says it may be time to invest another $5. Dang, inflation got me. The SynPower grease is up to almost $9 for a pound tub. Let me input that into my spreadsheet and see if I can afford it over time.
I went ahead and used some of it this morning at 0:dark-thirty to reinstall a dedicated .22lr barrel, again. Hopefully it takes.
I went ahead and used some of it this morning at 0:dark-thirty to reinstall a dedicated .22lr barrel, again. Hopefully it takes.
