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Any M1 Garand gurus around?
11/13/2011 4:56:36 PM
I picked up an IHC Garand about a year ago, and it's been sitting ever since. I don't know the first thing about these fine guns, and was hoping that some Garand Guru would be willing to give me a little of their time - sit down with me, go over the gun, check the headspace and generally tell me just what the heck I've bought. 
Got some en bloc clips last week, along with some ammo and I'd like to actually *shoot* the thing, you know? =)
Any members in the Cities who would be able and willing to lend me some knowledge?
Thanks in advance for any and all assistance.
Got some en bloc clips last week, along with some ammo and I'd like to actually *shoot* the thing, you know? =)
Any members in the Cities who would be able and willing to lend me some knowledge?
Thanks in advance for any and all assistance.
11/13/2011 7:28:06 PM
i wouldnt consider myself a "guru" on garands, but i own a couple and could go over the basics with you. I wouldnt worry about headspacing unless the empty cases are coming out bulged or cracked.
as for the ammo, we better make sure its Garand-safe. some ammo can have the wrong pressure curve when the powder burns and *can* cause damage to the operating rod.
what part of the twin cities are you in?
as for the ammo, we better make sure its Garand-safe. some ammo can have the wrong pressure curve when the powder burns and *can* cause damage to the operating rod.
what part of the twin cities are you in?
11/13/2011 10:38:06 PM
Hey, thanks for the reply.
I'm over in St. Paul, near Uni & Dale. But I'd gladly travel to your locale, if you're not too far out of range.. it's kind of hard to find a place to work on anything around my house, these days.
I've never fired the M1, so wouldn't know what the cases look like. The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
I'm over in St. Paul, near Uni & Dale. But I'd gladly travel to your locale, if you're not too far out of range.. it's kind of hard to find a place to work on anything around my house, these days.
I've never fired the M1, so wouldn't know what the cases look like. The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
11/13/2011 11:25:41 PM
also, if its the clips from sportsmans guide, they prolly wont work.
i have a bag of 20 or so that are junk.
i have a bag of 20 or so that are junk.
11/13/2011 11:39:37 PM
Originally Posted By J75player:
also, if its the clips from sportsmans guide, they prolly wont work.
i have a bag of 20 or so that are junk.
also, if its the clips from sportsmans guide, they prolly wont work.
i have a bag of 20 or so that are junk.
I dunno about those, but thanks for the heads-up. I bought 20 clips from a member of one of the gun boards, and they seem to work just fine. They're finished in some kind of blackish park, and have letters in a circle on the rear.
$0.75/ea plus shipping made 20 clips for $20.. They're probably a lot cheaper somewhere else, but this was expedient, the money went to a board member, and the clips are like brand-spanking new.
11/14/2011 8:56:18 AM
Originally Posted By Legendre:
Hey, thanks for the reply.
I'm over in St. Paul, near Uni & Dale. But I'd gladly travel to your locale, if you're not too far out of range.. it's kind of hard to find a place to work on anything around my house, these days.
I've never fired the M1, so wouldn't know what the cases look like. The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
Hey, thanks for the reply.
I'm over in St. Paul, near Uni & Dale. But I'd gladly travel to your locale, if you're not too far out of range.. it's kind of hard to find a place to work on anything around my house, these days.
I've never fired the M1, so wouldn't know what the cases look like. The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
that doesnt sound good
11/14/2011 9:05:24 AM
Originally Posted By builttoughf250:
that doesnt sound good
Originally Posted By Legendre:
I've never fired the M1, so wouldn't know what the cases look like. The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
I've never fired the M1, so wouldn't know what the cases look like. The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
that doesnt sound good
I'm over in St. Paul, near Uni & Dale.
Neither does that
11/16/2011 12:06:50 AM
Originally Posted By Legendre:
The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
I have a 91/30 with that same problem...
11/16/2011 12:28:15 AM
Originally Posted By Gingerbreadman:
I have a 91/30 with that same problem...
Originally Posted By Legendre:
The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
I have a 91/30 with that same problem...
91/30s were *often* counter bored. if the crown was so bad it wrecked accuracy they would be drilled out basically, to make a new crown farther into the muzzle. this is NOT so common with M1 Garands, i believe the U.S. military preferred to just change the barrel but i may be wrong.
you are better to have a counter bored barrel, than to have a barrel that needs to be counter bored. but either way, nothings guaranteed when it comes to accuracy.
11/16/2011 1:21:20 AM
Originally Posted By builttoughf250:
91/30s were *often* counter bored. if the crown was so bad it wrecked accuracy they would be drilled out basically, to make a new crown farther into the muzzle. this is NOT so common with M1 Garands, i believe the U.S. military preferred to just change the barrel but i may be wrong.
Originally Posted By Gingerbreadman:
I have a 91/30 with that same problem...
Originally Posted By Legendre:
The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
I have a 91/30 with that same problem...
91/30s were *often* counter bored. if the crown was so bad it wrecked accuracy they would be drilled out basically, to make a new crown farther into the muzzle. this is NOT so common with M1 Garands, i believe the U.S. military preferred to just change the barrel but i may be wrong.
I think they counterbored a lot of the Mosin rifles, whether they needed it or not.. =/
But I don't think it's practical on the M1. Isn't the gas port pretty close to the muzzle?
Speaking of which, I just noticed yesterday that the long, cylindrical portion of the operating rod is all wavy and warped. Nothing horrible, but it sure isn't straight! I see that at least one firm offers repair and rebuilding work, but I have the sense that I won't be owning this gun long enough to make it worth the while. Based on a few comments I've received (here and elsewhere), it might make the most sense to just sell or trade it off for a ready-to-rock shooter.
I don't collect M1 rifles, nor do I place any premium on owning one with real collector value. I just wanted a solid shooter, and that's where I want to end up.
11/16/2011 7:29:05 AM
Originally Posted By Legendre:
I think they counterbored a lot of the Mosin rifles, whether they needed it or not.. =/
But I don't think it's practical on the M1. Isn't the gas port pretty close to the muzzle?
Speaking of which, I just noticed yesterday that the long, cylindrical portion of the operating rod is all wavy and warped. Nothing horrible, but it sure isn't straight! I see that at least one firm offers repair and rebuilding work, but I have the sense that I won't be owning this gun long enough to make it worth the while. Based on a few comments I've received (here and elsewhere), it might make the most sense to just sell or trade it off for a ready-to-rock shooter.
I don't collect M1 rifles, nor do I place any premium on owning one with real collector value. I just wanted a solid shooter, and that's where I want to end up.
Originally Posted By builttoughf250:
91/30s were *often* counter bored. if the crown was so bad it wrecked accuracy they would be drilled out basically, to make a new crown farther into the muzzle. this is NOT so common with M1 Garands, i believe the U.S. military preferred to just change the barrel but i may be wrong.
Originally Posted By Gingerbreadman:
I have a 91/30 with that same problem...
Originally Posted By Legendre:
The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
I have a 91/30 with that same problem...
91/30s were *often* counter bored. if the crown was so bad it wrecked accuracy they would be drilled out basically, to make a new crown farther into the muzzle. this is NOT so common with M1 Garands, i believe the U.S. military preferred to just change the barrel but i may be wrong.
I think they counterbored a lot of the Mosin rifles, whether they needed it or not.. =/
But I don't think it's practical on the M1. Isn't the gas port pretty close to the muzzle?
Speaking of which, I just noticed yesterday that the long, cylindrical portion of the operating rod is all wavy and warped. Nothing horrible, but it sure isn't straight! I see that at least one firm offers repair and rebuilding work, but I have the sense that I won't be owning this gun long enough to make it worth the while. Based on a few comments I've received (here and elsewhere), it might make the most sense to just sell or trade it off for a ready-to-rock shooter.
I don't collect M1 rifles, nor do I place any premium on owning one with real collector value. I just wanted a solid shooter, and that's where I want to end up.
I have no experience with M1's whatsoever, but wouldn't you be able to fix or replace the parts that need replacing fairly easily, with better parts or new even for a fairly inexpensive amount and have a nice ready to rock shooter?
Or are you trying to find a matching # one that is in nice condition already?
11/16/2011 8:41:27 AM
I have a HRA Garand where the '06 barrel had been shot out. Springfield Armory replaced it with a .308 barrel for about $200 total. Installed an adjustable gas plug and now I can shoot pretty much any .308 out there. Easy to find ammo and lots of fun.
11/17/2011 6:34:19 AM
Originally Posted By Legendre:
I think they counterbored a lot of the Mosin rifles, whether they needed it or not.. =/
But I don't think it's practical on the M1. Isn't the gas port pretty close to the muzzle?
Speaking of which, I just noticed yesterday that the long, cylindrical portion of the operating rod is all wavy and warped. Nothing horrible, but it sure isn't straight! I see that at least one firm offers repair and rebuilding work, but I have the sense that I won't be owning this gun long enough to make it worth the while. Based on a few comments I've received (here and elsewhere), it might make the most sense to just sell or trade it off for a ready-to-rock shooter.
I don't collect M1 rifles, nor do I place any premium on owning one with real collector value. I just wanted a solid shooter, and that's where I want to end up.
Originally Posted By builttoughf250:
91/30s were *often* counter bored. if the crown was so bad it wrecked accuracy they would be drilled out basically, to make a new crown farther into the muzzle. this is NOT so common with M1 Garands, i believe the U.S. military preferred to just change the barrel but i may be wrong.
Originally Posted By Gingerbreadman:
I have a 91/30 with that same problem...
Originally Posted By Legendre:
The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
The muzzle wear may be from cleaning, as there seems to be pretty decent rifling that starts just 1" down from the crown.
I have a 91/30 with that same problem...
91/30s were *often* counter bored. if the crown was so bad it wrecked accuracy they would be drilled out basically, to make a new crown farther into the muzzle. this is NOT so common with M1 Garands, i believe the U.S. military preferred to just change the barrel but i may be wrong.
I think they counterbored a lot of the Mosin rifles, whether they needed it or not.. =/
But I don't think it's practical on the M1. Isn't the gas port pretty close to the muzzle?
Speaking of which, I just noticed yesterday that the long, cylindrical portion of the operating rod is all wavy and warped. Nothing horrible, but it sure isn't straight! I see that at least one firm offers repair and rebuilding work, but I have the sense that I won't be owning this gun long enough to make it worth the while. Based on a few comments I've received (here and elsewhere), it might make the most sense to just sell or trade it off for a ready-to-rock shooter.
I don't collect M1 rifles, nor do I place any premium on owning one with real collector value. I just wanted a solid shooter, and that's where I want to end up.
The op rod is not straight per say. You need a gauge to see if it is in spec. They have several bends. The only real way to tell without a gauge is to perform a tilt test and shoot it and see if it functions. I'll see if I can dig up some links for you when I have more time. M1 rifles are pretty easy to work on and check out once you figure out how they work.
11/21/2011 12:04:41 PM
On mine, the curves / warpage is in the tubular section. I sort of assumed that this is supposed to be a straight, cylindrical part - but you're saying that it's *probably* supposed to appear like this?
11/21/2011 12:15:32 PM
Does having your thumb mashed a couple times count you as a guru?
11/21/2011 10:21:51 PM
Originally Posted By Legendre:
On mine, the curves / warpage is in the tubular section. I sort of assumed that this is supposed to be a straight, cylindrical part - but you're saying that it's *probably* supposed to appear like this?
On mine, the curves / warpage is in the tubular section. I sort of assumed that this is supposed to be a straight, cylindrical part - but you're saying that it's *probably* supposed to appear like this?
There are some good detailed instructions on field striping and maintenance on http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/. I also found a print of the op rod from an old post on another forum by clancy here. To do a tilt test you assemble the rifle minus the trigger group and recoil spring. The action should function freely by tilting the rifle no more than 45 degrees in either direction. A google search will bring up all kinds of videos and information, but that's the short of it.
