Archived Posts » 59,789,155
Going to shoot my ptr gi on Sat.......
1/27/2012 1:20:32 AM
Ok, total newb in the ptr arena, and I want to know what I should do on initial cleaning before I take the Gi out to the range. I know what ptr says but I was wondering what you guys think. Example, total breakdown, degrease, lightly oil it back up, or snake it then let her rip.
1/27/2012 2:20:08 AM
Run a patch through the bore to be sure it's clear. Put some grease on the rails where the BC rides, on the recoil spring where it rides inside the BC, on the underside of the BC, a dab on the face of the hammer, around the nose (front) of the BC where it rides in the charging handle tube and in the charging handle lock-back notch. Rub a little oil (just a small drop smeared around with your finger) onto the rollers. The G3/91 is a really robust system that will run reliably even when really, really dirty.
Shoot it. A lot.
Once the rifle starts to wear-in, the shiny spots on the BC and inside the receiver will tell you where you need to concentrate your future lubricating efforts.
Shoot it. A lot.
Once the rifle starts to wear-in, the shiny spots on the BC and inside the receiver will tell you where you need to concentrate your future lubricating efforts.
1/27/2012 11:14:14 PM
Don't plan on recovering many casings. They get beat up and if your rifle shoots well it will fling cases 20 feet. Always remember to never put your off hand over the ejection port.
I promise you it's a mistake you only make once.
I promise you it's a mistake you only make once.
1/28/2012 1:32:52 PM
Yup. The G3/91 is the only weapon that can inflict damage on more than one target that are not standing front to back with each other. 
1/28/2012 11:31:34 PM
Some on the GI's had trunnion problems,
So on that note, take a B/C reading, and around the 500 round mark , take another B/C reading (should be less than .002 difference as the barrel settles in to the trunnion and against the cross pin), and check the trunnion for cracks under the forearm.
As for checking B/C gap, rifle empty, slap the charging handle and let the bolt slam home, Now using a feeler gauge, check the distance between the back of the bolt,and the front of the carrier up through the mag well. The gap should be in the .012 to .016 range, and as stated, with some live fire, the barrel is going to settle in a tad forward in the trunnion/ tighter forward against the cross pin, and should end up with a gap about .002 smaller after that.
And, when you are tired of getting beat up by the rifle,change of the buffer to a heaver unit (the on in the butt stock, and yes, you may need to make a back bolting shim and even over size the stock buffer channel to get the heaver buffer to fit correctly.
So on that note, take a B/C reading, and around the 500 round mark , take another B/C reading (should be less than .002 difference as the barrel settles in to the trunnion and against the cross pin), and check the trunnion for cracks under the forearm.
As for checking B/C gap, rifle empty, slap the charging handle and let the bolt slam home, Now using a feeler gauge, check the distance between the back of the bolt,and the front of the carrier up through the mag well. The gap should be in the .012 to .016 range, and as stated, with some live fire, the barrel is going to settle in a tad forward in the trunnion/ tighter forward against the cross pin, and should end up with a gap about .002 smaller after that.
And, when you are tired of getting beat up by the rifle,change of the buffer to a heaver unit (the on in the butt stock, and yes, you may need to make a back bolting shim and even over size the stock buffer channel to get the heaver buffer to fit correctly.
1/29/2012 12:58:03 AM
Originally Posted By Dano523:
Some on the GI's had trunnion problems,
So on that note, take a B/C reading, and around the 500 round mark , take another B/C reading (should be less than .002 difference as the barrel settles in to the trunnion and against the cross pin), and check the trunnion for cracks under the forearm.
As for checking B/C gap, rifle empty, slap the charging handle and let the bolt slam home, Now using a feeler gauge, check the distance between the back of the bolt,and the front of the carrier up through the mag well. The gap should be in the .012 to .016 range, and as stated, with some live fire, the barrel is going to settle in a tad forward in the trunnion/ tighter forward against the cross pin, and should end up with a gap about .002 smaller after that.
And, when you are tired of getting beat up by the rifle,change of the buffer to a heaver unit (the on in the butt stock, and yes, you may need to make a back bolting shim and even over size the stock buffer channel to get the heaver buffer to fit correctly.
The correct procedure is to pull the trigger & drop the hammer after letting the BC slam home, then measure the bolt gap. It does make a difference.Some on the GI's had trunnion problems,
So on that note, take a B/C reading, and around the 500 round mark , take another B/C reading (should be less than .002 difference as the barrel settles in to the trunnion and against the cross pin), and check the trunnion for cracks under the forearm.
As for checking B/C gap, rifle empty, slap the charging handle and let the bolt slam home, Now using a feeler gauge, check the distance between the back of the bolt,and the front of the carrier up through the mag well. The gap should be in the .012 to .016 range, and as stated, with some live fire, the barrel is going to settle in a tad forward in the trunnion/ tighter forward against the cross pin, and should end up with a gap about .002 smaller after that.
And, when you are tired of getting beat up by the rifle,change of the buffer to a heaver unit (the on in the butt stock, and yes, you may need to make a back bolting shim and even over size the stock buffer channel to get the heaver buffer to fit correctly.
2/5/2012 8:27:56 AM
Be ready to cuss about the trigger. Then check out http://www.williamstriggers.com/
World of difference
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
World of difference
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
2/5/2012 4:20:51 PM
What he said.
Please accept my recommendation to send your trigger pack to Williams and have him do his wonderful $125 "Contoured" trigger job on it. I guarantee it will be the best money you spend on that rifle and you will not be sorry!
Please accept my recommendation to send your trigger pack to Williams and have him do his wonderful $125 "Contoured" trigger job on it. I guarantee it will be the best money you spend on that rifle and you will not be sorry!
2/5/2012 8:08:25 PM
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Run a patch through the bore to be sure it's clear. Put some grease on the rails where the BC rides, on the recoil spring where it rides inside the BC, on the underside of the BC, a dab on the face of the hammer, around the nose (front) of the BC where it rides in the charging handle tube and in the charging handle lock-back notch. Rub a little oil (just a small drop smeared around with your finger) onto the rollers. The G3/91 is a really robust system that will run reliably even when really, really dirty.
Shoot it. A lot.
Once the rifle starts to wear-in, the shiny spots on the BC and inside the receiver will tell you where you need to concentrate your future lubricating efforts.
Run a patch through the bore to be sure it's clear. Put some grease on the rails where the BC rides, on the recoil spring where it rides inside the BC, on the underside of the BC, a dab on the face of the hammer, around the nose (front) of the BC where it rides in the charging handle tube and in the charging handle lock-back notch. Rub a little oil (just a small drop smeared around with your finger) onto the rollers. The G3/91 is a really robust system that will run reliably even when really, really dirty.
Shoot it. A lot.
Once the rifle starts to wear-in, the shiny spots on the BC and inside the receiver will tell you where you need to concentrate your future lubricating efforts.
Great advice.
