Reloading newbee to AR-15

Do you work loads up the same way as say a bolt action rifle? Wandering how you tell if your headspace is too much or when getting close to max pressure? Have a DPMS 16" 1/9 twist and will be loading 55 FMJBT Bullets and brass will be mostly RP,FC,LC once fired brass. Primers are going to be Wolf 5.56 Magnum primers from Wideners. Trying to decide poweder to purchase right now

Guess needing tips/load recommendations.

Asking for load help on web is poor practice.

Two things you need.

1.) Load Manuals.

2.) Head space gage.

Am often tempted to start KB thread when reading a post like yours. But hey, I'm not your dad, brother, or safety police. Carry on.


eta, just checked your post count.

Allow me to start over, please. Welcome to reloading forum.

Above advice is good, read tutorials at top and get yourself Lyman #49 reloading manual. Powder recommendations can be gotten from both bullet and powder makers. Phone numbers are on their websites.

I like Hodgdons powder for newcomers. Hodgdons provides the best customer support. 2nd for support is Sierra.

Load safe and Best Wishes,

david clark

Yep, work them up just like any other cartridge. Some say to use short base dies in a Semi-auto instead of standard dies...I've never had to. Ramshot TAC and RL15 seem very popular in AR 5.56's. I use Varget myself...since most of the bullets I use are in the 69gr and above area.

I'm not sure why you picked magnum primers, but since you did, be sure to work them up from the 10% of max.

was reccomended to use those primers since they are harder cup and will help reduce risk of slam fires.

Work up loads like you would for any other gun, and use all the same safe reloading practices.

Headspace isn't as much an issue with AR's. The important thing is the get your dies set up so that you're sizing enough for a round to chamber and you'll typically be loading to mag length and shorter.

That's why we use headspace gage, so we know how to adjust dies. Headspacing from chamber is fine if chambered to SAAMI.

Sizer die set up is the most common issue posted by those new to loading AR.

Headspace gage speeds more than just one task. It's an invaluable quick check tool for brass length and feed ability. All my rifle cartridges get quick checked with gage before stored.

ok i have the hornady gage bushing body and a caliper for my 308 so i just need to get bushing for 223.

There is nothing magical about setting up your FL sizer die. Raise the ram, screw the die in until it touches the shell holder, then give it another 1/8" turn or so. If you have to adjust the sizing die to match your chamber...send the rifle back to where you got it. The chamber is either fubar or the bolt is crap.It is also possible a couple of monkeys installed the barrel extension .

It should be able to shoot ANY off the shelf ammo with out any headspacing issues, if it can do that, full length size the bitches and continue on

You don't need to get into any precision half sizing or neck sizing unless shooting match grade ammo in a bolt action.

If you built the rifle from parts...yes, check the headspace .

Also beware...not all shell holders are the same....be careful mix and matching brands of dies and shell holders. I had a set of Hornady dies that didn't agree my RCBS shell holder and the rounds chambered hard in my 243 bolt action. A Hornady shell holder corrected the condition.

The answer to your first question is, "Yes".

The cases need to be sized for an auto loader, but not necessarily sized to the same headspace as factory ammunition or the headspace that will be yielded by using a fixed drop in case gage. I set shoulders back 0.002 inches. The fixed gages I have used cause the die to be set to produce 0.008 inches of headspace, and that number is generally used as the rule of thumb all around.

Pressure signs will be similar, except AR's will add extractor swipes and ejector dents in the case head when pressure gets obnoxious. I recommend reading through the tacked "Gateway" thread, you'll find an exellent article there about interpreting pressure signs.

You did good, gage also gives a heads up on brass that's work hardened. You catch it before you load it. Figure whether you intend to anneal or pitch brass. Set a number for either choice.

OP: This reply is why it is not a good idea to get advice on the web. This forum has a lot of people with a lot of knowledge. The more that you read and learn from manuals and experience, the more you will understand what people are posting.
Hawcer: Don't take offense to my remarks. They are dangerous if someone doesn't have the base knowledge from manuals like "ABC's of reloading" or Lyman 49th (etc.)

There are a few threads on this forum addressing pressure issues. Headspace is only one factor that affects pressure. As you work up a load, you will notice several things that change when the pressure increases. Low charges will kick the brass out a short way and may have some soot on the cases. As the charge increases you will notice the extra force on the gun parts and the brass will kick out farther. I have noticed that it will also hit the deflector and pitch out to a different spot. The primer should start to tell you when you are getting too high pressure. Look for threads where people have posted pics of primers that are flattening or backing out. I have a RRA 16" 1:9. I have been trying different bullets and powders. I really like 8208 XBR powder. I would recommend it to work up a load. TAC and Re-15 are also popular.

What kind of press are you using? It sounds like you are experienced at reloading for your .308 in a bolt gun. What process are you using now for that caliber? It won't be much different when you load for .223.

Lee Breech Lock Press with Lee Deluxe Dies. Procedure: I use fireformed brass and then trim all cases to 2.005" everytime, chamfer/deburr, clean the primer pockets each time,and also debureed flash holes. Use the Collet Die but if chambering gets tight I FL Size to 1.624" headspace. Seat bullets to 2.800" COAL and using RL-15 with CCI LR Primers. I am also using Dan Newberrys OCW load development

I just never loaded for AR-15 and 308 was my first cartridge loading for.

If you got Wolf #KVB556M Magnum primers, those are the correct primers for 223.

Ramshot doesnt have Hndy 55gr FMJ in their load data. Also my gun is 16" barrel vs longer ones tested so I need to start lighter than posted charges I believe.

Absolutely, 1000% not true. You should use published load data. Your 16 inch gun will produce less muzzle velocity due to the short barrel. Everything else is the same.

Some combinations of gunpowder, bullet weight, and light powder charge can cause very high chamber pressure, high enough to destroy a rifle. This is generally not a problem in AR's, but there is always someone that thinks they know better and somehow figures out how to destroy equipment.

What you have to do is pay attention to the details in the load data, and get some experience. You've read a lot of BS on line and you don't have sufficient experience to sort through which parts might actually be correct.

As for the load data with the Hornady bullet, you're always going to run into this problem, in which we can't exactly match the load data to the components we have on hand. There's a solution, good thing, too, otherwise none of us would be loading ammunition.

So, what you do is find load data for components that are similar to yours, especially the weight and shape of the bullet, the primer, and the gunpowder. Then study the data, every detail such as cartridge overall length, primer, and so on. Find the maximum charge weight for the gunpowder you want to load. Calculate the charge weight that is 10% less than the maximum, and use that as your starting charge weight, unless it is less than the minimum charge weight in the published load data. In that case, start with the minimum charge weight.

You'll also find that the load data from different sources doesn't agree. There's a way around that complication, too, but I'll leave that for later. There might be a write up in the FAQ's, Tutorials, or Gateway thread, I don't recall right now. In any case, it won't hurt you to read through that stuff.

thanks, I actually found that part out about using published data no matter what barrel length and just the velocity will be less. I will definately work up just like I did my 308 just slightly nervous about the AR reloading but am taking my time doing this. Only thing is I do not have a headspace gauge yet for it and am not sure if it is sizing enough but have my FL die set to touch shell holder then 1/2 turn more into press. Die is a Lee FL sizing die with Lee shell holders. Followed instructions per manual and online Lee instructional video. Have not set my seating die up yet but will not be crimping these reloads

Size a case, wipe off lube.

how do you do that with an AR? That is the method I used in my bolt action rifle but not 100% sure how to check chambering with ar? I assume pull charging handle back slightly to be able to put empty case in and then release bolt and also make sure it ejects properly too by pulling charging handle back to eject case?

Thanks

I do this with the upper off the lower...

Drop the case into the chamber and push the carrier forward to lock the bolt in...if it locks in with minimal thumb pressure and extracts easily,you should be gtg.

note: there will be some pressure required to overcome the extractor latching over the rim...it will be more of a "snap" as the bolt locks closed.

Ok did this and I believe they are correct. Tried a non sized case and bolt would not close at all. Tried my FL sized brass and had to apply slight pressure then bolt closed and "popped" sound and was closed. Sounds like I should be gtg. I am assuming the ammount of pressure required to close it was not too much or else I may need to size slightly more.

Also...once the extractor is past the rim...the case should slide in and out of the chamber without much effort at all while pushing and pulling on the bcg.

Can someone help me with this.......FL sized brass and seated a dummy round no powder and it fits in my magazine. OAL is measuring 2.224". When I chamber it it does fine feels and appears normal. When trying to extract that round it does not want to extract(almost gets completely stuck). This is with the magazine in. When I take magazine out and lock bolt back and chamber by hand then drop bolt and try to extract they work fine....... Any ideas or suggestions here?

Thanks everyone for the help

The case isn't sized quite enough, the shoulder needs to be set back another thousandth or so.

Turn your sizer die down one sixteenth of a turn. Add some lube inside the case mouth if you haven't done that so far.

VLD chamfering tool vs regular chamfering tools? Looking at the RCBS or Lyman VLD with handle or the LE Wilson chamfer/deburr tool. Any thoughts? Anything will be improvement from my LEE chamfer/deburr tool that came in my press kit

Thanks for the advice everyone

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