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 How do you adjust the Expander/Decapping Rod on the Full Length Sizer/Decapping Die?
lear60pilot  [Member]
4/8/2009 9:59:53 PM
I have RCBS Rockchucker with the 2 Die FL set for 223. I am all set up to start reloading. I am going through and reading all the directions and I am stuck on this step below.

I have screwed the die into the press and have made sure that the play is removed by adjusting the die 1/8 to 1/4 turn further down.

The instructions say that the decapping pin must be at least 3/16" below the end of the die which it is when the nut is tightened all the way down.

It also says that the expander-decapping pin are adjusted by loosening the small lock nut at the top of the die.

When I loosen the nut, the entire decapping rod turns with the nut and the piece below the nut.

Is the nut suppose to move seperatley from the rod and the piece below it? I can't get it to move off of the finger nut piece below the adjustment nut.

When would you adjust this nut? I am assuming to adjust the case headspace when resizing. If you adjust the nut, do you just leave it loose?

I have a precision MIC for 223 so I will eventually be fine tuning for my rifle after measuring fired cases. But for now what is the initial setting to set the rod to start resizing brass? Do you just screw it all the way down?

The RCBS Directions aren't very detailed and are kind of vague.

Thanks!!!
kingston_fisher  [Team Member]
4/8/2009 10:15:47 PM
As long as the decapping pin is assembled correctly the expander will be in the correct position within the die body if there is ~3/16" of the decapping pin extending from the bottom of the die. (or 3/16" from the tip of the pin to the mouth of the die)

lear60pilot  [Member]
4/8/2009 10:23:37 PM
Originally Posted By kingston_fisher:
As long as the decapping pin is assembled correctly the expander will be in the correct position within the die body if there is ~3/16" of the decapping pin extending from the bottom of the die. (or 3/16" from the tip of the pin to the mouth of the die)



When you say '"decapping pin is assembled correctly"? Do you mean assembled correctly from the factory? There is nothing the assemble on the user end.

Thanks!!
fixit  [Member]
4/8/2009 10:40:24 PM
Why undersize your brass at all. Stick a piece in the chamber and see if it closes easily. If it does, don't bump the shoulder back at all. And yes, your die should have come assemble with the
expander installed. And , the die adjusts the headspace, not the expander assembly.
chewbacca  [Team Member]
4/8/2009 10:59:12 PM
tag
kingston_fisher  [Team Member]
4/8/2009 10:59:45 PM
Originally Posted By lear60pilot:
Originally Posted By kingston_fisher:
As long as the decapping pin is assembled correctly the expander will be in the correct position within the die body if there is ~3/16" of the decapping pin extending from the bottom of the die. (or 3/16" from the tip of the pin to the mouth of the die)



When you say '"decapping pin is assembled correctly"? Do you mean assembled correctly from the factory? There is nothing the assemble on the user end.

Thanks!!


RCBS decapping pins are replaceable and are not fixed to the decapping/expanding rod. The pin fits into a collet on the end of the threaded rod.
ma96782  [Team Member]
4/9/2009 2:28:07 PM
Take a close look at RCBS dies.............

http://www.gswagner.com/bigreloading/dies/dies.html

Then..........

Re-loading Die Adjustments

http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm

and...........

F/L re-sizing advice from Sinclair

http://blog.sinclairintl.com/2009/02/19/setting-up-a-full-length-sizing-die/


HTH.

Aloha, Mark

PS...........IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge for a gas gun is to gauge your re-sized brass. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads.

Examples……..

http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=REMTHT&type=store





Juicespeare1  [Member]
4/9/2009 6:59:25 PM
On those Lee dies, the sizing is adjusted by how much or how little you screw the actual die into the press in relation to the shell holder in the ram part of the press. Unscrew it a bit to not size as far down, screw down more to size further down on the brass.

Of course there are limits to how high or low you can adjust the die and affect performance.

For the Lee dies you're using in the press you're using, Lee recommends 1/8 to 1/4 more turn after hitting the shellholder.

The decapping pin can be slightly adjusted up or down in its collet but usually comes adjusted already from the factory. The decapping pin is held in place by the top collet bolt on the top of the die. What you're doing when you loosen that collet bolt is making the decapping pin loose so you can manually adjust the pin up or down by pressing up or down on the bottom of the pin (i.e. the part of the pin that actually decaps the brass).

You must then re-tighten the collet bolt or the pin will move up when you try to decap the next case.

You don't adjust the depth of the dacapping pin by using the collet bolt directly (i.e. adjusting by screwing clockwise or couterclockwise), you loosen the collet bolt and then adjust the pin manually up or down with your fingers. They are two separate pieces. You will understand if you remove the collet bolt completely and see that the decapping pin fits in the middle of the collet and only will work if you tighten the collet very tight in the die so that the decapping pin doesn't move when you try to decap a case.

I hope I've explained this well enough for you to understand.
mustangwon  [Team Member]
4/9/2009 8:54:02 PM
I think you might be over thinking this.

Take a pliers and hold the finger nut as you call it, so it doesn't turn. Then take the correct wrench for the regular nut and loosen it. This will allow you to move the decapping pin and expander that are on the spindle up or down to the correct depth. While you have the regular nut loose, tighten the finger nut to the body of the die with a pliers. The only reason to ever loosen/remove the finger nut is to remove a stuck case. It should be locked down tight. Once this is tight run the regular nut back down and "bump" tight. It doesn't need to be much. This nut is nothing more than a jam nut that locks the spindle in place. Set it and forget it.

I think this is the only problem you are having. Sounds like the connection between the regular nut and the finger nut was tighter than the finger nut and the die body.

Does this sound about right?

Hope this helps!