AR15.Com Archives
 Surface Rust on A2 steel
husker77c  [Team Member]
4/28/2013 10:28:12 AM
I bought a Bark River Bravo 1 in A2 a month or so ago. It's starting to get surface rust on the blade and on the steel sandwiched in the handle. The blade rust I imagine will come off pretty easily but what is the best way? should I spray it with WD40 when I put it away? The rust on the steel in the handle seems to be starting to pit, I can feel it with a fingernail. it was pretty heavily oiled when I bought it so do I need to oil it every time I put it away? What If I don't use it for a month like has happened now? Any suggestions?
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matt8844  [Team Member]
4/28/2013 10:45:42 AM
I have several Bark River's in A2, including a Bravo 1. I wipe them down EVERY TIME I finish using them. I then rub a little oil on any exposed steel. Any kind of oil, gun oil, tapping fluid, 30 wt., just some kind of oil. I keep an oily rag and use that to wipe it down. A2 is tough but it's kind of a pain in the ass. I've become a big fan of higher end stainless steel.
Lootie23  [Team Member]
4/28/2013 10:46:19 AM
I put a forced patina on mine with a tigerstripe design using vinegar/mustard mix. No more rust.
husker77c  [Team Member]
4/28/2013 10:50:08 AM
Originally Posted By matt8844:
I have several Bark River's in A2, including a Bravo 1. I wipe them down EVERY TIME I finish using them. I then rub a little oil on any exposed steel. Any kind of oil, gun oil, tapping fluid, 30 wt., just some kind of oil. I keep an oily rag and use that to wipe it down. A2 is tough but it's kind of a pain in the ass. I've become a big fan of higher end stainless steel.


That's what I will start doing. Thing is I haven't even used it. I bought it, put it in the sheath and it went into my backpack with my PC and other gear took it out today and the pits on the spine are already deep enough to feel with my nail. i'll take some WD and steel wool to it when I get home later today and try to at least take the rust color off of it. Expensive lesson to learn but I won't mess it up again I assure you. Thanks for the reply.
husker77c  [Team Member]
4/28/2013 10:52:38 AM
Originally Posted By Lootie23:
I put a forced patina on mine with a tigerstripe design using vinegar/mustard mix. No more rust.


I imagine I could google for the recipe on that method. Do you have any pics of the end result?

DBAR  [Member]
4/28/2013 10:40:07 PM
Originally Posted By husker77c:
Originally Posted By matt8844:
I have several Bark River's in A2, including a Bravo 1. I wipe them down EVERY TIME I finish using them. I then rub a little oil on any exposed steel. Any kind of oil, gun oil, tapping fluid, 30 wt., just some kind of oil. I keep an oily rag and use that to wipe it down. A2 is tough but it's kind of a pain in the ass. I've become a big fan of higher end stainless steel.


That's what I will start doing. Thing is I haven't even used it. I bought it, put it in the sheath and it went into my backpack with my PC and other gear took it out today and the pits on the spine are already deep enough to feel with my nail. i'll take some WD and steel wool to it when I get home later today and try to at least take the rust color off of it. Expensive lesson to learn but I won't mess it up again I assure you. Thanks for the reply.



You can send it back to Bark River Knife and Tool, and they'll do what they call a "spa" treatment. It won't cost you anything except the shipping. Ck out BRKT's web site, they explain the details there.


DBAR
matt8844  [Team Member]
4/29/2013 12:06:15 PM
Originally Posted By DBAR:
Originally Posted By husker77c:
Originally Posted By matt8844:
I have several Bark River's in A2, including a Bravo 1. I wipe them down EVERY TIME I finish using them. I then rub a little oil on any exposed steel. Any kind of oil, gun oil, tapping fluid, 30 wt., just some kind of oil. I keep an oily rag and use that to wipe it down. A2 is tough but it's kind of a pain in the ass. I've become a big fan of higher end stainless steel.


That's what I will start doing. Thing is I haven't even used it. I bought it, put it in the sheath and it went into my backpack with my PC and other gear took it out today and the pits on the spine are already deep enough to feel with my nail. i'll take some WD and steel wool to it when I get home later today and try to at least take the rust color off of it. Expensive lesson to learn but I won't mess it up again I assure you. Thanks for the reply.



You can send it back to Bark River Knife and Tool, and they'll do what they call a "spa" treatment. It won't cost you anything except the shipping. Ck out BRKT's web site, they explain the details there.


DBAR


You could do this to get it straightened out and then keep it lightly oiled in the future.
husker77c  [Team Member]
4/29/2013 6:40:45 PM
Originally Posted By matt8844:
Originally Posted By DBAR:
Originally Posted By husker77c:
Originally Posted By matt8844:
I have several Bark River's in A2, including a Bravo 1. I wipe them down EVERY TIME I finish using them. I then rub a little oil on any exposed steel. Any kind of oil, gun oil, tapping fluid, 30 wt., just some kind of oil. I keep an oily rag and use that to wipe it down. A2 is tough but it's kind of a pain in the ass. I've become a big fan of higher end stainless steel.


That's what I will start doing. Thing is I haven't even used it. I bought it, put it in the sheath and it went into my backpack with my PC and other gear took it out today and the pits on the spine are already deep enough to feel with my nail. i'll take some WD and steel wool to it when I get home later today and try to at least take the rust color off of it. Expensive lesson to learn but I won't mess it up again I assure you. Thanks for the reply.



You can send it back to Bark River Knife and Tool, and they'll do what they call a "spa" treatment. It won't cost you anything except the shipping. Ck out BRKT's web site, they explain the details there.




DBAR


You could do this to get it straightened out and then keep it lightly oiled in the future.


I may do that, they're factory is ten or so miles from where my dad lives so I may stop in there next time I'm in da UP.

wsix  [Member]
4/30/2013 2:27:05 PM
On oils. All my field knives are HC steel. All of them are used in food prep while I'm out in the bush. I use vegetable oils on my knives so that I don't poison myself or fuck up my vittles.
boricua9mm  [Member]
5/1/2013 8:45:50 AM
I did a forced tiger stripe patina on my Bravo 1, but it turned out to be somewhat pointless. With regular use and stropping & sharpening, the patina wore off and I was back to square one. Looked cool, but it wasn't really effective for a knife that was being used a lot.

Nowadays I clean it with soap & water and give it a wipe down with CLP, but I don't use mine for food prep. If food prep is a concern, then the vegetable oil or mineral oil is a good choice.



LiquidRisc81  [Member]
5/3/2013 1:52:28 PM
Originally Posted By wsix:
On oils. All my field knives are HC steel. All of them are used in food prep while I'm out in the bush. I use vegetable oils on my knives so that I don't poison myself or fuck up my vittles.


this or left over fat from cooking if your out hunting and camping. hit it with some scotchbrite to bring it back around.... really if your out in the wild, things are slow enough paced where taking a couple of minutes to clean an oil your knife after use shouldn't be an issue.. that said i like the high end stainless steels as well, here in the pnw just due to the fact i may be getting rained on for days at a time, that combined with having to live in the sheath on my hip it can make for some bad conditions in regards to rust.... during the summer months though, i have little issue
wsix  [Member]
5/3/2013 2:16:25 PM
I almost forgot a great method I just learned recently.

Paraffin wax. Works awesome, food safe, lasts a long time.
warlord  [Member]
5/3/2013 2:54:47 PM
husker77c: I use Flitz. That stuff is pretty good. If leaves behind an invisible film that prevents rest.

314-100-050WB 50 gram Flitz Polish

High Luster On Blued Steel, Aluminum, Brass, Plastic, Glass & More

Absolutely non-abrasive polish for all metals, fiberglass and most hard plastics. Removes corrosion, tarnish and discolorations. Brings finishes up to superb brightness, but its greatest asset in the gunshop is the ability to remove surface rust from blued finishes without damaging the bluing underneath. Leaves a protective film that resists further rust, corrosion, etc., for up to six months. Contains no acids.


ETA: it is possibly available at your LGS.
capbyrd  [Member]
5/8/2013 3:52:54 PM
Froglube!
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