AR15.Com Archives
 Questions for Shrike owners??
DEERSNIPER  [Member]
7/12/2010 7:43:50 PM
Picked up a shrike and sendra M16 from damcv62. Gota wait for the paperwork to clear for the m16. I have a couple questions for shrike owners.
1) Does your's run correctly? I have heard they jam a lot. This one is unfired, so I can still sell it.

2) What is the suggested break in? I don't have the manual yet.

3) Anything else I should know?

Thanks!
-dan
amphibian  [Member]
7/13/2010 7:21:50 AM
1. I think mine has actually only jammed once or twice during initial break-in. I've fired many thousands of rounds through it since then and it has not 'jammed'. It has been extremely reliable.
2. I don't have the manual in front of me but I think it was to shoot about 10 or so 30 round mags through it before running a belt and use an 'H' buffer. After break-in, if you get bolt bounce, move to an H2 buffer. I've been using an H2 buffer for years now.
Here is a vid of mine: http://www.livevideo.com/video/753877F8ACCF4BE9ACB42959179DFF4D/shrike-at-hernando-mg-shoot.aspx
Dedeye  [Member]
7/13/2010 7:55:35 AM
For break-in, the manual calls for a couple of hundred rounds, fired from magazines that start out short-loaded (ten rounds), then progress to fully-loaded. If you're waiting on paperwork for the 16, you could do this with a semi lower. Your trigger finger might get a little tired, but it will do the job. If I was you, I would try to get a manual from ARES.

The only time my Shrike has jammer was when I was fooling around with gas settings, trying to get it to function on a lower setting. When I put it back on setting 2, it resumed functioning properly and has been very reliable. I have found that the Shrike runs very well, but likes heavy buffers (as mentioned above). It also needs the specific spring that comes with it, so don't expect it to work with any old spring. It also needs the collapsible stock unless you get a special filler piece from ARES.

You really should try to get the manual.
DEERSNIPER  [Member]
7/13/2010 8:25:47 AM
Thanks for the info!

I am getting the manual from the seller asap.
IndianJoe  [Team Member]
7/13/2010 1:19:01 PM
Cool video amphibian.

Is there a market for the 200 round SAW packs? I have several NIB cans of them.

Just wondering........
damcv62  [Life Member]
7/13/2010 5:11:41 PM
Originally Posted By Dedeye:
For break-in, the manual calls for a couple of hundred rounds, fired from magazines that start out short-loaded (ten rounds), then progress to fully-loaded. If you're waiting on paperwork for the 16, you could do this with a semi lower. Your trigger finger might get a little tired, but it will do the job. If I was you, I would try to get a manual from ARES.

The only time my Shrike has jammer was when I was fooling around with gas settings, trying to get it to function on a lower setting. When I put it back on setting 2, it resumed functioning properly and has been very reliable. I have found that the Shrike runs very well, but likes heavy buffers (as mentioned above). It also needs the specific spring that comes with it, so don't expect it to work with any old spring. It also needs the collapsible stock unless you get a special filler piece from ARES.

You really should try to get the manual.


I've got it for him. I didn't think he would be able to pick it up until later in the week. But who could blame him? I wouldn't want to wait.
damcv62  [Life Member]
7/13/2010 5:14:30 PM
Originally Posted By amphibian:
1. I think mine has actually only jammed once or twice during initial break-in. I've fired many thousands of rounds through it since then and it has not 'jammed'. It has been extremely reliable.
2. I don't have the manual in front of me but I think it was to shoot about 10 or so 30 round mags through it before running a belt and use an 'H' buffer. After break-in, if you get bolt bounce, move to an H2 buffer. I've been using an H2 buffer for years now.
Here is a vid of mine: http://www.livevideo.com/video/753877F8ACCF4BE9ACB42959179DFF4D/shrike-at-hernando-mg-shoot.aspx
http://cdn.livevideo.com/image/78/208678/243495s.jpg


It almost brings tears to my eyes.
damcv62  [Life Member]
7/13/2010 5:15:22 PM
Originally Posted By DEERSNIPER:
Thanks for the info!

I am getting the manual from the seller asap.


I took it and the SAW boxes and the 2nd nut sack to the shop. The dummy ammo belt wasn't included in the deal, I'd like to have that back.
amphibian  [Member]
7/13/2010 5:50:58 PM
Any particular reason you parted with it?
damcv62  [Life Member]
7/13/2010 9:23:58 PM
Originally Posted By amphibian:
Any particular reason you parted with it?


Not really. I had it listed because I was trying to raise money to buy an M60. I ended up getting the 60, and never really took the ad down. He emailed me, asked if it was still for sale. I said sure. Wasn't really looking to sell it, but hey, its all good. I've already found myself another one.
DEERSNIPER  [Member]
7/13/2010 9:43:53 PM
Originally Posted By damcv62:
Originally Posted By DEERSNIPER:
Thanks for the info!

I am getting the manual from the seller asap.


I took it and the SAW boxes and the 2nd nut sack to the shop. The dummy ammo belt wasn't included in the deal, I'd like to have that back.


Dammit it looks great with the dummy ammo, I'll have to display it with live rounds now. .

Pic:

amphibian  [Member]
7/14/2010 7:04:14 AM
Looks like yours is an 'earlier' one like mine. Indicated by your handguard design. Current ones have holes rather than slots cut into the handguard.
You can see in my pic below the slots are machined in the bottom half of the handguard as well. The current ones with the holes don't have the holes on the bottom half so if you put a rail on the bottom it looks kinda weird w/ the lack of holes.
I only needed rails on the top and bottom. If you need rails on the side also then the Ares would definitely be the way to go.

I'm using a RDIAS and the MGI lower with a special AR magwell that has been machined to directly accept SAW boxes as well still accept standard mags/drums.
This raises the SAW box high enough that it is actually not touching the floor. Only the legs of the Grippod and the stock are contacting the floor.

amphibian  [Member]
7/14/2010 7:07:56 AM
Originally Posted By damcv62:
Originally Posted By amphibian:
Any particular reason you parted with it?


Not really. I had it listed because I was trying to raise money to buy an M60. I ended up getting the 60, and never really took the ad down. He emailed me, asked if it was still for sale. I said sure. Wasn't really looking to sell it, but hey, its all good. I've already found myself another one.


Friend of mine did the same thing. I got mine from him although now he no longer wants a Shrike after getting his 60.

DEERSNIPER  [Member]
7/14/2010 7:09:09 AM
Originally Posted By amphibian:
Looks like yours is an 'earlier' one like mine. Indicated by your handguard design. Current ones have holes rather than slots cut into the handguard.
You can see in my pic below the slots are machined in the bottom half of the handguard as well. The current ones with the holes don't have the holes on the bottom half so if you put a rail on the bottom it looks kinda weird w/ the lack of holes.
I only needed rails on the top and bottom. If you need rails on the side also then the Ares would definitely be the way to go.

I'm using a RDIAS and the MGI lower with a special AR magwell that has been machined to directly accept SAW boxes as well still accept standard mags/drums.
This raises the SAW box high enough that it is actually not touching the floor. Only the legs of the Grippod and the stock are contacting the floor.

http://www.c3junkie.com/m16/MGI/Shrike-MGI.jpg


Nice setup, what can are you running? Looks like my M4-96D. Has your shrike been reliable?

Thanks.
amphibian  [Member]
7/14/2010 7:14:53 AM
Originally Posted By DEERSNIPER:
Originally Posted By amphibian:
Looks like yours is an 'earlier' one like mine. Indicated by your handguard design. Current ones have holes rather than slots cut into the handguard.
You can see in my pic below the slots are machined in the bottom half of the handguard as well. The current ones with the holes don't have the holes on the bottom half so if you put a rail on the bottom it looks kinda weird w/ the lack of holes.
I only needed rails on the top and bottom. If you need rails on the side also then the Ares would definitely be the way to go.

I'm using a RDIAS and the MGI lower with a special AR magwell that has been machined to directly accept SAW boxes as well still accept standard mags/drums.
This raises the SAW box high enough that it is actually not touching the floor. Only the legs of the Grippod and the stock are contacting the floor.

http://www.c3junkie.com/m16/MGI/Shrike-MGI.jpg


Nice setup, what can are you running? Looks like my M4-96D. Has your shrike been reliable?

Thanks.


It's an old Gemtech Predator....no longer made. Same baffle stack as the M4-96D just thread mount. Actually it is also referred to by Gemtech as the M4-96C. I just put it on for the pic - actually never shoot the Shrike suppressed.
Regarding your second question, I answered that already on the second post of this thread.

DEERSNIPER  [Member]
7/14/2010 3:11:57 PM
Originally Posted By amphibian:

Regarding your second question, I answered that already on the second post of this thread.



Sorry about, that thats what I get for posting first thing in the morning, I forgot that you already posted and didn't reread the whole thread.

Thanks to all for the help/info so far.

-dan
HKPDW  [Member]
7/14/2010 7:16:59 PM
I just applied a few drops of Break Free around the bolt carrier and feeding paws and let her rip. Fires fine with a suppressor attached as well.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I usually don't jack threads but...

Since no one has brought up the "status" question lately (and who can really blame them), I figure a quick update may as well be in order.

My source (burried deep within the rows of CNC machinery) has informed me to expect "ALL" depositor units to be shipped at the end of the year.

Though my source's timing of event has been occasionally off (by up to a year), her information is generally solid.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Please keep this info on the down low. I don't want my source to face the firing squad
rugby  [Team Member]
7/14/2010 11:04:18 PM
While I no longer own a Shrike I do remember the manual stating to fire the first 300 rounds through magazines before feeding belts.
Like the others poster stated.... get a few different buffers to play around with.

Anybody have a source for new 100 round soft packs aka nut sacks or the 200 round plastic drums?
I have found a few outrageously priced, used to get them for about $25 but my source is MIA.

amphibian  [Member]
7/15/2010 3:16:46 AM
Originally Posted By rugby:
Anybody have a source for new 100 round soft packs aka nut sacks or the 200 round plastic drums?
I have found a few outrageously priced, used to get them for about $25 but my source is MIA.


I bought a bunch of the 100 round soft packs from someone off Sturm when they had them. Don't know a current 'cheap' source.
For 200 rounders see these links:
http://www.newriversalvage.com/id2.html
http://www.oldsargesdropzone.com/product.php?item=1939

damcv62  [Life Member]
7/15/2010 11:32:17 AM
The only place I've seen the 100rd nutsacks has been local gun shows. Usually around $25 or so.
aggiez28  [Team Member]
7/15/2010 1:57:47 PM
i may have to pick up pone of these one day... I have a handfull of M855 SAW drums I could use with it :)

if anyone decides to sell one let me know
damcv62  [Life Member]
7/16/2010 12:49:39 PM
Originally Posted By aggiez28:
i may have to pick up pone of these one day... I have a handfull of M855 SAW drums I could use with it :)

if anyone decides to sell one let me know


Post a WTB add on sturm or subguns. I just picked up another one.
IndianJoe  [Team Member]
7/16/2010 12:57:12 PM
Originally Posted By damcv62:
Originally Posted By aggiez28:
i may have to pick up pone of these one day... I have a handfull of M855 SAW drums I could use with it :)

if anyone decides to sell one let me know


Post a WTB add on sturm or subguns. I just picked up another one.


How much are they bringing these days.
damcv62  [Life Member]
7/16/2010 6:47:45 PM
Originally Posted By IndianJoe:
Originally Posted By damcv62:
Originally Posted By aggiez28:
i may have to pick up pone of these one day... I have a handfull of M855 SAW drums I could use with it :)

if anyone decides to sell one let me know


Post a WTB add on sturm or subguns. I just picked up another one.


How much are they bringing these days.


I paid $8k. I've seen them listed for $7500, but of course when they were listed, I didn't need one.
gmtmaster  [Member]
7/16/2010 8:45:34 PM
Originally Posted By amphibian:
1. I think mine has actually only jammed once or twice during initial break-in. I've fired many thousands of rounds through it since then and it has not 'jammed'. It has been extremely reliable.
2. I don't have the manual in front of me but I think it was to shoot about 10 or so 30 round mags through it before running a belt and use an 'H' buffer. After break-in, if you get bolt bounce, move to an H2 buffer. I've been using an H2 buffer for years now.
Here is a vid of mine: http://www.livevideo.com/video/753877F8ACCF4BE9ACB42959179DFF4D/shrike-at-hernando-mg-shoot.aspx
http://cdn.livevideo.com/image/78/208678/243495s.jpg


ROF is really high. What buffer are you using?
drfcolt  [Team Member]
7/17/2010 6:18:15 AM
Do you have to remove/replace the bolt-stop to mount the Shrike and are there any other modifications needed to the lower?

If I want to use the Shrike with a standard A1 stock, is there some kind of a plug or adapter to use the supplied buffer-spring?

Thanks.
shrikefan  [Team Member]
7/17/2010 6:25:46 AM
Dedeye  [Member]
7/17/2010 8:01:04 AM
Originally Posted By drfcolt:
Do you have to remove/replace the bolt-stop to mount the Shrike and are there any other modifications needed to the lower?

If I want to use the Shrike with a standard A1 stock, is there some kind of a plug or adapter to use the supplied buffer-spring?

Thanks.


Yes, you have to modify the bolt catch by removing the upper tab, as it will hit the Shrike. I had the tab welded back on in a horizontal position and it works just fine.

Yes, there is a filler plug that Ares offers which is needed to operate with a fixed stock. You use the filler plug along with the short carbine-type buffer and the Shrike spring. I have been experimenting with a fixed stock and a heavy LMG buffer, which produces a cyclic rate down in the 600s. Very nice. I left out the filler plug and made up a 1.25" collar around the body of the buffer to compress the Shrike spring more than it would normally be compressed by the buffer and it cycles. I am still testing it, but it appears to work very well.

Ares has concentrated on making the Shrike as amall and light as possible, even displaying a broken-down one in a briefcase. Personally, I have no interest in a miniaturized belt-fed, preferring a full-sized one so I use the fixed stock and 16" barrels. I wouldn't mind longer barels, but the fore-end is carbine-length and the longer barrel looks odd hanging way out there.



amphibian  [Member]
7/17/2010 11:04:59 AM
Originally Posted By gmtmaster:
Originally Posted By amphibian:
1. I think mine has actually only jammed once or twice during initial break-in. I've fired many thousands of rounds through it since then and it has not 'jammed'. It has been extremely reliable.
2. I don't have the manual in front of me but I think it was to shoot about 10 or so 30 round mags through it before running a belt and use an 'H' buffer. After break-in, if you get bolt bounce, move to an H2 buffer. I've been using an H2 buffer for years now.
Here is a vid of mine: http://www.livevideo.com/video/753877F8ACCF4BE9ACB42959179DFF4D/shrike-at-hernando-mg-shoot.aspx
http://cdn.livevideo.com/image/78/208678/243495s.jpg


ROF is really high. What buffer are you using?


I already said what buffer I'm using in the post you quoted above. It shoots faster with the shorty barrel but even so I don't think its that fast. I like the ROF it has now. I do have a PACT timer but never bothered to clock it yet.
One thing to remember when using heavy buffers in piston operated guns is that you will be putting more stress on the components when doing so. By using a heavy buffer now the op rod will encounter more stress as will the impact lug on the carrier due to the heavier buffer. Shrike parts aren't cheap and are only available from one source.
amphibian  [Member]
7/17/2010 11:10:53 AM
Originally Posted By Dedeye:
Originally Posted By drfcolt:
Do you have to remove/replace the bolt-stop to mount the Shrike and are there any other modifications needed to the lower?

If I want to use the Shrike with a standard A1 stock, is there some kind of a plug or adapter to use the supplied buffer-spring?

Thanks.

Ares has concentrated on making the Shrike as amall and light as possible, even displaying a broken-down one in a briefcase. Personally, I have no interest in a miniaturized belt-fed, preferring a full-sized one so I use the fixed stock and 16" barrels. I wouldn't mind longer barels, but the fore-end is carbine-length and the longer barrel looks odd hanging way out there.


Yeah, I've got the opposite preference as you. I personally like compact firepower. I have no interest in heavy belt feds like stuff that has to be tripod mounted. I like to feel the recoil. Not knocking your tastes...just commenting on different viewpoints. It's great that we can tinker with the configurations for our own liking.
Dedeye  [Member]
7/17/2010 2:45:49 PM
No problem, bro. Different strokes for different folks.

Some people prefer the shortie flame throwers- some don't. It's a wonderful thing that we can still all indulge ourselves. If the American people don't pull their heads out of their collective asses, I don't know how much longer that will be true.
damcv62  [Life Member]
7/17/2010 11:43:15 PM
DEERSNIPER, I don't know who it is you are praying to, or who you paid off at the NFA branch, but damn.








I bought my M60 May 22nd, still waiting on the F3 transfer. Yours took a day to be approved. It was faxed in on Monday, approved Tuesday, showed up today. Lucky bastard.
DEERSNIPER  [Member]
7/18/2010 3:44:00 PM
Originally Posted By damcv62:
DEERSNIPER, I don't know who it is you are praying to, or who you paid off at the NFA branch, but damn.



http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/oneday.jpg




I bought my M60 May 22nd, still waiting on the F3 transfer. Yours took a day to be approved. It was faxed in on Monday, approved Tuesday, showed up today. Lucky bastard.


Well that is awesome.

Maybe they are making up for that Sandstorm I showed you that took over a year to get due to lost paperwork. I'm guessing that Laymans is shipping that to my dealer?


sig-x  [Life Member]
7/18/2010 9:51:36 PM
Originally Posted By damcv62:
DEERSNIPER, I don't know who it is you are praying to, or who you paid off at the NFA branch, but damn.



http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/oneday.jpg




I bought my M60 May 22nd, still waiting on the F3 transfer. Yours took a day to be approved. It was faxed in on Monday, approved Tuesday, showed up today. Lucky bastard.


What the hell!! Wich one of you is sleeping with the examiner?
GunBowanna  [Member]
7/19/2010 1:04:02 AM
Originally Posted By sig-x:
Originally Posted By damcv62:
DEERSNIPER, I don't know who it is you are praying to, or who you paid off at the NFA branch, but damn.



http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/oneday.jpg




I bought my M60 May 22nd, still waiting on the F3 transfer. Yours took a day to be approved. It was faxed in on Monday, approved Tuesday, showed up today. Lucky bastard.


What the hell!! Wich one of you is sleeping Blowing the examiner?




There, I fixed it for ya.
DEERSNIPER  [Member]
11/18/2010 10:26:06 PM

2. I don't have the manual in front of me but I think it was to shoot about 10 or so 30 round mags through it before running a belt and use an 'H' buffer. After break-in, if you get bolt bounce, move to an H2 buffer. I've been using an H2 buffer for years now.




Is bolt bounce where that hammer follows through and you can't fire the next shot? Would turning down the gas fix this? Or do I need to get a different buffer?

Thanks.

-dan
Circuits  [Team Member]
11/19/2010 12:23:56 AM
Originally Posted By DEERSNIPER:
Is bolt bounce where that hammer follows through and you can't fire the next shot? Would turning down the gas fix this? Or do I need to get a different buffer?

Thanks.

-dan


No, "bolt bounce" is where the hammer is released a bit late, and the bolt carrier rebounds a little from its contact, so that it is not fully forward when the hammer gets there. The hammer is partially obscured from the firing pin, so it doesn't get a clean strike, and it wastes some of its energy forcing the bolt carrier fully forward.

Hammer follow is a different cause, but the symptoms look similar (hammer down on a live, unfired round). Each requires different remedies.

Bolt bounce is cured by correcting the late timing and/or heavier spring and heavier buffer.

Hammer follow is cured by fixing the auto sear engagement.
BSOG1  [Team Member]
11/22/2010 11:26:01 PM
five months for a Form 3 ? shiiiiiiit
damcv62  [Life Member]
11/23/2010 10:33:57 AM
Originally Posted By BSOG1:
five months for a Form 3 ? shiiiiiiit


My MP5 took almost 7 months. The M60 came threw in just over 4.
DEERSNIPER  [Member]
11/26/2010 7:11:03 AM
Put an H2 buffer in it. It runs great now with mags. I have a few problems with belts, but I think it is because my links are a little dirty/corroded. The bolt has a hard time pushing the new round forward out of the link.

-dan
HKPDW  [Member]
11/26/2010 3:20:31 PM
I ordered some links from "Old Sarges Depot" a while back and about 1% of the links were either rusted or damaged in some other way.

Most did exhibit signs of slight corrosion (white film - like aluminum oxidation). I sprayed them with WD-40 (which is slowly evaporating away) and they now look new.

Oh yeah, it takes 10 hours to sort through 20,000 links



damcv62  [Life Member]
11/26/2010 4:10:43 PM
Originally Posted By HKPDW:
I ordered some links from "Old Sarges Depot" a while back and about 1% of the links were either rusted or damaged in some other way.

Most did exhibit signs of slight corrosion (white film - like aluminum oxidation). I sprayed them with WD-40 (which is slowly evaporating away) and they now look new.

Oh yeah, it takes 10 hours to sort through 20,000 links

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i220/hkmp5kpdw/DSC00048.jpg?t=1290802673



Do you have an automatic linking machine for that????

Or how about a couple of childern? They work in a pinch.
HKPDW  [Member]
11/27/2010 6:42:33 PM
Originally Posted By damcv62:
Do you have an automatic linking machine for that????


Gotta do it by hand A labor of love

Can't wait !





damcv62  [Life Member]
11/27/2010 9:14:09 PM
I bought close to 10k links when I knew I was getting my first. When I got my 2nd, it came with another 15k links or so. I sit at home and link ammo. I haven't picked up one of the push linkers yet. I will at some point though. I don't know when I should stop. So I just keep linking. I guess some day I'll sit down and figure out how many linked rounds I have, maybe I'll stop.
amphibian  [Member]
11/28/2010 7:50:05 AM
I don't think a linker is a good idea unless you are using brand new links. People can step on your links and bend them so they are too tight and then it will jam your Shrike when trying to strip the round. If you use a linker you won't feel which link required the extra force to insert the round. I prefer to just link them by hand. The amount of time it takes to place the links and rounds on the tray you could have just inserted the rounds into the links.

I took my Shrike out last weekend. Fired 800 rounds with zero malfunctions.... typical performance for it. It's been at least a year since I last took it out..... Every time I take it out it is usually around 800 rounds. Gets expensive. It was only because a friend wanted to shoot it and provided 600 rounds of the 800 to shoot.
faldoc  [Member]
12/1/2010 11:51:34 AM
I used a linker (8 years ago) to link up ammo for my Shrike (which will hopefully get here this month). I look over each link as I put it on the plate. I don't feel the force for each one, but if it's damaged, you get the idea pretty quick. Gotta dust off the ammo boxes they're in, put up in the attic so many years ago when ammo was cheap. I think they cost about $140/thousand back then.
JThompson  [Team Member]
12/1/2010 7:21:27 PM
Originally Posted By amphibian:
I don't think a linker is a good idea unless you are using brand new links. People can step on your links and bend them so they are too tight and then it will jam your Shrike when trying to strip the round. If you use a linker you won't feel which link required the extra force to insert the round. I prefer to just link them by hand. The amount of time it takes to place the links and rounds on the tray you could have just inserted the rounds into the links.

I took my Shrike out last weekend. Fired 800 rounds with zero malfunctions.... typical performance for it. It's been at least a year since I last took it out..... Every time I take it out it is usually around 800 rounds. Gets expensive. It was only because a friend wanted to shoot it and provided 600 rounds of the 800 to shoot.


I still have ammo linked up and sitting in an ammo can. Eventually we will meet up and hopefully you will kindly let me have a turn too.
amphibian  [Member]
12/2/2010 7:05:32 AM
no problem. Email me when you think you might be coming out..
oubeta  [Member]
2/15/2011 11:11:50 AM
Whats the status now on the Shrike?
Are the conversions still expensive as hell if you can find them?
I wonder if it would be better to order the upper now and wait on the conversion or just wait and try to find an upper with a conversion on it??

Anyone know what the belt fed conversion will or does sell for?
I think GLobal Tactical sells the uppers for around $3k if i remember correctly.
Is there a list you can get on for the conversions?
Thanks
HKPDW  [Member]
2/15/2011 9:36:30 PM
Originally Posted By oubeta:
Whats the status now on the Shrike?
Are the conversions still expensive as hell if you can find them?
I wonder if it would be better to order the upper now and wait on the conversion or just wait and try to find an upper with a conversion on it??

Anyone know what the belt fed conversion will or does sell for?
I think GLobal Tactical sells the uppers for around $3k if i remember correctly.
Is there a list you can get on for the conversions?
Thanks


Some initial depositors are still waiting for delivery.

Belt Fed Modules are expected to sell for between $2,500 to $3,000. Probably available for purchase mid year (although ARES states April).

The AAR upper used to sell for $3,000 (with the railed handguard). Now, they sell for $2,500 with a railed handguard and lower.
damcv62  [Life Member]
2/16/2011 12:24:03 AM
Originally Posted By oubeta:
Whats the status now on the Shrike?
Are the conversions still expensive as hell if you can find them?
I wonder if it would be better to order the upper now and wait on the conversion or just wait and try to find an upper with a conversion on it??

Anyone know what the belt fed conversion will or does sell for?
I think GLobal Tactical sells the uppers for around $3k if i remember correctly.
Is there a list you can get on for the conversions?
Thanks


You can order the full shrike upper for $5,300. ARES isn't quite caught up with all of the back orders, but they are shipping. No one knows how long it will be till they are caught up, but things are at least moving in that direction.