AR15.Com Archives
 Cerakote or Durakote?
gunrun45-2  [Member]
8/15/2007 2:53:45 AM EDT
These are the options I have right now to have profesionally done.
I tried the gunkote at home on my Ruger P89's as a "tester" project and got some iffy results. It seems to bee peeling off in sections. I became frustrated after my 2nd try at gunkote. I used a wire brush on a bench grinder to take off the blueing on the slides and frame, dipped the whole thing in MEK solution, dried and then heated with a hand torch (just warm, not hot) for even drying. I tried everything I could think of to get all oils and such out but still had iffy results.

The odd thing was that I got EXCELLENT results with my Ruger mini-30 and Rem 870...?

So... off to the pros for a fix for my garage gunsmithing attempts.

Between the two choices of Cerakote (probably the "C" colors to withstand to 1200 deg) and Durakote.

What is THE most durable finsih between the 2 choices? Think agressive user here who uses them in LE training / shooting situation

Thanks in advance for any help here.
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gunrun45-2  [Member]
8/19/2007 2:13:03 PM EDT
53 views and no help guys?
jfk  [Member]
8/20/2007 8:05:39 AM EDT
Cera Kote
gunrun45-2  [Member]
8/22/2007 4:43:34 AM EDT
Thanks. I gues that is at least a vote in either direction.
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jfk  [Member]
8/22/2007 8:20:41 AM EDT
Duracoat is Sherwin-Williams two part paint repackaged and renamed. Some people swear by it while others swear at it. The most important part of any refinish is the prep work that you will put into it.

I started out using the hi-temp BBQ grill paint, switched to spray on Brownells Gunkote, parkerizing, powder coating, bluing, and air brushed Gun Kote.

BBQ grill paint will come off with any harsh type of gun cleaner such as Gunscrubber or brake cleaner.

Aerosol Gunkote from Brownells tends to clump up, especially when applying it in the winter. The cold conditions plug the spray tips up pretty quickly. Brownells sells spare tips for this reason.

Parkerizing looks good but some parts may be darker than others due to the amount of carbon/iron in the metal and metal treatment/hardness while other parts may not refinish at all (aluminum).

Powder coating works pretty good and tends to hide some rough machine marks but retains heat. I've seen some powder coated guns that had reliabilty problems because the coating was too thick. Powder coating is not impervious to brake cleaner or Gunscrubber and the finish will break down if exposed to these chemicals over time.

Bluing requires caustic bluing salts and first time success can be hard to achieve since some builders do not known how to prep the metal properly.

Airbrush Gun Kote tends to work very good. My only problem with air brusing is to make sure there is no moisture in the air lines and use a good quality air brush.

I recently finished a gun with Brownells aerosol Gun Kote and could not be any happier. The finish came out even and there were no blemishes. I was going to refinish this gun with the liquid/air brush Gun Kote but ran out of paint. The gun was already parkerized and cleaned of any residue. The gun was warmed in an oven to about 130 degrees (cool enough to hold onto while wearing rubber gloves. The paint went on even and looked very good. An hour in the oven and the gun was finished.

Getting back to your question, I'd opt to use Ceracoat. Whatever you choose, the prep work should be first rate. Hope that helps.

mrrick  [Member]
9/3/2007 10:34:45 AM EDT
cerakote, but definately look into US Anodisings coatings. they have different ones that are for different parts of the gun, wear, heat ect. some have ceramic some are teflon some moly.
Boxer745  [Team Member]
9/8/2007 8:49:08 AM EDT
I am by no means an expert but I have been doing a lot of checking into this myself. In talking so services that provide Cerakote and Duracoat, I have come to this conclusion:

Cerakota is kickass and the BEST for all metal parts. Cerakota is great if one is finishing just the rifle metal parts or rifles with rails.

However, if one is finishing rubber, synthetic, kydex, or rifles with a lot of these materials, Duracoat is the way to go. Duracoat is more pliable, it requires a curing time which can be as much as 3 months but it will not flake off the pliable parts. Yet it works well for metal parts. I have been told as great as Cerakota is on metal, it is suseptible to flaking on rubbery parts.

There stands to reason that one should be able to do both on a rifle and color match should not be a major issue if one is doing a camo pattern. Good luck!

stang1  [Team Member]
9/16/2007 5:34:44 AM EDT
I am cerified by both Microdyne industries (Cerakote) and by here is my opinion

Cerakote is harder to work with for the less experienced. It does not flash (dry to the touch) as fast as duracoat. Not as many color selections, but they can be mixed as duracoat. It is a harder material once dried, which results in chipping if nicked, even on metal areas. When using patterns, not fun.... The coyote tan/twig patterned ar15 sbr on my web site was done with a base coat of cera, then the twigs were done with dura & then dura satin clear.

As far as the high temp stuff goes, Duraheat is actually the high temp coating from Microdyne industries, just renamed.......

I have the tan high heat on my can, and it works, very well....We originally had standard dura on the can, and it cooked off.

I have 3 different products available to use in my shop ( KG, Ceara, & Dura) 99 % of the time, our jobs are with the Dura as requested by the customers.....Why you ask....

Lauer was brilliant in his marketing...plain & simple....

I did a Glock slide with Cera & refinished it in Dura because it was wearing out/changing color.....

As for a good degreasing mix, use a metal 5 gallon can with air tight clamp lip, pour in a gallon of mek, acetone, & polane reducer, if you just want small parts to soak.
I use 3M brake parts cleaner on the larger stuff. What can I say, it works, even on glock & keltec polymer frames.

Stickman  [Industry Partner]
9/16/2007 2:32:54 PM EDT
Cerakote, no question about it.
gunrun45-2  [Member]
9/19/2007 2:11:10 AM EDT
You guys answered all my questions and then some.
I finally got frustrated enough to say screw it and had the guns hard chromed by a place out here in CA for a pretty good price.

I will remember it for some other projects I've got in the works ;)
guncamoguy  [Member]
9/22/2007 3:37:11 AM EDT
Duracoat and Shermin Williams is a myth!!! Dont believe everything you here!!
fizassist  [Member]
9/22/2007 3:48:20 AM EDT

Originally Posted By guncamoguy:
Duracoat and Shermin Williams is a myth!!! Dont believe everything you here!!

Any details?
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