Archived Posts » 60,595,333
1859 sharps chamber sleave?
1/19/2012 12:41:05 PM
I really want a .54 berdan sharps, the only hiccup is this issue of the chamber sleave......seems it is designed to get a good seal, from ive read and witnessed on my uncles older sharps, it gets fouled and makes the gun very tough to open
my question is...has this been adressed on newer productions? Or is still an issue? if its still an issue, I'd just get an 1842 springfield.
my question is...has this been adressed on newer productions? Or is still an issue? if its still an issue, I'd just get an 1842 springfield.
1/19/2012 12:50:03 PM
There are ways around it but they all have some issues. If you buy a Shiloh you will minimalize it but it is still there. I have a .54 1859 Sporting Rifle made by Shiloh but I've never fired it enough in one sitting to lock it up. I used to have a Pedersoli and it got sticky up after only a few shots. Go to the N-SSA forum (http://www.n-ssa.org/vbforum/) and you'll find plenty of different ways to deal with it.
What is your long term goal? A toy, to shoot matches, or to hunt? Because they are breech loaders the Sharps can't be used to hunt in most states (except during rifle season but some bar them from that) and they are limited in the matches they can compete in. Of course N-SSA has matches for them but the Smith Carbines tend to be the best choice for those. (I know many use Maynards as well)
Feel free to IM me if you want more info. I also have a Armisport 1842 I'm getting ready to sell but it has been de-farbed so it may not be exactly what you are looking for.
What is your long term goal? A toy, to shoot matches, or to hunt? Because they are breech loaders the Sharps can't be used to hunt in most states (except during rifle season but some bar them from that) and they are limited in the matches they can compete in. Of course N-SSA has matches for them but the Smith Carbines tend to be the best choice for those. (I know many use Maynards as well)
Feel free to IM me if you want more info. I also have a Armisport 1842 I'm getting ready to sell but it has been de-farbed so it may not be exactly what you are looking for.
1/20/2012 1:30:25 AM
it will mainly be used as a range toy, and displayed in my living room with my other BP guns, I had a berdan model in 45/70 years ago, but it was kinda boring, thought a 54 BP breechloader would be more interesting, meet the original design intent, and make me more involved with the whole process.
1/20/2012 6:54:54 AM
Originally Posted By Bushmaster1984:
it will mainly be used as a range toy, and displayed in my living room with my other BP guns, I had a berdan model in 45/70 years ago, but it was kinda boring, thought a 54 BP breechloader would be more interesting, meet the original design intent, and make me more involved with the whole process.
it will mainly be used as a range toy, and displayed in my living room with my other BP guns, I had a berdan model in 45/70 years ago, but it was kinda boring, thought a 54 BP breechloader would be more interesting, meet the original design intent, and make me more involved with the whole process.
In that case I say go for it. To do it traditionally will take a bit a work (you need to roll paper cartridges and load it like an artillery piece; bullet, powder roll then cap it) but they are fun to shoot and while I have only shot 100 yards on paper with my Shiloh (clover leaf groups) I also was able to easily ring a gong at 200.
If I were you I'd do a bunch of searches on the N-SSA forum and read up on your options. Remember that they are shooting in competition so they are using some non-traditional methods that may or may not fit into what you want to do.
The 1842 will give you a much simpler toy but you'll need to accept it's accuracy limitations since it is a smoothbore.
1/21/2012 8:22:07 PM
I've had an Armi Sport 1859 Berdan for about 12 years now and I have not had issues with the plate or sleeve sticking, but I clean them thoroughly and keep them well lubricated (I use CLP).
I have noted that it does not like pyrodex due to a couple 90 degree turns in the ignition path and it is much more reliable with black powder due to its lower ignition temp. Pyrodex also has harder fouling than black powder.
I use linen paper cut in stacks of 3-4 sheets by running an exacto knife around a sheet metal pattern cut to dimensions found on the Internet. The shape is trapazoidal and gives a progressive amount of over lap on the tube. I then soak the papers in a solution of potassium permanganate and dry it on fiberglass window screen in an I've on warm with the door lefty cracked open. The end result is flash paper that won't leave residue in the bore.
I form the paper tube around a 1/2" OD brass tube, using a glue stick on the long edge of the paper to glue the tube. Before the glue sets I push a lubed (SPG) bullet point first into the base of the tube with a wooden dowel (and in the process push the brass tube out). Doing it that way allows you to keep the tube very tight around the bullet and prevents the paper tube from being crushed.
I then pour about 60 grains of FFG in the paper tube, enough to allow the plate to slice the charge off evenly.
To close the tube I fold and press one side back across the base of the cartridge, squaring off the powder charge, then fold the end closed by overlapping the end folds in thirds and folding the end back across the base of the cartridge.
It takes longer to describe than it does to make them once you've made the nitrated paper.
I have noted that it does not like pyrodex due to a couple 90 degree turns in the ignition path and it is much more reliable with black powder due to its lower ignition temp. Pyrodex also has harder fouling than black powder.
I use linen paper cut in stacks of 3-4 sheets by running an exacto knife around a sheet metal pattern cut to dimensions found on the Internet. The shape is trapazoidal and gives a progressive amount of over lap on the tube. I then soak the papers in a solution of potassium permanganate and dry it on fiberglass window screen in an I've on warm with the door lefty cracked open. The end result is flash paper that won't leave residue in the bore.
I form the paper tube around a 1/2" OD brass tube, using a glue stick on the long edge of the paper to glue the tube. Before the glue sets I push a lubed (SPG) bullet point first into the base of the tube with a wooden dowel (and in the process push the brass tube out). Doing it that way allows you to keep the tube very tight around the bullet and prevents the paper tube from being crushed.
I then pour about 60 grains of FFG in the paper tube, enough to allow the plate to slice the charge off evenly.
To close the tube I fold and press one side back across the base of the cartridge, squaring off the powder charge, then fold the end closed by overlapping the end folds in thirds and folding the end back across the base of the cartridge.
It takes longer to describe than it does to make them once you've made the nitrated paper.
1/22/2012 4:31:53 AM
Originally Posted By DakotaFAL:
I've had an Armi Sport 1859 Berdan for about 12 years now and I have not had issues with the plate or sleeve sticking, but I clean them thoroughly and keep them well lubricated (I use CLP).
I have noted that it does not like pyrodex due to a couple 90 degree turns in the ignition path and it is much more reliable with black powder due to its lower ignition temp. Pyrodex also has harder fouling than black powder.
I use linen paper cut in stacks of 3-4 sheets by running an exacto knife around a sheet metal pattern cut to dimensions found on the Internet. The shape is trapazoidal and gives a progressive amount of over lap on the tube. I then soak the papers in a solution of potassium permanganate and dry it on fiberglass window screen in an I've on warm with the door lefty cracked open. The end result is flash paper that won't leave residue in the bore.
I form the paper tube around a 1/2" OD brass tube, using a glue stick on the long edge of the paper to glue the tube. Before the glue sets I push a lubed (SPG) bullet point first into the base of the tube with a wooden dowel (and in the process push the brass tube out). Doing it that way allows you to keep the tube very tight around the bullet and prevents the paper tube from being crushed.
I then pour about 60 grains of FFG in the paper tube, enough to allow the plate to slice the charge off evenly.
To close the tube I fold and press one side back across the base of the cartridge, squaring off the powder charge, then fold the end closed by overlapping the end folds in thirds and folding the end back across the base of the cartridge.
It takes longer to describe than it does to make them once you've made the nitrated paper.
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/def0c36f.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/a291f759.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/e8e587f2.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/26c33e5e.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/b92f03a7.jpg
I've had an Armi Sport 1859 Berdan for about 12 years now and I have not had issues with the plate or sleeve sticking, but I clean them thoroughly and keep them well lubricated (I use CLP).
I have noted that it does not like pyrodex due to a couple 90 degree turns in the ignition path and it is much more reliable with black powder due to its lower ignition temp. Pyrodex also has harder fouling than black powder.
I use linen paper cut in stacks of 3-4 sheets by running an exacto knife around a sheet metal pattern cut to dimensions found on the Internet. The shape is trapazoidal and gives a progressive amount of over lap on the tube. I then soak the papers in a solution of potassium permanganate and dry it on fiberglass window screen in an I've on warm with the door lefty cracked open. The end result is flash paper that won't leave residue in the bore.
I form the paper tube around a 1/2" OD brass tube, using a glue stick on the long edge of the paper to glue the tube. Before the glue sets I push a lubed (SPG) bullet point first into the base of the tube with a wooden dowel (and in the process push the brass tube out). Doing it that way allows you to keep the tube very tight around the bullet and prevents the paper tube from being crushed.
I then pour about 60 grains of FFG in the paper tube, enough to allow the plate to slice the charge off evenly.
To close the tube I fold and press one side back across the base of the cartridge, squaring off the powder charge, then fold the end closed by overlapping the end folds in thirds and folding the end back across the base of the cartridge.
It takes longer to describe than it does to make them once you've made the nitrated paper.
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/def0c36f.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/a291f759.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/e8e587f2.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/26c33e5e.jpg
http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/b92f03a7.jpg
very cool, looking Iike im gonna take the plunge
1/29/2012 6:17:08 AM
another question on this, I see pedersoli offers brass cases that load into the 1859 model, seems like this would simplify things quite a bit, I dont see a place to buy them on pedersolis site...anyone know where I can buy these brass cases?
1/29/2012 6:34:57 AM
Buffalo Arms sells them.
1/29/2012 9:26:19 AM
thanks
1/30/2012 4:42:16 PM
Heresy...
(But I'm tempted to try them out.)
An issue would be whether you can dry brush the fouling out and reload them on-site, or whether they need to be washed and dried between loading. A cartridge box (40) of them is going to cost $240 compared to a $10 ream of paper and a large bottle of pottasium permanganate that will produce enough paper for a decade or so of shooting.
(But I'm tempted to try them out.)
An issue would be whether you can dry brush the fouling out and reload them on-site, or whether they need to be washed and dried between loading. A cartridge box (40) of them is going to cost $240 compared to a $10 ream of paper and a large bottle of pottasium permanganate that will produce enough paper for a decade or so of shooting.
1/31/2012 5:38:05 AM
Originally Posted By DakotaFAL:
Heresy...
(But I'm tempted to try them out.)
An issue would be whether you can dry brush the fouling out and reload them on-site, or whether they need to be washed and dried between loading. A cartridge box (40) of them is going to cost $240 compared to a $10 ream of paper and a large bottle of pottasium permanganate that will produce enough paper for a decade or so of shooting.
Heresy...
(But I'm tempted to try them out.)
An issue would be whether you can dry brush the fouling out and reload them on-site, or whether they need to be washed and dried between loading. A cartridge box (40) of them is going to cost $240 compared to a $10 ream of paper and a large bottle of pottasium permanganate that will produce enough paper for a decade or so of shooting.
though the hardcore sharps guys wouldnt dig them. I was checking them out as an alternative, still want to make paper rounds, waiting for the return to come in, and no unforeseen bills
hope i can make one of these happen