Mosin Trigger Job? ** Update **
What has been your experience after dong one?
I did one today. Smoothed and polished the contact points on the spring and trigger (not any that contact the bolt), Shimmed the spring
and installed a trigger return spring. Feels pretty nice.
** Update **
The first one is still not back in the stock yet cause it's still getting refinished so I did my Tula over the weekend, reassempled and tried the trigger.
It's very smooth but lots of take up. Doesn't break until almost all the way back. Has anyone had similar results?
It can improve a gritty trigger or make a goodd trigger better. I improved my Mosin's trigger with the same polishing. Then, I worked on a second Mosin and WOW, it was nice.
If the sear spring is bent in the proper spot and/or the sear tab is the proper length, there should be no need to shim it or to use a return spring. Shimming the sear or bending it in the wrong spot is what lowers it to the point that the trigger becomes "floppy" and you need (or think you need) a return spring to correct it. The key, is to bend the sear spring as close to the tab as you can. However, you need to be careful to not break/crack it, as well as not to bend it too far, or it could lead to the rifle going off with only a slight jarring, or contact with the cocking piece. When you think you have it where you want it, you can do the "drop test", but you also want to push, pull and wiggle the cocking piece to be sure it won't go off on it's own. Also, you need to check that repeat pressure on the trigger (like setting up for a shot that you don't take) won't "walk" the sear off the cocking piece. All things to watch out for. Be careful!
Bought a sporterized Remington for $50 w/ a trigger even my cynic brother was impressed w/. Someone knew what he was doing back in the 20's.
Gig 'em,
backbencher
Installed a Timney on a sportster, that trigger is awesome, two stage with about a 3lb break. Easy to install on the receiver, but takes a lot of machining on the stock to get it in the stock. Other then that the only real issue with the trigger was the edges were not rounded on the face of the trigger causing it to scrape along your finger when you fire it. Some light filing fixed that. Also worked on an ex-sniper that now has a shim on the Sear/Spring. It shortened the trigger pull to under 1/8in but it was still rather stiff. Not to mention the shim on the sear makes the trigger very floppy as it don't engage the spring/sear until that last 1/8in. So a return spring is defiantly a good ideal if your going to do the shim style adjustment.
