They breed like flies.....Mosins (added pictures of my counter bore job)
Just bought my 2nd....
My first. 1942 Ishevsk 91/30
My second. 1938 Ishevsk. 91/30 Bought today.
My first one put 4 out of 5 shots on a steel plate at 300 yds. Then the black target fell off and I couldn't see it with the background. Only got one more out of ten....
I will be on the 500 yd target next week. 450 meter setting on the sights should do it.

Good shooting Batman ! !
Here's a word of advice: Mosin's are packed 20 rifles to a case. Never buy a Mosin rifle case –– NEVER ! !
Don't ask me why . . . . .
I have to agree that they do breed this mess was created n less than 3 years the first was the M44.
Any time you get to wake up a rifle from a 60+ year slumber in cosmoline it is special. I can't wait to shoot the 1938. It took over an hour to clean it up.
I may have to cut 1/2" off the barrel and re-crown it. The rifling looks decent out to the crown, but it looks like it may have some cleaning rod wear. Very mild if that is the case.
Counterboring would likely be a better option than chopping and recrowning, and would have the same effect. No need to cut the barrel or remove the front sight and base.
Every time I think about selling my Mosin (1922 Izhevsk), I take it to the range and remember why I'll be holding on to it. It works well and shoots great.
I remember hearing that Mosins were getting scarce in the stores. Dunhams is selling them for 90 bucks and it's in the add almost every week.
Should I grab one or two or is there still a boat load out there and we're in no danger of running out?
It looks like a fun gun to play with and I haven't heard anything bad about them.
LW
Originally Posted By LoneWolf30:
I remember hearing that Mosins were getting scarce in the stores. Dunhams is selling them for 90 bucks and it's in the add almost every week.
Should I grab one or two or is there still a boat load out there and we're in no danger of running out?
It looks like a fun gun to play with and I haven't heard anything bad about them.
LW
I personally think every one should have one and a can of ammo for it. They are reliable, hit hard, you would have a hard time killing one and to boot they are a ton of fun to shoot. I have actually seen them going at dunham's for $79 recently and for that price I have a hard time believing that they are going to get scarce any time soon.
Take a flashlight with you and check the crown and bore. They are very worth buying just for the wallop fun factor.
Originally Posted By batmanacw:
Take a flashlight with you and check the crown and bore. They are very worth buying just for the wallop fun factor.
Exactly on the wallop factor as long as you are not a tenderfoot. I personally enjoy the bruises and sore shoulder at the end of the day but to each his own.
I started with one a few years ago...
Now I have 4
1931 Tula Non rearsenal all numbers match including the bayonet.
1937 Tula MO/53 All number Match excluding the bayonet
1944 Izzy M44 All numbers Match w/ Laminate Stock
1944 VKT Finny M39 Like New built on a >1920 Tula Receiver (just have the old hammer mark on the TANG don't have an exact date)
Also have their older brothers
1950 SKS Tula Rearsenaled all number batch minus stock
2009 Arsenal SGL 31 built on a IZZY receiver/barrel.
I need to take some pics when
1. Its warmer
2. Its not muddy
Mmm. That middle Yugo SKS is utterly gorgeous.
Originally Posted By Man_On_Nickel:
Mmm. That middle Yugo SKS is utterly gorgeous.
Actually the middle is a Russian Tula I got from a guy for $175. From top to bottom it is Tula 1939 91/30 Izzy 1944 M44 Tula Russian 1951?? SKS The bottom 2 are my Yugos neither of which I have fired. I have shot the Russian but after all the time it took to clean after shooting the dirty corrosive Yugoslavian ammo I am hesitant to even use them.
Bought one of those a few weeks ago. Very nice gun, mine is a 1939 Russian round receiver.
Was that a railroad tie down plate ?

Originally Posted By foreman2000:
Was that a railroad tie down plate ?

was....

Originally Posted By batmanacw:
Originally Posted By foreman2000:
Was that a railroad tie down plate ?

was....

Why is that so odd, I have shot up about 5 of those things over the years.

I carried 2 of those things for 3 miles once on a hiking trip on a old RR grade, never again, those damn things are heavy

. They were laying there, and I needed targets....
I got a cleaning kit with my new mosin. Never even seen one before. It became obvious why so many mosins I look at have damage around the end of the bore. The hex receiver they had there had no rifling left for the last 1/2". They cleaned them from the muzzle......and apparently using the muzzle protector was optional.....
My lathe cannot back bore this rifle on my lathe without unscrewing the barrel and removing the rear sight. I am just going to shoot it tomorrow and see how it goes.
It starts with 1 .......................... Then it gets way out of hand
I bought one last summer. Bought another last week. Took my GF's oldest to buy one. Took my buddy to buy one. Talked a family member into buy one too.......
Any further purchases will be better quality or more desireable versions.
Funny how each and every one of them bought after shooting my 1942 91/30.
Yes they do.... I started with one 91/30 three years ago, now I am at three 91/30s, four M44s, and a M38.
I just counter bored my 1938 Mosin. The crown showed a little wear from poor cleaning practices with the steel cleaning rod. I back bored it 3/8". Now I have a nice clean release point. I am not sure if I should have bored it out bigger, but I don't think it will matter.
I was negligent in the fact that I did not really shoot it for accuracy before I bored it. Honestly I don't care. It will absolutely shoot better with a good crown and strong rifling all the way to the crown.
My first chance to shoot it will be this Sunday if everything goes according to plan.
If you look closely you can see where I had to chamfer the front sight base to get the barrel and sight base through the spindle bore of the lathe. Not great for aesthetics, but my bigger lathe would have required unscrewing the barrel and removing the rear sight base. No freakin way I am doing all that.
I'm dyin to shoot this thing.

Originally Posted By batmanacw:
I am not sure if I should have bored it out bigger, but I don't think it will matter.
Overkill much... The Russians would counter bore them out about .015in larger then the grove diameter, that's like taking out the height of the rifling the whole way around the existing bore.
Originally Posted By PiGood:
Originally Posted By batmanacw:
I am not sure if I should have bored it out bigger, but I don't think it will matter.
Overkill much... The Russians would counter bore them out about .015in larger then the grove diameter, that's like taking out the height of the rifling the whole way around the existing bore.
I didn't have any Russians to ask.....
This was my 1938 91/30 shooting Tula ammo at 100 yds.
This was shooting russian light ball at 100 yds.
This rifle is shooting 12" high at 100 yds. I was having a bit of trouble "popsicle sticking" the target and keeping everything aligned. I think the groups will tighten up considerably once I am shooting for the center of the target.
I have a lot of work to do to bring the point of impact down. I file off the bottom of the back sight slider until the sight drops .084" max. I will most likely drop it about .070" to start because I like my point of impact to be just above the sight, out of the image warp as the light goes over the sight. This is a pretty significant amount of drop. I did this with my 1942 as well and it turned out spectacular.
I am really loving playing with these cheap but fine pieces of history.
I think I did okay on the crown. This is 5 shots at 50 yds with Russian light ball. Wind gusting to 20 MPH. Its about 1.5“
Thats a pretty nice group! Look up "corking a Mosin barrel". Some guys put shims under the barrel near the front of the stock to "accurize" them. May cut that group down even more.
Originally Posted By KB7DX:
Thats a pretty nice group! Look up "corking a Mosin barrel". Some guys put shims under the barrel near the front of the stock to "accurize" them. May cut that group down even more.
This group represents 5 shots with open sights fired without a rear rest. I have seen several corked mosins shot and none of them shot better than my two stock mosins. I am plenty satisfied with it the way it is. I am extremely relieved that my counterbore seems to be well done.
I shot this target today in gusting 10 to 15 wind, so I shot at 50 yards again. The top 5 shot group is silver tip Russian light ball. 1.25" ctc it looks like. The bottom 5 shots is Chech training ammo. I was pleasantly surprised at how it shot.
I am 2" over my point of aim at 100 yards. Pretty nice since its easy to see the point of impact above the sight.
This rifle really came together nicely. I can't wait to shoot it at 300 yards!
Nice work!
GREAT results!
This was 5 shots at 200 yards rested off the tailgate of the truck. Not too bad since the wind was gusting up to 20 MPH.
This target is 12 x 15". This is 4 out of 10 shots in gusting 15 MPH wind. I had trouble figuring out where to put the target on the front sight. I ended up with the left edge of the target even with left edge of the sight. The sight was much larger than the target. Wind is a tough one!
This was with paint dipped Russian light ball. I really can't wait to shoot on a calm day with non dipped ammo.
This rifle is splitting cases at the base of the neck and shoulder. Does that normally mean excessive head space? Only a few now and then. I am surprised it shoots as well as it does.
Originally Posted By batmanacw:
This rifle is splitting cases at the base of the neck and shoulder. Does that normally mean excessive head space? Only a few now and then. I am surprised it shoots as well as it does.
tag for answer as it seems i've read more about split cases with surplus 54r ammo and the mosin more than any other c&r firearm.
i've seen some myself from mine and think it's more the ammo than a head space issue.
Originally Posted By batmanacw:
This rifle is splitting cases at the base of the neck and shoulder. Does that normally mean excessive head space? Only a few now and then. I am surprised it shoots as well as it does.
What year was that ammo manufactured? It could be the ammo and not your chamber.
I recently shot a friends M44 and 3 of 4 fired cases had neck and/or shoulder splits. I could tell when one of the shots I fired was "wrong" the ejected case was split from neck to rim.
My friend did some research and found something online about some lots of ammo from the 50s that were prone to splits.
He bought a newer batch from AIM and of the 40 or so rounds we fired last weekend none of them had any shoulder or neck splits.
I am getting the idea its just the generous chamber dimensions and not a big deal. Most of my surplus is 1970's vintage. Its plenty accurate. I am going back to shoot that 500 yard target Saturday. If the wind is calm I will be very happy so I can see how centered my sight in is. Its unreal shooting that far with those open sights. I can't wait to try it at 700 or 800 yards.
Originally Posted By BankerBilly:
Good shooting Batman ! !
Here's a word of advice: Mosin's are packed 20 rifles to a case. Never buy a Mosin rifle case –– NEVER ! !
Don't ask me why . . . . .
I'm looking for a place that sells them by the case have 5 co workers who all want to buy Mosins most want to buy four or more.
Is the only way to counterbore a rifle with a lathe? I'm wondering if theres a tool that can be used by hand or chucked in a drill
Originally Posted By kingfish:
Is the only way to counterbore a rifle with a lathe? I'm wondering if theres a tool that can be used by hand or chucked in a drill
The only way to do it right is with a lathe. I suppose you could make a piloted reamer, but a lathe is easier.
A crude recrowning job can be done with a chatterless countersink, but the chances of it being true are slim.
Nice job on the counterbore. My M38 was counterbored during refurb. For whatever reason it seems that most M38 are that way. M38's were used by rear area troops like artillery etc. It seems they spent a lot of time cleaning and not much time actually shooting them. When the first ones came into the country finding one without the counterbore was unusual.
The next time you go go looking for these rifles, take a bullet with you. If the rifle has not been counterbored, stick the bullet into the muzzle. The one that has the most bullet showing has the best condition muzzle and most likely bore too. I have a 91/30 that I picked up out of a scrap barrel for $50 at a shop near Ft. Benning. I picked up a M91 out of the barrel too. I had to repair the stock and clean it up. My smoothest operating 91/30, but a swallows the bullet up to the casing. Rest of the bore looks pretty good. It needs a good counterbore of an inch or so. Someday I will look into getting it done. Not worth buying the tools to do it for a one time job.
Originally Posted By gaweidert:
Nice job on the counterbore. My M38 was counterbored during refurb. For whatever reason it seems that most M38 are that way. M38's were used by rear area troops like artillery etc. It seems they spent a lot of time cleaning and not much time actually shooting them. When the first ones came into the country finding one without the counterbore was unusual.
The next time you go go looking for these rifles, take a bullet with you. If the rifle has not been counterbored, stick the bullet into the muzzle. The one that has the most bullet showing has the best condition muzzle and most likely bore too. I have a 91/30 that I picked up out of a scrap barrel for $50 at a shop near Ft. Benning. I picked up a M91 out of the barrel too. I had to repair the stock and clean it up. My smoothest operating 91/30, but a swallows the bullet up to the casing. Rest of the bore looks pretty good. It needs a good counterbore of an inch or so. Someday I will look into getting it done. Not worth buying the tools to do it for a one time job.
strip it down to the barest parts and look for a machine shop that has a lathe with a large bore through the headstock. Then you just have to chuck it up with the action (without the trigger) in the headstock. Check the barrel for run out. Some times you have to wrap the barrel with paper since you are chucking up on a very slight taper. The paper will crush on the back end of the chuck and hold the thinner end if the taper is not too severe.