AR15.Com Archives
 Mosin-Nagant Accuracy Tricks and Tips.
thedoctors308  [Team Member]
9/28/2006 1:32:12 PM EST
I think all of us are well aware of the shortcomings of the Mosin-Nagant's trigger.
Not only is it heavy, but rather spongy as well, and these all come together to make the Mosin less than accurate.
My 91/30's trigger was very heavy, spongy, and took a very long pull before it would break at around 10 lbs.
After a 10 minute trigger job, I have halved the weight required to get the trigger to break.
Trigger pull is now short, crisp, and smooth - still not a match rifle, but much better than before.
Plus, it was a fun little project for the afternoon.
Has anyone else done this?
Anyone else have any other tips or tricks for accurizing the Mosin-Nagant?

Instructions Here
Paid Advertisement
--
bradleyc  [Member]
9/28/2006 7:28:17 PM EST
my tip is to buy an ex-sniper with a good bore. it seems there were generally two ways a sniper became an ex-sniper:

1. the snipers were no longer needed, and converted back to M91/30 configuration
2. the snipers had come out of spec with damage or heavy use and were converted back to M91/30 configuration

a used barrel may be a blessing here, as theres a greater chance it is the rifles original barrel. new barrels are not always more accurate. for example, my M91/30 came with what looked like an unfired barrel. it holds 2-4'' groups at 100m, but its pretty much a joke at 300. ive tried this with various ammo types and had the same experience.

i have witnessed ex-snipers holding 4 MOA out to 300m. apparently they retain much of the accuracy that was the reason they were selected for the sniper conversion in the first place.
bradleyc  [Member]
9/28/2006 7:41:06 PM EST
the shims mentioned above are a good trick. my M39 came with brass shims already fitted and placed into it.

with my M39 i wanted to stabilize the barrel in its float tube (the handguard and stock), but the tang screw and magazine screw have to be torqued just right so that the barrel doesn't lean up or down in the stock. here is the method i came up with:

1. tighten the tang screw all the way down.
2. use blue loc-tite (the non-permanent kind) on the magazine screw. fire for groups at the range, and tighten it a half turn after each group. tighten it and fire until your group gets tight and then opens. once it opens, back the screww off a half turn and leave the loc-tite to cure. it took me 25 rounds to find the best spot for the screw. it helps to fire from a benchrest to elimiate operator error.

after this is done, dont remove the rifle from its stock. i have not tried this with russian mosins, but i believe the results would be the same. the barrel will not float without modifying the stock and handguard, but you can reduce the pressure these place on the barrel.
Stlrain0341  [Member]
10/11/2006 1:12:01 PM EST
I tried this and was amazed at how much it helped the trigger, but when I put the rifle back together the trigger was too far back- the trigger guard prevented the trigger from being completely pulled. I took a few of the shims out, and it works now, but the trigger is nowhere near as light/short as it was before. Anyone else have this problem? Anything I did wrong that I could fix?
Turkish-M4  [Team Member]
10/11/2006 4:34:22 PM EST
I was able to attain this same idea by simply taking the stock off of the gun and bending/adjusting the sear until the trigger was where I liked it. Its surprising just how simple the Nagant trigger system is and I was actually able to get it pretty crisp. Having a good trigger pull really helps the accuracy of these old warhorses.


Turk
Paid Advertisement
--