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 Winchester Mdl 12, how to remove the forend
Barak  [Member]
3/28/2013 7:19:56 PM EDT
I'll turn this into a "How To" for anyone in my same situation.
This shotgun started out as a standard Mdl 12 that I wanted to modify to a Riot configuration, I started a thread HERE.
I just recently acquired the earlier styled fore grip and needed to install it, which brought me here to start this thread. [end edit]

I have a Winchester Mdl 12 and I'm trying to replace the wood forend, I have it stripped down to just the slide and striped/gutted magazine tube, how do you separate/remove the tube from the slide?
The only thing I figure keeping it from coming off is the "Action Slide Spring" acting as a keeper, does anyone have a tip.
Been searching the web and can't find a thing.

With the Back Dated Fore Grip

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ToeTag  [Member]
3/28/2013 9:17:31 PM EDT
familyman357  [Member]
3/28/2013 9:48:49 PM EDT
Well, I've never done it, but have you removed the action slide sleeve screw cap at the front of the wood? You'll need a special forend wrench / spanner wrench to fit the two notches on the front of the cap.
Once the action slide sleeve screw cap is removed, you should be able to remove the action slide tube assembly to the rear and the magazine tube toward the front.
Barak  [Member]
3/29/2013 4:09:46 AM EDT
That's what I was afraid of, I don't have that wrench and was hoping to be able to remove the sleeve 1st then I'm sure I could get the screw cap off.
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rcr29  [Team Member]
3/29/2013 10:31:30 AM EDT
It's kind of tricky. I'm trying to remember how I did mine, as I took my model 12 down as far as it would go, sans disassembling the trigger group.

You said you already got it down to the bare tube?
I thought it should be able to slide off the back of tube once that happened?

The tube must be completely free from the barrel. You have to take the mag band off, which means pulling the mag cap off as well.
Form there, you can get the pump far enough forward to clear the extension and separate from the rest of the barrel.

After that, I thought it should be able to just slide back off the bare tube. IIRC it required some finesse to get that thing apart.

There's also a great YouTube video on how to break on down.

Hope this is a help.
Barak  [Member]
3/29/2013 11:47:57 PM EDT
Yes I have it down to just the hollow mag tube and handguard, I think the action slid spring is acting as a keeper preventing the handguard from moving rearward, I think as mentioned the slide sleeve screw has to come off 1st (which requires the special wrench) then the tube will slide off, the slide slv screw will not pass over the spring.
I watched all the U-tube vids by Midway and he never addresses how to remove the slide, he shows it removed and still assembled, but never mentions how.
I guess I need the wrench, "And that's the way it is".....

Barak  [Member]
3/30/2013 12:04:35 AM EDT

Barak  [Member]
3/31/2013 6:34:35 AM EDT
I got it off, I made a quick tool with some wood and 2 pennies I drilled a 1 inch hole then made 2 slots to hold the pennies, squared off the coins slid them in the slots,dropped the mag tube through the hole, butted the screw so they seated on the coins and gave it a twist, it worked great.

The Action Slide Screw #27 "MUST" come off to remove the slide tube #25, the screw can then be removed by sliding it forward and off the mag tube #21 (if necessary) then the Action Slide #25 can be removed by sliding it off to the rear.
Nether part can pass over the boss that is permanently attached to the mag tube.

This is a picture of the mag tube that I could not find on the web aside from a exploded drawing.
As you can see the action slide is to the left (with wood removed) and the SSScrew to the right, and the Action Slide Spring #26 in the middle.

Now related to "MY" project, I found that there was a design change in the Action Slide #25, they extended the cocking arm forward onto the tune (seems like a stronger design) I don't know when this change happened but I ended up having to inlet my forearm wood, I removed enough material to clear this added boss but the wood got paper thin to cover it, so knowing that it could easily get damaged I reinforced it by bedding this area using JB Weld, quite easy and I think it will hold up fine, at the worst I'll have to clearance the wood and the boss would be exposed, it's only a inch long by 1/4, but it seems to be fine

A 1928 forend VS my 1958 forend tube with inlet wood

The finished product

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