642 vs 442

I want to get a .38 for a BUG/pocket gun and have decided on a S&W j-frame. Local shop has both the 642 and 442 for under $350 and was wondering about the differences. It is my understanding that they both are alloy frame with the 642 having stainless barrel and cylinder and the 442 having steel ones. I am leaning towards the 642 for corrosion resistance and think it looks a little better. How does the finish one the 642, which I'm assuming is some sort of clear coat, last and compare to the 442? Are there any other differences that I am missing? I more than likely will put an Apex spring kit in whichever one I buy.

+1. Better pocket gun for that reason alone.

Yupp. Its also better for BUG duty on an ankle rig for the same reason. In fact it is going to be my next purchase for that reason.

I'm actually delaying going to buy one because I'm worried my bank account is going to get drained as I have like 5 guns that are on my "next purchase" list

I've got the 442. Definitely get the APEX spring kit.

Im trying to find a 642 or 442 without that stupid lock

Dont they still make them without the lock? Have a store order one for ya

Found another GS near buy

They had a huge selection of J frames! 90% all had locks.

They had several 642 without locks but it was the laser model? at over 600 bucks

The laser is nice I might wait another month and get it. Right now I only have 500 saved.

Bought a new 642 no lock from Bud's online a few months ago.

Me too about 2 weeks ago and I love it no worry about locking up at wrong time and the brushed stainless looks great

Has anyone removed the lock from a new revolver? I have seen the videos on youtube but was wondering if anyone here has done it and what your experiences were

Why don't you just order what you want? Bud's has the Pro Series 442 with no lock and the cylinder is cut for moon clips. It's a nice package.

Yep. I picked on up and have been nothing but pleased with it. You can use it without the moonclips too, but having them makes down loading/ejecting the spent casings easier.

Just FYI, the rubber boot grips that come on most of these interfered with every type of speedloader I tried. I found an old pair of Uncle Mike's boot grips like what they used to put on these guns and it's good to go. The Houge work also with speedloaders. I had those for a while but they didn't fit my hand as well as the UM and I felt they were a little too sticky for pocket carry.

YMMV.

DP

I did it on my 638. First I covered the hole with a piece of Scotch tape. Later I bought "The Plug" off the S&W forum. No "experience" once I removed the lock. Prior to removing it I had an unintended lock experience at the range.

I have a 642, been around the world with pocket guns as some would jam, some were too heavy, some the mag would come out in your pocket. My quest is over, wouldn't even think of anything else now. Should have bought a J frame 25 years ago.

I have had both 642 and now a 442 no lock. 642 wore in almost a flaking type pattern. 442 is wearing from pocket carry, but it is a more even normal wear, that is the only way I know how to describe it. I have not had rust issues with either model - that is with very little care of the revolvers too.

I have helped remove a lock on a buddy's gun. Used youtube video but took us about 5 times as long as guy in video. We did some buffing/polishing while in there. Also installed the "plug".

Buy a No Lock model if all possible!

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