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Cleaning the Ruger 22/45
12/30/2011 9:43:38 PM
How often do you clean your Ruger 22/45? I am the type of person that is anal about having a clean gun when I'm done shooting them. However, I keep reading how much of a pain the 22/45 is to take down to properly clean it.
Without breaking down the pistol, how can one effectively clean the 22/45 to ensure proper function and longevity of the firearm?
Without breaking down the pistol, how can one effectively clean the 22/45 to ensure proper function and longevity of the firearm?
12/30/2011 9:46:22 PM
As little as possible ! I hate taking that thing apart! Gun scrubber punch the bore the and alot of clp!!
12/30/2011 10:41:23 PM
I don't know I shot mine for the first time and didn't clean it. When I went back to shoot it again it would barely chamber a round it was so dirty. I would not worry about breaking it down you own the gun it is something you are going to have to figure out eventually so why not just do it.
12/30/2011 11:35:05 PM
It's not that damned hard! Follow the directions in the manual, or failing that, watch the videos on you-tube, you'll figure it out!
Mainly, just run a boresnake through the barrel every couple of hundred rounds and call it good. Most .22's take more damage from cleaning than from shooting by a wide margin.
Mainly, just run a boresnake through the barrel every couple of hundred rounds and call it good. Most .22's take more damage from cleaning than from shooting by a wide margin.
12/31/2011 9:25:07 AM
Originally Posted By Wyldman:
It's not that damned hard! Follow the directions in the manual, or failing that, watch the videos on you-tube, you'll figure it out!
It's not that damned hard! Follow the directions in the manual, or failing that, watch the videos on you-tube, you'll figure it out!
This.
Really once you disassemble and reassemble it 2 or 3 times it becomes alot easier.
Be smarter than the gun.
12/31/2011 9:32:33 AM
I bet i have 1000 rounds through mine and i've never broken it down. A couple of times i've punched the bore, soaked it good with break-free, called it good. Keeps on ticking. Clearly i'm not anal about gun cleaning - i keep them lubed and clean them when they're really disgusting - i think i got burned out on spotless gun cleaning in the Marines.
1/7/2012 1:40:16 AM
It is not glock easy, but practice makes perfect! Just make sure the hammer is as far forward as possible when inserting the bolt pin and ensure the hammer strut is "hanging down" in the right place when swinging the arm home by pointing the muzzle toward the ceiling. This should get you close to the angle the hammer strut should be
1/7/2012 2:10:27 AM
The more times you take it apart the easier it gets, both because of skill and because of the parts wearing in a little.
THe MKIII throws in a little more suffering because of the damn mag safety but it is not too bad. May need a paperclip or punch or the like to make the hammer strut fall into place too, but not a big issue.
The round count where mine starts choking is temperature dependent. As little as 100 rounds in colder temps, but have gone as many as 1500 before it started choking in summer. WD40 can help keep it going, but not as much as popping the bolt out and wiping it down to remove the wax build up.
Mine is a stainless MKII22/45, I suspect a newer gun would not be as forgiving.
THe MKIII throws in a little more suffering because of the damn mag safety but it is not too bad. May need a paperclip or punch or the like to make the hammer strut fall into place too, but not a big issue.
The round count where mine starts choking is temperature dependent. As little as 100 rounds in colder temps, but have gone as many as 1500 before it started choking in summer. WD40 can help keep it going, but not as much as popping the bolt out and wiping it down to remove the wax build up.
Mine is a stainless MKII22/45, I suspect a newer gun would not be as forgiving.
1/7/2012 11:50:46 PM
I ordinarily field strip and clean every gun every time it gets fired.
My 22/45 is the only exception to that rule. I always bore snake it and clean what I can hit through the ejection port, but I will probably only strip it every 2-3 range trips.
Stripping it isn't necessarily difficult, but there's a very specific sequence of inserting/removing an empty mag, turning it upside down, and pulling the trigger.
It's the only firearm I've ever needed a manual to strip, and I still don't have it memorized. 
1/8/2012 1:59:16 AM
We need to set up a tournament sometime. MKIII full field strip and reassemble competition for best times. Maybe even do a relay. That would be a riot.
1/8/2012 2:26:58 AM
I've never broken it down. I use a bore-snake. And q tips to clean inside as good as I can.
Still accurate as hell and eats whatever I feed it.
Still accurate as hell and eats whatever I feed it.
1/8/2012 12:55:56 PM
Majestic Arms "Speed strip kit"––- youtube it.
Install once, get improved trigger pull and most important a ONE screw dis-assembly/reassembly.
I have them installed on my MIII's.
I personally know Dino and have interests in the MARRS that we are trying to bring to market.
Install once, get improved trigger pull and most important a ONE screw dis-assembly/reassembly.
I have them installed on my MIII's.
I personally know Dino and have interests in the MARRS that we are trying to bring to market.
1/8/2012 3:19:24 PM
I suppose there are two categories and I've fallen in to the latter.
I have a Mk II 22/45, love to shoot, hate to clean it. Field stripping and cleaning it really isn't that big a deal. As others have said, follow the manual step by step and you won't have any issues. I cleaned mine after every range trip for a while, then realized it was a total waste of time.
I now clean it when it starts to get snotty and has FT-everything issues. I would guess the average cleaning interval is about 1500 rounds. I keep a can of CLP in my range bag and give it a squirt when it starts to gum up, then give in and clean it.
I would think that you could lube the bolt assembly with it locked back. I find an amazing amount of gunk in the recess for the exractor and give that area a lot of attention when it is broken down. You might be able to get in there with a dental pick if it isn't field stripped?
I also find that the face of the breach attracts a huge amount of build up and eventually causes issues with lock up. Maybe try chucking an old bore brush in a drill and give that area a good scrub?
These pistols do not need to be scrubbed white-glove clean after every range trip.
Hopefully some of this will help.
I have a Mk II 22/45, love to shoot, hate to clean it. Field stripping and cleaning it really isn't that big a deal. As others have said, follow the manual step by step and you won't have any issues. I cleaned mine after every range trip for a while, then realized it was a total waste of time.
I now clean it when it starts to get snotty and has FT-everything issues. I would guess the average cleaning interval is about 1500 rounds. I keep a can of CLP in my range bag and give it a squirt when it starts to gum up, then give in and clean it.
I would think that you could lube the bolt assembly with it locked back. I find an amazing amount of gunk in the recess for the exractor and give that area a lot of attention when it is broken down. You might be able to get in there with a dental pick if it isn't field stripped?
I also find that the face of the breach attracts a huge amount of build up and eventually causes issues with lock up. Maybe try chucking an old bore brush in a drill and give that area a good scrub?
These pistols do not need to be scrubbed white-glove clean after every range trip.
Hopefully some of this will help.
