SA 1911 Loaded Fails to lock open on last round

I am thinking it's the slide stop and have an extra, so swapping one in won't be a big deal.

Just curious as to opinions on my diagnosis or any other opinions the 1911 docs may have.

E: title typo

Sounds like weak mag spring. How many rounds thru gun and mags?

are you riding the slide stop with your thumb. I can do that sometimes.

Not the mag spring. I tested it with another 1911, which ran fine. I did replace the bushing a while back and it's much tighter (hoping for better accuracy), so I am not sure if that plays into it.

Wouldn't the slide stop cause this?

Never

Try another brand of quality magazine. This is almost always mag problem. Either spring or more likely feed lips. If you have a Wilson, try that.

I realize that is where you start, but honestly I feel like I eliminated that as a possible cause. I used several Wilson, McCormick and no-name. They all worked in the one 1911 and all had the same issue in the problematic 1911.

Slide stop: Can this be a cause?

No? Other possible causes?

Wilson that run without an issue, fail to lock open the SA 1911 on the last round. I'm stumped.

It could certainly be the slide stop.

Take it out, look at it. Is the catch worn down? Does it fit tightly?

Ran out of time and energy tonight. I have a spare, so I'll have a look Tuesday.

Thanks

Take the slide off and insert an empty mag. The mag follower may failing to engage the slide stop lug, or it may be failing to move it up.

If it's the latter, some Springfields I've seen have had a pretty stiff plunger spring that puts an awful lot of tension on the slide stop. You can try a replacement spring, or try clipping a couple coils off the plunger spring.

Have you tried to lock open slide by pushing up on slide stop and it locks? If so highly unlikely its a slide stop issue.

Does the pistol have a recoil buffer in it limiting slide travel length? A fully retracted slide should have the slide stop notch go about a 16th inch farther back than needed for slide stop to engage. Look for anything that causes slide travel limitations.

Does it have a heavy recoil spring #lbs greater than 17? If its a new gun leave it locked open for a couple days to compress the recoil spring a bit.

Another thing to try see if the hammer is not compressing fully as the slide retracts. Could be binding the slide enough to limit slide travel to full rear when firing.

Replaced it - not it. Too heavy a recoil spring perhaps.

The slide is VERY sensitive. The slightest pressure from the left hand thumb causes this issue (I am right handed). I ran about 200 rounds last night and noted that when my thumb was 100% off the slide, it'd lock open. The slightest pressure - I mean my thumb just touching the slide and it wouldn't lock open.

NIP Wilson mag, wide variety of ammo - reloads of Power Pistol running at near 1,000 FPS and Ranger-T running at 900 FPS (according to Winchester)

17.5 variable spring . . . I may go back to a 17 and see if that changes anything. Oh yeah - I also have a poly recoil buffer (Wilson) so I may remove that as well.

Now - on to my Kimber CDP Stainless II Custom Shop

I have no idea why, but I have a hell of a time getting the damned sear spring where it belongs. So I strip the thing to the frame and out drops this little piece I had never seen in a 1911 - at least not the SA Loaded.

So here is a photo - the loop on one end in the photo (not mine BTW)



OK - so it sticks up through the frame enough to catch the spring loaded part under the slide (firing pin something or 'nother) and I'll be damned if I know how the thing goes in.

I do know that the way it is in now is not the way it is supposed to go in because the slide feels like it's full of sand. I knew better than to shoot that one last night.

So here I sit, with 2 nice 1911s and nary a one working properly

Anyone know how the Kimber part should be oriented? Thanks in advance.

E: multiple typos

Nope - that looks OK. I am removing the poly recoil buffer, assembling it and locking it open for testing Thursday evening.

Thanks for all the great advice everyone - now on to the Kimber

ETA: Now the SA is back together - I am betting it all on that recoild buffer without a doubt - the slides moves farther - duh!

ETA2: Nah it was the plunger spring - darned near rusted away. I have another.

Edit #3 - Nope - pin kits and not a damned plunger spring to be found anywhere

That's part of the Kimber Swartz safety. The grip safety arm cams it up to deactive the slide plunger.

It fits on the right side of the sear. The "long" side faces the rear of the gun.

Ah - sweet Ken - thanks a million.

Now - about that spring

I ordered 4 from Midway . . .

ETA - I have it in the right place - but perhaps the wrong orientation.

Enough 1911 class for tonight . . . back at it Wednesday.

Thanks again!

Pushing it up works OK, but when I rack the thing on an empty mag, it's about a 50/50 proposition, which it shouldn't be.

So following all the advice here and pulling the plunger spring - the thing is in terrible shape. I ordered 4 from Midway and a Wilson mag well.

I may or may not get to taking the Kimber apart. It's no fun having two nice 1911s that are in a pile of parts

Hopefully the plunger spprings will be here by Saturday and I can test it.

No joy - replaced every spring. Fails to lock open on an empty mag even racking the slide by hand. The only other thing I changed was the bushing, so that's my last attempt.

Any insight beyong what was discussed? I am really out of ideas.

Thanks in advance.

SA Loaded - could a tighter bushing cause this issue?

Thanks in advance!

If you manually lock the slide back and look into the ejection port does the follower of the magazine contact the bottom of the slide stop?

If that tab on the follower is activating the slide stops on other 1911 pistols (I've seen some magazines that needed the follower "tweaked" to get them to press the slide stop upwards) then it sounds like the followers are okay. I'd look inside to see if that follower is contacting the bottom of the slide stop.

If the new bushing is very tight it is remotely possible that the link is binding the slide stop enough to keep it from functioning properly. As you have obviously disassembled it to do so.....are you sure your spring is in correct? These two things are what comes to mind if all else is the same. You changed the bushing and the slidestop stopped working. stick with that. I doubt it has to do with mags that worked before, unless the slide stop has broken.


When you change your oil and your engine knocks........It isn't tire pressure...


CW

It's a medical theory - The Sutton principle they call it.

When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras.

Named after Willie Sutton - bank robber - asked why he robbed banks, he is said to have replied: Because that's where the money is. Later claimed he never said it, but would have, asked the question.

OK men - back at it - and the Kimber stands ready for its turn.

Yup - the damned bushing I thought would help accuracy - .010 thicker . . . . it was the culprit - actually I was . . . on to the Kimber - maybe. Work wore me out

I had this happen on one of my 1911s. The problem was that I had a recoil buffer in place and when combined with the compressed spring length, the slide could not reach the slide stop to engage. Removed the buffer and it is now fine.

I went back to as close to stock as possible - removed the buffer, ordered new 16lb springs, I am getting crazy bent 'cause it's like chasing ghosts.

I will run the two 1911s with factory spring weights, use WWB and see what happens. If it runs OK, then I can go from there; if now - you'll see them on EE cheap

So what's the status now? Locking back, or what? Feeding OK?

Nope. Freakin drove me nuts today. Swapped springs 5X on both this and a Kimber CDP II? I'm lost. Starting over with 2 new 16lb cs springs and a new 100 rounds of wwb. At least with new springs, I can eliminate that as a cause.

Ran ranger, as well as 2 flavors of reloads. One like factory, one at 1000 fps. The only times it locked open was on the hot stuff, once in a while on ranger, but no pattern I could figure.

I have the original Kimber springs I used when it ran, so I'll try that. MSH on the cdp is plastic. Ordered a new one with a mag well.

Any idea what the stock main spring is on these? I am running 25lbs and may drop to 23.

Naturally all the plastic Springfields ran everything I fed them. Same damned ammo

Well I picked up my new SA Lightweight Operator Saturday and had to hit the range, so along came my 2 problem 1911s - Kimber Custon CDP and SA Loaded.

Long story short - 1911Smith - as well as some others had it right with calling the Wilson mags.

Yep - the "cheap" 7 round mags that came with the Operator locked open both of the "problem" 1911s every time.

I brought along 350 rounds of factory 230g ball ammo and along some of my reloads. Neither round was an issue - locked open EVERY SINGLE TIME.

Man was I pissed for two reasons - #1 my own stupidity of blindly excluding the possibility of the mags. They're Wilson right - top shelf . . . and #2 at Wilson for putting out a string of mags with underpowered springs (as noted by 1911Smith). Yeah they have a lifetime warranty and all that, but when I carry a mag I may have to depend on, that warranty can go on my tombstone I guess

Now - onto the "problem" 1911s. Thanks to Ken Mays telling me I could bend the spring, I have a nice trigger on the Kimber. FYI - bending the proper spring towards the frame lightens the trigger, I though it'd be the opposite. People knock them and all and I am not fan of that Schhwartz safety crap - but only because it's a PITA on re-assembly. I changed out the plastic MSH with a Kimber MSH with mag well combo - fit was great. I added a mag well to the SA Loaded 1911 - and the fit sux - grips set way too high and I sanded and grinded to no avail.

Anyway - Kimber function and accuracy was as it always has been on that gun - accurate as anything you could ask for . . . it was my first 1911 and it shoots like a dream. I am going to replace the night sights and cerakote the aluminum frame. I figure I'll use Springer Precision - good work last I used them and their prices were very fair IMHO. $150 for night sights installed (Dawson) $70 to coat the frame. That will finish up the Kimber. Nice for a CCW - light, and I am both fast and accurate with it - the gun is always my first CCW choice.

SA Loaded - shot OK - accurate - just a heavier 1911 than I like. Trigger is good, but I'll Ken Mays the spring to get it lighter. Needs new night sights. Undecided if I am keeping it. If I do, I'll add night sights and the finish is good enough (park - shows some wear, but it's a CCW - not a safe queen).

Brand new SA Lightweight Operator - shot like crap, At 30 feet it's 4-6" low and 2-3" left. Trigger isn't anything to rave about by any measure. I put an M6X on the rail, zeroed it at the same distance and yes, looking at the sights, it's like my left foot - it's just not right! Low and left . . . so I am a bit let down after expecting a lot more from Springfield. Curious thing too - they don't include a 1911 bushing wrench with a 1911. $3 freaking dollars MSRP - what are they thinking?

Before ya'all holler to send it back, I most certainly will. I am expecting a SA GI Micro 1911 to arrive today, so I have to go down and fill out the paperwork. For those not in MD (lucky you), all pistols are "regulated" firearms - and here that means you wait 7 days for them to do a BG check, which is dumb as hell because I picked up 2 pistols Saturday and have plenty of stuff in the safe. You can buy a shotgun and walk right out the door. A Colt Hbar is also cash and carry, a 6920 isn't - makes sense right - right

OK, so I'll get the GI Micro and give it a spin (in 8 days ), so maybe I can save them a nickle on shipping if that has any issues.

I'm not touching any of the new 1911s - let SA do that. After I get them straightened out, night sights all around and MSH without that ILS crap as well as mag wells. The LW Operator has NS - GI Micro, I can't remember - probably not, other need replacing.

So as far as 1911s go: night sights, 3.5 lb triggers, standard MSH and mag wells - anything else you'd add for them considering they'll be CCW pieces?

Oh - and it doesn't belong here, but being part of my Saturday Saga I'll include it - I had a new shooter bring his Taurus 2" .38 special for some basic lessons. I mean this guy knows nothing and I'm no gun guru, but he had to start somehwere. He was pretty good with it at 30 feet, but cocking that teeny hammer (I can't remember the model) took the strength of 2 men and a boy.

I had him shoot my S&W Model 66 and he was like - that's MUCH better. Yeah - I told him all that before he bought the $215 Taurus, but you know people don't listen (me included). Then he wants to modify the Ruger to be more like the Smith . . . and I told him why that's throwing good money after bad . . . . I'm sure he listened I wonder why I bother sometimes.

Lastly I bought a Ruger LCR for my MIL to use . . .what can I say, I don't like 2" barrels and can't hit crap with them. It' a bad breath distance gun and I don't want a threat to ever get that close. She likes Crimson Trace Laser grips, which I couldn't find locally. She can spring for that and IMHO it's pretty much needed with that thing.

So I am pulling every 1911 mag I own, putting 2 rounds in them and testing each twice, Wilson will get a fair sized package in the mail

1911 gurus - am I on the right track with the pistol mods, keeping in mind, they are all to be used as CCW items.?

I also bought a Trek can for my ARs and the guy gave me a break, charging about 10% less than MSRP.

Edit: Typos

You know what an Aresenal of phone numbers can do for you.

Sorry, I don't have Kimber's number. Try 1411 on your cell for information. Then call Kimber, ask how they equipped with springs. Both recoil and main.

Just a suggestion.

Already did 16 recoil, 21 mainspring


Midway forgot 1 item. My mainspring package, now out of stock

MidwayBackOrderUSA. Try Brownells.

I need a break from these things - they seem to take so much effort, they are sucking the will to live from my body

I have a list - night sights, cerakote, magwell . . . . holsters!

Signed for the GI Micro - beautiful condition, scuffs on the barrel at the hood like most - frame/slide is immaculate. CT Laser grip adds a lot to that small frame as the sights suck.

I'll process some 40/45/.223 and get a small break from 1911 hell for a bit. I need some .45 ammo anyway.

As the Govinator says: I'll be Bahhhk

I am having a similar problem with a new Sig 1911. Found that the 2 factory mags work fine but my other popular makes do not. They are not catching the tab on the slide stop with the mag follower, just a tad short so the follower slips by. Will try the stop from my Kimber just to see if it makes a differance.

Call Sig, they'll make it right. One of 4 factory mags wouldn't lock the slide on my TacOps back. Called yesterday, mag in the mail.

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